I've been enjoying the Lowdina renaisassance lately, working through a full spectrum of easy and moderate routes. I'm curios about Expiry (13) on Lumbar cruncher buttress. In the topo photo which can't be very old at all there is a large chockstone visible in the offwidth. This was missing when we climbed the route the result being its seems pretty arduous for the grade.

Did somebody make the world a safer place or did it fall out by its own volition?

  • No labels

5 Comments

  1. Christoph Speer

    I wouldn't be surprised if this was cleaned-out when 'Lithium Low Down' was done.  I think I took the photo there just prior to that being done on the FA.  Another fantastic sandbag to add to the growing list out there..

    1. dave james AUTHOR

      Thanks chris, that sounds like the most likely explanation. sorry i thought i had responded earlier but clearly a false memory.

      i'm glad the worlds a safer place despite the odd sandbag....

  2. Phil Robinson

    Expiry! I thought it rang a bell. Probably an old-fashioned sandbag, gr.13, Bush and Robinson 1975, 47 years ago. I wonder how many have done it since then, one or two? I guess it is harder now with the chockstone gone but safer, with cams rather than hexs. too.

    1. dave james AUTHOR

      its a good little climb Phil.a massive sandbag at 13 post chockstone.! i'm pretty sure its on the topside of 18 now. my memory is failing me but possibly kept safe by a bolt on adjacent route. the crack might be a bit big for a no. 6. 

      1. Phil Robinson

        Perhaps you can put grade 18 in the guide now Dave so no one will come to grief. Grades were somewhat vague in those days (e.g. Moonraker was grade 14, now 16). So gr.13 for Expiry may have been 15 or so (with the chockstone).