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<guide> <header id="81" name="The Cliffs of Insanity" walk="" sun="" rock="" acknowledgement="" intro="The Cliffs of Insanity are on the western slopes of Stepped Hills. The excellent quality conglomerate has potential for some serious adventure climbing on its 150-250m300m high faces. Protection(maximum isunbroken generallyheight very good, and lines tend to be easier than appearances would suggest due to positive holds - this allows for overhanging features to be tackled ground up on trad gear. There is space for hundreds of routes on the large walls and the many smaller crags that surround them. Access has been via boat/kayak and now walking to thew base is less problematic since 2019 fires. " history="" access="The cliffs can be accessed by driving 3 hours from Hobart to the end of Clear Hill Road (improved with works in 2021) and taking the eastern spur (now 2WD in 2022) to reach the Boyes Basin 'boat ramp' on Lake Gordon. From here it's only 1km of kayaking/boating to the eastern shoreline under the cliffs, where a base camp can be set up. Launching a run-about from this 'ramp' can be tricky due to lake mud if the level is lower than than '26m from full (hydro tas site) - fallen wooden can usually be used to span the mud if levels are low. Carrying chainsaw is advised on some fishing web-sites - as trees can fall across this road.<br/><br/>Theoretically one could access these cliffs without a boat by walking the southern shoreline of Boyes basin until it is possible to rock hop across the Gordan river near the cliff base (estimated 3-4hours walk). Until 2019 the approach to the base of walls was rather challenging due to classic South-West scrub, but in the aftermath of 2019 fires, the access spurs to the main buttresses are now clear. The route of MP was climbed as 30 hour 'round trip' from Hobart in 2022. Dead slicks still slow progress in certain areas, such as the main gullies. In 2022 the access to Dump Luck was 20 mins walk, and Mapali Patrula was about an hour. <br/><br/>The cliff is within the Franklin-Gordon Wild Rivers National Park and the Tasmanian World Heritage Area, so please respect the principals of minimal impact bush walking and climbing defined for this region (see CCT code of conduct)170m). The rock is classified as Reed's conglomerate (the same as Adamsfield), but the composition of the conglomerate makes for quite a different climbing experience with far fewer cobbles, larger sections of cobble free quartz-sandstone matrix (which is very hard and smooth), and almost no sharp holds. The cracks often feature no pebbles on their edges, so the natural protection is generally very good (where-as at Adamsfield it is bad, or at best psychologically challenging placing peices behind cobbles). Much of the climbing is also notably different the Tyndalls experience, (where the rock has a massive density of pebbles). <br/><br/>Lines here tend to be easier than appearances would suggest due to positive holds - this allows for overhanging features to be tackled ground up on trad gear. There is space for hundreds of routes on the large walls and the many smaller crags that surround them. Access has been via boat/kayak and walking to thew base is relatively easy since 2019 fires. <br/><br/>Ethics<br/>The cliff is within the Franklin-Gordon Wild Rivers National Park and the Tasmanian World Heritage Area, so please respect the principals of minimal impact bush walking and climbing defined for this region (see CCT code of conduct)." history="" access="The cliffs can be accessed by driving 3 hours from Hobart to the end of Clear Hill Road (improved with works in 2021) and taking the eastern spur (now 2WD in 2022) to reach the Boyes Basin 'boat ramp' on Lake Gordon. There are two such informal 'boat ramps' on the southern shore of Boyes Basin, and the eastern most one tends to be better (and is closer to the cliffs). Carrying chainsaw is advised on some fishing web-sites - as trees can fall across this remote road.<br/><br/>By Boat.<br/>From the eastern ramp it is only 2km by watercraft to the Nor-eastern shoreline under the cliffs, where a base camp can be set up (typically near the prominent boulder). <br/><br/>Note that launching a heavy speed boat can be tricky due to shoreline mud if the lake level is lower than 26m from full on the western ramp (hydro tas site), or lower than 23m from full on the eastern ramp (larger numbers means further from full - ie a lower level). Fallen wooden can be used to span the mud if levels are low. <br/><br/>By foot:<br/>Theoretically one could access these cliffs without a boat by walking the shoreline of Boyes basin from thew eastern boat ramp then rock hop across the Gordan river near the cliff base (estimated 2 hours walk). An old road exists back from the southern shoreline but it is blocked to traffic, but may be easier to bike-ride/walk than the shoreline. <br/><br/>From Base-camp to cliff.<br/>Until 2019 the approach to the cliff-base was rather challenging due to thick scrub; since the 2019 fires the access spurs to the main buttresses are now clear. The route of MP was climbed as 30 hour 'round trip' from Hobart in 2022. Dead slicks still slow walkers progress in certain areas, such as the main gullies. In 2022 the access to Dump Luck was 20 mins walk, and Mapali Patrula was about an hour. <br/>" camping="Shoreline beaches below the cliff line line. The swimming here is pleasantly warm in the summer months." autonumber="true"/> <text id="91" class="heading3">Crag Steward</text> <text id="92" class="text">Rock climbers please contact the Cliff Steward (southwest@climbersclubtas.org.au) if you have any queries or concerns regarding social or environmental impacts of rock climbing at this crag. Do not email regarding general travel, seasonal advice, or lost property - this is not the Steward’s role. If you have important safety information to communicate (e.g. risks due to recent and large rock falls) please also consider updates on thesarvo forum, facebook group and/or online guidebooks as appropriate. Please copy in cct@climbersclubtas.org.au if you feel you have a high level concern which may imminently impact the crag or climbing community.<br/><br/>Non-climbers, other users, land managers: please also contact cct@climbersclubtas.org.au if you have important climbing related queries at this location.</text> important climbing related queries at this location.</text> <text id="95" class="heading3">Access Topo</text> <image id="93" src="COI access topo.png" height="524" width="800"/> <text id="96" class="heading3">Cliff topo</text> <image id="82" src="P1000949.JPG" height="600" width="800" legend="true"> <drawing> <path id="46986" points="65.0,439.0, 59.0,428.0, 65.0,394.0, 63.0,354.0, 49.0,350.0, 50.0,330.0," d="M65.0,439.0C62.6,434.6 59.0,433.0 59.0,428.0C59.0,423.0 64.3,407.8 65.0,394.0C65.7,380.2 65.0,359.5 63.0,354.0C61.0,348.5 51.8,355.1 49.0,350.0C46.2,344.9 49.6,338.0 50.0,330.0" linkedTo="83"/> <path id="6326" points="229.0,452.0, 227.0,439.0, 220.0,436.0, 220.0,430.0, 225.0,429.0, 224.0,400.0, 224.0,394.0, 230.0,374.0," d="M229.0,452.0C228.2,446.8 227.2,441.0 227.0,439.0C226.8,437.0 221.5,437.9 220.0,436.0C218.5,434.1 218.8,431.7 220.0,430.0C221.2,428.3 225.2,431.0 225.0,429.0C224.8,427.0 224.1,402.4 224.0,400.0C223.9,397.6 223.5,396.3 224.0,394.0C224.5,391.7 227.6,382.0 230.0,374.0" linkedTo="84" lineStyle="solid"/> <path id="32792" points="355.0,214.0, 354.0,208.0, 351.0,193.0, 356.0,173.0, 364.0,157.0," d="M355.0,214.0C354.6,211.6 354.5,210.4 354.0,208.0C353.5,205.6 350.7,199.1 351.0,193.0C351.3,186.9 353.6,179.7 356.0,173.0C358.4,166.3 360.8,163.4 364.0,157.0" linkedTo="85"/> <path id="77114" points="390.0,596.0, 333.0,463.0, 370.0,442.0, 172.0,306.0, 204.0,280.0, 228.0,263.0, 236.0,249.0," d="M390.0,596.0C367.2,542.8 335.2,479.9 333.0,463.0C330.8,446.1 382.2,453.9 370.0,442.0C357.8,430.1 183.8,317.5 172.0,306.0C160.2,294.5 194.7,287.2 204.0,280.0C213.3,272.8 223.4,267.5 228.0,263.0C232.6,258.5 235.4,250.0 236.0,249.0" labelText="Access to MP" lineStyle="dotted"/> <path id="19283" points="236.0,248.0, 239.0,248.0, 241.0,237.0, 238.0,229.0, 238.0,217.0, 229.0,209.0, 228.0,195.0, 227.0,184.0, 237.0,185.0, 235.0,168.0, 236.0,155.0, 233.0,147.0, 227.0,145.0, 224.0,126.0, 223.0,103.0," d="M236.0,248.0C236.6,247.0 238.4,249.0 239.0,248.0C239.6,247.0 241.2,240.4 241.0,237.0C240.8,233.6 239.0,232.3 238.0,229.0C237.0,225.7 239.0,220.3 238.0,217.0C237.0,213.7 230.1,213.3 229.0,209.0C227.9,204.7 229.1,199.3 228.0,195.0C226.9,190.7 225.9,187.9 227.0,184.0C228.1,180.1 235.9,188.9 237.0,185.0C238.1,181.1 233.9,171.9 235.0,168.0C236.1,164.1 236.3,158.4 236.0,155.0C235.7,151.6 234.7,148.9 233.0,147.0C231.3,145.1 228.0,147.3 227.0,145.0C226.0,142.7 224.7,133.7 224.0,126.0C223.3,118.3 223.4,112.2 223.0,103.0" linkedTo="88"/> </drawing> <legend> <climb>83</climb> <climb>84</climb> <climb>88</climb> <climb>85</climb> </legend> </image> <climb id="83" stars="*" extra="" number="1." name="Macondo" length="110m" grade="14" fa="R. Hardy and B. Armstrong, Nov 2017">Climbs the lowest and left most block of rock. Best approached via the button-grass lead on the northern shoulder, or the scree path that runs below it. <br/>1. 50m 14. In the middle of the face about one third of the way up, is a large, prominent roof. The route starts directly below this. Climb over the initial steepness using the jugs slightly to the left, and continue up excellent rock to pass the roof via a notch on it's left edge. Belay above this next to a tree. <br/>2. 30m 13. Continue directly up the nice slabs to another roof. Traverse 5m left and around a corner to a large ledge. <br/>3. 30m 10. Climb the corner and slabs to the top. An abseil may be necessary to reach the descent gullies on either side.</climb> <climb id="84" stars="**" extra="" number="2." name="Dumb Luck" length="80m" grade="19" fa="R. Hardy and B. Armstrong, Nov 2017">Climbs the cliff immediately to the right of Macondo. Awesome adventure climbing with a wild roof move. <br/>1. 30m 14. The right-hand half of the block has a wide roof about 25m above the ground. Locate the big flake system just below the right-hand end of it, and start climbing 7m to the left of this. Up jugs to a small ledge, continue directly up for several meters, traverse left on obvious holds for 5m then climb up a crack to belay at a ledge just below the left-hand end of the roof. <br/>2. 30m 19. Traverse a few meters right and haul over the roof. Continue up the sustained slabs to a ledge. <br/>3. 30m 12. Directly up the short wall then climb the spiky tower to the right of the scrubby gully. Descend by abseil off to the left.</climb> <climb id="88" stars="**" extra="" number="3." name="Mapali Patrula" length="170m" grade="21" fa="H Jackson and M Spicer (alt) Feb 2022">Takes the proudest line on the central buttress - close to ***, but the middle pitches are good rather than excellent. Well protected, good rock, with each pitch tackling overhanging features then ending on comfortable ledges.<br/>Gear: standard trad rack with doubles to #2, a generous variety of smaller cams, and singles of #3 and #4. <br/>Access. From the lake edge walk to the base of small buttress 50m R of Dumb Luck. Sidle round to the right of this mattress into the hidden gully and ascend this until it is possible to scramble right to the base of the climb. Start: the climb starts on the main cliff face immediately adjacent the 10m high broad pillar that sits below the right end of the orange overhangs. A cairn is built on the starting ledge.<br/><br/>1. 30m 21. A very good pitch of steep climbing with great gear. Climb steep L facing corner for 10m until it ends at 1m rooflet, traverse left for 3m under rooflet then crank high to the next vertical crack (crux), then onwards unup overhanging R facing corner which soon opens into a chimney for 5m to then ends on a 2x3m boulder strewn ledge. This pitch overhangs ~ 5m.<br/>2. 15m 18. Up and left off ledge to a steep stance on small ledge 2m above belay, then left again off this (crux) to steep juggy wall above. large ledge belay.<br/>Reposition belay 4m left below arete. <br/>3. 35m 18. Climb R leading diagonal crack from arete (crux) onto R wall, then through small overlap and easier ground above. Pass ledge then ascend another crack on the arete until belay under the large overhang. <br/>Reposition belay 5m right to below right facing corner system. <br/>4. 15m 19. Climb R facing corner (initial 4m vegetated, so passed on R wall), steeping R when it steepens, then step L to finish on small ledge. <br/>5. 35m 17. Continue up steep R facing corner until it ends after 15m, then up cracks above until the major horizontal weakness is reached and a steep, blank wall blocks upwards progress. Traverse 5m left to belay under beautiful L facing corner, about 5m R of arete that drops into space). <br/>6. 30m 19. Intimidating! This pitch overhangs ~ 8m!. Climb L facing corner until it ends at 8m, then traverse L to the twin crack lines on the arete. Take the L crack - steep and juggy, until the 3m roof crack can be half tackled and half avoided by using steep sloping ledges on left (an unusual crux sequence that is difficult to grade; extremely exposed but very well protected). Continue up easy weakness above to belay on chockstone. <br/>7. 15m. Easy scramble to top. <br/><br/><br/></climb> <climb id="85" stars="**" extra="" number="4." name="Inconceivable" length="90m" grade="17" fa="H Jackson, M Jackson, S Joseph 31/12/2006"><br/>Remarkable exposure at the grade. <br/><br/>Access: walk to the top of stepped hills via ridge then left into gully system just north of the Cliffs of Insanity. Scramble down gully between the major buttresses for ~ 100m. A ledge system leads to the arete (start of the climb).<br/><br/> 45m 17. Ascend steep face just left of arete, passing many small roof features. belay beneath large roof.<br/> 45m 17. Tackle easiest weakness through roof above belay (curx), then weave right to avoid next large roof, then climb back left up blank looking face and left arete above, with reasonable protection (looks improbable).<br/><br/><br/><br/></climb> <image id="87" src="inconceivable topo 3.jpg" height="379" legend="true"> <legend> <climb>85</climb> </legend> </image> <image id="90" src="MP 2.jpg" height="1022" legendTitle="MP topo"> <drawing> <rect id="87618" x="284" y="25" width="52" height="22" style="black_text_on_solid_white" text="MP topo"/> <path id="7948" points="311.0,533.0, 314.0,528.0, 314.0,529.0, 313.0,530.0, 319.0,516.0, 324.0,499.0, 319.0,480.0, 319.0,459.0, 303.0,445.0, 316.0,430.0, 320.0,412.0, 311.0,410.0, 316.0,392.0, 332.0,397.0, 342.0,369.0, 349.0,346.0, 351.0,323.0, 339.0,318.0, 343.0,299.0, 332.0,295.0, 333.0,273.0, 336.0,239.0," d="M311.0,533.0C311.8,530.8 313.8,528.4 314.0,528.0C314.2,527.6 313.8,529.4 314.0,529.0C314.2,528.6 312.8,530.4 313.0,530.0C313.2,529.6 318.2,518.2 319.0,516.0C319.8,513.8 324.0,506.1 324.0,499.0C324.0,491.9 320.0,487.8 319.0,480.0C318.0,472.2 322.5,466.6 319.0,459.0C315.5,451.4 303.8,452.9 303.0,445.0C302.2,437.1 312.6,436.6 316.0,430.0C319.4,423.4 319.0,415.6 320.0,412.0C321.0,408.4 310.0,413.6 311.0,410.0C312.0,406.4 310.3,395.5 316.0,392.0C321.7,388.5 331.0,400.6 332.0,397.0C333.0,393.4 339.0,378.1 342.0,369.0C345.0,359.9 347.2,355.1 349.0,346.0C350.8,336.9 352.7,327.9 351.0,323.0C349.3,318.1 340.7,322.9 339.0,318.0C337.3,313.1 344.5,303.4 343.0,299.0C341.5,294.6 333.5,299.4 332.0,295.0C330.5,290.6 332.4,281.8 333.0,273.0C333.6,264.2 334.8,252.6 336.0,239.0" lineStyle="dotted" linkedTo="88"/> <rect id="13593" x="353" y="517" width="346" height="22" style="black_text_on_solid_white" text="the first 15m of the climb is obscured in this image by this pillar" arrowDirection="west"/> </drawing> <legend> <climb>88</climb> </legend> </image> </guide> |
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