Nesting peregrine falcons near top pitches of Winning Streaks. Best avoided for a while.

Lost draws at Paradiso.

Hi folks. I think I left two grey Petzl draws with blue Oxygen bentgates at the Paradiso on 1 November. Probably at the top of Man's Machine or Too Tall Oxen.

Tiger Snake at SR

Watch out for the tiger snake we came across among the rocks at the foot of Shape Shifter/Pinball access a couple of weeks ago. And elsewhere at SR perhaps?

Just a heads up for people planning to climb at or around Cradle Mountain in the future. 

I just read a post from Parks (link: Looks like they've removed a fair quantity of climber's slings as a part of NationalRecycleWeek.

If you're planning to climb there I would take multiple new slings for setting up rappels.  

Rocky Cape peregrines

Rocky Cape peregrine falcons are presently nesting to the right of North Cave in the Ramp area so do not climb here in the nesting season (August through December)

There was no Parks warning sign or other notice when we were there recently.

If your are unlucky you may have the unpleasant experience of being yelled at by a belligerent 'protector of the birds' as well as being threatened with breaking the law. 

Despite the annoying abuse I do agree about protecting the falcons. A warning notice would have been useful as has been placed at Sand River.

A by product of this was the fellow wanted to completely ban climbing on the cliffs so another warning , like the Grampians and Araps., future climbing access is under threat.

The Peregrine Falcons  are restless again up in the Panopticon area  and are likely nesting now. A sign has again been erected at the left hand part (Northern end)  of the crag and climbers are asked to stay out of that area till they have gone. Thanks.

[more screenshots under the first image, please scroll down]

HI all,

Let me preface this by saying that I already sent an email to Jon a few days ago reporting this, so he is aware. I would however like to gather a bit more information in order to have a better understanding of the issue and hopefully help him solve it.

Issue #1: on my Samsung Galaxy A51 running Android 10, after opening the Thesarvo app, the main menu hangs on "Checking for updates", which isn’t a normal behaviour. Looks like it isn’t updating normally.

Issue #2: more worrying yet, some crags are missing routes compared to the web version, including major walls.

For example: if you go to Whitewater Wall using a web browser (either on a computer or on a smartphone), it contains different routes from the app version (missing routes 12, as well as 16, 17 and 18). See below:

Left is the app version, right is the web version.


There are other things missing on other pages, for example Fruehauf, so I assume a lot of the content isn’t being updated at all.

I don’t remember having this issue on my previous Android phone running Marshmallow.

Has anyone else experienced this or am I alone in this? If yes, please provide as much technical information as you can.


Found a chalkbag

Found a dippers chalkbag at Whitewater boulders a couple of days ago.

Belong to anyone?

New Routes 2020


I couldn't find the new routes 2020 page so I thought I'd create one. 

New route at Thylacine Buttress, Dog Leg Bend, North West Bay River.

*Barking Mad 24 20m 9 Bolts 

Start 4m Left of Wile E. Coyote. Chin up on the jug to clip the first bolt or stick clip. Funky moves lead to easy ground. Power up the sustained headwall and exit to the right. DBB.

FA: Tom Fulton, Pat Eberhard. May 2020

 Barking Mad line is depicted in red here Screen Shot 2020-05-30 at 8.55.13 pm.png



The Choss Files - Collins Cap

I haven't written up some choss in a long time, but this one is an almost-good-enough cliff that's obvious on a map, that will no doubt get visited again, but probably just a bit too much effort to get to.

I went for a walk on the Glen Dhu Trail on sunday, which goes around the flanks of Collins Cap. It's quite close to the Yellow Cliffs - subject of a previous episode: The Choss Files - Glen Dhu Rd

The cliff itself is quite obvious on a satellite or lidar map see Google map - and was pointed out to me by Dave Thomas.

I parked at the cattle yards where there is a gate across the road on Nicholls Rd and walked from there. The first part of the trail is across private land until you get into the Wellington Park, but the people in the house seemed fine with people walking it.

Its a nice flat walk for half an hour past various bits of small choss, until the track starts zig zagging up the hill in some switch backs. When I could first see the cliff I started contouring across the hillside to it - this was probably a mistake as the hillside is steep AF. On the way back I walked from the top of the cliff, which is flatter, but still not easy walking through regrowth. Would need a track for sure.

The cliff has some ok looking sandstone, some of which would be over 30m high. Its at about 700m elevation, so probably part of the same layer of sandstone as Neika/Springs/Sphinx. It's NNW facing, so had some nice afternoon sun, and a beautiful view over the valley towards Mt Dromedary. 

There would be at least a dozen routes there I would have thought. But, its probably just a bit too much effort to get to, at 45/50+ minutes walk, with a steep uphill pinch and not easy walking at the end to gain the cliff. So probably destined to remain a curiosity, but maybe others will disagree.

Other choss files:



I'm relatively new to Hobart. Looking for a really good physio. Can anyone recommend anyone?


Dear climbers. I'm tired of the `Star Wars' and I would appreciate some feedback please. I am working on a third edition to Climb Tasmania, a selected best climbs guide... totally revamped with fresh topos, some new crags, action's going to be a kick-ass guide for visitors and locals alike. How would people react to a `starless' guide? I'm a bit weary of the endless debate about stars and the totally subjective nature of assessing the quality of routes. Having put up a few new routes, its hard not to be biased and to inflate stars on my own routes because new routers invest so much time and effort. But people are also attracted to certain styles of route and diss routes that don't suit them. Some routes may be a bit dirty or have certain imperfections, or hard to access, but still have some great climbing. One problem with stars is that people gravitate to the 3 star routes and perfectly good climbs get neglected. I would like to foster an old skill that many climbers from the past used to have, that is to walk under a cliff and say..that looks like a great route..let's try that... with no indication in the guide of its quality, but just enough information to decide FOR YOURSELF if its safe and worthwhile doing...restoring a bit of self reliance and a climbers ability to judge and assess risk and decide whether to climb a route or not, based on their assessment, and not being hand-held by a guidebook all the way up a route. After all, a bit of mystery and adventure is partly why we all like climbing. If it is a selected best climbs guide, then it should be assumed that most of the routes in there are worth doing..and I will recruit the opinions of seasoned and respected locals to make the route selection. What do people think of a starless guidebook..or is this a silly idea from a long-lost galaxy far far away...

Anyone need any climbing wall nuts ? climbing wall nuts.jpeg

If you can fix a few plywood sheets somewhere for your next NW Garage Arete, Attic Overhang, or Kitchen Direct, I have a bunch of extra climbing wall nuts if anyone needs a couple dozen or three. Free to locals of course.  Hobart area.


Sand River

Stu Scott just got a text from Justin, the owner of the farm at Sand River. He was pretty concerned that people were still climbing at Sand River this weekend, and he asked that 1. No one to climb or be on his land (which is the Panopticon South as well as his farm), and 2. no one to come near his house eg in the case of emergency, which has happened before.
I think from that anyone thinking of climbing out there should think again, at the risk of damaging long term relationships with the locals.

Forestry land is closed as of 30/3. This includes Sand River.

In the interest of public safety, Sustainable Timber Tasmania will close all recreational areas including picnic and camping grounds from 5pm AEST Friday 27 March 2020 until further notice.

In addition, gates on Permanent Timber Production Zone land accessing these areas will be closed from Monday 30 March 2020.

Sustainable Timber Tasmania will notify the public when these closures will be lifted.

  • As of May 11 you can exercise in parks and reserves within 30km of your residence (see the rules below)
  • Same applies to Wellington Park, but Pinnacle Rd is still closed
  • Same applies to Forestry land, including Sand River, but the 30km rule also applies. "As of Monday 11 May, Permanent Timber Production Zone land managed by Sustainable Timber Tasmania can be used for exercise activities by Tasmanian residents. Residents should only use public production forest within 30 kilometres of their place of residence."
  • Social distancing rules apply everywhere

Tasmania Parks and Wildlife Service

In March, a tough decision was made to close all PWS national parks and reserves across Tasmania to limit non-essential travel during the COVID-19 pandemic. We understand this has been difficult for our nature-loving community who enjoy a wide variety of recreational uses, including bushwalking, running and swimming in the natural spaces around us.

With strict physical distancing and group gathering restrictions now embedded in our daily lives, limited access to Tasmania’s national parks and reserves will be permitted from Monday 11 May, for the purpose of local exercise only.

So, what does this all mean?

• You may exercise at your local national park or reserve. You can either walk, cycle or run to your nearest park or reserve, and if this is not possible, drive to one within 30 kilometres of your place of residence

• You must return home after you have completed your exercise and only day use is permitted.

• Gathering for picnics or other recreational activities remains prohibited.

• If carparks are full, please move on and return at another time.

• Surfing and swimming are allowed.

• Physical distancing of at least 1.5 metres between each other must be adhered to and groups are limited to two people, except for household members. Visitor centres and campgrounds remain closed until further notice.

For more information visit our website at

Please note that Wellington Park will re-open but the Pinnacle Road will remain closed to vehicle traffic.