<?xml version="1.0" encoding="UTF-8"?> <guide><text class="heading1">Articles</text> <text class="text" new="false" number="null.">This page contains articles on Jamming and English grades.</text> <text class="heading2">Jamming on Dolerite by Ian Snape </text><text class="text">For those finely honed athletes, body sculpted in the gym, but daunted by the prospect of 'the jam', here is a simple chart to aid progression through the art. </text><text class="heading3" new="false" number="null.">Pre-school </text><text class="text" new="false" number="null.">Two of the lower graded jam cracks on the Pipes can be found in the Johnstone's Knob area. Gear Freak and Pipedream, both 16, provide a straightforward pre-school in the art. Shelter in the Storm (17), just to the L of Pipedream, also involves the odd jam, but it's possibly under graded </text><text class="heading3">Jamming test pieces </text><climb extra="" grade="17" name="Chasm Wall Centaur " number="1" stars="">The test is whether you chose to jam it at 17, or crimp the crux at 18. If you chose the latter, stop here </climb><climb extra="" grade="19" name="Battle Cruiser " number="2" stars="">One jam that's very difficult to avoid </climb><climb extra="" grade="18" name="Ano's Sojourn " number="3" stars="">This short sustained little test piece is a good intermediate jam test that has seen many failed attempts to layback the crux </climb><climb extra="" grade="19" name="Punk " number="4" stars="">Like Ano's...only more of it. A climb that used to be mostly straight hands in yesteryear, is today a fist jam in places, and is tomorrows offwidth as the column continues to move. Do it now before it moves up the list. </climb><climb extra="" grade="20" name="Icarus " number="5" stars="">What a line. Tape up. </climb><climb extra="" grade="20" length="" name="Opportunity " new="false" number="6 ." stars="">Described in the guide as 'surprising'...a must do before Jam Test #7. </climb><climb extra="" grade="20" name="Tartarus " number="7" stars="">A combination of tricky manoeuvres that requires strength, endurance and the ability to let go to place runners. A climb that commands respect. </climb><climb extra="" grade="20" name="Daedelus " number="8" stars="">An offwidth that is rarely climbed. The first of two Henry Barber routes that have a reputation that is probably well deserved. As intimidating to look at as to lead. </climb><climb extra="" grade="22" name="Savage Journey " number="9" stars="">Best led without cams for that Barber experience. Sustained excellence. </climb><climb extra="" grade="20" name="Galah Performance " number="10" stars="">A magical line full of old school charm. Widely recognized as being high in the grade, this little climb has dished out more spankings than Madam Lash. </climb><text class="text">Generally considered by those experienced in the art to be at least two grades harder to on-sight than Icarus (test #5). </text><text class="text">Congratulations, you have know shown the mental fortitude to jam when it's not needed, you have climbed 'surprising' jams, shown respect and successfully climbed cracks that require strength, endurance and a comprehensive repertoire of jamming techniques. You are now qualified to confidently tackle any of the harder crack climbs on the pipes. </text><text class="heading1">And a comment on Grading... again, from Ian Snape </text><text class="text">For those from the UK who are confused by the cunning simplicity of the single digit Ewbank grading scheme, and prefer complex algebra involving letter and numbers, here is a selected comparison chart with examples to help the transition. </text><climb extra="" grade="21" length="HVS 5c" name="Blood on the Racks " stars="">A few bouldery moves with a runner every 10 cm above your head </climb><climb extra="" grade="21" length="E3.5c" name="Farewell to Arms " stars="">Sustained </climb><climb extra="" grade="19" length="E1.5b/c" name="Malignant Mushroom " new="false" number="" stars="">A tricky move with good protection </climb><climb extra="" grade="20" length="E3.5c/6a" name="Tacho " stars="">A hard move with barely adequate protection - Yorkshire E3 </climb><climb extra="" grade="19" length="E1.5b" name="Just a Little Bit Longer " stars="">Consistent climbing never too far from protection </climb><climb extra="" grade="20" length="E3.5c,5b" name="Icarus " stars="">Sustained and well protected. </climb><climb extra="" grade="18" length="VS5a" name="Incredible Journey " stars="">Short pitch with a few metres of jamming </climb><climb extra="" grade="19" length="E2.5,5a" name="Battle Cruiser " stars="">Sustained and tricky crux </climb><climb extra="" grade="17" length="HVS5a" name="Chancellor Direct " stars="">Delightful </climb><climb extra="" grade="17" length="E2.5b" name="Suzerain " stars="">Not at all like Chancellor </climb><text class="text">The astute pommy climber will note that some climbs graded between 17 and 21 in the comparison table would be given HVS on a UK mountain crag. Well, you don't need to be climbing 17 to experience quality HVS climbing on the pipes. Nefertiti (15), Moonraker (16), and Xenophenese (16) amongst others are also in the region HVS 4c/5a. </text></guide> |