Page History

<guide>
  <header id="81" name="The Cliffs of Insanity" walk="" sun="" rock="" acknowledgement="" intro="The Cliffs of Insanity are on the western slopes of Stepped Hills. The excellent quality conglomerate has potential for some serious adventure climbing on its 230m150-250m high faces. Protection is reasonable generally very good, and thelines rocktend isto mostlybe bombproof.easier Therethan isappearances spacewould forsuggest hundredsdue ofto routespositive onholds the- largethis wallsallows andfor theoverhanging manyfeatures smallerto cragsbe thattackled surroundground them,up howeveron accessingtrad anygear. ofThere theseis featuresspace isfor somewhathundreds problematic.of routes on the " history="" access="The cliffs can be accessed by driving to the end of Clear Hill Road and taking the eastern spur (4WD) to reach the edge of Lake Gordon. From here it&apos;s only 1km of kayaking/boating to the eastern shore under the cliffs, where a base camp can be set up. However the approach to the base of walls is marred by some classic South-West scrub, making the big routes a daunting proposition as a day trip. It may even be best to access the summit first. The lowest cliffs are the most accessible, and can be reached in and hour or two from the shore. Despite their small appearance (compared to the walls above) they offer plenty of potential for decent routes.&lt;br/&gt;The crag is within the Franklin-Gordon Wild Rivers National Park and the Tasmanian World Heritage Area, so please respect the principals of minimal impact bush walking (and climbing)." camping="" autonumber="true"/>
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      <climb>84</climb>
      <climb>85</climb>
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  <climb id="83" stars="*" extra="" number="1." name="Macondo" length="110m" grade="14" fa="R. Hardy and B. Armstrong, Nov 2017">Climbs the lowest and left most block of rock. Best approached via the button-grass lead on the northern shoulder, or the scree path that runs below it. &lt;br/&gt;1. 50m 14. In the middle of the face about one third of the way up, is a large, prominent roof. The route starts directly below this. Climb over the initial steepness using the jugs slightly to the left, and continue up excellent rock to pass the roof via a notch on it's left edge. Belay above this next to a tree. &lt;br/&gt;2. 30m 13. Continue directly up the nice slabs to another roof. Traverse 5m left and around a corner to a large ledge. &lt;br/&gt;3. 30m 10. Climb the corner and slabs to the top. An abseil may be necessary to reach the descent gullies on either side.</climb>
  <climb id="84" stars="**" extra="" number="2." name="Dumb Luck" length="80m" grade="19" fa="R. Hardy and B. Armstrong, Nov 2017">Climbs the cliff immediately to the right of Macondo. Awesome adventure climbing with a wild roof move. &lt;br/&gt;1. 30m 14. The right-hand half of the block has a wide roof about 25m above the ground. Locate the big flake system just below the right-hand end of it, and start climbing 7m to the left of this. Up jugs to a small ledge, continue directly up for several meters, traverse left on obvious holds for 5m then climb up a crack to belay at a ledge just below the left-hand end of the roof. &lt;br/&gt;2. 30m 19. Traverse a few meters right and haul over the roof. Continue up the sustained slabs to a ledge. &lt;br/&gt;3. 30m 12. Directly up the short wall then climb the spiky tower to the right of the scrubby gully. Descend by abseil off to the left.</climb>
  <climb id="85" stars="**" extra="" number="3." name="Inconceivable" length="100m" grade="17" fa="H Jackson, M Jackson, S Joseph 31/12/2006">&lt;br/&gt;Remarkable exposure at the grade.&lt;br/&gt;&lt;br/&gt;Access: walk to the top of stepped hills via button grass lead north of the Cliffs of Insanity. Scramble down gully between the major buttresses for ~ 100m. A ledge system leads to the arete (start of the climb).&lt;br/&gt;&lt;br/&gt; 50m 17. (climber photographed above is on this pitch). ascend steep face just left of arete, passing many small roof features. belay beneath large roof.&lt;br/&gt; 50m 17. Tackle easiest weakness through roof above belay (curx), then weave right to avoid next large roof, then climb back left up blank looking face and left arete above, with reasonable protection (looks improbable).&lt;br/&gt;&lt;br/&gt;&lt;br/&gt;&lt;br/&gt;</climb>
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      <climb>85<large walls and the many smaller crags that surround them.  Access has been via boat/kayak and now walking to thew base is less  problematic since 2019 fires.    " history="" access="The cliffs can be accessed by driving 3 hours from Hobart to the end of Clear Hill Road (improved with works in 2021) and taking the eastern spur (now 2WD) to reach the Boyes Basin &apos;boat ramp&apos; on Lake Gordon. From here it&apos;s only 1km of kayaking/boating to the eastern shoreline under the cliffs, where a base camp can be set up. Theoretically one could access these cliffs without a boat by walking the southern shoreline of Boyes basin until it is possible to rock hop across the Gordan river near the cliff base (estimated 3-4hours walk). Until 2019 the approach to the base of walls was rather challenging due to classic South-West scrub, but in the aftermath of 2019 fires, the access spurs to the main buttresses are now clear. The route of MP was climbed as 30 hour &apos;round trip from Hobart in 2022. Dead slicks still hind progress in certain areas, such as the main gullies. In 2022 the access to Dump Luck was 20 mins walk, and Mapali Patrula was a buit over an hour. &lt;br/&gt;&lt;br/&gt;The cliff is within the Franklin-Gordon Wild Rivers National Park and the Tasmanian World Heritage Area, so please respect the principals of minimal impact bush walking and climbing defined for this region." camping="Shoreline beaches below the cliff line." autonumber="true"/>
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    <legend>
      <climb>83</climb>
      <climb>84</climb>
      <climb>88</climb>
      <climb>85</climb>
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  <climb id="83" stars="*" extra="" number="1." name="Macondo" length="110m" grade="14" fa="R. Hardy and B. Armstrong, Nov 2017">Climbs the lowest and left most block of rock. Best approached via the button-grass lead on the northern shoulder, or the scree path that runs below it. &lt;br/&gt;1. 50m 14. In the middle of the face about one third of the way up, is a large, prominent roof. The route starts directly below this. Climb over the initial steepness using the jugs slightly to the left, and continue up excellent rock to pass the roof via a notch on it's left edge. Belay above this next to a tree. &lt;br/&gt;2. 30m 13. Continue directly up the nice slabs to another roof. Traverse 5m left and around a corner to a large ledge. &lt;br/&gt;3. 30m 10. Climb the corner and slabs to the top. An abseil may be necessary to reach the descent gullies on either side.</climb>
  <climb id="84" stars="**" extra="" number="2." name="Dumb Luck" length="80m" grade="19" fa="R. Hardy and B. Armstrong, Nov 2017">Climbs the cliff immediately to the right of Macondo. Awesome adventure climbing with a wild roof move. &lt;br/&gt;1. 30m 14. The right-hand half of the block has a wide roof about 25m above the ground. Locate the big flake system just below the right-hand end of it, and start climbing 7m to the left of this. Up jugs to a small ledge, continue directly up for several meters, traverse left on obvious holds for 5m then climb up a crack to belay at a ledge just below the left-hand end of the roof. &lt;br/&gt;2. 30m 19. Traverse a few meters right and haul over the roof. Continue up the sustained slabs to a ledge. &lt;br/&gt;3. 30m 12. Directly up the short wall then climb the spiky tower to the right of the scrubby gully. Descend by abseil off to the left.</climb>
  <climb id="88" stars="**" extra="" number="3." name="Mapali Patrula" length="170m" grade="21" fa="H Jackson and M Spicer (alt) Feb 2022">Takes the proudest line on the central buttress. Well protected, good rock, with each pitch tackling overhanging features then ending on comfortable ledges.&lt;br/&gt;Gear: standard trad rack with doubles to #2, a generous variety of smaller cams, and singles of #3 and #4. &lt;br/&gt;Access. From the lake edge walk to the base of small buttress 50m R of Dumb Luck. Sidle round to the right of this mattress into the hidden gully and ascend this until it is possible to scramble right to the base of the climb. Start: the climb starts on the main cliff face immediately adjacent the 10m high broad pillar that sits below the right end of the orange overhangs. A cairn is built on the starting ledge.&lt;br/&gt;&lt;br/&gt;1. 30m 21. A very good pitch of climbing. Climb steep L facing corner for 10m until it ends at 1m rooflet, traverse left for 3m under rooflet then crank high to the next vertical crack (crux), then onwards un overhanging R facing corner which soon opens into a chimney for 5m to 2x3m boulder strewn ledge. This pitch overhangs ~ 5m.&lt;br/&gt;2. 15m 18. Up and left off ledge to a steep stance on small ledge 2m above belay, then left again off this (crux) to steep juggy wall above. large ledge belay.&lt;br/&gt;Reposition belay 4m left below arete. &lt;br/&gt;3. 35m 18. Climb R leading diagonal crack from arete (crux) onto R wall, then through small overlap and easier ground above. Pass ledge then ascend another crack on the arete until belay under the large overhang. &lt;br/&gt;Reposition belay 5m right to below right facing corner system. &lt;br/&gt;4. 15m 19. Climb R facing corner (initial 4m vegetated, so passed on R wall), steeping R when it steepens, then step L to finish on small ledge. &lt;br/&gt;5. 35m 17. Continue up steep R facing corner until it ends after 15m, then up cracks above until the major horizontal weakness is reached and a steep, blank wall blocks upwards progress. Traverse 5m left to belay under beautiful L facing corner, about 5m R of arete that drops into space). &lt;br/&gt;6. 30m 19. This pitch overhangs ~ 8m! Climb L facing corner until it ends at 8m, then traverse L to the twin crack lines on the arete. Take the L crack - steep and juggy, until the 3m roof crack can be half tackled and half avoided by using steep sloping ledges on left (an unusual crux sequence that is difficult to grade; extremely exposed but very well protected). Continue up easy weakness above to belay on chockstone. &lt;br/&gt;7. 15m. Easy scramble to top. &lt;br/&gt;&lt;br/&gt;&lt;br/&gt;</climb>
  <climb id="85" stars="**" extra="" number="4." name="Inconceivable" length="90m" grade="17" fa="H Jackson, M Jackson, S Joseph 31/12/2006">&lt;br/&gt;Remarkable exposure at the grade.&lt;br/&gt;&lt;br/&gt;Access: walk to the top of stepped hills via ridge then left into gully system just north of the Cliffs of Insanity. Scramble down gully between the major buttresses for ~ 100m. A ledge system leads to the arete (start of the climb).&lt;br/&gt;&lt;br/&gt; 45m 17. Ascend steep face just left of arete, passing many small roof features. belay beneath large roof.&lt;br/&gt; 45m 17. Tackle easiest weakness through roof above belay (curx), then weave right to avoid next large roof, then climb back left up blank looking face and left arete above, with reasonable protection (looks improbable).&lt;br/&gt;&lt;br/&gt;&lt;br/&gt;&lt;br/&gt;</climb>
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    <legend>
      <climb>85</climb>
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</guide>