<guide> <text class="heading1">Lost World </text> <text class="text">Background Information </text> <text class="text">Rock: Dolerite columns up to 30m high. </text> <text class="text">Aspect: Lost World is located on the eastern side of Mount Arthur and being relatively sheltered, is often warmer than the Pipes. </text> <text class="text">Access: About 9.5km drive from Fern Tree a prominent sweeping bend turns back on itself. This is Big Bend complete with small carpark. Great views of Lost World open up as you drive the last km (also New World and Test World) to the bend. Cross the road and the small creek and follow a muddy track for about 50m. For the LH end of the cliff, take the small track off to the R (sometimes a small cairn) and follow the faint track then yellow paint splots through trees for about 10 mins to a boulder field and on to the top of the cliff. For the RH end, , don't turn off R but continue on along the track (red markers) for about 15mins which leads round then down to the RH end of the cliff. </text> <text class="text">Decent: There is a bolted rap station at the top of Lactos, near the centre of the cliff. To find it, follow the yellow paint splodges to the cliff edge and head back L (north) along the cliff edge for about 50m. The bolts are at the L end of a reasonably obvious ledge, by a small tree. If you can not locate it, go back to the marked trail and follow the paint spots down the steep gully that comes out at the base of Lost World at the LH end between Incredible Journey and CC,s. Descent using the central gully is not recommended - it is loose, muddy and slippery. Nuff said. </text> <text class="text">To access the RH end of the cliff, scramble down the gully near the end of the cliff line. </text> <text class="text">NB: climbs are described L to R. </text> <text class="text">climbing Info: Nearly 50 routes, a mixture of trad and bolted, up to Grade 29 Known for the steep and relentless nature of the climbing. Mainly crack but now some stunning arêtes and walls as well. </text> <climb name="Dig For Fire" stars="" grade="21" length="18m" extra="">The direct start to Good Behaviour. climb the awkward tight hand crack straight up past the bush and into the easier Good Behaviour line. O. Prall, R. Parkyn, Jan. 1992. </climb> <climb name="Good Behaviour" stars="**" grade="18" length="25m" extra="">If you're not on your best behaviour, you might get spanked! About 25m L of the southern descent gully, are a pair of twin cracks with a 4m high rock finger leaning against the wall. The RH flake crack on the arête above ends at 10m. Chimney up the back of the rock finger and climb to the top of the RH crack. Undercling L to the hand crack, which is followed to the top. E. Peacock, A. Herington, Sep.1982. </climb> <climb name="Electric Chair" stars="*" grade="19" length="20m" extra="">A steep fist crack that takes the next line L of Incredible Journey. Up the thin crack t o a small roof at 3m, turn it on its R to a ledge. Jam the crack past a small wedge shaped chockstone, to an offwidth move near the top. A. Herington, E. Peacock, Sep.1982. </climb> <climb name="Incredible Journey" stars="" grade="18" length="10m" extra="">Just L of the descent gully is a short steep handcrack in a shallow groove. climb the crack past an awkward move to the top. D. Stephenson, N. Deka, 1989. </climb> <climb name="CC's" stars="*" grade="22" length="20m" extra="">On the R arête of the descent gully is a thin line that goes through a bulge and up the L edge of the prominent slab. Wires in the thin crack are good and the problem is best tackled by climbing the arête. From the top of the slab follow the easy yellow corner to top. Alternative start: Enchilada (15) climb the big corner in the descent gully L of CC's to join up with the yellow corner. D. Gray, R. Parkyn, Jan. 1992. </climb> <climb name="Tacho" stars="" grade="20" length="20m" extra="">The original route on the prominent slab 2m R of CC's. climb to the L of the stepped rooves, up a thin crack, to below a bulge. Face climb up the L side of the bulge to the small stance on top. Straight up the slab over the horizontal seam to the top (protect with a pin or a small camming unit) M. Law, G. Child, K. Carrigan, 1978. </climb> <climb name="Black Cherry" stars="*" grade="20" length="25m" extra="">Two metres L of Face It is a vegetated fist crack. Start 1m L of the crack as for Tacho and climb up trending R past the stepped rooves. Reach R into the crack to place pro before bridging and laying away up past the bulge on Tacho. Once back in the crack, continue to the top finishing as for Face It. A. Herington, E. Peacock, Oct. 1982. </climb> <climb name="Face It" stars="**" grade="20" length="25m" extra="">The crack 4m R of Black Cherry and immediately L of a hugely vegetated corner. climb the crack past two blocky ledges to just below the base of a small vee groove near the top. Hand traverse L and finish up a short crack. M. Law, G. Child, S. Parsons, Feb 1978. </climb> <climb name="Quarryman" stars="" grade="18" length="25m" extra="">The twin cracks between Face It and Play Dirty. An epic clean on lead. K. Robinson, Aug. 1999. </climb> <climb name="Play Dirty" stars="*" grade="23" length="25m" extra="">The lightly vegetated thin flared crack 5m R of the vegetated corner. climb the crack and the shallow corner above. G. Child, K. Carrigan, 1978. </climb> <climb name="Metal Mania" stars="**" grade="24" length="16m" extra="">Crank up the blunt arête between Play dirty and Glam. Five BR's. R. Parkyn, Feb. 1992. </climb> <climb name="Glam" stars="**" grade="19" length="17m" extra="">The hand crack 6m around the arête R of Play Dirty and 25m L of Atlantis. This is the far L hand line in the semi-circle of buttresses L of Atlantis and has a short diagonal finger crack near the top. Hand jam to a small ledge. Pull up on face holds, then follow the finger crack to the top. Phil Steane, Pete Steane, Sep. 1982. </climb> <climb name="The Space Of Disse" stars="" grade="22" length="10m" extra="Þ">The discontinuous thin crack 5m around the arête L of Atlantis. Up the sustained crack to the horizontal then rap off at the bolt. O. Prall, Jan. 1992. </climb> <climb name="Atlantis" stars="***" grade="21" length="25m" extra="Þ">This is not the best crack climb on the mountain but it is pretty darn good. L of Savage Journey is a dirty corner chimney and L of this is a fine looking north facing crackline passing between rooves. climb the crack through various widths with the crux just below the top. J. Friend, Jan. 1975. </climb> <climb name="Savage Journey" stars="**" grade="22" length="30m" extra="Þ">A classic test piece for the crack enthusiast, not for the faint hearted. On the gently overhanging wall R of Atlantis are two cracks, take the LH line. climb the steep and ever widening crack past a small bush at 6m. Hand and fist jam all the way. H. Barber, Apr. 1975. </climb> <climb name="Cruise Air" stars="*" grade="22" length="30m" extra="Þ">The RH crack on the slightly overhanging wall R of Atlantis. climb the steep cracks, moving R at the obvious transition. Follow the crack to the top, which becomes offwidth. P. Bigg, S. Parsons, Apr. 1982. </climb> <climb name="Cheshire Cat" stars="***" grade="25" length="25m" extra="Þ">The hardest dolerite route on the mountain to date (Dec 2006). The arête L of Lactos and R of Cruise Air. K. Robinson, Jan. 2004. </climb> <climb name="Lactos" stars="*" grade="20" length="22m" extra="Þ">The thin crack immediately L of a chimney just around the arête R of Cruise Air. climb the steep crack line to a small ledge. Continue up a short corner to the top. Hard anyway for the grade but harder still if you don't use the R wall of the chimney. U-bolt rap station at the top located here. S. Parsons, P. Bigg, Apr. 1982. </climb> <climb name="GP Project" stars="" grade="22" length="22m" extra="">Garry Phillips (206) project immediately R of the abseil line, </climb> <climb name=" Carhookia" stars="*" grade="26" length="20m" extra="Þ">Start 3m R of the bottom of Lactos (where the abseil lands you). Optional natural gear at the bottom then 4 bolts to a lower-off. N. Selby, 2000. </climb> <climb name="Heavenly Head Job" stars="" grade="19" length="20m" extra="">The fourth line L of Stone the Crows. The strange looking corner capped with a roof 7m R of Lactos. Bridge and jam the corner which becomes progressively harder. Hand jam the roof, step out L (awkward) and continue to the top. Phil Steane, Sep. 1982. </climb> <climb name="Stone The Crows" stars="*" grade="18" length="25m" extra="">A popular route, found 10m L of the central descent gully, and marked by a conspicuous clean offwidth crack. climb the short steep wall (crux, difficult to protect) and continue up the wide crack above until a ledge is reached. climb either of the two cracks to reach the top. L. Closs, I. Lewis, Mar. 1973. </climb> <climb name="Cloaca" stars="" grade="15" length="8m" extra="">On the southern wall of the descent gully. climb the hands to off width crack. D. Gray, Jan. 1992. </climb> <climb name="Drayton" stars="" grade="21" length="17m" extra="">Starts via the bolts on Back on the Borderline and moves L and stems up the corner. Contrived. D. Gray, Jan. 1992. </climb> <climb name="Back On The Borderline" stars="" grade="20" length="17m" extra="">Start on the northern wall of the descent gully, about 5m L of Commoner's Crown. climb the wall past 2 BRs, then finish up the handcrack. D. Gray, Nov. 1990. </climb> <climb name="Naked Flame" stars="" grade="23" length="17m" extra="">The arête 2m R of Back on the Borderline. Follow the line of 4 BRs up avoiding the tempting step onto the L wall. The third clip is pretty tenuous. D. Gray, Jan. 1992. </climb> <climb name="Commoners Crown" stars="" grade="17" length="25m" extra="">The hand crack on the R hand side of the descent gully. Jam to a large ledge and follow the often damp corner to the top. K. Kiernan, K. McConnell, Dec. 1975. </climb> <climb name="Cries And Whispers" stars="*" grade="19" length="25m" extra="">The front of the buttress on the R of the descent gulIy. Hand jam to an awkward rest on a small stance between twin cracks. Follow the LH crack (crux) to the large ledge. Finish as for Commoners Crown. K. Lindorff, K. McConnell, Jan. 1976. </climb> <climb name="Minstrel In The Gallery" stars="" grade="19" length="15m" extra="">15m R of the descent gully, twin cracks with an overhang halfway up the cliff. Jam the cleaner (it is still often slippery .) RH crack. R. Muhlen, B. Kennedy, K. McConnell, Jan. 1977. </climb> <climb name="Blood On The Racks" stars="*" grade="21" length="20m" extra="">The short, thin crack a few metres L of Lost Wanderer. Up the crack past a thin section to a ledge. Continue L of the ledge easily to the top. K. Kiernan, S. Karpiniec, K. McConnell Dec. 1975. FFA: S. Parsons, D. Fife, P. Biggs, L. Sheppard, Jan. 1982. </climb> <climb name="Technicolour Zawn" stars="" grade="12" length="15m" extra="">The easy chimney/flake with the bush immediately R of Blood on the Racks. Phil Steane (solo), Jan. 1983. </climb> <climb name="Lost Wanderer" stars="***" grade="18" length="25m" extra="">The wall with two horizontal breaks about 50m R of the central descent gully. climb the short crack on the L, traverse R on the horizontal breaks into the main crack, and follow this to the top. Direct start: From the fallen block at the base climb directly up the front of the buttress (difficult to protect) to join the main crack. I. Lewis, K. Carrigan, Apr. 1974. Direct start: L. Closs, Jul. 1975. </climb> <climb name="Wander No More" stars="" grade="21" length="25m" extra="">The crack on the R side of the arête below Lost Wanderer. Finish up Lost Wanderer from about half height. D. Gray, Jan. 1992. </climb> <climb name="Gargamell" stars="**" grade="28" length="20m" extra="">The arête R of Lost Wanderer. Delicately powerful moves with an engaging crux, Bolted. FFA A. Williams Jan 2004 </climb> <climb name="Hurricane" stars="" grade="14" length="27m" extra="">15m R of Lost Wanderer, around the corner, is an obvious chimney with three large chockstones. Chimney and jam to the top. Basil Rathbone, R. Roffe, Feb. 1976. </climb> <climb name="Great Southern Land" stars="**" grade="21" length="20m" extra="">The corner with twin cracks above a scrubby ledge 15m R of Hurricane and around the arête L of Dyazide. Solo up past the scrub and onto the ledge and belay. Bridge and jam the twin cracks, finishing up the LH crack. Phil Steane, Pete Steane, Oct. 1982. FFA: G. Cooper, A. Adams, Feb. 1986. </climb> <climb name="Endorphine" stars="**" grade="26" length="20m" extra="">The arête to the L of Dyazide and R of Great Southern Land. K. Robinson, Jan. 2004 </climb> <climb name="Dyazide" stars="*" grade="17" length="12m" extra="">The distinctive north facing crack starting from a ledge halfway up the cliff, L of a wide corner. Scramble up to the ledge from the R. Jam the hand crack to an awkward rest in the sentry box, exit up the finger crack (crux). P. Bigg, S. Parsons, D.Fife, 1982. </climb> <climb name="Don't Eat Yellow Snow" stars="" grade="25" length="15m" extra="">This old aid line is now free and makes for some good climbing. The second crack L of Adolf Builds A Bonfire and the third line R of Dyazide. The thin crack up the striped wall. climb the crack with increasing difficulty. Small camming units required. Phil Steane, et al, Apr. 1983 FFA: M. Jackson, Feb. 1995. </climb> <climb name="Adolf Builds A Bonfire" stars="" grade="18" length="15m" extra="">The big corner L of Opportunity. Up the small slab then jam the corner. Phil Steane, A. Adams, Jan. 1983. </climb> <climb name="Opportunity" stars="*" grade="20" length="15m" extra="">Much to gain, so little pain. The overhung crack and sentry box 6m L of World Wide Adventure. climb the crack past the sentry box to the sloping ledge at the top. The move onto the ledge is awkward. A. Adams, Phil Steane, Mar. 1983. </climb> <climb name="World Wide Adventure" stars="" grade="18" length="22m" extra="">The L facing corner below a scrubby ledge 15m L of Rosy Pink Cadillac. A prominent gum tree is growing out of the top crack. Layback corner, cross the ledge, jam to the gum tree (crux) and finish up the final groove. Phil Steane, N. Ward, Mar. 1983. </climb> <climb name="Money In The Bank" stars="" grade="21" length="12m" extra="">A safe investment. (1) 8m (21) climb the seam on the wall L of the Rosy Pink Cadillac offwidth. (2) 14m (12) Layback the large loose flake cautiously, finishing easily behind the buttress. (1) N. Ward, Phil Steane. (2) C. Maddock, Phil Steane, Apr. 1983. FFA: E. Peacock, 1983. </climb> <climb name="Rosy Pink Cadillac" stars="***" grade="23" length="25m" extra="">An old aid line gone free, following a thin crack up the front of the last major buttress on the R end of the cliff, L of Agent Orange Sunset. climb the offwidth on the L then step R into the finger crack (bolt). At its top swing around L to finish. Direct start (25) climb directly up past a bolt runner to the finger crack. M. McHugh, R. McMahon, 1971. FFA: M. Law, 1978. Direct start: S. Parsons, P. Bigg, D. Fife, Feb. 1983. </climb> <climb name="Agent Orange Sunset" stars="**" grade="19" length="20m" extra="">Unique and weird. Do it for the entertainment value. Tackles the prominent diagonal L leaning flake at the R end of the cliff. Struggle up the offwidth chimney 3m L of Paladin until you can traverse out L at the flake. Move up the flake to a roof, swing L around the arête and finish up an easy chimney. Phil Steane, Nov. 1982. </climb> <climb name="Paladin" stars="*" grade="17" length="16m" extra="">The short, steep, and slightly dirty hand crack at the far R of the cliff, just R of Agent Orange Sunset. Jam the crack. P. Morris, P. Cullen, Jan. 1977. </climb> <text class="heading1">New World </text> <text class="text">Background Stuff </text> <text class="text">Rock: Dolerite, up to 15m high, slightly off vertical </text> <text class="text">Access: This little crag, visible from the bend below the Chalet, is ten minutes walk from Lost World. To get there either walk down from the northern end of Lost World along the top and rap off to reach the base, or follow a well marked and defined track that starts off the edge of the horizontal columns directly out from Savage Journey (a conspicuous route at Lost World) and contour round to the north. </text> <text class="text">climbing Info: 13 routes, mostly bolted , offers a varied selection of cracks and bolted faces. Routes are described L to R and virtually all have initialled starts. Note: The BR's used here will not take the newer R angle RP brackets. </text> <climb name="Cranky Girl" stars="*" grade="24" length="10m" extra=""> </climb> <text class="text">The bolted arête on the next column L of Dvorak Goes Metal. A. Williams, Jan. 2002 </text> <climb name="Dvorak Goes Metal" stars="**" grade="20" length="12m" extra="">The route follows the superb looking arête 20m L of Friends With Cameras for Eyes. Scramble to the base of the arête then launch onto the arête proper. Three bolts protect the excellent face climbing above. R. Parkyn, Apr. 1991. </climb> <climb name="Friends With Cameras for Eyes" stars="*" grade="16" length="15m" extra="">This route about 3m L of Catcher in the Rye. A few bouldery moves lead to a twin crack system. O. Prall, May 1991. </climb> <climb name="Catcher In The Rye" stars="" grade="15" length="16m" extra="">Hand jam to two blocks and a bush. Continue up the crack above until a traverse L across the wall to a horn can be made, to avoid an offwidth crack. Finish up the hand crack R of the arête. Phil Steane, R. deCesare, Nov. 1982. </climb> <climb name="Quintessence of Clarity" stars="*" grade="20" length="15m" extra="">The face/arête just L of Pinkinsane. climb the face or arête behind the myrtle to the BR (run out). Continue past the difficulties (crux) until it eases. Ascend easily and then finish with moves of varying degrees of difficulty. (2 BR's) Pro can be arranged in Pinkinsane to avoid initial runout. M. Perchard, May. 1991 </climb> <climb name="Pinkinsane" stars="" grade="16" length="16m" extra="">Jam the fist crack just R of the above route, terminating in an easy chimney. Phil Steane, R. deCesare, Nov. 1982. </climb> <climb name="Would Jesus Play Guitar in a Thrash Metal Band" stars="*" grade="24" length="15m" extra="">Rewarding and technical. Start 1m R of Pinkinsane. climb the face past two bolts on thin layaway holds (crux). Continue up the handcrack which begins at 7m. O. Prall, Apr. 1991. </climb> <climb name="Procol Harum" stars="*" grade="15" length="16m" extra="">Hand jam the line 4m R of Pinkinsane finishing up a short slab on the L. Phil Steane, R. deCesare, Nov. 1982. </climb> <climb name="Toxastoma par Exellance" stars="**" grade="23" length="15m" extra="">A sustained and technical climb (if you stay on route) which climbs the face between Procol and Tales of Power. Using small holds and both arêtes climb to the base of the layback. Up this then move L (crux) to a finger crack. Up this for 3m, then finish back R up the blank wall above. (4 BR's) M. Perchard, Apr. 1991 </climb> <climb name="Tales Of Power" stars="*" grade="17" length="16m" extra="">A thin start, followed by hand and pleasant offwidth jams. The line 2m R of Procol. Phil Steane, R. deCesare, Nov. 1982. </climb> <climb name="Semi Detached Reality" stars="" grade="16" length="16m" extra="">Steep hand jams, followed by a traverse into the LH line. The crack 4m R of Tales of Power that splits into two half way up. Phil Steane, R. deCesare, Nov. 1982. </climb> <climb name="Parkynsane" stars="" grade="20" length="20m" extra="">Starts just R of Semi Detached Reality. A wandering beginning leads to a thin crack near the R hand edge of the high orange wall. climb the crack and arête just to the R. Well protected. R. Parkyn, Apr. 1991. </climb> <climb name="Barbwire Canoe" stars="" grade="6 " length="16m" extra="">The easy corner just R of the main cliff, finishing with a desperate move. Phil Steane, R. deCesare, Nov. 1982. </climb> <text class="heading1">Test World </text> <text class="text">Background Information </text> <text class="text">Rock: Dolerite face, about 15m high. </text> <text class="text">Access: Located 150m to the south of Lost World, at the same altitude. From Good Behaviour head L and down around a rock spur then back uphill to reach the crag. Alternatively a direct approach from the top is less scrubby and is taken as an offshoot from the usual route into Lost World. </text> <text class="text">climbing Info: This boutique crag faces the Organ Pipes and is split by only 4 lines, the RH of which is vegetated with tea tree. Again, climbs are described from L to R. </text> <climb name="Six Months In A Leaky Test Tube" stars="" grade="17" length="15m" extra="">The LH line. Start behind the scrub and continue up the leftward trending crack. Phil Steane, G. Cooper,1982. </climb> <climb name="Testing One Two Three" stars="" grade="14" length="15m" extra="">The chimney, second from the L, with a big chockstone at half height. Phil Steane, G. Cooper,1982. </climb> <climb name="My Mother Was A Test Tube" stars="" grade="17" length="15m" extra="">The third crack with the awkward looking start. Up the crack to the ledge and continue easily to top. G. Cooper, Phil Steane, 1982. </climb> <text class="heading1">Roadside Buttress </text> <text class="text">Background Information </text> <text class="text">Rock: Dodgy dolerite, 25m high. </text> <text class="text">Access: Situated 600m up the road from the Chalet. The climbing potential at this crag was severely impaired when the main section was demolished in order to re site the road after a landslide in 1961. climbing Info: What remains today offers little though a small number of easy routes are possible. Only one route has been described. </text> <climb name="Y=1/1+X)" stars="*" grade="16" length="24m" extra="">On the buttress to the L of the main Roadside Buttress. Start L of an easy chimney on the prow of the buttress. Up on small holds to the start of a curving crack. Up this, then climb to below a straight crack. Mantelshelf about one metre to the R of the crack, then follow it to the top. L. Closs, I. Lewis, Nov. 1973. </climb> </guide> |