Page History

<guide version="3">
  <header access="These cliffs are situated between Fern Tree and Neika within the Wellington Park and access is over land owned by the City of Hobart. Park your car at the Fern Tree bus terminus 2.7 kilometres past the Fern Tree Tavern on the B64, and head back along the road 200 metres to a 4WD track on the L (GPS MTW500). Up this to meet the Pipeline Track. Go L along the Pipeline (south) and cross the 2 metal bridges and then 20m further on, make a R turn uphill on a partially overgrown 4WD track where there is some old barbed wire and a private property sign (GPS MTW510). Continue up the increasingly overgrown 4WD track for 100-200m through the re-growth to a clearer area with a yellow bank on the R and a small cairn (GPS MTW520). Leave the 4WD track, turn R and follow a steep and sometimes muddy track up to the base of the Lower Tier at the LH end of Blade Runner Buttress (GPS MTW530 - twenty minutes from the car). For access to the base of the Lower Tier routes simply traverse right from this point along a rough foot pad. For access to the Middle Tier, traverse L from this point under the Green Cliffs, then up and right on a track that leads to the base of the cliffline 25m L of Blizzard Buttress. The track up the hill can be pretty wet and slippery after rain." acknowledgement="" history="" intro="Also known as the Fern Tree Cliff, this crag consists of three tiers of good sandstone cliffs up to 25m high. The original routes done back in the eighties were trad, but almost all of the newer routes have been sport, and the cliff now has a good range of fully bolted routes between 19 and 31. The cliff would get more traffic if it weren&apos;t for the steep and sometimes muddy walk up, which takes around 20 minutes. The climbing is best in autumn and spring. Climbing is winter is possible on the north facing buttresses if it&apos;s been dry and you&apos;re reasonably hardy." name="Neika" rock="Bolted sandstone of reasonable quality" sun="All day sun" walk="20 min steep uphill" id="1" camping="" autonumber="true"/>
  <gps id="2">
    <point code="MTW500" description="Track up to Pipeline" easting="519916" height="0" northing="5246533" zone="55G" latitude="-42.93357" longitude="147.24408" pid="0"/>
    <point code="MTW510" description="Start of Ferntree 4WD track" easting="519571" height="0" northing="5246580" zone="55G" latitude="-42.93316" longitude="147.23985" pid="1"/>
    <point code="MTW520" description="Cairn - start of track up to cliff" easting="519602" height="0" northing="5246331" zone="55G" latitude="-42.93540" longitude="147.24024" pid="2"/>
    <point code="MTW530" description="Ferntree - Bladerunner Buttress" easting="519473" height="0" northing="5246381" zone="55G" latitude="-42.93495" longitude="147.23866" pid="3"/>
  </gps>
  <image src="FerntreeSmall.png" width="600" id="3" height="554">null</image>
  <text class="heading2" id="4">Lower Tier</text>
  <text class="intro" id="5">The climbs here are longer than higher up and most routes are fully bolted with lower-offs, the climbs are listed from L to R.</text>
  <text class="intro" id="6">Descent: There is a descent route that comes down the gully beside the Big Roof between Back On Track and Couch Potato. Note: The bolts and anchors on Urban Wasteland, Back On Track and Couch Potato are at least 10 years old, make your own judgments as to whether they are safe enough to climb on.</text>
  <text class="heading3" id="7">Green Cliffs</text>
  <text class="text" id="8">The track to the Middle Tier heads L from the Blade Runner Buttress, passing under a series of greenish buttresses. There are some OK moderate climbs on these buttresses, but bring a brush as the moss is threatening a come back. Routes are described L to R, which is opposite to the way you encounter them in this section.</text>
  <text id="90">The first routes are on the far left hand buttress, which is the last one before the track heads up to the Middle Tier.</text>
  <climb id="88" name="Manfern Massacre" stars="*" length="8m" grade="23" extra="3Þ" fa="Jon Nermut, Feb 2012." number="1.">The short overhang on the far left of the buttress, right next to where the track goes up. Up through the roof to the arete - energetic moves on good holds.</climb>
  <climb id="89" stars="*" name="Being Green" length="10m" grade="21" extra="4Þ" fa="Dave Humphries, Jon Nermut, Nov 2011." number="2.">Up the wall a few metres left of Jakes Project past 4 U bolts. At the third bolt step right off the ledge and use an undercling to surmount the bulge.</climb>
  <climb id="76" name="Jakes Project" length="10m" extra="Þ" number="3.">Project - Jake Bresnehan 2007. A steep line up the overhanging nose on the far left buttress,</climb>
  <text id="87">Black Hole Buttress is the second last buttress before the track heads up hill, with a prominent undercut arete.</text>
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      <climb>86</climb>
      <climb>78</climb>
      <climb>75</climb>
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  <climb id="86" name="Supermassive Black Hole" length="10m" stars="*" number="4." grade="22" extra="4Þ" fa="Jon Nermut, Oct 2011.">4 bolts through the overhang left of the arête. Use the anchors for the arete.</climb>
  <climb id="78" name="Project" number="5.">Project - the prominent arete left of Confabulation.</climb>
  <climb id="75" name="Confabulation" length="10m" grade="20" extra="5Þ" fa="D. Humphries, J. Nermut, Feb 2011." number="6.">On the second buttress left of Garden Wall as you walk along the track at the base of the cliffs is a bolted route 2m right of a bolted arete (project). Thoughtful start to get established on wall then pleasant wall climbing.</climb>
  <text id="68" class="text">Bad Books Buttress is the next small buttress left of Garden Walls.</text>
  <climb id="77" name="Bad Books" length="10m" grade="22" extra="3Þ" fa="Jon Nermut, Dave Humphries, May 2011." number="7.">The next buttress left of Garden Walls has a prominent arete - climb the line of three bolts to the right of this. Stick clip the first bolt which is a decent way off the ground to avoid the initial chossy rock.</climb>
  <image id="114" src="garden wall nls.jpg" width="500" legend="true" legendTitle="Garden Wall" legendx="328" legendy="12" height="666">
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      <climb>70</climb>
      <climb>71</climb>
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  <text id="69">Garden Wall is the small wall 50m left of Blade Runner buttress, split by a narrow crack (Old School).</text>
  <climb id="70" stars="*" name="Harden Up" length="8m" grade="21" extra="3Þ ↓" fa="Dave Humphries, Jon Nermut, Dec 2010" number="8.">Face climbing on the left side of the wall. Easier if you stray L.</climb>
  <climb id="71" stars="*" name="Old School" length="10m" grade="19" fa="Dave Humphries, Jon Nermut, Dec 2010" extra=" ↓" number="9.">A nice warm-up for Harden Up. Climb the narrow crack then traverse to the anchors on Harden Up. Take a range of small cams.</climb>
  <text class="heading3" id="9">Blade Runner Buttress</text>
  <text class="text" id="10">This is the buttress where the access track first meets the Lower Tier. There are currently a number of other projects in this area but the main ones climbed to date (2007) are described here. Note to visiting climbers: please don't take the fixed draws and biners as they are there for everyone's convenience. Traverse R a short distance to the start of Fly Blown. Routes described L to R.</text>
  <image id="115" src="scared turtle nls.jpg" width="500" legend="true" legendTitle="Scared Turtle Buttress" legendx="336" legendy="330" height="416">
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  <climb id="72" stars="**" name="The Scared Turtle" length="15m" grade="22" extra="6Þ" fa="Jon Nermut, Dave Humphries, Jan 2011." number="10.">Up the narrow buttress directly above where the track first meets the cliff. 6 eyebolts to lower off.</climb>
  <climb extra="Þ ↓" grade="21" length="10m" name="Fly Blown" number="11." stars="" id="11" fa="G. Phillips, 2006.">Climb up the L side of the cave, pull round the overhang and then the slab to the chains.</climb>
  <climb extra="Þ ↓" grade="22" length="10m" name="Itchy Fingers" number="12." stars="*" id="12" fa="G. Phillips, Dec 2006.">As for Fly Blown but at the jugs traverse R and up via a thin sequence of moves.</climb>
  <climb extra="Þ ↓" grade="" length="" name="The Bat Project" number="13." stars="" id="13">Project 2007 - Direct start to Itchy Fingers, dubbed the Bat Project after finding a live bat in the cave.</climb>
  <climb extra="Þ ↓" grade="31" length="8m" name="Future Shock" number="14." stars="***" id="14" fa="J. Bresnehan, Feb 2006.">From the offwidth chimney head rightwards.Crazy stuff!</climb>
  <image id="121" src="bladerunner nl 2.jpg" height="552" width="500" legend="true" legendTitle="Blade Runner" legendx="7" legendy="5">
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  <text class="text" id="15">The next four routes share the same start.</text>
  <climb extra="Þ ↓" grade="29" length="15m" name="Blubber Boy" number="15." stars="***" id="16" fa="G. Phillips, Feb 2006.">Awesome final section. As for Blade Runner but keep heading leftwards.</climb>
  <climb extra="Þ ↓" grade="28" length="15m" name=" Blade Runner" number="16." stars="**" id="17" fa="G. Phillips, Jan 2006.">Starts up New C4's to the last bolt then traverses L along a break on tiny holds to a hard boulder problem finish.</climb>
  <climb extra="Þ ↓" grade="21" length="15m" name="New C4s" number="17." stars="*" id="18" fa="G. Phillips, Dec 2005.">Climb directly up the slightly overhanging wall passing a thin section (crux) at two thirds height. The rock gets better with height (thankfully).</climb>
  <climb extra="Þ ↓" grade="24" length="15m" name="Sand Blaster" number="18." stars="**" id="19" fa="G. Phillips, Jan 2006">Starts up New C4s then traverses R along the break and up the cool looking arête.</climb>
  <climb extra="Þ ↓" grade="23" length="15m" name=" Sand Blaster Direct" number="19." stars="" id="20" fa="G. Phillips, Jan 2006.">The direct goes at 23 but is rated 'not so good'.</climb>
  <text id="65">There are a couple of bolted lines on the next buttress R - step across from the start of New C4s. I'm not sure if these have been done or not.</text>
  <text id="66" class="text">Next right from Bladerunner buttress are a series of smaller buttresses up above the track. Scramble up just right of Bladerunner Buttress.</text>
  <image id="123" src="grub.JPG" height="803" legendTitle="Grub Buttress" legend="true" legendx="13" legendy="12" printLayout="OneColumn">
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      <climb>124</climb>
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  <climb id="124" stars="*" extra="Þ" number="20." name="You Are Such a Grub" length="10m" grade="20" fa="Jon Nermut, May 2014.">Straight above where you scramble up, climb the face to the R of the corner to a little roof. 3 Us to a DBB.</climb>
  <climb id="67" name="Who Knows?" length="10m" grade="25" extra="4Þ" fa="Unknown " number="21." stars="">On the next decent buttress 40m or so to the right of Grub, 4 U bolts lead through a thin crux after the second bolt. There are 2 FH over the top, but you can't lower off them (they need some shackles or chain).</climb>
  <text class="heading3" id="21">Trad Wankers Buttress</text>
  <text id="73">Trad Wankers Buttress is the decent sized but chossy looking buttress straight above the track about 150m R of the Blade Runner Area.</text>
  <climb extra="" grade="18" length="15m" name="Careful" number="22." stars="" id="22" fa="D. Humphries, J. Burgess, Oct 2005.">The excitement of an unexpected plunge gives meaning to the name. Start below a series of broken corners. Climb over the loose blocks and gain the corner proper. Follow the corner to an exciting top out. A good clean would remove much of the excitement. All natural pro a range of midsized cams and wires.</climb>
  <text class="heading3" id="24">Back On Track Buttress</text>
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      <climb>26</climb>
      <climb>27</climb>
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  <text class="text" id="25">Continue R to the next area, about 60m, where a big, clean face appears above the track with a couple of bolted lines. Currently there are only a couple of routes in this area but there is potential for several more. UW and BOT have faded initials painted on the rock at the bottom.</text>
  <climb extra="Þ ↓" grade="20" length="22m" name="Urban Wasteland" number="23." stars="**" id="26" fa="S Edwards, G. Phillips, 1994.">Test your resolve on this baby. Start 2m L of Back On Track at the initials UW. Take some small to medium cams and 8+ quick draws. Follow the L bolt line to the flake then head for the DBB to finish. A little dirty in places, but should clean up with some traffic.</climb>
  <climb extra="Þ ↓" grade="22" length="22m" name="Back On Track" number="24." stars="" id="27" fa="S. Edwards, G. Phillips, 1994.">Anybody got a spare pair of undies? Starts at initials BOT. Head through overhang and up the clean wall above to DBB. Take 8+ quick draws.</climb>
  <text class="heading3" id="28">Big Roof Buttress</text>
  <text class="text" id="29">This area is about 230m R of Blade Runner Buttress, and the next buttress right of Back On Track Buttress. Just to the R of the big roof is a descent/ascent gully for the top of the cliff.</text>
  <climb extra="Þ ↓" grade="19" length="15m" name="Scotch Finger" number="25." stars="" id="30" fa="S. Young, 2006.">This bolted route starts 5m L of the big roofs. Follow the line of bolts to the lower off. A bit loose in parts and may be a tad under graded.</climb>
  <climb extra="Þ ↓ " grade="26" length="15m" name="Chalk" number="26." stars="" id="31" fa="G. Phillips Mar 2007">The left line of bolts finishing on the slab belay.</climb>
  <climb extra="Þ ↓ " grade="26 " length="15m" name="Cheese" number="27." stars="*" id="32" fa="G. Phillips Mar 2007">The R line of bolts up the overhanging arête.</climb>
  <text class="heading3" id="33">Couch Potato Area</text>
  <text class="text" id="34">The last area is way over to the R, the farthest bolted routes from where the track meets the crag. Couch Potato and Apocalypse Now have faded initials at the start.</text>
  <climb id="62" name="Freshly Baked" length="20m" grade="23" fa="A. Lewis, W. Bartlett, June 2010" extra="8Þ" number="28.">The first bolted route you come to. Start 5m left of Couch Potato in a steep corner capped by roof. Up corner then out L through roof, mantle onto slab then up the groove to the top. 8 bolts to a lower off.</climb>
  <climb extra="Þ ↓" grade="24" length="25m" name="Couch Potato" number="29." stars="**" id="35" fa="S. Edwards, G. Phillips, 1994.">Not strictly a sport route as it is usually climbed with some trad gear. Starts at a hanging corner and climbs the off-vertical wall above. The initials CP are painted on the rock at the start. Head up following the bolts to the top through a balancy move at the slab to interesting moves just below the DBB. Belay here or continue to the top and walk down the descent gully. Take 8+ quick draws and some small to medium cams.</climb>
  <climb extra="" grade="22" length="20m" name="Apocalypse Now" number="30." stars="" id="36" fa="S. Edwards, G. Philips, 1994.">A completely trad affair. Start 15m R of Couch Potato at the painted initials.</climb>
  <text class="heading2" id="37">Middle Tier</text>
  <text class="intro" id="38">Climbs on the Middle Tier are generally shorter than the Lower Tier. There is a large potential for new routes here, both trad and sport.</text>
  <text class="intro" id="39">Access: Where the main access track meets the Blade Runner buttress head L for 75m below the cliffline to the L end of Green Cliff. Follow the track up the hill trending slightly right then more directly up the hill. The track meets the base of an unclimbed buttress 25m L of Baltoro Blizzard. Traverse R to the start of the climbs. The cliff line continues further on R after Pluto as a series of 10m high buttresses.</text>
  <text class="intro" id="40">Descent: Scramble down for the trad routes, lower offs for the others.</text>
  <image src="fern tree.png" width="" id="41" height="601">null</image>
  <text class="heading3" id="42">Blizzard Buttress</text>
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  <text id="95">Blizzard Buttress is the first buttress to the right of where the track meets the Middle Tier.</text>
  <climb id="93" number="31." name="Birthday Party" length="10m" grade="21" extra="Þ" fa="Jon Nermut, Mar 2012.">Balancey moves up the left hand side of the wall with the crux at the last move. Too dirty to be any good.</climb>
  <climb id="94" number="32." name="Happy Anniversary Sweetie" fa="Dave Humphries April 2012" length="10m" grade="22" extra="Þ  " stars="**">Ten metres of surprisingly pumpy, technical climbing gets to the top. Stick clip the first of 4 bolts + anchors.</climb>
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  <climb extra="" grade="18" length="15m" name="Baltoro Blizzard" number="33." stars="" id="43" fa="Phil Steane, D. Bruce, Dec 1982.">Takes the overhung hand crack 25m R of where the access track first meets the Middle Tier. Finish up the arête. Looks a little dirty but could be good with a clean up.</climb>
  <climb id="117" stars="**" extra="4Þ" number="34." name="Chucky Chuck" length="10m" grade="18" fa="Jon Nermut, Dec 2013.">Probably the best easier climb at Neika. Start at the shallow crack to the R of Baltoro Blizzard, head up left on good holds.</climb>
  <climb id="118" stars="*" extra="4Þ" number="35." name="No Name Yet" length="10m" grade="19" fa="Dave Humphries, Dec 2013.">Start as for Chucky Chuck, head R and layback up the seam. At the top head back L to the same anchor.</climb>
  <climb extra="" grade="17" length="15m" name="Hore Frost" number="36." stars="" id="44" fa=" D. Bruce, Phil Steane. 1982">Needs a good clean. This route is on the second buttress R of Baltoro Blizzard. The thin diagonal line up the wall.</climb>
  <text id="91" class="heading3">Kick Start Area</text>
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  <text id="96">From Blizzard Buttress go right another 30m or so to the main area of more impressive cliffs.</text>
  <climb extra="" grade="19" length="15m" name="Spin Drift" number="37." stars="" id="45" fa="Phil Steane, D. Bruce, 1982">The tree is off route! The short clean crack in the wall opposite Hore Frost and 8m L of the Deep Freeze arête.</climb>
  <climb extra="" grade="18 " length="15m" name="Deep Freeze " number="38." stars="" id="46" fa="G. Narkowicz, Pete Steane 1981.">About 50m R of where the access track meets the base of rock, a diagonal overhanging layback crack spears up the arête. Jam 2m up an easy crack to a stance at the foot of an overhanging corner/crack running diagonally R. Climb this and proceed up the protection-less slab to the top.</climb>
  <climb extra="Þ" grade="29" length="12m" name="Kick Start " number="39." stars="***" id="47" fa="G. Phillips, Apr 2007.">The amazing overhanging arête 1m R of Deep Freeze, and L of the corner. Power up for the 10 move boulder sequence.</climb>
  <climb extra="5Þ" grade="26" length="15m" name="Sleep, Eat, Bolt, Climb, Repeat" number="40." stars="**" id="48" fa="A. Lewis, S. Young, June 2010.">5 bolts up steep wall R of Kickstart. A technical crux to the 4th bolt leads to jugs up the headwall to a lower off.</climb>
  <climb extra="" grade="17" length="15m" name="Ice House" number="41." stars="" id="49" fa="G. Narkowicz, C. Maddock 1981">The most obvious corner on the cliff with a jam crack. The L face is overhanging. Bridge and jam straight to top.</climb>
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  <climb extra="Þ ↓" grade="22" length="12m" name="Belay Bunny " number="42." stars="*" id="50" fa="G. Phillips, S. Young, 5 Mar 2007.">The line of bolts up the wall to the R of the corner.</climb>
  <climb extra="" grade="17" length="15m" name="Frigid Digit" number="43." stars="" id="51" fa="Pete Steane, G. Narkowicz, 1981.">A thin, curving flake line that shares the start to Belay Bunny. Lay away up obvious flake running diagonally R, then climb up until you can reach high for an invisible bomb-proof jug. Climb to the ledge above and on to the top or step around into Andre Zanada to finish.</climb>
  <climb extra="" grade="17" length="15m" name="Andre Zanada" number="44." stars="*" id="52" fa=" P.B. Steane, P.A. Steane, 1981.">Two converging cracks in the corner R of Frigid Digit. Climb either crack then layback the thin flake and traverse R under final headwall then up the headwall.</climb>
  <climb id="101" name="Lots of Box" extra="Þ ↓" stars="*" length="12m" grade="21" fa="Jon Nermut, Apr 2012." number="45.">The line of 5 bolts up the wall and roof just right of the Andre Zanada corner. There is a variant that is a few grades harder by eliminating the crack to the left.</climb>
  <climb id="102" name="Project" extra="Þ ↓  " number="46.">Project (open). Start just left of Hermit Crab Shuffle, go up and L and through the roof, before joining Hermit Crab at the end.</climb>
  <climb extra="Þ ↓" grade="24" length="12m" name="Hermit Crab Shuffle" number="47." stars="*" id="53" fa="S. Young, G. Phillips, Mar 2007.">The third line of bolts up the wall 8m to the R of Andre Zanada.</climb>
  <climb extra="Þ ↓" grade="29" length="15m" name="Star Seeker" number="48." stars="**" id="54" fa="G. Phillips, May 2007.">Intergalactic fortune and fame! The direct version of Neptune.</climb>
  <climb extra="Þ ↓" grade="28" length="15m" name="Neptune" number="49." stars="*" id="55" fa="G. Phillips, May 2007.">Up the arête to the roof. Then traverse the lip and around R and up to finish.</climb>
  <climb extra="" grade="18" length="15m" name="Brass Monkey " number="50." stars="" id="56" fa="G. Narkowicz, Pete Steane, 1981.">This climb is 15m R, around the arête from Hermit Crab Shuffle. Mantle onto overhanging ledge. Protection in thin crack on the L. Climb to roof and traverse R for 1.5m. Jam through the roof and follow the crack to the top.</climb>
  <climb extra="Þ ↓" grade="21" length="10m" name="Pluto" number="51." stars="*" id="57" fa="S. Young, May 2007.">Steep start. Up the line of bolts up the arête on the next buttress R of Brass Monkey.</climb>
  <climb id="112" name="Eris" length="8m" grade="18" extra="4Þ" fa="Jon Nermut, Sep 2012." number="52.">Up the steepish face 10m right and up around the corner from Pluto. Would make a good warm up but needs traffic. There is a harder variation by not using the holds around the left arete.</climb>
  <text id="103" class="heading3">Dragons Buttress</text>
  <text id="104">From Pluto scramble across the hillside for 50-100m until you get to decent height rock again. Dragons Buttress is the second buttress with two bolted lines.</text>
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  <climb id="105" name="Here Be Dragons" number="53." stars="**" length="10m" grade="20" extra="4Þ" fa="Jon Nermut, Jul 2012.">The left hand line on the buttress up a technical groove. 4 bolts to DBB.</climb>
  <climb id="106" number="54." name="Project" length="10m" extra="3Þ">The right hand side of the buttress, jugs at the bottom and quite thin at the top. 3 bolts (stick clip the first) to DBB.</climb>
  <text id="108">The next climbs are on the next decent buttress about 40m right of Dragons Buttress.</text>
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  <climb id="110" number="55." name="Gangnam Style" length="10m" grade="23" extra="5Þ" stars="**" fa="Jon Nermut, Oct 2012.">The excellent arete with a steep start then technical slab climbing.</climb>
  <climb id="111" number="56." name="Access Ramp" length="10m" grade="20" extra="4Þ" fa="Dave Humphries, Sep 2012." stars="*">Start at the short corner, then up and right to the big pocket. From the second bolt move right and up to the slopey ledge, then back left to the clip the third bolt. Continue up the slab to a DBB.</climb>
  <text class="heading2" id="58">Upper Tier</text>
  <text class="text" id="59">Above the Middle Tier there is yet another layer on the cake, if you want to walk that far, the rock is similar to the Middle Tier. There are about 5 or 6 lines bolted up here, with potential for a few more.</text>
  <text class="intro" id="60">Access: From the Middle Tier either scramble up the next gully past Pluto, or the gully a couple of buttresses to the right of Dragons Buttress. Alternatively, a gully just to the R of the Big Roof Area on the Lower Tier can be climbed up steeply, past the buttresses of the Middle Tier, to the same point.</text>
  <climb id="79" name="Project" number="57.">Project - Alex. Further left from the other climbs is another bolted line.</climb>
  <text id="63">About 15m L of where the track meets the buttress, just L of a big chossy roof, there are 2 converging lines of bolts to a lower off.</text>
  <climb id="80" name="Project" number="58.">Project - Alex. The LH line.</climb>
  <climb id="64" name="Not Worth the Ink " length="10m" grade="21" fa="A.Lewis, W.Bartlett Jul 2010." extra="Þ" number="59.">The RH line. Start by jumping for a jug on the lip of the cave to clip the first bolt. Up arête to ledge then face above.</climb>
  <text id="81">To the left of the prow are are some bolted projects.</text>
  <climb extra="Þ ↓" grade="25" length="10m" name="No Name" number="60." stars="" id="61" fa="G. Phillips,18 Apr 2009.">The steep overhanging prow at the extreme RH end. Jugs lead to a powerful fingery crux.</climb>
</guide>