<?xml version="1.0" encoding="UTF-8"?>
<guide>
<text class="heading1">Lost World
</text>
<text
class="intro" new="false"
number="null.">Rock: Dolerite columns up to 30m high.
</text>
<text
class="intro" new="false"
number="null.">Aspect: Lost World is located high on the eastern side of Mount Arthur at around 1100m. However, being relatively sheltered, it is often warmer than the Pipes.
</text>
<text
class="intro" new="false"
number="null.">Access: About 9.5km drive from Fern Tree a prominent sweeping bend turns back on itself. This is the Big Bend complete with small carpark (GPS: E0518123 N5251918). Great views of Lost World open up as you drive the last km (also New World and Test World) to the bend. There are two ways to the crag. First, cross the road and the small creek and follow a muddy track past a track signpost for about 50m. (1) For the LH (south) end of the cliff, take the narrow track off to the R (track bifurcation marked by a rock with a red spot on either side - sometimes a small cairn as well, GPS: E0518172 N5251964) and follow the faint track then yellow paint splots through trees for about 10 minutes to a boulder field and on to the top of the cliff. (2) For the RH (north) end, don't turn off R but continue on along the track (red markers) past another track signpost for about 15mins which leads round then down to the RH end of the cliff.</text>
<text
class="intro" new="false"
number="null.">Descent: There is a bolted rap station at the top of Lactos, near the centre of the cliff. To find it, follow the yellow paint splodges to the cliff edge and head back L (north) along the cliff edge for about 30m. The bolts are at the L end of a reasonably obvious ledge, by a small gum tree (GPS: E0518386 N5252058). If you can not locate it, go back to the marked trail and follow the paint spots down the steep gully (GPS: E0518416 N5252009) that comes out at the base of Lost World at the LH end (South) between Incredible Journey and CC's. For the RH end (North), scramble down the gully near the end of the cliff line, R of Palladin, following the Red Spot path as described in Access. Descent using the central gully is NOT recommended - it is loose, muddy and slippery. Enough said.</text>
<text
class="intro" new="false"
number="null.">Climbing Info: Nearly 50 routes, a mixture of trad and bolted, up to Grade 29. Known for the steep and relentless nature of the climbing. Mainly crack but now some stunning arêtes and walls as well. Most of the early, first generation sports climbs on these cliffs have carrots and no rap stations... take some large hangers. Climbs are described L to R.</text><image
new="false" number="null." src="lost world2.png"
width="">null</image><image new="false" number="null."
src="LostWorldLHPrint.jpg" width="700">null</image>
<climb
extra="" grade="21" length="18m" name="Dig For Fire"
stars="">The direct start to Good Behaviour. Climb the awkward tight hand crack straight up past the bush and into the easier Good Behaviour line. O. Prall, R. Parkyn, Jan. 1992.
</climb>
<climb
extra="" grade="18" length="25m" name="Good Behaviour"
new="false" number=""
stars="**">If you're not on your best behaviour, you might get spanked! About 25m L of the southern descent gully, are a pair of twin cracks with a 4m high rock finger leaning against the wall. The RH flake crack on the arête above ends at 10m. Chimney up the back of the rock finger and climb to the top of the RH crack. Undercling L to the hand crack, which is followed to the top. E. Peacock, A. Herington, Sep. 1982.
</climb>
<climb
extra="" grade="19" length="20m" name="Electric Chair"
new="false" number=""
stars="*">A steep fist crack that takes the next line L of Incredible Journey. Up the thin crack to a small roof at 3m, turn it on its R to a ledge. Jam the crack past a small wedge shaped chockstone, to an offwidth move near the top. A. Herington, E. Peacock, Sep. 1982.
</climb>
<climb
extra="" grade="17" length="10m" name="Incredible Journey"
new="false" number=""
stars="">Just L of the descent gully is a short steep handcrack in a shallow groove. Climb the crack past an awkward move to the top. D. Stephenson, N. Deka, 1989.
</climb>
<climb
extra="" grade="22" length="20m" name="CC's" new="false"
number=""
stars="">On the R arête of the descent gully is a thin line that goes through a bulge and up the L edge of the prominent slab. Wires in the thin crack are good and the problem is best tackled by climbing the arête. From the top of the slab follow the easy yellow corner to top. Alternative start: Enchilada (15). Climb the big corner in the descent gully L of CC's to join up with the yellow corner. D. Gray, R. Parkyn, Jan. 1992.</climb>
<climb
extra="" grade="20" length="20m" name="Taco" new="false"
number=""
stars="">The original route on the prominent slab 2m R of CC's. Climb to the L of the stepped roofs, up a thin crack, to below a bulge. Face climb up the L side of the bulge to the small stance on top. Straight up the slab over the horizontal seam to the top (protect with a pin or a small camming unit). M. Law, G. Child, K. Carrigan, 1978. </climb>
<climb
extra="" grade="20" length="25m" name="Black Cherry" new="false"
number=""
stars="">Two metres L of Face It is a vegetated fist crack. Start 1m L of the crack as for Taco and climb up trending R past the stepped rooves. Reach R into the crack to place pro before bridging and laying away up past the bulge on Taco. Once back in the crack continue to the top, finishing up the final crack of Face It. A. Herington, E. Peacock, Oct. 1982.
</climb>
<climb
extra="" grade="20" length="25m" name="Face It" new="false"
number=""
stars="**">Stare the beast down. The crack 3m R of Black Cherry and immediately L of a hugely vegetated corner. Climb the crack past two blocky ledges to just below the base of a small vee groove near the top. Hand traverse L and finish up a short crack. M. Law, G. Child, S. Parsons, Feb 1978.
</climb>
<climb
extra="" grade="18" length="25m" name="Quarryman" new="false"
number=""
stars="">A vegetated corner that might require further gardening. The twin cracks between Face It and Play Dirty. An epic clean on lead. K. Robinson, P. Robinson Aug. 1999.
</climb>
<climb
extra="" grade="23" length="25m" name="Play Dirty" new="false"
number=""
stars="*">The lightly vegetated thin flared crack 3m R of the vegetated corner of Quarryman. Climb the crack and the shallow corner above. G. Child, K. Carrigan, 1978.
</climb>
<climb
extra="Þ" grade="24" length="16m" name="Metal Mania" new="false"
number=""
stars="*">Crank up the blunt arête between Play Dirty and Glam. Starts just L of Glam. Five BR's (carrots). R. Parkyn, Feb. 1992.
</climb>
<climb
extra="" grade="19" length="17m" name="Glam" new="false"
number=""
stars="*">The hand crack 6m around the arête R of Play Dirty and 25m L of Atlantis. This is the far L hand line in the semi-circle of buttresses L of Atlantis and has a short diagonal finger crack near the top. Hand jam to a small ledge. Pull up on face holds, then follow the finger crack to the top. Phil Steane, Pete Steane, Sep. 1982.
</climb>
<climb
extra="↓" grade="22" length="10m" name="The Space Of Disse"
new="false" number=""
stars="">A glorified boulder problem. The discontinuous thin crack 5m around the arête L of Atlantis. Up the sustained crack to the horizontal then rap off at the bolt. O. Prall, Jan. 1992.
</climb>
<climb
extra="" grade="21" length="25m" name="Atlantis" new="false"
number=""
stars="***">This is not the best crack climb on the mountain (as claimed by Joe Friend), but it's pretty darn good. L of Savage Journey is a dirty corner chimney and L of this is a fine looking north facing crack line passing between roofs. Climb the crack through various widths with the crux just below the top. J. Friend, Jan. 1975.
</climb>
<climb
extra="" grade="22" length="30m" name="Savage Journey"
new="false" number=""
stars="**">A classic test piece for the crack enthusiast, not for the faint hearted. On the gently overhanging wall R of Atlantis are two cracks, take the LH line. Climb the steep and ever widening crack, hand and fist jams all the way. H. Barber, Apr. 1975.
</climb>
<climb
extra="" grade="22" length="30m" name="Cruise Air" new="false"
number=""
stars="*">The RH crack on the slightly overhanging wall R of Atlantis. Climb the steep cracks, moving R at the obvious transition. Follow the crack to the top, which becomes offwidth. P. Bigg, S. Parsons, Apr. 1982.
</climb><image
new="false" number="null." src="lostworldRightPrint.jpg"
width="700">null</image>
<climb extra="Þ ↓" grade="29"
length="25m" name="Cheshire Cat" new="false" number=""
stars="***">The arête L of Lactos and R of Cruise Air. K. Robinson, Jan. 2004.</climb>
<climb
extra="↓" grade="21" length="22m" name="Lactos" new="false"
number=""
stars="*">The thin crack immediately L of a chimney just around the arête R of Cruise Air. Climb the steep crack line to a small ledge. Continue up a short corner to the top. Hard for the grade, but harder still if you don't use the R wall of the chimney. U-bolt rap station at the top. S. Parsons, P. Bigg, Apr. 1982.</climb>
<climb
extra="Þ ↓ " grade="" length="22m" name="GP Project" new="false"
number=""
stars="">Garry Phillips (2006) project immediately R of the abseil line.
</climb>
<climb
extra="Þ ↓" grade="25" length="20m" name="Carhookia" new="false"
number=""
stars="*">Start 3m R of the bottom of Lactos (where the abseil lands you). Optional natural gear at the bottom then 4 bolts to a lower-off. N. Selby, 2000. </climb>
<climb
extra="" grade="18" length="20m" name="Heavenly Head Job"
new="false" number=""
stars="">The fourth line L of Stone the Crows. The strange looking corner capped with a roof 7m R of Lactos. Bridge and jam the corner which becomes progressively harder. Hand jam the roof, step out L (awkward) and continue to the top. Phil Steane, Sep. 1982.
</climb>
<climb
extra="" grade="18" length="25m" name="Stone The Crows"
new="false" number=""
stars="">A tricky start that can flummox newcomers. Found 10m L of the central gully and marked by a conspicuous clean offwidth crack. Climb the short steep wall (difficult to protect) and continue up the wide crack above until a ledge is reached. Climb either of the two cracks to reach the top. L. Closs, I. Lewis, Mar. 1973.
</climb>
<climb
extra="" grade="15" length="8m" name="Cloaca" new="false"
number=""
stars="">On the southern wall of the central gully. Climb the hands to off width crack. D. Gray, D. Rossen. Jan. 1992.
</climb>
<climb
extra="" grade="21" length="17m" name="Drayton" new="false"
number=""
stars="">Starts via the bolts on Back on the Borderline and moves L and stems up the corner. Contrived. D. Gray, A. Hall. Jan. 1992.
</climb>
<climb
extra="Þ" grade="20" length="17m" name="Back On The Borderline"
new="false" number=""
stars="">Start on the northern wall of the central gully, about 5m L of Commoner's Crown. Climb the wall past 2 BRs, then finish up the handcrack. D. Gray, D. Rossen. Nov. 1990.
</climb>
<climb
extra="Þ" grade="23" length="17m" name="Naked Flame" new="false"
number=""
stars="">The arête 2m R of Back on the Borderline. Follow the line of 4 BRs up avoiding the tempting step onto the L wall. The third clip is pretty tenuous. D. Gray, D. Rossen. Jan. 1992.
</climb>
<climb
extra="" grade="17" length="25m" name="Commoners Crown"
new="false" number=""
stars="">The hand crack on the R hand side of the central gully. Jam to a large ledge and follow the often damp corner to the top. K. Kiernan, K. McConnell, Dec. 1975.
</climb>
<climb
extra="" grade="19" length="25m" name="Cries And Whispers"
new="false" number=""
stars="*">The front of the buttress to the R of the central gully. Hand jam to an awkward rest on a small stance between twin cracks. Follow the LH crack (crux) to the large ledge. Finish as for Commoners Crown. K. Lindorff, K. McConnell, Jan. 1976.
</climb>
<climb
extra="" grade="19" length="15m" name="Minstrel In The Gallery"
new="false" number=""
stars="">15m R of the central gully, twin cracks with an overhang halfway up the cliff. Jam the cleaner (it is still often slippery) RH crack. R. Muhlen, B. Kennedy, K. McConnell, Jan. 1977.
</climb>
<climb
extra="" grade="21" length="20m" name="Blood On The Racks"
stars="*">The short, thin crack a few metres L of Lost Wanderer. Up the crack past a thin section to a ledge. Continue L of the ledge easily to the top. K. Kiernan, S. Karpiniec, K. McConnell Dec. 1975. FFA: S. Parsons, D. Fife, P. Biggs, L. Sheppard, Jan. 1982.
</climb>
<climb
extra="" grade="12" length="15m" name="Technicolour Zawn"
stars="">The easy chimney/flake with the bush immediately R of Blood on the Racks. Phil Steane (solo), Jan. 1983.
</climb>
<climb
extra="" grade="18" length="25m" name="Lost Wanderer"
new="false" number=""
stars="***">Not hard to locate. The wall with two horizontal breaks about 50m R of the central gully. Climb the short crack on the L, traverse R on the horizontal breaks into the main crack, and follow this to the top. Direct start: From the fallen block at the base climb directly up the front of the buttress (difficult to protect) to join the main crack. I. Lewis, K. Carrigan, Apr. 1974. Direct start: L. Closs, Jul. 1975.
</climb>
<climb
extra="" grade="21" length="25m" name="Wander No More"
new="false" number=""
stars="">The crack on the R side of the arête below Lost Wanderer. Finish up Lost Wanderer from about half height. D. Gray, S. Eberhardt. Jan. 1992.
</climb>
<climb
extra="Þ ↓ " grade="28" length="20m" name="Gargamell"
new="false" number=""
stars="**">The arête R of Lost Wanderer. Delicately powerful moves with an engaging crux. Fully bolted. A. Williams, Jan. 2004</climb>
<climb
extra="" grade="14" length="27m" name="Hurricane"
stars="">15m R of Lost Wanderer, around the corner, is an obvious chimney with three large chockstones. Chimney and jam to the top. Basil Rathbone, R. Roffe, Feb. 1976.
</climb>
<climb
extra="" grade="21" length="20m" name="Great Southern Land"
new="false" number=""
stars="*">The corner with twin cracks above a scrubby ledge 15m R of Hurricane and around the arête L of Dyazide. Solo up past the scrub and onto the ledge and belay. Bridge and jam the twin cracks, finishing up the LH crack. Phil Steane, Pete Steane, Oct. 1982. FFA: G. Cooper, A. Adams, Feb. 1986.
</climb>
<climb
extra="" grade="26" length="20m" name="Endorphine"
stars="**">The arête to the L of Dyazide and R of Great Southern Land. K. Robinson, Jan. 2004
</climb>
<climb
extra="" grade="17" length="12m" name="Dyazide"
stars="*">The distinctive north facing crack starting from a ledge halfway up the cliff, L of a wide corner. Scramble up to the ledge from the R. Jam the hand crack to an awkward rest in the sentry box, exit up the finger crack (crux). P. Bigg, S. Parsons, D.Fife, 1982.
</climb>
<climb
extra="" grade="25" length="15m" name="Don't Eat Yellow Snow"
new="false" number=""
stars="*">Absorbing climbing. An old aid line that was freed in fine style. The second crack L of Adolf Builds A Bonfire and the third line R of Dyazide. The thin crack up the striped wall. Climb the crack with increasing difficulty. Small camming units required. Phil Steane, et al, Apr. 1983. FFA: M. Jackson, Feb. 1995.
</climb>
<climb
extra="" grade="18" length="15m" name="Adolf Builds A Bonfire"
new="false" number=""
stars="">The big corner L of Opportunity. Up the small slab then jam the corner. Phil Steane, A. Adams, Jan. 1983.
</climb>
<climb
extra="" grade="20" length="15m" name="Opportunity" new="false"
number=""
stars="*">Much to gain, so little pain. The overhung crack and sentry box 6m L of World Wide Adventure. Climb the crack past the sentry box to the sloping ledge at the top. The move onto the ledge is memorable. A. Adams, Phil Steane, Mar. 1983.
</climb>
<climb
extra="" grade="18" length="22m" name="World Wide Adventure"
stars="">The L facing corner below a scrubby ledge 15m L of Rosy Pink Cadillac. A prominent gum tree is growing out of the top crack. Layback corner, cross the ledge, jam to the gum tree (crux) and finish up the final groove. Phil Steane, N. Ward, Mar. 1983.
</climb>
<climb
extra="" grade="21" length="12m" name="Money In The Bank"
stars="">A safe investment. (1) 8m (21) climb the seam on the wall L of the Rosy Pink Cadillac offwidth. (2) 14m (12) Layback the large loose flake cautiously, finishing easily behind the buttress. (1) N. Ward, Phil Steane. (2) C. Maddock, Phil Steane, Apr. 1983. FFA: E. Peacock, 1983.
</climb>
<climb
extra="" grade="23" length="25m" name="Rosy Pink Cadillac"
new="false" number=""
stars="***">An old aid line gone free, following a thin crack up the front of the last major buttress on the R end of the cliff, L of Agent Orange Sunset. Climb the offwidth on the L then step R into the finger crack (bolt). At its top swing around L to finish. Direct start (25) climb directly up past a bolt runner to the finger crack. Direct finish (25) finish straight up past a bolt. M. McHugh, R. McMahon, 1971. FFA: M. Law, 1978. Direct start: S. Parsons, P. Bigg, D. Fife, Feb. 1983.
</climb>
<climb
extra="" grade="19" length="20m" name="Agent Orange Sunset"
stars="**">Unique and weird. Do it for the entertainment value. Tackles the prominent diagonal L leaning flake at the R end of the cliff. Struggle up the offwidth chimney 3m L of Paladin until you can traverse out L at the flake. Move up the flake to a roof, swing L around the arête and finish up an easy chimney. Phil Steane, Nov. 1982.
</climb>
<climb
extra="" grade="17" length="16m" name="Paladin" new="false"
number=""
stars="*">The short, steep, and slightly dirty hand crack at the far R of the cliff, just R of Agent Orange Sunset. Jam the crack. P. Morris, P. Cullen, Jan. 1977.
</climb>
<text
class="heading1">New World
</text>
<text class="intro"
new="false"
number="null.">Rock: Dolerite, up to 15m high, slightly off vertical.</text>
<text
class="intro" new="false"
number="null.">Access: This little crag (GPS: E0518464 N5252302), visible from the bend below the Chalet, is ten minutes walk from Lost World. The easiest route to the cliff is probably to follow the Yellow Spot Track across the boulder field in front of Lost World until it meets the Red Spot Track, just about directly opposite the Lactos abseil (GPS: E0518402 N5252142). Follow the yellow spots steeply down over the edge for about 50m and shortly after the track levels off (just before it veers off down again and to the R), a large cairn on the LH side (GPS: E0518478 N525 2106) marks a track that contours round to the north, marked by tape and occasional cairns, to two bolted arêtes. Alternatively, bush-bash down from the northern end of Lost World down to the top and rap off to reach the base... easier to describe, harder to do...</text>
<text
class="intro" new="false"
number="null.">Climbing Info: 13 routes, mostly bolted, offer a varied selection of cracks and bolted faces. Routes are described L to R and virtually all have initialed starts. Note that the BR's used here will not take the newer R angle RP brackets.</text>
<climb
extra="Þ ↓" grade="24" length="10m" name="Cranky Girl"
new="false" number=""
stars="*">The first climb on the craglet (GPS: 0518476 5252282) takes the arête of the column L of Dvorak Goes Metal. 3 U-bolts and Rap station. A. Williams, Jan. 2002 </climb>
<climb
extra="Þ" grade="20" length="12m" name="Dvorak Goes Metal"
new="false" number=""
stars="**">The route follows the superb looking RH arête, 5m R of Cranky Girl. Scramble to the base of the arête then launch onto the arête proper. Three bolts (carrots) protect the excellent face climbing above, single bolt belay. R. Parkyn, Apr. 1991.</climb>
<climb
extra="" grade="16" length="15m"
name="Friends With Cameras for Eyes" new="false" number=""
stars="*">Start about 12m R of the last climb. A few bouldery moves lead to a twin crack system. O. Prall, May 1991.
</climb>
<climb
extra="" grade="15" length="16m" name="Catcher In The Rye"
new="false" number=""
stars="">About 2m R of Friends et al. Hand jam to two blocks and a bush. Continue up the crack above until a traverse L across the wall to a "horn" can be made, to avoid an offwidth crack. Finish up the hand crack R of the arête. Phil Steane, R. deCesare, Nov. 1982.
</climb>
<climb
extra="Þ" grade="20" length="15m" name="Quintessence of Clarity"
new="false" number=""
stars="*">The face/arête just L of Pinkinsane. Climb the face or arête behind the myrtle to the BR (run out). Continue past the difficulties (crux) until it eases. Ascend easily and then finish with moves of varying degrees of difficulty. (2 BRs, carrots) Pro can be arranged in Pinkinsane to avoid initial runout. M. Perchard, May. 1991</climb>
<climb
extra="" grade="16" length="16m" name="Pinkinsane"
stars="">Jam the fist crack just R of the above route, terminating in an easy chimney. Phil Steane, R. deCesare, Nov. 1982.
</climb>
<climb
extra="Þ" grade="24" length="15m"
name="Would Jesus Play Guitar in a Thrash Metal Band"
new="false" number=""
stars="*">Rewarding and technical. Start 1m R of Pinkinsane. Climb the face past two bolts (carrots) on thin layaway holds (crux). Continue up the hand crack which begins at 7m. O. Prall, Apr. 1991.</climb>
<climb
extra="" grade="15" length="16m" name="Procol Harum" new="false"
number=""
stars="**">A pearler! Hand jam the line 4m R of Pinkinsane finishing up a short slab on the L. Phil Steane, R. deCesare, Nov. 1982.
</climb>
<climb
extra="Þ" grade="23" length="15m"
name="Toxastoma par Excellance" new="false" number=""
stars="**">A sustained and technical climb (if you stay on route) which climbs the face between Procol and Tales of Power. Using small holds and both arêtes climb to the base of the layback. Up this then move L (crux) to a finger crack. Up this for 3m, then finish back R up the blank wall above. (4 BRs, carrots). M. Perchard, Apr. 1991
</climb>
<climb
extra="" grade="17" length="16m" name="Tales Of Power"
stars="*">A thin start, followed by hand and pleasant offwidth jams. The line 2m R of Procol. Phil Steane, R. deCesare, Nov. 1982.
</climb>
<climb
extra="" grade="16" length="16m" name="Semi Detached Reality"
stars="">Steep hand jams, followed by a traverse into the LH line. The crack 4m R of Tales of Power that splits into two half way up. Phil Steane, R. deCesare, Nov. 1982.
</climb>
<climb
extra="" grade="20" length="20m" name="Parkynsane" new="false"
number=""
stars="">Starts just R of Semi Detached Reality. A wandering beginning leads to a thin crack near the R hand edge of the high orange wall. Climb the crack and arête just to the R. Well protected. R. Parkyn, Apr. 1991.
</climb>
<climb
extra="" grade="6 " length="16m" name="Barbwire Canoe"
stars="">The easy corner just R of the main cliff, finishing with a desperate move. Phil Steane, R. deCesare, Nov. 1982.
</climb>
<text
class="heading1">Test World
</text>
<text class="intro"
new="false"
number="null.">Rock: Dolerite face, about 15m high. It is not like us to be judgmental or disparaging but this is shite. It might be worth a visit if you are really, really bored with everything else on the mountain, or with life itself.
</text>
<text
class="intro" new="false"
number="null.">Access: Aaaagh! Located 150m to the south of Lost World, at the same altitude (GPS: E0518424 N5251928). From Good Behaviour scramble and bush-bash R (south) and down around a rock spur or two then back uphill to reach the crag. Alternatively a direct approach to the top as an offshoot from the usual route into Lost World from is less scrubby but very difficult to find. Take the GPS... and a machete... or flame thrower...
</text>
<text
class="intro" new="false"
number="null.">Climbing Info: The "crag" faces the Organ Pipes and is split by only 4 lines, the RH of which is vegetated with tea tree. Again, climbs are described from L to R.
</text>
<climb
extra="" grade="17" length="15m"
name="Six Months In A Leaky Test Tube" new="false" number=""
stars="">The LH line. Start behind the scrub and continue up the leftward trending crack. Phil Steane, G. Cooper, 1982.
</climb>
<climb
extra="" grade="14" length="15m" name="Testing One Two Three"
new="false" number=""
stars="">The chimney, second from the L, with a big chockstone at half height. Phil Steane, G. Cooper, 1982.
</climb>
<climb
extra="" grade="17" length="15m"
name="My Mother Was A Test Tube" stars="">The third crack with the awkward looking start. Up the crack to the ledge and continue easily to top. G. Cooper, Phil Steane, 1982.
</climb>
</guide>
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