<?xml version="1.0" encoding="UTF-8"?> <guide pagesize="500" version="2"> <header access="About 9.5km drive from Fern Tree a prominent sweeping bend turns back on itself. This is the Big Bend complete with small carpark (GPS MTW300). Great views of Lost World open up as you drive the last km (also New World and Test World) to the bend. There are two ways to the crag. First, cross the road and the small creek and follow a muddy track past a track signpost for about 50m. (1) For the LH (south) end of the cliff, take the narrow track off to the R (track bifurcation marked by a rock with a red spot on either side - sometimes a small cairn as well, GPS MTW310) and follow the faint track then yellow paint splots through trees for about 10 minutes to a boulder field and on to the top of the cliff. (2) For the RH (north) end, don't turn off R but continue on along the track (red markers) past another track signpost for about 15mins which leads round then down to the RH end of the cliff." acknowledgement="" history="" intro="Lost World is located high on the eastern side of Mount Arthur at around 1100m. However, being relatively sheltered, it is often warmer than the Pipes. <br/>There are nearly 50 routes, a mixture of trad and bolted, up to Grade 29. Known for the steep and relentless nature of the climbing. Mainly crack but now some stunning arêtes and walls as well. Most of the early, first generation sports climbs on these cliffs have carrots and no rap stations... take some large hangers. Climbs are described L to R." name="Lost World" rock="Dolerite columns up to 30m high" sun="Morning sun" walk="15 min fairly flat" id="1"/> <text class="indentedHeader" id="2">Descent: There is a bolted rap station at the top of Lactos, near the centre of the cliff. To find it, follow the yellow paint splodges to the cliff edge and head back L (north) along the cliff edge for about 30m. The bolts are at the L end of a reasonably obvious ledge, by a small gum tree (GPS MTW320). If you can not locate it, go back to the marked trail and follow the paint spots down the steep gully (GPS MTW330) that comes out at the base of Lost World at the LH end (South) between Incredible Journey and CC's. For the RH end (North), scramble down the gully near the end of the cliff line, R of Palladin, following the Red Spot path as described in Access. Descent using the central gully is NOT recommended - it is loose, muddy and slippery. Enough said.</text> <gps id="3"><point code="MTW300" description="Lost World car park" easting="518123" height="0" northing="5251918" zone="55G"/><point code="MTW310" description="Start of yellow dot track" easting="518172" height="0" northing="5251964" zone="55G"/><point code="MTW320" description="Lost World rap station - Lactos" easting="518386" height="0" northing="5252058" zone="55G"/><point code="MTW330" description="Lost World southern descent gully" easting="518416" height="0" northing="5252009" zone="55G"/><point code="MTW350" description="New World" easting="518464" height="0" northing="5252302" zone="55G"/><point code="MTW360" description="Start of track for New World (doesn" easting="518402" height="0" northing="5252142" zone="55G"/><point code="MTW370" description="Cairn on way to New World" easting="518478" height="0" northing="5252106" zone="55G"/><point code="MTW380" description="New World - Cranky Girl" easting="518476" height="0" northing="5252282" zone="55G"/><point code="MTW390" description="Test World" easting="518424" height="0" northing="5251928" zone="55G"/><point code="MTW630" description="Micro World" easting="518138" height="0" northing="5252156" zone="55G"/></gps><image src="lost world2.png" width="" id="4">null</image><image src="LostWorldLHPrint.jpg" width="700" id="5">null</image> <climb extra="" grade="21" length="18m" name="Dig For Fire" stars="" id="6" fa="O. Prall, R. Parkyn, Jan 1992.">The direct start to Good Behaviour. Climb the awkward tight hand crack straight up past the bush and into the easier Good Behaviour line. </climb> <climb extra="" grade="18" length="25m" name="Good Behaviour" number="" stars="**" id="7" fa="E. Peacock, A. Herington, Sep 1982.">If you're not on your best behaviour, you might get spanked! About 25m L of the southern descent gully, are a pair of twin cracks with a 4m high rock finger leaning against the wall. The RH flake crack on the arête above ends at 10m. Chimney up the back of the rock finger and climb to the top of the RH crack. Undercling L to the hand crack, which is followed to the top. </climb> <climb extra="" grade="19" length="20m" name="Electric Chair" number="" stars="*" id="8" fa="A. Herington, E. Peacock, Sep 1982.">A steep fist crack that takes the next line L of Incredible Journey. Up the thin crack to a small roof at 3m, turn it on its R to a ledge. Jam the crack past a small wedge shaped chockstone, to an offwidth move near the top. </climb> <climb extra="" grade="17" length="10m" name="Incredible Journey" number="" stars="" id="9" fa="D. Stephenson, N. Deka, 1989.">Just L of the descent gully is a short steep handcrack in a shallow groove. Climb the crack past an awkward move to the top. </climb> <climb extra="" grade="22" length="20m" name="CC's" number="" stars="" id="10" fa="D. Gray, R. Parkyn, Jan 1992.">On the R arête of the descent gully is a thin line that goes through a bulge and up the L edge of the prominent slab. Wires in the thin crack are good and the problem is best tackled by climbing the arête. From the top of the slab follow the easy yellow corner to top. Alternative start: Enchilada (15). Climb the big corner in the descent gully L of CC's to join up with the yellow corner. </climb> <climb extra="" grade="20" length="20m" name="Taco" number="" stars="" id="11" fa="M. Law, G. Child, K. Carrigan, 1978.">The original route on the prominent slab 2m R of CC's. Climb to the L of the stepped roofs, up a thin crack, to below a bulge. Face climb up the L side of the bulge to the small stance on top. Straight up the slab over the horizontal seam to the top (protect with a pin or a small camming unit). </climb> <climb extra="" grade="20" length="25m" name="Black Cherry" number="" stars="" id="12" fa="A. Herington, E. Peacock, Oct 1982.">Two metres L of Face It is a vegetated fist crack. Start 1m L of the crack as for Taco and climb up trending R past the stepped rooves. Reach R into the crack to place pro before bridging and laying away up past the bulge on Taco. Once back in the crack continue to the top, finishing up the final crack of Face It. </climb> <climb extra="" grade="20" length="25m" name="Face It" number="" stars="**" id="13" fa="M. Law, G. Child, S. Parsons, Feb 1978.">Stare the beast down. The crack 3m R of Black Cherry and immediately L of a hugely vegetated corner. Climb the crack past two blocky ledges to just below the base of a small vee groove near the top. Hand traverse L and finish up a short crack. </climb> <climb extra="" grade="18" length="25m" name="Quarryman" number="" stars="" id="14" fa="K. Robinson, P. Robinson Aug 1999.">A vegetated corner that might require further gardening. The twin cracks between Face It and Play Dirty. An epic clean on lead. </climb> <climb extra="" grade="23" length="25m" name="Play Dirty" number="" stars="*" id="15" fa="G. Child, K. Carrigan, 1978.">The lightly vegetated thin flared crack 3m R of the vegetated corner of Quarryman. Climb the crack and the shallow corner above. </climb> <climb extra="Þ" grade="24" length="16m" name="Metal Mania" number="" stars="*" id="16" fa="R. Parkyn, Feb 1992.">Crank up the blunt arête between Play Dirty and Glam. Starts just L of Glam. Five BR's (carrots). </climb> <climb extra="" grade="19" length="17m" name="Glam" number="" stars="*" id="17" fa="Phil Steane, Pete Steane, Sep 1982.">The hand crack 6m around the arête R of Play Dirty and 25m L of Atlantis. This is the far L hand line in the semi-circle of buttresses L of Atlantis and has a short diagonal finger crack near the top. Hand jam to a small ledge. Pull up on face holds, then follow the finger crack to the top. </climb> <climb extra="↓" grade="22" length="10m" name="The Space Of Disse" number="" stars="" id="18" fa="O. Prall, Jan 1992.">A glorified boulder problem. The discontinuous thin crack 5m around the arête L of Atlantis. Up the sustained crack to the horizontal then rap off at the bolt. </climb> <climb extra="" grade="21" length="25m" name="Atlantis" number="" stars="***" id="19" fa="J. Friend, Jan 1975.">The tradster's testpiece. Not the best crack on the mountain (as claimed by Joe Friend), but it's pretty darn good. L of Savage Journey is a dirty corner chimney and L of this is a fine looking north facing crack line passing between roofs. Climb the crack through various widths with the crux just below the top. </climb> <climb extra="" grade="22" length="30m" name="Savage Journey" number="" stars="**" id="20" fa="H. Barber, Apr 1975.">Hand.. Off-hand... Fist. This will sort the crackmasters from those who are not! On the gently overhanging wall R of Atlantis are two cracks, take the LH line. Climb the steep and ever widening crack all the way. </climb> <climb extra="" grade="22" length="30m" name="Cruise Air" number="" stars="*" id="21" fa="P. Bigg, S. Parsons, Apr 1982.">The RH crack on the slightly overhanging wall R of Atlantis. Climb the steep cracks, moving R at the obvious transition. Follow the crack to the top, which becomes offwidth. </climb><image src="lostworldRightPrint.jpg" width="700" id="22">null</image> <climb extra="Þ ↓" grade="29" length="25m" name="Cheshire Cat" number="" stars="***" id="23" fa="K. Robinson, Jan 2004.">You'll never quit grinning. The arête L of Lactos and R of Cruise Air. </climb> <climb extra="↓" grade="21" length="22m" name="Lactos" number="" stars="*" id="24" fa="S. Parsons, P. Bigg, Apr 1982.">The thin crack immediately L of a chimney just around the arête R of Cruise Air. Climb the steep crack line to a small ledge. Continue up a short corner to the top. Harder if you don't use the R wall of the chimney. U-bolt rap station at the top. </climb> <climb extra="Þ ↓ " grade="" length="22m" name="GP Project" number="" stars="" id="25">Garry Phillips (2006) project immediately R of the abseil line. </climb> <climb extra="Þ ↓" grade="25" length="20m" name="Carhookia" number="" stars="*" id="26" fa="N. Selby, 2000.">Start 3m R of the bottom of Lactos (where the abseil lands you). Optional natural gear at the bottom then 4 bolts to a lower-off. </climb> <climb extra="" grade="18" length="20m" name="Heavenly Head Job" number="" stars="" id="27" fa="Phil Steane, Sep 1982.">It gets the thumbs up from Bill Clinton. The strange looking corner capped with a roof R of Carhookia. Bridge and jam the corner which becomes progressively harder. Hand jam the roof, step out L (awkward) and continue to the top. You can belay and rap off the Carhookia bolts. </climb> <climb extra="" grade="18" length="25m" name="Stone The Crows" number="" stars="" id="28" fa="L. Closs, I. Lewis, Mar 1973.">A tricky start that can flummox newcomers. Found 10m L of the central gully and marked by a conspicuous clean offwidth crack. Climb the short steep wall (difficult to protect) and continue up the wide crack above until a ledge is reached. Climb either of the two cracks to reach the top. </climb> <climb extra="" grade="15" length="8m" name="Cloaca" number="" stars="" id="29" fa=" D. Gray, D. Rossen, Jan 1992.">On the southern wall of the central gully. Climb the hands to off width crack.</climb> <climb extra="" grade="21" length="17m" name="Drayton" number="" stars="" id="30" fa="D. Gray, A. Hall, Jan 1992.">A contrived tribute to a dead poet. Starts via the bolts on Back on the Borderline and moves L and stems up the corner. </climb> <climb extra="Þ" grade="20" length="17m" name="Back On The Borderline" number="" stars="" id="31" fa="D. Gray, D. Rossen, Nov 1990.">Start on the northern wall of the central gully, about 5m L of Commoner's Crown. Climb the wall past 2 BRs, then finish up the handcrack. </climb> <climb extra="Þ" grade="23" length="17m" name="Naked Flame" number="" stars="" id="32" fa="D. Gray, D. Rossen, Jan 1992.">The arête 2m R of Back on the Borderline. Follow the line of 4 BRs up avoiding the tempting step onto the L wall. The third clip is pretty tenuous. </climb> <climb extra="" grade="17" length="25m" name="Commoners Crown" number="" stars="" id="33" fa="K. Kiernan, K. McConnell, Dec 1975.">The hand crack on the R hand side of the central gully. Jam to a large ledge and follow the often damp corner to the top. </climb> <climb extra="" grade="19" length="25m" name="Cries And Whispers" number="" stars="*" id="34" fa="K. Lindorff, K. McConnell, Jan 1976.">The front of the buttress to the R of the central gully. Hand jam to an awkward rest on a small stance between twin cracks. Follow the LH crack (crux) to the large ledge. Finish as for Commoners Crown. </climb> <climb extra="" grade="19" length="15m" name="Minstrel In The Gallery" number="" stars="" id="35" fa="R. Muhlen, B. Kennedy, K. McConnell, Jan 1977.">15m R of the central gully, twin cracks with an overhang halfway up the cliff. Jam the cleaner (it is still often slippery) RH crack. </climb> <climb extra="" grade="21" length="20m" name="Blood On The Racks" stars="*" id="36" fa="K. Kiernan, S. Karpiniec, K. McConnell Dec 1975. FFA: S. Parsons, D. Fife, P. Biggs, L. Sheppard, Jan 1982.">The short, thin crack a few metres L of Lost Wanderer. Up the crack past a thin section to a ledge. Continue L of the ledge easily to the top. </climb> <climb extra="" grade="12" length="15m" name="Technicolour Zawn" stars="" id="37" fa="Phil Steane (solo), Jan 1983.">The easy chimney/flake with the bush immediately R of Blood on the Racks. </climb> <climb extra="" grade="18" length="25m" name="Lost Wanderer" number="" stars="***" id="38" fa="Lewis, K. Carrigan, Apr 1974. Direct start: L. Closs, Jul 1975.">Not hard to locate. The wall with two horizontal breaks about 50m R of the central gully. Climb the short crack on the L, traverse R on the horizontal breaks into the main crack, and follow this to the top. Direct start (19): From the fallen block at the base climb directly up the front of the buttress to join the main crack. Not for the faint hearted as there is no pro and the landing would be painful if it went pear-shaped. </climb> <climb extra="" grade="21" length="25m" name="Wander No More" number="" stars="" id="39" fa=" D. Gray, S. Eberhardt, Jan 1992.">The crack on the R side of the arête below Lost Wanderer. Finish up Lost Wanderer from about half height.</climb> <climb extra="Þ ↓ " grade="28" length="20m" name="Gargamell" number="" stars="**" id="40" fa="A. Williams, Jan 2004">The arête R of Lost Wanderer. Delicately powerful moves with an engaging crux. Fully bolted. </climb> <climb extra="" grade="14" length="27m" name="Hurricane" number="" stars="" id="41" fa="Basil Rathbone, R. Roffe, Feb 1976.">The chances of being blown away are slim indeed. 15m R of Lost Wanderer, around the corner, is an obvious chimney with three large chockstones. Chimney and jam to the top. </climb> <climb extra="" grade="21" length="20m" name="Great Southern Land" number="" stars="*" id="42" fa="Phil Steane, Pete Steane, Oct 1982, FFA: G. Cooper, A. Adams, Feb 1986.">The corner with twin cracks above a scrubby ledge 15m R of Hurricane and around the arête L of Dyazide. Solo up past the scrub and onto the ledge and belay. Bridge and jam the twin cracks, finishing up the LH crack. </climb> <climb extra="" grade="26" length="20m" name="Endorphine" stars="**" id="43" fa="K. Robinson, Jan 2004">The arête to the L of Dyazide and R of Great Southern Land. </climb> <climb extra="" grade="17" length="12m" name="Dyazide" stars="*" id="44" fa="P. Bigg, S. Parsons, D.Fife, 1982.">The distinctive north facing crack starting from a ledge halfway up the cliff, L of a wide corner. Scramble up to the ledge from the R. Jam the hand crack to an awkward rest in the sentry box, exit up the finger crack (crux). </climb> <climb extra="" grade="25" length="15m" name="Don't Eat Yellow Snow" number="" stars="*" id="45" fa="Phil Steane, et al, Apr 1983. FFA: M. Jackson, Feb 1995.">Absorbing climbing. An old aid line that was freed in fine style. The second crack L of Adolf Builds A Bonfire and the third line R of Dyazide. The thin crack up the striped wall. Climb the crack with increasing difficulty. Small camming units required. </climb> <climb extra="" grade="18" length="15m" name="Adolf Builds A Bonfire" number="" stars="" id="46" fa="Phil Steane, A. Adams, Jan 1983.">The big corner L of Opportunity. Up the small slab then jam the corner. </climb> <climb extra="" grade="20" length="15m" name="Opportunity" number="" stars="*" id="47" fa="A. Adams, Phil Steane, Mar 1983.">Much to gain, so little pain. The overhung crack and sentry box 6m L of World Wide Adventure. Climb the crack past the sentry box to the sloping ledge at the top. The move onto the ledge is memorable. </climb> <climb extra="" grade="18" length="22m" name="World Wide Adventure" stars="" id="48" fa="Phil Steane, N. Ward, Mar 1983.">The L facing corner below a scrubby ledge 15m L of Rosy Pink Cadillac. A prominent gum tree is growing out of the top crack. Layback corner, cross the ledge, jam to the gum tree (crux) and finish up the final groove. </climb> <climb extra="" grade="21" length="12m" name="Money In The Bank" stars="" id="49" fa="(1) N. Ward, Phil Steane. (2) C. Maddock, Phil Steane, Apr 1983. FFA: E. Peacock, 1983.">A safe investment. (1) 8m (21) climb the seam on the wall L of the Rosy Pink Cadillac offwidth. (2) 14m (12) Layback the large loose flake cautiously, finishing easily behind the buttress. </climb> <climb extra="" grade="25" length="25m" name="Rosy Pink Cadillac" number="" stars="***" id="50" fa="M. McHugh, R. McMahon, 1971. FFA: M. Law, 1978. Direct Start: S. Parsons, P. Bigg, D. Fife, Feb 1983.">An old aid line gone free, following a thin crack up the front of the last major buttress on the R end of the cliff, L of Agent Orange Sunset. These days the route is normally climbed via the Direct Start (25) past 2 FH, and the Direct Finish (25) past another FH, for a more strenuous and sustained outing. The original free version (23) started up the offwidth on the L before stepping R into the finger crack, and also finished by swinging around to the easy corner on the L at the end of finger crack. </climb> <climb extra="" grade="19" length="20m" name="Agent Orange Sunset" stars="**" id="51" fa="Phil Steane, Nov 1982.">Unique and weird. Do it for the entertainment value. Tackles the prominent diagonal L leaning flake at the R end of the cliff. Struggle up the offwidth chimney 3m L of Paladin until you can traverse out L at the flake. Move up the flake to a roof, swing L around the arête and finish up an easy chimney. </climb> <climb extra="" grade="17" length="16m" name="Paladin" number="" stars="*" id="52" fa="P. Morris, P. Cullen, Jan 1977.">The short, steep, and slightly dirty hand crack at the far R of the cliff, just R of Agent Orange Sunset. Jam the crack. </climb> <text class="heading2" id="53">New World </text> <text class="indentedHeader" id="54">Rock: Dolerite, up to 15m high, slightly off vertical.</text> <text class="indentedHeader" id="55">Access: This little crag (GPS MTW350), visible from the bend below the Chalet, is ten minutes walk from Lost World. The easiest route to the cliff is probably to follow the Yellow Spot Track across the boulder field in front of Lost World until it meets the Red Spot Track, just about directly opposite the Lactos abseil (GPS MTW360). Follow the yellow spots steeply down over the edge for about 50m and shortly after the track levels off (just before it veers off down again and to the R), a large cairn on the LH side (GPS MTW370) marks a track that contours round to the north, marked by tape and occasional cairns, to two bolted arêtes. Alternatively, bush-bash down from the northern end of Lost World down to the top and rap off to reach the base... easier to describe, harder to do...</text> <text class="indentedHeader" id="56">Climbing Info: 13 routes, mostly bolted, offer a varied selection of cracks and bolted faces. Routes are described L to R and virtually all have initialed starts. Note that the BR's used here will not take the newer R angle RP brackets.</text> <climb extra="Þ ↓" grade="24" length="10m" name="Cranky Girl" number="" stars="*" id="57" fa="A. Williams, Jan 2002">The first climb on the craglet (GPS MTW380) takes the arête of the column L of Dvorak Goes Metal. 3 U-bolts and Rap station. </climb> <climb extra="Þ" grade="20" length="12m" name="Dvorak Goes Metal" number="" stars="**" id="58" fa="R. Parkyn, Apr 1991.">The route follows the superb looking RH arête, 5m R of Cranky Girl. Scramble to the base of the arête then launch onto the arête proper. Three bolts (carrots) protect the excellent face climbing above, single bolt belay. </climb> <climb extra="" grade="16" length="15m" name="Friends With Cameras for Eyes" number="" stars="*" id="59" fa="O. Prall, May 1991.">Start about 12m R of the last climb. A few bouldery moves lead to a twin crack system. </climb> <climb extra="" grade="15" length="16m" name="Catcher In The Rye" number="" stars="" id="60" fa="Phil Steane, R. deCesare, Nov 1982.">About 2m R of Friends et al. Hand jam to two blocks and a bush. Continue up the crack above until a traverse L across the wall to a "horn" can be made, to avoid an offwidth crack. Finish up the hand crack R of the arête. </climb> <climb extra="Þ" grade="20" length="15m" name="Quintessence of Clarity" number="" stars="*" id="61" fa="M. Perchard, May 1991.">The face/arête just L of Pinkinsane. Climb the face or arête behind the myrtle to the BR (run out). Continue past the difficulties (crux) until it eases. Ascend easily and then finish with moves of varying degrees of difficulty. (2 BRs, carrots) Pro can be arranged in Pinkinsane to avoid initial runout. </climb> <climb extra="" grade="16" length="16m" name="Pinkinsane" stars="" id="62" fa="Phil Steane, R. deCesare, Nov 1982.">Jam the fist crack just R of the above route, terminating in an easy chimney. </climb> <climb extra="Þ" grade="24" length="15m" name="Would Jesus Play Guitar in a Thrash Metal Band" number="" stars="*" id="63" fa="O. Prall, Apr 1991.">Rewarding and technical. Start 1m R of Pinkinsane. Climb the face past two bolts (carrots) on thin layaway holds (crux). Continue up the hand crack which begins at 7m. </climb> <climb extra="" grade="15" length="16m" name="Procol Harum" number="" stars="**" id="64" fa="Phil Steane, R. deCesare, Nov 1982.">A pearler! Hand jam the line 4m R of Pinkinsane finishing up a short slab on the L. </climb> <climb extra="Þ" grade="23" length="15m" name="Toxastoma par Excellance" number="" stars="**" id="65" fa="M. Perchard, Apr 1991">A sustained and technical climb (if you stay on route) which climbs the face between Procol and Tales of Power. Using small holds and both arêtes climb to the base of the layback. Up this then move L (crux) to a finger crack. Up this for 3m, then finish back R up the blank wall above. (4 BRs, carrots). </climb> <climb extra="" grade="17" length="16m" name="Tales Of Power" stars="*" id="66" fa="Phil Steane, R. deCesare, Nov 1982.">A thin start, followed by hand and pleasant offwidth jams. The line 2m R of Procol. </climb> <climb extra="" grade="16" length="16m" name="Semi Detached Reality" stars="" id="67" fa="Phil Steane, R. deCesare, Nov 1982.">Steep hand jams, followed by a traverse into the LH line. The crack 4m R of Tales of Power that splits into two half way up. </climb> <climb extra="" grade="20" length="20m" name="Parkynsane" number="" stars="" id="68" fa="R. Parkyn, Apr 1991.">Starts just R of Semi Detached Reality. A wandering beginning leads to a thin crack near the R hand edge of the high orange wall. Climb the crack and arête just to the R. Well protected. </climb> <climb extra="" grade="6 " length="16m" name="Barbwire Canoe" stars="" id="69" fa="Phil Steane, R. deCesare, Nov 1982.">The easy corner just R of the main cliff, finishing with a desperate move. </climb> <text class="heading2" id="70">Test World </text> <text class="indentedHeader" id="71">Rock: Dolerite face, about 15m high. It is not like us to be judgmental or disparaging but this is shite. It might be worth a visit if you are really, really bored with everything else on the mountain, or with life itself. </text> <text class="indentedHeader" id="72">Access: Aaaagh! Located 150m to the south of Lost World, at the same altitude (GPS MTW390). From Good Behaviour scramble and bush-bash R (south) and down around a rock spur or two then back uphill to reach the crag. Alternatively a direct approach to the top as an offshoot from the usual route into Lost World from is less scrubby but very difficult to find. Take the GPS... and a machete... or flame thrower... </text> <text class="indentedHeader" id="73">Climbing Info: The "crag" faces the Organ Pipes and is split by only 4 lines, the RH of which is vegetated with tea tree. Again, climbs are described from L to R. </text> <climb extra="" grade="17" length="15m" name="Six Months In A Leaky Test Tube" number="" stars="" id="74" fa="Phil Steane, G. Cooper, 1982.">The LH line. Start behind the scrub and continue up the leftward trending crack. </climb> <climb extra="" grade="14" length="15m" name="Testing One Two Three" number="" stars="" id="75" fa="Phil Steane, G. Cooper, 1982.">The chimney, second from the L, with a big chockstone at half height. </climb> <climb extra="" grade="17" length="15m" name="My Mother Was A Test Tube" stars="" id="76" fa="G. Cooper, Phil Steane, 1982.">The third crack with the awkward looking start. Up the crack to the ledge and continue easily to top. </climb><text class="heading2" id="77">Micro World</text><text class="indentedHeader" id="78">Rock: North facing dolerite buttresses up to 10m</text><text class="indentedHeader" id="79">Access: The crag is due north of the big bend, on the other side of the ridge, facing north. The easiest way to get there is to walk up the red dot track to the top of the hill. After it goes up past the rock step, turn sharply left and follow the ridge along west about 200m. Angle north and you will pick up some old cairns and an old track, which heads down to the crag on its western end.</text><text class="indentedHeader" id="80">Climbing Info: This new little crag makes up for its lack of height by easy access, a sunny aspect, and user friendly climbing. Its probably the sunniest crag on the mountain. There is potential for about half a dozen more lines to be done here. Climbs are described left to right.</text><climb extra="3Þ ↓" grade="21" length="8m" name="Little Ripper" number="LR." stars="*" id="81" fa="Jon Nermut Mar 2010.">Around on the left hand side of the crag is a face with two lines. Climb the left arete past 3 FH to DBB. You can get a small cam in under the block at the top to protect the exit. </climb><climb extra="↓" grade="20" length="8m" name="Rough as Guts" number="RAG." stars="" id="82" fa="Dave Humphries Mar 2010.">The burly crack to the right of Little Ripper. One FH protects the start, there is bomber gear in the crack. Use the DBB on Little Ripper. </climb><image noPrint="false" src="Main Topo.jpg" width="500" id="83"/><climb extra="↓" grade="17" length="10m" name="Flood Control" number="FC." stars="*" id="84" fa="Dave Humphries Feb 2010.">Climb the seam and crack up the middle of the face to DBB. The gear gets better with height, its a bit thin down low. </climb><image noPrint="false" src="project topo.jpg" width="500" id="85"/><climb extra="3Þ" grade="" length="" name="Daves Project" number="DP." stars="" id="86">Project (DH) - 3 FH up arete in the middle of the crag.</climb><image noPrint="false" src="sc2 Topo.jpg" width="500" id="87"/><climb extra="↓" grade="21" length="6m" name="Short Climb 2" number="SC2." stars="" id="88" fa="Dave Humphries Feb 2010.">The first bit of rock you come to on the right hand side of the crag is a tiny buttress with some bolts in it . Climb the face past a FH and into the thin crack, which takes small cams. </climb><climb extra="2Þ ↓" grade="18" length="6m" name="Expectorant" number="E." stars="" id="89" fa="Dave Humphries Feb 2010.">The detached pillar just to the right has 2 bolts. Climb up and over to the DBB on the previous climb. A bit contrived... but fun all the same. </climb> </guide> |