<?xml version="1.0" encoding="UTF-8"?>
<guide><text class="heading1" new="false"
        number="null.">Coningham</text><text class="Editor" new="false"
        number="null.">by Matt Perchard, originally published in Craglets.</text><text
        class="text">If the size and grandeur of a crag is important to you, then Coningham is not the place to head.  However, for the climber who seeks variety and a more balanced climbing experience, then this beaut little crag is definitely worth a look.
Despite its small size, there are several excellent routes to consider.  There is a good scattering of grades and styles - easy corners, steep faces, technical slabs and a mega-pumpy off-width.  The picturesque marine environment and the short walk are also major selling points.
The drive from Hobart doesn't take long which makes it good for after-work climbing sessions.  In fact, it takes no longer to get to Coningham than to Rocky Tom.  From Hobart, head south to Kingston via the Southern Outlet.  Just before Kingston, take the right-hand lane and continue through Margate and Snug.  About 1 km past Snug, the turn-off to the left leads along the shore to Coningham Beach.  Park here - twenty minutes from Hobart.   The walk to the crag is delightfully short.  It starts at the steps leading down left about 50m on from the beach.  Follow the path down to the shore, then south above the shore for a couple of hundred metres.  Within minutes the small sandstone cliffs are found falling away below you.  It is also possible to walk along the shore from the beach when the tide is down.</text><image
        new="false" noPrint="false" number="null."
        src="Conningham_Map.PNG" width="800">null</image><text
        class="text">The first climbs are found about 120m to the south of the main wall.  Walk along the path a few metres above the sea until you come to an off-width crack.  This is Cosmic Winch.  About 20m further on are two easy crack-lines.</text><text
        class="text" new="false"
        number="null.">Immediately L. of No Oxygen Needed is black graffiti on the wall, which says. “Duran Duran Rules, Okay!” The following three top roped climbs are L of this and worth a look, all traditional Coningham (i.e. nice and small).</text><climb
        extra="" grade="15" length="8m" name="Okay" new="false"
        number=""
        stars="">The face 1.5m L of Rules. Beware, the good holds run out at the top.  S.S./P.R. May 2005
</climb><climb
        extra="" grade="15" length="8m" name="Rules" new="false"
        number=""
        stars="">The seam 1.5m L of Duran Duran.  S.S./P.R. May 2005.
</climb><climb
        extra="" grade="15" length="8m" name="Duran Duran " new="false"
        number=""
        stars="">4m L of No Oxygen Needed is a thin finger crack. Climb this for 4m. Do not continue up the unpleasant wide crack but step left and follow the clean arête.  P.R/S.S. May 2005.
</climb><climb
        extra="" grade="14" length="10m" name="No Oxygen Needed"
        new="false" number=""
        stars="">The crack up the easy angled comer.  Climb it on finger jams and layaways. The bottom has eroded giving a desperate start. Traverse delicately in from the right for a 14. Nov/81.</climb><climb
        extra="" grade="17" length="10m"
        name="S and M">About 3m right of No Oxygen Needed is a crack up the face.  Climb the crack, through its widths, to an interesting move at the top.  Some of the rock (especially on the lower section) is a bit suspect, but the climb is still worthwhile and is surprisingly harder than it looks.  Nov/81.</climb><climb
        extra="" grade="" length="16/17" name="(Unnamed) " new="false"
        number=""
        stars="">The face 1.5m R of S and M, a bit contrived as one can escape L or R, but worth doing. Go L of the small cave at the top.  May 2005.
</climb><climb
        extra="" grade="24" length="12m"
        name="Cosmic Winch">A long standing problem with a strenuous and technical crux.  About 20m north of No Oxygen Needed is a bottomless, overhanging, off-width crack (sounds delightful!).  Don't start here.  Rather, climb the overhanging arete and face just left of the crack for a few metres.  Transfer right to the left-hand lip of the roof and crack, then ascend this steeply to the top.  Marcel Jackson, Dec/89.</climb><climb
        extra="" grade="17" length="12m"
        name="An Ultimate Answer">Aesthetically the best route at Coningham.  Start 2m seaward of Working in a Cod Mine at the base of the off-width crack separating the detached pinnacle from the main wall.  Complete choss - even Cathedral Rock is better than this!  Nov/81.</climb><climb
        extra="" grade="14" length="10m"
        name="Working In a Cod Mine">The obvious corner on the left-hand side of the main wall.  Layback and jam the corner.  Watch out for the difficult exit at the top!  Nov/81.</climb><climb
        extra="" grade="24" length="8m"
        name="Shark Attack">This is the direct finish to Lost at Sea.  Climb the wall to the second bolt, then keep going (crux).  The crux section is well protected and takes some figuring out.  With familiarity some climbs become remarkably easy - this is not one of them.  You'll not find a less committing lead at the grade.  Justin Kennedy.</climb><climb
        extra="" grade="21" length="8m"
        name="Lost at Sea">Halfway between Working in a Cod Mine and Floating Riot are two bolts.  Climb directly up the wall to the second bolt.  Traverse off to easier rock to finish.  Although a good climb, the direct finish as Shark Attack is recommended.</climb><climb
        extra="" grade="21" length="8m" name="Dead Memories" new="false"
        number=""
        stars="">Just left of Floating Riot is a beginner's corner.  Unfortunately, halfway up it evolves into an expert's epic.  Climb the corner, the groove, and finally the unlikely looking face. May be a bit harder than 21.</climb><climb
        extra="" grade="21" length="8m"
        name="Floating Riot">This climb has been known as The Ultimate Answer, Brain Damage and Floating Riot - although a good climb one name should be sufficient!  Start just left of the small (and dangerously flaky) cave.  Ascend the wall right of the corner to a dubious looking bolt (rumour has it that the bolt is fairly long so a sufficient portion of it penetrates the rock).  Continue with difficulty up the corner to another bolt and a rest.  Either move straight up (preferable) or escape right to easier ground.  C.Maddock, Feb/85.</climb><climb
        extra="" grade="20" length="10m"
        name="Righthand Arete">On the extreme right-hand end of the main wall is an overhanging arete.  Climb it.
An excellent boulder traverse can be made from the right-hand side of the flaky cave to Working in a Cod Mine.  The initial moves through the cave are a bit fragile but it adds to the fun!</climb><climb
        extra="" grade="16" length="13m" name="Rabbit Shit">Most climbers would consider a crack filled with lagomorph excrement to be rather undesirable.  So is this climb!  The climb ascends the filthy crack around the corner and about 5m right of Floating Riot.  If the climb kept to the thin finger crack on the left it might be worth doing.  But the bottom third of the corner/crack is trivial, the middle section is alright, and the top section is reminiscent of the bowels of the earth (caving!).  Nov/81.</climb></guide>