- CCT Public Page
- [CCT Members Area]
Page History
| Guide |
|---|
<guide> <header autonumber="false" camping="" access="This guide is included on Thesarvo at the moment as a historical record until the access issues are sorted out. If you do visit it, then please try to negotiate with the owners of the land and access paddocks for future use by members of the CCT and wider climbing community. A reminder that these cliffs probably haven’t been climbed on for years and would need extensive re-cleaning... and that the bolts etc mentioned are now 35 years old.<br/>Turn off the Midland Highway at Melton Mowbray and then take the Lower Marshes Road to the right. When it crosses the Jordan River for the second time, you will see a small white weatherboard house (green roof) on the right. This is owned by the Porters from whom permission must be gained for access.<br/>Drive up and around the pines on the right, and then head back left up the hill across the paddock to the top left-hand corner. Park here.<br/>Cross the fence, past a tin shed and walk up hill to the ridge running south east. Continue up the ridge until a small col arrives on the left and a section of crag can just be seen in profile. Head for the crags which remain out of view around the corner (15 – 20 mins).<br/>The cliffs are not on the Porter’s property and although the owner has given permission to Noel Ward to investigate the cliffs it is understood that his land will not be damaged. " history="Discovered and conceived as a possibility by Noel Ward in 1981. He made one reconnaissance and then returned with Bob De Cesare to clean several lines. The Jackson family (Peter, Marcel and Hamish) went on the next trip when several lines were done, including Ward’s lead of the best line on the cliff, Shadowfax.<br/>Doug Fife visited the cliff in summer, repeated Shadowfax and added two routes, one solo. The general impression faded.<br/>Then in the depth of winter which must be the worst time to climb there, Ward and Jackson began again. The definitive “secret cliff” syndrome became apparent, and over a few months a dozen or so routes were done Extensive cleaning was necessary, sometimes involving a whole trip. Fife joined forces repeating several routes solo and adding the poorly protected “Winged”.<br/>The use of bolts prompted speculation about protection. Soloing some of the routes obviated the point, and so a new grade was introduce, the “Seriousness Grade”. (Ed note: The Ewbank system of grading allows for comment on “Seriousness” in the route description but the Jackson version is included here for historical relevance).<br/>The Seriousness Grade<br/>S1 – No seriousness. Always potential for good protection<br/>S2 – Reasonable protection. Wide range of runouts with good runners. Most climbs are in this category<br/>S3 - Poor protection. Runners likely to fail, impact likely. Very long runouts.<br/>S4 – Extremely seriousness. All protection doubtful. Ground falls or similar probable<br/>S5 – No protection of any sort (solo ascents)" intro="A small south facing row of sandstone buttresses situated north of Apsley near the Jordan River valley. The setting is picturesque above a bracken covered hillside and topped by open forest with sculptural boulders behind. The routes vary in length from 10 to 30m.<br/>All the rock is soft, but not always friable. Many small holds are doubtful. The southerly aspect has produced damp conditions and very lichenous faces requiring lengthy preparation for new routes.<br/>Natural protection can be a problem except in wider cracks. Small crevices afford RP placements but their ultimate holding power must be assessed against the softness of the rock. Bolts have been used for protection on some climbs.<br/>It is hoped that bolting is not abused in the future. Even more so, it is hoped that the cliffs are valued as the enjoyable environment they were when discovered. Their charm and that of their surroundings add up to a local character and it would be a pity if the place became reduced to a careless collection of rock problems.<br/>Smashing of vegetation, boulder rolling and other “fun” activities could destroy a special place." acknowledgement="Based on the original guide by Peter Jackson, published for the CCT in 1982. " rock="" sun="" walk="" id="1" name="Apsley Edge"/> <image id="2" width="800" height="499" src="Apsley cover edited.jpg"/> <image id="3" width="800" height="535" src="Apsley 1 edited.jpg"/> <image id="4" width="800" height="1022" src="Apsely 2 edited.jpg"/> <climb id="5" name="Pergalen" fa="P. Jackson, N. Ward, July 1982." grade="20" length="" number="" extra="S1" stars="">“For bruises, sprains, bumps, contusions, muscle and ligament injuries”. Entering the bottomless off-width is the crux.<br/><br/></climb> <climb id="6" name="Dormir" fa="P. Jackson (solo), Nov 1981." grade="5" length="" number="" extra="S2" stars="">A smelly chimney with a narrow strenuous exit once blocked by a chockstone which came out during the first ascent!</climb> <climb id="7" name="Stevenson" fa="P. Jackson (unseconded), Nov 1981." grade="17" length="" number="" extra="S2" stars="">The short off-width start is harder than it looks.<br/></climb> <climb id="20" name="High Fi" fa="N. Ward, P. Jackson, April 1982." grade="19" length="" number="" extra="S2" stars="">The wall 1m R of Stevenson gives thin climbing to a bolt. Finish direct with a hard long reach to start. Short but good.</climb> <climb id="8" name="Vienna" fa="P. Jackson, N. Ward, April 1982." grade="15" length="" number="" extra="S2" stars="">Starts low and trends up to R near the arête. A bolt protects the crux. Continue up R of a horizontal slot to a second bolt and finish direct on doubtful holds. Very photogenic.<br/><br/></climb> <climb id="9" name="Brûlée" fa="P. Jackson, N. Ward, July 1981." grade="19" length="" number="" extra="S2" stars="*">Steeper and more sustained. The start is gymnastic through the small roof. Continue straight up to a bolt runner. The crux follows for about the next 2m – steep, rounded holds. Recommended.<br/></climb> <climb id="10" name="Moxon" fa="P. Jackson, N. Ward, R. De Cesar, Nov 1981." grade="11" length="" number="" extra="S1" stars="">Straightforward corner to top.<br/></climb> <climb id="11" name="Aquajet" fa="P. Jackson, N. Ward, D. Fife, June 1982." grade="18" length="" number="" extra="S2" stars="">An elegant face which took an enormous amount of cleaning to reveal the possibilities. Despite friable holds, the climbing is very nice. 2 bolts with crux between them.<br/></climb> <climb id="12" name="The Wizard of Speed and Time" fa="R. De Cesar, P. Jackson, N. Ward, Nov 1981." grade="14" length="" number="" extra="S2" stars="">The first route done and a good varied climb.</climb> <climb id="13" name="Cinnamon Sedge" fa="N. Ward, P. Jackson, July 1982." grade="15" length="" number="" extra="S2" stars="">Short wall to rounded ledge. Through roof following obvious thin crack line with rounded holds forcing a crux near the top. Finish up Grainger.<br/><br/></climb> <climb id="14" name="Grainger" fa="D. Fife, P. Jackson, Jan 1982." grade="15" length="" number="" extra="S2" stars="">The corner to the scoop. Poor arrangement of protection here could make the route S3. Traverse L, awkward and tricky, and finish straight up on rounded holds.<br/><br/></climb> <climb id="15" name="Winged" fa="D. Fife, P. Jackson, N. Ward, 1982." grade="16" length="" number="" extra="S3" stars="">The crux is at half height where a move up slightly to the R uses some small doubtful layaways. Various runners are possible, including some unexpected cams, but the placements are poor.<br/><br/></climb> <climb id="16" name="Face Saver" fa="N. Ward, P. Jackson, June 1982." grade="10" length="" number="" extra="S2" stars="">A fairly pleasant chimney which develops a good atmosphere and has an amazing jug above the exit.</climb> <climb id="17" name="Sweat Hog" fa="P. Jackson, N. Ward, June 1982." grade="16" length="" number="" extra="S2" stars="">Not inspiring, despite nice finger jams at half height on the crux. Care is needed on the exit where protection is wobbly and rock more so.<br/><br/></climb> <climb id="18" name="Shadowfax" fa="N. Ward in a brave and marathon effort, P. Jackson, R. De Cesar, Nov 1981." grade="18" length="" number="" extra="S2" stars="">A sweeping line with an enjoyable well protected crux at the bulge where the crack narrows. The upper sections are sloping and still need more cleaning. The longest route – 30 m.<br/><br/></climb> <climb id="21" name="Nite Clubbing" fa="Al Adams, N. Ward & G. Cooper, June 1984. " grade="19" length="20m" number="" extra="" stars="">Best done after a big night out! Start up the hollow flake 2m R of Shadowfax, then move R below the BR to a shallow groove. Climb up past the small flakes to an interesting series of moves up to and past the next BR. Continue up the headwall to finish 3m R of Shadowfax. <br/></climb> <climb id="19" name="The Filcher" fa="D. Fife, N. Ward, Jan 1981." grade="14" length="" number="" extra="S2" stars="">Originally cleaned by Ward in an epic effort only to be solved by Fife. Jams to the off-width solved by a layaway.<br/><br/></climb> <climb id="22" name="Runts will Grunt " fa="G. Cooper, N. Ward, A. Adams, June 1984." grade="19" length="20m" number="" extra="" stars="">A route for the longer person. Start up the mossy wall 5m R of The Filcher and in to a cave on the R. Move up past BR, L of cave and traverse L slightly to next BR. Follow line of pockets to top moving R to finish. <br/></climb> </guide> |
Overview
Content Tools