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<guide><text class="heading1" new="false"
number="null.">Gunner's Quoin</text><text class="Editor"
new="false"
number="null.">by Roger Parkyn & Matt Perchard, originally published in Craglets.</text><text
class="text" new="false"
number="null.">This cliff has acquired quite a reputation for being a pile of choss. As well as a lot of choss there are also some good climbs though; mostly in the grade 19 to 22 region. The climbing is on dolerite but it does provide a good alternative to the Pipes as it is lot sunnier and is at a much lower altitude.
Because of the presence of loose rock and absence of good easy climbs it is not a good place for beginners or groups.
To get the crag you must cross private land so it is important that climbers respect the wishes of the landowners, as access could potentially be a problem. The landowners are Denis Adams (in the house at the end of the road) and Bob Hunt (who owns the land most typically crossed by climbers). Give Bob a phone-call before you go as, naturally enough, he likes to know when people are crossing his land and who they are. He isn't happy about school groups using the crag, partly because of the additional volume of traffic. Presumably this won't be a problem as this crag is quite inappropriate and dangerous for inexperienced groups (Rocky Tom is much better). As Gunners has always been a crag of interest to enthusiasts only, numbers have been small which has probably helped maintain access.
To get there drive north up the East Derwent Hwy 6.2km from the Bowen Bridge to Baskerville Rd (not signposted, see the map in the Monkeys Bum section). Drive up this for 1.9km until where a side road leads off to the right. It is marked with a sign "Private Road, Allen, Pullen etc.". After 1.6km the cliff will begin to loom above you, it's dark foreboding walls of choss sending shudders through your bones. Stop near the gate with the heavy chain, and walk from here, up the road past the chained gate. After a couple of hundred meters there is a sign saying "No Admittance", head left towards the cliff.
</text><image
new="false" noPrint="false" number="null." src="Monkeys_Map.PNG"
width="800">null</image><climb extra="13B" grade="24"
length="35m" name="Teen Spirit" new="false" number=""
stars="***">Way up left of the other climbs described, on a white patch of rock visible from the highway. Climb the face and roof to DBB. Nick Hancock, Doug McConnell, Roger Parkyn, Sarah Hedges Nov 03.
</climb><text
class="text">The first routes described are on The Unlevel Playing Field; a buttress of solid looking rock 100m left of South Face and about 50m above ground level. Access is possible by scrambling up the gully leading left from the left edge of South Face. A bolted rap chain at the top of the large gully (just below the lunch boulder and to its south) facilitates an easy descent.</text><climb
extra="" grade="18" length="25m"
name="Economic Irrationalist">Start about 10m left of Man of the Moon. Scrambling for about 12m leads to the base of a hand crack. The hand crack is about 2m right of the medium sized gum that appears to be growing out of the rock half way up the cliff. Roger Parkyn, Apr/93.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="18" length="20m"
name="Man of the Moon">Start at the left end on the front face of the buttress. Climb the long outstanding corner crack, with a small roof to finish. Peter Steane.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="19" length="24m"
name="Hoons of the Baskerville">Follow the crack-line up the middle of the front of the buttress. At half height, pass a small overhang (crux) then follow the superb finger/hand crack above to easier ground. Roger Parkyn, Aug/91.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="23" length="24m"
name="The Unlevel Playing Field"
stars=" * ">A fine and varied route. Start up the hand crack left of the arete that rises above the col (and lunch boulder). When the crack peters out move right to the arete and clip the first of two bolts. This is where the fun starts. The crux is right at the end. Roger Parkyn, 1991.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="17" length="20m"
name="No Comment">Take the crack line left of the chimney. The start is steep. Further up the crack widens from hand size to off width. Thankfully the off width is not too tricky.</climb><text
class="text">The wall behind Slope Buttress is known as the South Face. It is probably the best piece of rock on the cliff and is divided into an upper and lower section by a ledge at half height. The climbs on the lower tier are described first. Descent from these routes is usually best made by abseil.</text><climb
extra="" grade="19" length="30m"
name="Smack">Scramble up to the left of Jammin for De Lord to belay beside a large charred stump. Climb the crack above to a corner and then a roof to finish. Pull around left on jams, then belay on the large ledge (alternatively it is possible to avoid this overhang by passing to its left, making the climb one or two grades easier). To descend, move around to the left to find a suitable rap tree. Doug Fife.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="25" length="35m" name="Malvern Star"
stars=" * ">Natural gear to the bulge followed by three hangered bolts and more gear if you want it. Evan Peacock, Sep/94.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="21" length="17m"
name="Jammin for De Lord">Finger-lock up the crack just left of Illegal Use of an Opiate. Gerry Narkowicz, Feb/85.
Illegal Use of an Opiate 17m 14
This is the crack directly below the abseil tree. Pleasant jamming with good pro. Phil Steane (solo).</climb><climb
extra="" grade="22" length="17m" name="Reefer Madness"
stars=" * ">Start at the same place as Illegal Use of an Opiate but go rightwards into the corner which is capped by a roof at 5m. The climbing is superb; intellectual as much as physical. Rap off the tree. Doug Fife.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="22" length="17m" name="I Need a New Drug"
stars=" * ">The face climb just right of Reefer Madness. Bolts were added in '92 to facilitate a direct finish (still being worked on!). These bolts help make the original route leadable although wires and small CDs are still required. TR Evan Peacock, Aug/82.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="27" length="40m" name="MDMA"
stars=" * ">Evan Peacock,93?.</climb><climb extra="" grade="22"
length="30m"
name="In a Different Light">An excellent route. Climb up the big black streak below a bulge. There is a bolt under the bulge. Continue up for 5m past another bolt. Finish either to the left to a large ledge or directly through another bulge (or step right and rap off the anchor for Falling Shakes). Evan Peacock, Jul/85.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="25" length="25m"
name="Falling Shakes and Plummeting Sundaes"
stars=" ** ">In Grant's words "easily the best climb in Hobart". Yeah, we've heard that before but the lad has found a real gem here. Very sustained, very techo and not easy. Follow the line of bolts to a bolted rap anchor. Grant Rowbottom, Apr/93.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="20" length="35m"
name="Interstate">Start down below the jammed block beneath Deep End. Follow the broken corner to join Deep End at about 10m. From here move left and climb the thin crack and wall (crux). Continue up the corner. Steve Hamilton, Sep/91.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="20" length="35m"
name="Highway">Climb the wall 1.5m right of the small pillar above Interstate (no pro') then step left onto the pillar. Climb the shallow crack for 3m, traverse left to a groove line then up to a large tree. Steve Hamilton, Sep/91.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="18" length="25m" name="Deep End"
stars=" * ">Classic crack cranking (mostly hand sized) on the wall left of House of Fun. The crux is stepping right to gain the steep finishing cracks. A rap chain beside the top of this climb provides an easy descent for this, and the next four routes. Ian Lewis, 1974.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="18" length="25m" name="House of Fun"
stars=" * ">Don't be put off by the grass and vegetation, as this is a fine route despite appearances. Climb up cracks then crank through the steep juggy zone at half height (to the right of the most prominent overhang on the wall). The finishing crack has a thorny bush growing in it but this is easily by-passed. Phil Steane.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="18" length="25m"
name="Silly Buggers">Even more vegetated than House of Fun. Climb the crack. Follow the crack up the wall/corner. Pete Steane.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="21" length="25m"
name="Don't Look Now">If you want to do the boulder problem start it is advisable to scramble up to the base of Magic Number and place some gear in the horizontal break at 3m. From the break climb up the arete to a bolt (gear can be placed in the crack on the left). The crux is climbing up the arete near the bolt.
Evan Peacock, Jun/86.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="20" length="23m" name="Magic Number"
stars=" * ">Technical (but non-strenuous) climbing makes this an interesting route. It is well protected although skinny camming machines are handy. Climb the corner to a ledge, then continue to the main horizontal ledge system another 5m up, using the right crack (the one without the tree). Doug Fife.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="22" length="23m" name="Down to Zero"
stars=" * ">A fine corner line. Clipping the fixed peg at about 4m provides most of the difficulties. An easy but pleasant finish leads to the ledge which crosses the cliff. Doug Fife.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="23" length="20m" name="Infidels"
stars=" * ">Excellent face climbing between Down to Zero and No Dams. Some good RP runners (if you think there are such things, Ed.) and a fixed peg (to the right) protect the lower section. When you reach the micro-overhang a metre or two past the peg, start moving rightwards to easier ground. Evan Peacock, Jun/84.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="12" length="20m"
name="No Dams">Up the main corner to a ramp. C.Dawson, 1974.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="21" length="20m" name="Short Memory"
stars=" * ">Climb directly up the wall to the immediate right of No Dams. Thankfully it has recently been retro-bolted by Evan but a large friend would still be handy near the top. Evan Peacock, Jun/84.</climb><text
class="text">And on the upper tier of the South Face is ...</text><climb
extra="" grade="19" length="25m"
name="Love is a Drug">Start from the ledge where House of Fun finishes. It is hardest at the bottom. Start behind the small tree. Climb up the face to a small ledge then move right into a crack. Climb up this until it starts to overhang, then move right again to finish. S.Eberhard, V.Wong, May/91.</climb><text
class="text">Editors note: This climb is included for historical reference only. Anyone else naming climbs with such outlandishly pukish names will not see it published in this fine piece of literature. Try Mills & Boon.</text><climb
extra="" grade="25" length="28m"
name="Trendy Dinosaur">Start at the chains at the top of House of Fun. Climb the crack and through the roof on very thin holds (crux). Editor's note: I have some doubts about the description re location. Volker Jurisch, Nov/93.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="16" length="25m"
name="Cold Duck">This is the continuation of No Dams. Chimney bridge and jam up the side of a large pillar. Step right onto the top of the pillar then finish up the easy corner. C.Dawson, 1974.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="16" length="25m"
name="The Grump">This route takes the corner line between the large block overhangs up and right of No Dams. Step right onto the arete at the top of the corner. Tricky route finding to the top. Protection is a bit thin, but good. D.Bowman, 1976.</climb><text
class="text">Slope Buttress is the small outcrop which stands out in front of the crag. It is the first piece of rock you will reach when walking in to the crag. The following three climbs are on it's front face. The South End lines are behind this buttress and to the left.</text><climb
extra="" grade="21" length="20m"
name="Body Blow">Start 3m left of Trap Door. Climb up to a rib of rock on the left side of the small overhang at 3m height. Pass the next overhang on the left then clip the first of two bolts. Move right to climb the prow of the buttress. The crux, passing the second bolt, is interesting and technical. Small CDs are useful in horizontals. Hamish Jackson 1992. Direct version 23?</climb><climb
extra="" grade="15" length="20m" name="Trap Door" new="false"
number=""
stars="">Start up the chimney behind a pillar to reach a ledge at about 8m. Climb the body crack above this through a small roof. Move right to finish up the crack left of Slope Face. Ian Lewis, 1974. </climb><climb
extra="" grade="17" length="20m" name="Slope Face" new="false"
number=""
stars="">Climb a broken blocky corner to a ledge. Finish up the good clean hand crack on right wall. Ian Lewis, 1974.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="17" length="15m"
name="Slope Head">Fine corner climbing despite being slightly dirty. Excellent gear. Ian Lewis, 1974.
To the right of Slope Buttress and in the gully is a slightly smaller face. This has just a solitary line on it.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="13" length="15m"
name="Mixed Emotions">This route starts in the gully on the right of Slope Buttress and is on the wall opposite it. The route can be recognised as it follows three parallel cracks going straight upwards. Phil Steane (solo).
To the right of South Face and Slope Buttress the cliff becomes even more inhospitable. About 80m further on and behind a large white gum tree are a couple of short lines.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="15" length="12m"
name="Quadriceps">Climb straight up the left-hand line (hand crack) of the two parallel cracks. Quite strenuous. Mick Steane, 1976.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="13" length="12m"
name="Hamstring">The crack 2m right of Quadriceps which involves one wide section. Mick Steane, 1976.</climb><text
class="text">There are also some routes on the left end of the quoin (ie quite a long way from the routes described in this chapter so far). I have no info that is of good enough quality to publish on these routes. Apparently there is even a cliff there with route initials at the bottom of it. Thorough info on these routes would be appreciated for future editions.</text><text
class="text" new="false" number="null.">This cliff has acquired quite a reputation for being a pile of choss. As well as a lot of choss there are also some good climbs though; mostly in the grade 19 to 22 region. The climbing is on dolerite but it does provide a good alternative to the Pipes as it is lot sunnier and is at a much lower altitude.
Because of the presence of loose rock and absence of good easy climbs it is not a good place for beginners or groups.
To get the crag you must cross private land so it is important that climbers respect the wishes of the landowners, as access could potentially be a problem. The landowners are Denis Adams (in the house at the end of the road) and Bob Hunt (who owns the land most typically crossed by climbers). Give Bob a phone-call before you go as, naturally enough, he likes to know when people are crossing his land and who they are. He isn't happy about school groups using the crag, partly because of the additional volume of traffic. Presumably this won't be a problem as this crag is quite inappropriate and dangerous for inexperienced groups (Rocky Tom is much better). As Gunners has always been a crag of interest to enthusiasts only, numbers have been small which has probably helped maintain access.
To get there drive north up the East Derwent Hwy 6.2km from the Bowen Bridge to Baskerville Rd (not signposted, see the map in the Monkeys Bum section). Drive up this for 1.9km until where a side road leads off to the right. It is marked with a sign "Private Road, Allen, Pullen etc.". After 1.6km the cliff will begin to loom above you, it's dark foreboding walls of choss sending shudders through your bones. Stop near the gate with the heavy chain, and walk from here, up the road past the chained gate. After a couple of hundred meters there is a sign saying "No Admittance", head left towards the cliff.
</text></guide>
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