<guide version="2"><header access="It is possible to drive to within fifty meters of the cliff. There used to be a locked gate at the bottom of the road, but this is no longer present. The crag is on Crown Land, administered by Forestry Tasmania. To get there head up to New Norfolk and cross to the northern side of the Derwent River. Head up river and take the first R, followed by a L. Follow this through the outer suburbs of New Norfolk to the T-junction: to get to the cliff turn R along Back River Road. The turn-off to the crag is about 2km along Back River Road from the T-junction. Turn R at the driveway to house numbers 658, 660 & 662 (this is the middle of 3 dirt tracks, with a sign for Derwent Valley Timber Craft) and drive for another 1km before reaching where the locked gate used to be on the left. After a few kilometers of zigging and zagging up a steep, rough road, when it flattens out a bit take a track which turns off sharply to the left. The crag will soon be visible on the right. The road is "good fun" in a 2wd - the extra clearance and traction of a softroader makes the drive a bit more comfortable. If you can't get your car up the road the walk up isn't too grim (takes about 30 minutes)." acknowledgement="by Roger Parkyn, originally published in Craglets." history="" intro="This is a crag you either love or hate. I love it but others have described it as "loose", "dirty", "sandy" and even "chossy". Don't listen to any of that rubbish though - just go there and see what you think. Handsome Crag is unique amongst the Hobart craglets for several reasons. Firstly, there is dominance of overhangs which is something conspicuously absent on dolerite. Secondly, the harder climbs are mostly quite user-friendly. Finally, the north facing aspect makes it a warm spot, even in mid-winter. Most of the climbs are identified by small painted initials at their base but the bolts are an eclectic bunch, some "U"s, and a mix of large- and small-head carrots, sometimes on the same climb - take a a variety of bracket sizes with you." name="Handsome Crag" rock="Vertical to overhanging sandstone, mostly bolted climbs but a number need gear as well." sun="All day sun" walk="2 min" id="1"/><image noPrint="false" src="handsomeMap.png" width="" id="2"/><gps id="3"><point code="HAN000" description="Handsome Crag - Gratuitous Steel Insertion" easting="507271" height="470" northing="5267837" zone="55G"/></gps><text class="text" id="4">Further left from the "main" part of the cliff are two climbs. From Hard and Fast go left up the descent track then left again along to a small cliff.</text><climb extra="" grade="15" length="10m" name="Orchid Corner" id="5" fa="John Domeney, May 1993.">The sloping corner crack. </climb><climb extra="" grade="16" length="10m" name="Eat, Shit, Bolt" id="6" fa="John Domeney, Apr 1993.">The short hand crack. </climb><climb extra="" grade="12" length="10m" name="Desert Haircut" number="" stars="" id="7" fa="Allan Adams, May 1988.">Start 20m L of Hard and Fast. Just after walking through a notch, is a short corner containing twin hand cracks and a lip at the top. Climb the cracks to a R-leading ramp. </climb><climb extra="" grade="14" length="7m" name="Licken Lichen" number="" stars="" id="8" fa="N.Tidswell, May 1988.">Start 8m R of Desert Haircut. Looks pretty worthless. </climb><climb extra="" grade="25" length="18m" name="Hammerhead" number="" stars="" id="9" fa="Mick Berry, 1991.">Takes the staircase shaped crack L of Hard and Fast. Traverse L to the base of the finger crack, up this, then rightwards to the fixed wire on Hard and Fast. All natural gear (cams). </climb><climb extra="" grade="23" length="18m" name="Hard and Fast" stars=" ** " id="10" fa="TR Pete Steane. FA Gavin Jensen, Aug 1988.">Power up the crack in the overhanging wall which has a horizontal at half height. Good protection all the way and a fixed wire, makes this an excellent lead. Don't succumb to the temptation of a top-rope, as many do. </climb><climb extra="" grade="20" length="18m" name="Suck the Kumara" number="" stars="" id="11" fa="Roger Parkyn, Jul 1989.">Ascend the gaping cleft on the overhanging wall R of Hard and Fast. Surmount the large clitoris-like feature at 2/3 height. Finish directly. This route is good fun and not as hideous as it may look. Honestly! Well; some have described it as "a cunt of a root" (sic). Take some big friends as well as some wires. </climb><climb extra="" grade="23" length="12m" name="Palpate the Banana" number="" stars="*" id="12" fa="Roger Parkyn, Jan 1991.">Start off the block and climb the steep wall R of Suck the Kumara. The bolt clip is best facilitated by the use of a stick (plenty around). An excellent 2 and/or 2½ Friend in a pocket protects the climbing above. A second size 2 friend can be used to protect the final move if necessary. </climb><climb extra="" grade="11" length="12m" name="Tora! Tora! Flora!" number="" stars="" id="13" fa="Stephen Bunton, Sep 1989.">Starts up the corner R of Palpate the Banana. Climb the awkward block and follow the corner to the top. Quite a pleasant route. </climb><climb extra="" grade="17" length="12m" name="Blitz Siege" number="" stars="" id="14" fa="Stephen Bunton, Sep 1989.">Starts as for Tora Tora Flora. From the top of the starting block, step R and climb the thin crack to the summit. </climb><climb extra="" grade="10" length="20m" name="Garden Party" number="" stars="" id="15" fa="W.Jensen, Nov 1988.">Starts behind the first big black tree 15m to the R of Hard and Fast. Climb the chimney-crack to a ledge at 5m, then traverse 4m R through some vegetation, and climb up and left slightly into a shallow corner which has a tricky exit. This climb looks poxy and, to my knowledge, no-one has been stupid enough to do a second ascent. </climb><climb extra="" grade="20" length="35m" name="Social Security" number="" stars="" id="16" fa="Gavin Jensen, May 1988.">Climb the finger crack 5m L of Stiff Upper Lip which leads to a small ledge with a tree at about 7m. Continue past this and exit L to a big ledge. Move up to clip a bolt then traverse R to a large flake. Climb the hand-crack above this. Follow the crack system to the top using some pretty skinny wires. Needs a brush. </climb><climb extra="" grade="20" length="30m" name="Stiff Upper Lip" number="" stars="" id="17" fa="Stuart Scott, Aug 1988.">Just L of Blinded by the Beacon is a shallow right-facing vegetated corner. Climb this to a small ledge and continue above to a block-filled easy corner. Move slightly R to clip a bolt and surmount the bulge above it. Climb the corner and flake above to finish. </climb><climb extra="" grade="21" length="15m" name="Blinded by the Beacon" number="" stars="*" id="18" fa="Roger Parkyn, Jul 1989.">Start by bridging past a sandy cave past the U-bolt. A carrot protects face climbing to a cave at half-height. Clip a second U-bolt and/or the second carrot, and continue above, trending slightly leftwards before stepping R to finish. Belay or rap off the large tree. </climb><climb extra="" grade="22" length="20m" name="Dredge on an Edge" stars=" * " id="19" fa="Richard Marshall, May 1988.">The start, 5m right of Blinded by the Beacon is almost always wet. Don't be put off as the climbing above is excellent and physical. The most popular method is to stick-clip the first bolt (with fixed hanger) and crank past the wet patch. There are two more hangered bolts above, but wires and friends are also needed. At the top move carefully leftwards to belay at the same tree as for Blinded by the Beacon. </climb><climb extra="" grade="19" length="35m" name="Fear of Flying" number="" stars="" id="20" fa="Doug Fife, Jun 1988.">This route ascends the orange dihedral on the steep wall above and right of Dredge on an Edge. Named in honour of its spaced protection, this route lacks popularity. Although undeniably scary the gear is probably adequate, so give it a go if you're feeling bold. The climbing itself is excellent and the position stunning. Start 15m R of Dredge on an Edge, climb past a dirty sentry box to a ledge at 6m. Continue up the hand-crack above till it runs out then traverse L 3m to where the dihedral starts. The crux of the climb is exiting onto the slab above the dihedral. </climb><climb extra="" grade="18" length="20m" name="Broke Bored and Ignored" number="" stars="" id="21" fa="Allan Adams, Jul 1988.">Grovel up the gully L of Space Master to belay at a horizontally growing gum tree on the L about 10m off the deck. Climb the crack and face to a small ledge. The brushed path continues to the top. </climb><climb extra="" grade="23" length="25m" name="Space Master" number="" stars="" id="22" fa="W.Jensen, Dec 1988.">After grovelling up the gully the climbing begins by traversing the prominent horizontal rightwards into the middle of the steep orange wall. Small friends and medium sized wires protect the climbing up the thin crack. Move R onto easier ground then up, to reach the base of the arête directly above the thin crack climbed below. Two bolts protect the climbing to the summit. The first of them is clipped blind. </climb><climb extra="Þ" grade="23" length="40m" name="Space Cadet" number="" stars="*" id="23" fa="Gavin Jensen, Dec 1988.">A captivating overhanging arête on the Space Master buttress, the visual appeal of this line is enhanced by being bristling with bolts. Start well to the R by an unpleasant scramble at the base of a large gully. Traverse leftwards to the climb passing one bolt before the arête itself is reached. Follow three bolts up the arête. After the fourth bolt it is possible to escape by traversing L across the horizontal to where Space Master starts. The continuation of the climb is not as hard as the arête below and I would highly recommend it. Continue a small distance further up then traverse R to clip a bolt below a bulge. Climb the bulge to a sloping ledge then finish up an easy jam crack. </climb><climb extra="" grade="22" length="10m" name="Logarithm" id="24" fa="Doug Fife, May 1988.">I don't know anyone who's bothered to repeat this route as it involves abseiling from above to set up a top-rope. Probably not that much of a chore but not very inspiring, eh. Anyway the route follows a brushed dihedral between the finishes of Space Master and Space Cadet, starting from the slopey ledge. </climb><climb extra="Þ" grade="25" length="20m" name="Just Too Hip" number="" stars="" id="25" fa="Evan Peacock, 1992-3.">Crank up the steep arête (2 bolts with fixed hangers) to join Enola Gay at the end of the traverse. Continue up for a few meters then blast out rightwards through the roof (more bolts). Spectacular. The lower part, the arête, makes a good alternative start to Enola Gay (grade 22). </climb><climb extra="" grade="20" length="40m" name="Enola Gay" number="" stars="**" id="26" fa="D.Fife, A.Adams, Jun 1988.">1) 20m 19. Start underneath the mega-overhang by ascending a tight groove with a single bolt. The traverse leftwards underneath the overhang is scantily protected but quite easy; take care on the suss rock though. The climbing hots up after you move around the arête and power up the overhanging wall, very spectacular and not as hard as it looks. Belay on the ledge beyond the bird shit. 2) 15m 20. The straight crack (fingers to hands) leads to the summit. It gets pretty steamy towards the top. </climb><climb extra="Þ" grade="22" length="35m" name="Raptor" number="" stars="*" id="27" fa="Stefan Eberhard, Mar 1991.">This is the RH way past the mega-overhang of Enola Gay. 1) 20m 22. Three bolts. The start is marked by a bolt at 5m. Climb the corner under the roof (crux). Continue leftwards then go up the chimney to belay on a ledge. Take some gear for the chimney and the belay (medium sized friends). 2) 15m 21. Climb up the arête, clip the second bolt then traverse L. Pass two more bolts then traverse R to finish. </climb><climb extra="Þ" grade="22" length="30m" name="Gorilla Monsoon" number="" stars="**" id="28" fa="Stefan Eberhard, 1991.">Climb the best of Raptor and then instead of moving L to finish the first pitch, go R and crank through the roof (the square looking one from below). Spectacular. </climb><climb extra="Þ" grade="25" length="35m" name="Assagai" number="" stars="*" id="29" fa="Gavin Jensen, Aug 1988.">Classy hard face climbing which is well protected by bolts. Unfortunately, however, getting to the first bolt is not brilliantly protected and it is not an easy clip. Start the climb from the tree of Leaky Leg bag. After clipping the fifth bolt, climb the overhang by moving L and using a large hole. </climb><climb extra="" grade="18" length="35m" name="Leaky Leg Bag" stars=" * " id="30" fa="Peter Steane, May 1988.">Poorly protected but easy climbing leads to a tree at about 10m. Climb the elegant dihedral above the tree. The finish is harder than it looks. </climb><climb extra="Þ" grade="23" length="30m" name="Via Ferrata" number="" stars="**" id="31" fa="Roger Parkyn, Nov 1989.">This route starts by wandering up the face R of Leaky Leg bag. Follow the bolts up the arête R of Leaky Leg bag. Sustained and pleasant. There are six bolts in total. </climb><climb extra="Þ" grade="24" length="30m" name="Oodles of Noodles" number="" stars="" id="32" fa="Evan Peacock, 1992.">Go up Via Ferrata to the fourth bolt. Instead of going L continue up to the pocky wall R of Via Ferrata. Follow the line of 3 bolts with fixed hangers (the last is hard to clip). The crux is dynoing to a pocket before traversing into Via Ferrata to finish. </climb><climb extra="Þ" grade="20" length="30m" name="Actus Reus" number="" stars="" id="33" fa="Gavin Jensen, May 1988.">The climb begins 30m R of Leaky Leg bag. Scramble to the ledge at 5m then climb the diagonal finger crack which leads to a ledge. Climb past a bolt to another ledge. From here move up to clip the second (and final) bolt. From this bolt traverse R to the base of a groove which leads to the top. </climb><climb extra="" grade="17" length="30m" name="Biggus Dickus" id="34" fa="Gavin Jensen, May 1988.">Start near where Actus Reus starts but climb the large overhanging crack. </climb><climb extra="Þ" grade="24" length="15m" name="The Rock Police" number="" stars="" id="35" fa="Evan Peacock, Oct 1992.">Start just L of Electric Mischief. Stick clip the first bolt then ape through the roof, to the same belay as Electric Mischief. </climb><climb extra="Þ" grade="21" length="15m" name="Electric Mischief" number="" stars="" id="36" fa="Stefan Eberhard, Jun 1992.">Stick clip the bolt (fixed hanger). Crank the roof then follow three more bolts to the rap chain. </climb><climb extra="" grade="21" length="30m" name="Plumb It" number="" stars="" id="37" fa="Doug Fife, May 1988.">Take the steep grunty start up dark rock about 20m right of Actus Reus. Continue through the grey wall via a finger crack, which leads to a ledge. Go L then up the face, L of a corner, to the top. </climb><climb extra="Þ" grade="25" length="30m" name="Sticky Business" number="" stars="" id="38" fa="Stefan Eberhard, Sep 1993.">Follow those big juicy eye-bolts up the red overhanging wall. </climb><climb extra="" grade="23" length="30m" name="Pump Dummy" number="" stars="" id="39" fa="Doug Fife, Aug 1988.">The start which is quite tricky goes up the dihedral 6m R of Plumb It. The best way to protect the start is to lean a log against the cliff and climb up it to place some friends. The corner leads to a ledge at about 5m. Move slightly R and climb the steep wall above, passing a single, hangered, bolt (crux). This is an excellent climb, but is marred by an unclean finish on the final bulge above the crux. </climb><climb extra="" grade="19/22" length="15m" name="No U-Turns" number="" stars="" id="40" fa="Al Adams Oct 1992. Direct finish Roger Parkyn, Sep 1993.">Start up an easy corner 10m right of Pump Dummy near a fallen eucalyptus. From the ledge reach R to clip a bolt then follow the overhanging blocky wall past a second bolt. Take some gear for the crack that follows this. The original climb finished via a lichenous L leading ramp. Punters now have the choice of rapping off the U-anchor or continuing through with the direct finish. </climb><climb extra="" grade="22" length="15m" name="Rhino Eyes" number="" stars="" id="41" fa="Rolan Eberhard, Aug 1993.">Steamy and sustained climbing up the yellow wall L of Gratuitous. Three bolts. From the first bolt climb up and into the corner, where the second bolt can be clipped. Some wires and cammers are required at the top. </climb><climb extra="Þ" grade="18" length="12m" name="Gratuitous Steel Insertion" number="" stars="**" id="42" fa="Roger Parkyn, Jul 1990.">Well protected, steep and classy climbing. This climb is deservedly popular (and I'm not biased either). Five bolts protect the route, you might want to use a wire between bolts 4 and 5. Start beside a thin straight gum tree. </climb><climb extra="" grade="17" length="12m" name="Crag Rats" number="" stars="" id="43" fa="Vera Wong, Feb 1991.">Take the overhang just R of Gratuitous Steel Insertion then climb the crack to a large ledge. </climb><climb extra="" grade="19" length="10m" name="Little Creatures" number="" stars="" id="44" fa="Vera Wong, Feb 1991.">Starts a further 10m R of Crag Rats. A hard overhanging start at the bottom is protected by a bolt. A crack then leads to a ledge. </climb><climb extra="" grade="17" length="15m" name="Timbertop" id="45" fa="Stephen Bunton, Oct 1989.">Start up the loose sandy cave. The crux is pulling through the overhang at the top of the cave. Finish easily up the cracks above. </climb><climb extra="Þ" grade="24" length="15m" name="Underhanded" number="" stars="" id="46" fa="Gavin Jensen, May 1988.">Two bolts several meters L of Touchstone lead through the overhang and onto the slab above. The crux is getting established on the slab and appears contrived as it is quite a bit easier than 24 if you use holds near Touchstone. Whichever method you use, it is still a good climb. </climb><climb extra="" grade="19" length="15m" name="Touchstone" number="" stars="*" id="47" fa="Doug Fife, Apr 1988.">A very popular route, this climb follows the prominent hand crack a meter or two L of the arête of the buttress. An overhang at about 6m slows most people down a bit. </climb><climb extra="" grade="22" length="15m" name="This is My Kitchen" number="" stars="" id="48" fa="Vera Wong, Aug 1992.">Start in the corner crack then follow the arête. Three bolts and some natural gear. </climb><climb extra="Þ" grade="21" length="12m" name="The Dog Killed the Video Star" number="" stars="" id="49" fa="Evan Peacock, Oct 1989.">This is the smooth looking slab right of the arête R of Touchstone. There is a hard move passing the first bolt, and the second bolt is hard for short people to clip. This climb is pleasant enough but it displays some characteristics to avoid when placing bolts: protuberant bolts, awkward clips and bolts placed not really where they are needed. </climb><climb extra="" grade="8" length="13m" name="Mojo's Mistake" number="" stars="" id="50" fa="Evan Peacock, Oct 1989.">Go straight up on large holds, starting just L of the big gully/dihedral. No pro. </climb><climb extra="" grade="25" length="15m" name="Another Bloody Bodum Beaker Broken" number="" stars="" id="51" fa="Evan Peacock.">This is the original on the overhanging wall. Use the crack to the L of Mentzal (requires natural gear). </climb><climb extra="" grade="24" length="15m" name="Mentzal as Anything" stars=" ** " id="52" fa="Simon Mentz, 1992.">Only a one metre variant on Evan's route but it has created a quite different route. </climb><climb extra="Þ" grade="28" length="15m" name="Melon Dreaming" number="" stars="" id="53" fa="Evan Peacock.">The right-hand line of bolts on the overhang wall, finishing onto the arête. (Grade 26 with alternative start). </climb><climb extra="Þ" grade="23" length="15m" name="Bang Goes the Budgie" number="" stars="" id="54" fa="Evan Peacock, Oct 1989.">A hard cranky start goes up the overhang at the bottom of the arête on the R of the major overhanging wall. Clip the bolt R of the arête before you get going. Climb to the R side of the arête then continue straight up. </climb><climb extra="" grade="13" length="15m" name="Farmer Henry" number="" stars="" id="55" fa="Hanut Dodd, May 1988.">The next lump of rock R of Budgie. Start up a fist crack and then follow a flake system curving leftwards. Step around the arête to a ledge then continue up to a tree. A bit loose. </climb><text class="text" id="56">About 30m or so R of Farmer Henry is a small isolated buttress.</text><climb extra="" grade="20" length="10m" name="Cold Cold Change" id="57" fa="Evan Peacock, Sep 1994.">Start in the small cave then follow the U's up the face to anchors under a dinner plate roof. </climb><climb extra="" grade="14" length="10m" name="Sympull" number="" stars="" id="58" fa="Evan Peacock, Sep 1994.">Around the corner to the R of Cold. One U and gear up the groove and over the roof. </climb></guide> |