Page History

<guide>
  <header id="1" autonumber="true" camping="" access="Head up the valley track to the Colosseum. Where the track goes up a little rise, and then takes a hard right turn to head up the valley below the Colosseum, there is a tree with purple markers. Keep going straight ahead to pick up the track up the ridge marked with purple tape. The track zigzags up the ridge, then contours around left to the buttresses." history="" intro="North Ridge is the ridge directly opposite the valley from Plebians Wall. It has patches of excellent rock, and morning shade." acknowledgement="" rock="" sun="West facing - sun after midday" walk="30-35 mins" name="North Ridge"/>
  <text class="heading3" id="2">Sunbeam Buttress</text>
  <text class="text" id="20">Follow the track 50m past Romance Buttress.</text>
  <image id="9" src="Photo 7-10-18, 11 48 28 am.jpg" height="1067" legend="true" width="800" legendylegendx="20269" legendxlegendy="26920">
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      <path id="87039" linkedTo="3" d="M249.0,736.0C267.8,676.4 284.6,628.5 296.0,587.0C307.4,545.5 311.0,523.8 319.0,482.0C327.0,440.2 330.7,419.2 336.0,377.0C341.3,334.8 343.2,300.2 348.0,249.0" linkedTo="3points="249.0,736.0, 296.0,587.0, 319.0,482.0, 336.0,377.0, 348.0,249.0,lower"/>
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    <legend>
      <climb>3</climb>
      <climb>4</climb>
      <climb>5</climb>
      <climb>6</climb>
    </legend>
  </image>
  <climb id="3" name="Stella&apos;s Climb" starslength="***15m" numberfa="1Jon Nermut, Dave Humphries, Oct. 2018." gradeextra="218Þ" extragrade="8Þ21" fanumber="Jon Nermut, Dave Humphries, Oct. 20181." lengthstars="15m***">The orange streak. Glorious jug hauling leads to a harder finish.</climb>
  <climb id="4" name="Fake News" starslength="*15m" number="2." grade="20" extra="8Þ" fa="Jon Nermut, Dave Humphries, Oct. 2018." lengthextra="8Þ" grade="20" number="2." stars="15m*">The wall to the right of Stella's Climb.</climb>
  <climb id="5" name="Modern Trad" starslength="*15m" numberfa="3." grade="19Dave Humphries, Jon Nermut Oct 2018" extra="" fagrade="Dave Humphries, Jon Nermut Oct 2018" length="15m19" number="3." stars="*">Nice to revisit techniques from the olden days. Climb the crack clipping the bolts on Sunbeam. When this becomes too difficult, run it out trad style or place one or more 1/2-2 cam units (also trad style). Clip the Sunbeam anchors.</climb>
  <climb id="6" name="Sunbeam" starslength="**15m" number="4." grade="20" extra="Þ" fa="Dave Humphries, Jon Nermut, Sep 2018." length="15mextra="Þ" grade="20" number="4." stars="**">Interesting climbing on the left side of the turret.</climb>
  <text idclass="37heading3" classid="heading337">Tough Love Buttress</text>
  <text idclass="38text" classid="text38">The buttress just to the left of Romance Buttress.</text>
  <image id="39" src="Tough Love Buttress.jpg" height="933" width="700" legend="true" legendTitle="Tough Love Buttess" width="700">
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      <path id="77461" points="468.0,891.0, 454.0,30.0,lower" linkedTo="40" d="M468.0,891.0C462.4,546.6 459.6,374.4 454.0,30.0" points="468.0,891.0, 454.0,30.0,lower"/>
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    <legend>
      <climb>40</climb>
    </legend>
  </image>
  <climb id="40" starsname="**Tough Love" extralength="7Þ12m" numberfa="5." name="Tough Love" length="12mDavid Stephenson and Neale Smith, October 2019" extra="7Þ" grade="22" fanumber="5."David Stephenson and Neale Smith, October 2019 stars="**">Nice climbing up the overhanging arete, starting from the base.</climb>
  <text class="heading3" id="7">Romance Buttress</text>
  <text class="text" id="21">The big buttress you come to after the track crosses a big broad gully.</text>
  <image id="34" src="IMG_0678.JPG" height="800" width="600" legend="true" legendTitle="Romance Buttress" width="600" legendx="16" legendy="11">
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    <legend>
      <climb>32</climb>
      <climb>33</climb>
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  <climb id="32" name="Valentine" starslength="**" number="6." grade="21" extra="8Þ  " 17m" fa="Neale Smith, Bob Bull, Feb 2019" lengthextra="17m">The8Þ splitter finger crack in " grade="21" number="6." stars="**">The splitter finger crack in the middle of the North facing grey wall of Romance Buttress. Up the crack with crux where crack fades. Steep and fingery on great rock.</climb>
  <climb id="33" name="A Bit on The Side" starslength="**" number="7." grade="17" extra="9Þ" 20m" fa="Bob Bull, Neale Smith, Feb 2019" length="20mextra="9Þ" grade="17" number="7." stars="**">The right arete of the grey wall. Starts at base of Valentine and moves across the wall with a couple of thin moves(crux) then up the arete. Lovely position.</climb>
  <climb id="35" stars="**" extra="11Þ" number="8." name="Unrequited" length="25m" gradefa="20" fa="NealeNeale Smith, Dave Stephenson and Bob Bull, September 2019." extra="11Þ" grade="20" number="8." stars="**">A fine climb up the left side of the front of the buttress, with a couple of crux sections.</climb>
  <image id="10" src="Photo 7-10-18, 1 24 50 pm.jpg" height="979" legend="true" legendTitle="Romance Buttress" width="600" legendylegendx="17414" legendxlegendy="41417">
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    <legend>
      <climb>33</climb>
      <climb>35</climb>
      <climb>8</climb>
    </legend>
  </image>
  <climb id="8" name="Romance is All in the Wrist" starslength="***" number="9." grade="18" extra="Þ" 25m" fa="Dave Humphries, Jon Nermut, Oct 2018." length="25mextra="Þ" grade="18" number="9." stars="***">A great mix of styles up the right side of the prominent buttress. Holds appear when desired. Will improve with age.</climb>
  <image id="30" src="IMG_0639.JPG" height="800" legend="true" legendTitle="Romance Buttress" width="600" legendylegendx="1619" legendxlegendy="1916">
    <drawing>
      <path id="46721" linkedTo="22" pointsd="322M322.0,782.0C322.0,619.6 322.0,376.0, 334.0,304.0, 352.0,270.0, 350.0,243.0, 339.0,221.0, 319.0,205.0, 307.0,127.0,lower" d="M322.0,782.0C322.0,619.6 321.321.3,405.2 322.0,376.0C322.7,346.8 329.8,318.8 334.0,304.0C338.2,289.2 349.3,280.5 352.0,270.0C354.7,259.5 352.5,252.5 350.0,243.0C347.5,233.5 345.2,228.6 339.0,221.0C332.8,213.4 322.3,214.7 319.0,205.0C315.7,195.3 311.8,158.2 307.0,127.0" linkedTo="22"/points="322.0,782.0, 322.0,376.0, 334.0,304.0, 352.0,270.0, 350.0,243.0, 339.0,221.0, 319.0,205.0, 307.0,127.0,lower"/>
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    <legend>
      <climb>22</climb>
    </legend>
  </image>
  <climb id="22" name="Lars and The Real Girl" starslength="**21m" numberfa="10." grade="20" extra="Þ  " fa="Neale Smith and Bob Bull, Feb 2018" length="21mNeale Smith and Bob Bull, Feb 2018" extra="Þ  " grade="20" number="10." stars="**">The more than obvious corner crack and overhang to right of Romance is All in The Wrist. No further guidance required. Grade Updated - 18-20 following a number of ascents.</climb>
  <text class="heading3" id="11">Anxiety Buttress</text>
  <text class="text" id="19">This is the orange/yellow buttress at the top of the hill. Approach by scrambling up the gully before Romance Buttress, or traverse across the tops of the lower cliffs from the right.</text>
  <image id="14" src="anxiety2.jpg" height="780" legend="true" legendTitle="Anxiety LHS" width="600" legendylegendx="109" legendxlegendy="910">
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      <path id="44673" points="439.0,295429.0,705.0, 406.0,457.0, 457.0,387.0, 403442.0,221296.0,label 411451.0,109226.0, 399434.0,16171.0," arrow="true"/>
      <path id="44673" linkedTo="16" d="M439.0,295.0C434.0,267.2 407.9,253.6 403.0,221.0C398.1,188.4 411.7,146.5 411.0,109.0C410.3,71.5 403.8,53.2 399.0,16.0" linkedTo="16"/>
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    <legend>
      <climb>12</climb>
      <climb>16</climb>
      <climb>15</climb>
    </legend>
  </image>
  <climb id="12" name="Hysterical" starslength="**15m" number="11." grade="20" extra="10Þ" fa="Dave Humphries, Jon Nermut Nov 2018" length="15mextra="10Þ" grade="20" number="11." stars="**">Bring your psych! Great climbing that feels very exposed for such a short climb. Nice jugs to the main lip, turn this as gracefully as you can then up the superb headwall.</climb>
  <climb id="16" name="Nose Project" starslength="15m" numberfa="12." gradeextra="Þ" extragrade="Þ" fanumber="12." lengthstars="15m">Project - Jon &amp; Dave - the steep nose of the buttress</climb>
  <image id="18" src="anxiety1.jpg" height="600" legend="true" legendTitle="Anxiety RHS" width="800" legendylegendx="19617" legendxlegendy="61719">
    <drawing>
      <path id="91375" points="354.0,497.0, 347.0,251.0, 394.0,160.0, 430.0,19.0,linkedTo="15" d="M354.0,497.0C351.2,398.6 342.2,291.7 347.0,251.0C351.8,210.3 380.2,198.6 394.0,160.0C407.8,121.4 415.6,75.4 430.0,19.0" linkedTo="15" arrow="true"/>
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      <path id="16956" linkedTo="17" d="M399.0,523.0C403.4,437.4 404.0,342.8 410.0,309.0C416.0,275.2 445.2,242.7 450.0,233.0C454.8,223.3 459.2,218.7 460.0,208.0C460.8,197.3 458.2,167.2 457.0,140.0" linkedTo="17"/>
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      <path id="10983" linkedTo="13" d="M509.0,562.0C510.6,515.2 510.0,460.3 513.0,445.0C516.0,429.7 532.0,429.4 538.0,415.0C544.0,400.6 545.4,381.5 549.0,359.0C552.6,336.5 556.2,306.8 561.0,272.0" linkedTo="13points="509.0,562.0, 513.0,445.0, 538.0,415.0, 549.0,359.0, 561.0,272.0,lower"/>
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    <legend>
      <climb>15</climb>
      <climb>17</climb>
      <climb>13</climb>
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  <climb id="15" name="Smokey Bear Mode" starslength="*15m" numberfa="13Jon Nermut, Dave Humphries, Jan 2019." gradeextra="186Þ" extragrade="6Þ18" fanumber="Jon Nermut, Dave Humphries, Jan 201913." lengthstars="15m*">Takes a line to the right of the nose. Steep, juggy and fun.</climb>
  <climb id="17" name="Project" starslength="" numberfa="14." gradeextra="" extragrade="" fanumber="14." lengthstars="">Project - Jon &amp; Dave - roof 3m right of Smokey Bear Mode.</climb>
  <climb id="13" name="Lactic Limit" starslength="*8m" numberfa="15." grade="22"Dave Humphries, Jon Nermut Dec 2018" extra="6 Þ  " fagrade="Dave Humphries, Jon Nermut Dec 2018" length="8m22" number="15." stars="*">Steep face to the right of the cave. Climb the steepening wall.</climb>
  <text class="heading3" id="27">Split Buttress</text>
  <text class="text" id="28">A shorter buttress at the right hand side of the big, broad gully, right next to the path, and split by an overhanging yellow crack.</text>
  <climb id="29" name="Be good... or don&apos;t get caught." stars="*" number="16." grade="20" extra="7 Þlength="12m" fa="Matt Crawford and Tony McKenny, Sept 2019." length="12m" extra="7 Þ" grade="20" number="16." stars="*">The overhanging crack. Steep and exciting climbing on good rock.</climb>
  <text idclass="42heading3" classid="heading342">Big View Buttress</text>
  <text idclass="43text" classid="text43">This>Follow isnormal the compactroute buttress up theto hillNorth toRidge. theInstead rightof ofheading Split ButtressLeft towards main North Ridge buttresses (Split Buttress, Romance etc), head Right and follow base of cliffs until locating this compact buttress which faces South -looking back over valley towards Colloseum/Plebians Wall. Nice pocketed rock with a good selection of short vertical routes in the 16-21 range.</text>
  <image id="44" src="Big View Buttress.jpg" height="1600" legend="true" legendTitle="Big View Buttress">
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    </drawing>
    <legend>
      <climb>45</climb>
      <climb>46</climb>
      <climb>47</climb>
      <climb>48</climb>
      <climb>49</climb>
      <climb>50</climb>
    </legend>
  </image>
  <climb id="45" starsname="" extra="7 ÞOn The Horizon" numberlength="17.10m" namefa="16" length="10m" grade="16" fa=""/>
  <climb id="46" stars="Neale Smith &amp; Bob Bull - January 2020" extra="7 Þ" grade="16" number="1817." namestars="Arete (project)" length="10m" grade="20" fa=""/>">Takes a journey up the L end of buttress - facing West. Steepish.</climb>
  <climb id="4746" starsname="Arete (project)" extralength="7 Þ10m" numberfa="19." nameextra="Kangaroos7 and DreamsÞ" lengthgrade="10m20" gradenumber="1918." fastars=""/>
>Has been <climb id="48" stars="" extra="7 Þ" number="20." name="BB (Project)" length="10m" grade="20" fa=""/>toproped - will be bolted. Will be quite ok despite proximity to routes L &amp; R.</climb>
  <climb id="4947" starsname="" extra="7 ÞKangaroos and Dreams" numberlength="21.10m" namefa="18" length="10m" grade="18" fa=""/>
  <climb id="50" stars="" Neale Smith and Bob Bull - January 2020" extra="7 Þ" numbergrade="22.19" namenumber="2119." lengthstars="10m" grade="21" fa=""/>>First route on L end main face (South). Looks easy but offers solid resistance. It has been said that you can't live on kangaroos and dreams - hopefully you do!</climb>
  <climb id="48" name="BB (Project)  The Squeeze" length="10m" fa="" extra="7 Þ" grade="19" number="20." stars="">Will let you know when it's done. Consistent. Thoughtful.</climb>
  <climb id="49" name="Buena Vista Social Club" length="10m" fa="Neale Smith and Bob Bull - January 2020" extra="7 Þ" grade="18" number="21." stars="">Pretty much up the middle of the wall. Head for the squarish block sticking out from the top. A good selection of holds - most of which are not that good. Will keep you entertained until the final clip.</climb>
  <climb id="50" name="Invasion Day" length="10m" fa="Neale Smith, Bob Bull &amp; Dave Stephenson - January 26th 2020" extra="7 Þ" grade="21" number="22." stars="">Start up the easy crack towards R end. Stand on a small ledge in comfort and then fondle the smooth wall above. Surprisingly awkward move or 2 followed by easier, but potentially pumpy climbing to the top.</climb>
</guide>