<guide version="3">
<header autonumber="true" camping="" walk="20 min" sun="Not much sun" rock="Dolerite walls and cracks up to 80m" name="Bulging Buttress" intro="Bulging Buttress spans the wide-ranging area between Avalanche Couloir and Teardrop Gully. The buttress is divided into LH and RH sections by a centrally located prow. At the LH end close to Avalanche Couloir is SSSSI Wall, a hanging wall of quality looking lines that rises to join the main buttress to its right. Right of here on the LHS of the prow is a steep, clean wall (Black Magic area) on which several fine sport and trad routes reside. The prow has a pronounced step 25m off the ground that traverses left underneath this clean wall. On the RHS of the prow the routes are initially shorter and finish on the step. Further right the routes become longer before the cliff eventually merges into the natural continuation of Teardrop Gully. The quality of the rock right of the prow is definitely poorer than that on the LHS. " history="" acknowledgement="" access="Bulging Buttress is accessed from the climbers' carpark. Walk left along the Organ Pipes Track for approximately 400m arriving at the signposted Bulging Buttress/University Buttress track junction that heads right up a boulder field (GPS MTW070). Follow this climbers' track to where it meets the base of the cliff just right of the prow. This is the Jelly Wall area.<br/><br/>Following the track left provides access to routes between SSSI and Malignant Mushroom. Access to SSSI Wall is by following the track left around the prow, then traversing across and up to enter Avalanche Couloir. For access to routes in the Black Magic area follow the track left around the prow then up slightly to the base of the cliff.<br/><br/>For routes right of the prow, the climbers' track meets the cliff at the Jelly Roll area. To access routes in the Breaker Spur area follow the base of the cliff further right. <br/><br/>To descend climbs on this buttress, there are rap anchors on Mildly Amused (35m), Heat Pump (50m), Warm Glow (50m), Black Magic (47m and 35m: or 60m to bottom of access gully), Dal Nulla (30m), Jelly Roll (35m),Smoke and Mirrors (32m), and Breaker Spur area (50m and 37m)." id="1"/>
<text class="heading3" id="17">SSSSI Wall</text>
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<text class="text" id="19">A clean hanging black wall located right of Avalanche Couloir that offers quality steep routes. To gain access, climb 50m up Avalanche Couloir and scramble back R to the base of the wall. Descent from these routes is by the Mildly Mused rap station (35m) which is located on the southern side of the summit blocks.</text>
<climb name="SSSSI (Seriously Searching For Sanity but Suiciding Instead)" id="23" fa="K. Bischoff, G. Dixon, Feb 1981. FFA: S. Parsons, P. Bigg, and D. Fife freed the lower half in 1982; N. Deka and D. Stephenson freed the original aid line in Feb 1989." grade="22" length="40m" extra="↓" stars="***" number="1.">A quality free route courtesy of an old aid line. At the LH end of the wall is a clean steep corner capped by a roof at 20m. <br/>1. Climb the thin corner crack to the roof. Step L and up to belay on a small ledge. <br/>2. Climb easily up to the rap station on the block above. N.B. Any old pegs on the line should be ignored and preferably removed, as they are well past their use-by date.</climb>
<climb name="Mildly Amused" id="22" fa="R. Parkyn, Feb 1999." grade="25" length="35m" extra="Þ ↓" stars="***" number="2.">This route tends to remain dry even when the others on this wall are seeping. Start as for Beaten and Abused. At the horizontal break at 6m where Beaten and Abused goes R, go slightly L and up (tricky) into the crack above until the first U can be clipped. Undercling around the flake (crux) then continue up the face and arête above. Good natural pro is available in the crack (wires and cams), then 9 fixed anchors lead to a rap station.</climb>
<climb name="Beaten and Abused" id="21" fa="D. Stephenson, N. Deka, Pete Steane, Feb 1989." grade="22" length="40m" extra="↓" stars="***" number="3.">The sustained and classic LH start to the upper crack of Crazed and Confused. Start just R of the arête to the R of SSSSI, at the base of the black streaks. Layback the thin flake to the horizontal break, then move R and climb the hand and finger crack past a couple of bulges to a second horizontal break. Step R and finish up the widening crack as for Crazed and Confused.</climb>
<climb name="Crazed and Confused" id="20" fa="N. Deka, D. Stephenson, Feb 1989." grade="22" length="40m" extra="" stars="**" number="4.">The upper half of the wall is split by a prominent crack. Crazed and Confused is the RH variant. About 15m R of SSSSI, locate a large pedestal at the base of a steep black streaked wall. Climb the LH side of the pedestal. Launch off this and up a short steep wall (crux) until it is possible to step L into the prominent crack. Climb the crack and then mount the block on the L to a belay stance.</climb>
<text class="heading3" id="26">Black Magic Area</text>
<text class="text" id="27">Routes from Wizard to Warm Glow start from ground level. Routes from Lignum Vitae to Equipoise start from the prominent step, L of the prow. A 15m scramble up a weakness on the LH side of the prow provides access to the step.</text>
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<climb id="51" stars="*" extra="11p" number="5." name="Whatever" length="25m" grade="21" fa="Roger Parkyn, James Parkyn, Nov 2015. What's Left (LH variant): Roger Parkyn, Owen Gervasoni, Dec 2015. ">On the lump of rock left of The Wizard. Grunty work through the overhang (going rightwards) leads to some thinner moves on the arete (crux), continue up and then step left onto the ledge. Finish by lay-backing the fin of rock up to the anchors. <br/>Variant, "What's Left" (23): from the U at the overhang go straight up and climb through to the ledge on the left side of the arete.</climb>
<climb name="The Wizard" id="16" fa="K. Bischoff, P. Robinson, Feb 1981." grade="18" length="80m" extra="" stars="**" number="6.">A spell-binding route that is best after a dry spell. On the LH side of Bulging Buttress and obscured in the corner is a prominent line capped by a large overhang. Scramble up over blocks to the base of the line. <br/>1. 25m. Climb up to the overhang, pass it on the L and follow the steep crack to a ledge. <br/>2. 25m. Continue up a short, awkward corner to a large ledge then straight up to base of the black corner. <br/>3. 30m. A demanding pitch. Up the vee-chimney, jam through the bulge and continue pleasantly to the top. Descend by walking down Avalanche Couloir or arranging a tape abseil.</climb>
<climb name="Cold Power" id="15" fa="Pete Steane, D. Fife, Mar 1996." grade="21" length="30m" extra="↓" stars="***" number="7.">A scary start and a pumpy finish. This route is on the wall of the buttress R of The Wizard. It might be advisable to have your belayer stay down in the gully below to avoid the 4m horizontal fall factor 1.0 from the belay. Either way, if you fall off the bottom section your gear is unlikely to hold so take your pick: risk become a gurgling bloody mess via the 4m horizontal or painlessly take the 20m death plunge.</climb>
<climb name="Heat Pump" id="14" fa="R. Parkyn, N. Hancock, 2002." grade="22" length="50m" extra="Þ ↓" stars="***" number="8.">Leave your trad rack at home. Best on a warm day. <br/>1. 25m 18. Start about 10m L of the scramble up to Black Magic. Follow the line of U-bolts past the LH end of an overlap to ledge with DBB. <br/>2. 25m 22. Classy climbing between the arête and the prominent black streak on the LH side of the steep wall.</climb>
<climb id="52" stars="*" extra="" number="9." name="Smokin'" length="20 m" grade="20" fa="Roger Parkyn, James Parkyn, Steve Goss, Jan 2016. ">Climb the steep crack-line about 6 m right of the start of Heat Pump. Takes a range of gear from wires to #4 Camalot. Hardest near the bottom.</climb>
<climb name="Warm Glow" id="13" fa="R. Parkyn, D. McConnell, 2003." grade="21" length="50m" extra="Þ ↓" stars="*" number="10.">The second pitch runs parallel to Heat Pump's second pitch and ascends the wall 2m L of Lignum Vitae (LV).<br/>1. 25m 18. Start about 10m L of the scramble up to Black Magic and climb pitch one of Heat Pump to DBB.<br/>2. 25m 21. Ascend the steep face L of the LV chimney to a ledge with rap station.</climb>
<climb name="Lignum Vitae" id="12" fa="P. Jackson, R. McMahon, Jan 1971." grade="16" length="80m" extra="↓" stars="**" number="11.">Sharpen your trad techniques on this old school number. Follows the conspicuous black chimney in the centre of the steep and impressive wall. Scramble up the weakness and just below the top of the step move left to belay at the base of the chimney 10m L of Black Magic.<br/>1. 50m. Up the groove past three ancient pitons to a ledge at 35m near the Warm Glow (WG) rap station. Bridge R and make an intimidating move into the bottomless chimney. Continue up line to a a large ledge with a bollard belay. <br/>2. 30m. Climb the chimney at the back of the ledge then up slab to a small tea-tree at the base of double-cracks in a corner. Climb the cracks and finish via the left line up a short chimney to top. Descent: A 45m rap from threaded slings reaches the WG rap station. Then a 50m rap to base of cliff.</climb>
<climb name="Black Magic" id="11" fa="K. Carrigan, I. Lewis, Jan 1975." grade="18" length="53m" extra="↓" stars="***" number="12.">A Pipes classic that is now generally done as a single pitch. Takes the line R of centre on the steep south-facing wall. Scramble 15m up the weakness to the top of the step. Climb the slab to a stance below an over-hanging crack. Jam up and over a spike then up the crack to a ledge. A thoughtful move L and up into small niche is necessary to gain the base of a wide crack equipped with finger jams. Up and step right onto the wall then back left into the crack to reach the next ledge. Continue up the hand-crack to a pea-pod. Step R at this point to the prow and Black Magic rap station - 47m to top of the step, with a second rap (35m) from there to the ground.</climb>
<climb name="Magic Mushroom Variants" id="10" fa="Original Variant (2), G. Phillips, S. Young, Jan 2010, (1) T.McKenny, T. Meldrum, Jan 2011" grade="17" length="50m" extra="↓" stars="" number="13.">Well protected (and possibly a bit easier) variants to Black Magic (BM). Climb Black Magic to just above the bulge at about 15m, and step R onto the face, past a spike, and either 1) climb the crack on the LH side of the huge detached flake or 2) traverse R another metre and climb the off-width on the RH side of the flake. Continue directly up the face above via a fist and hand crack, trending R and finishing up the prow to the BM rap bolts.</climb>
<text class="text" id="48">The next three climbs share the same rap station down to the Jelly Roll rap station (30m).</text>
<climb name="Malignant Mushroom" id="9" fa="S. Parsons, S. Brennan, Apr 1981." grade="19" length="32m" extra="↓" stars="*" number="14.">A companion line to Black Magic that follows the RH end of the steep wall. Some loose rock. Belay off the Jelly Roll rap anchors on the step, 7m R of Black Magic. <br/>Climb up past a dangerous looking spike (or take the line just to the R) and follow the corner until level with a small roof. Traverse R on slopey rail and step around the prow. Move R slightly and up to DBB.<br/></climb>
<climb name="Equipoise" id="38" fa="H. Jackson , T. Smith, Feb 2013." grade="23" length="30m" extra="↓ " stars="**" number="15.">Climbs the arête R of Malignant Mushroom. Belay off the Jelly Roll rap anchors on the step, 7m R of Black Magic.<br/>Step R of the arête and ascend flake then arête with increasing difficulty and spaced protection to the overlap. Difficult moves past this, up past a bolt, then R to small ledge. Easier moves back on the arête lead to another ledge and up to the DBB .<br/></climb>
<climb name="Isonomy" id="49" fa="A. Donoghue, H. Jackson, Feb 2014." grade="24" length="30m" extra="↓ " stars="**" number="16.">Start R of Equipoise on the subsidiary ledge slightly below and R of the far RH end of Black Magic ledge where the belayer can see the route and the ropes run clear of the arête. Mainly bolted but take 1, 2 and 3 camelots. <br/>Climb arête to ledge at 2m, then diagonally R for 3 m to reach shallow R facing corner, up this then hard face moves to rest below roof. Direct through roof crux and up to rest 3m above roof. Up and slightly L on upper face to finish with Equipoise at DBB. <br/><br/></climb>
<text class="heading3" id="35">Jelly Wall</text>
<text class="text" id="29">The access track meets the cliff at the base of the next routes. They climb the wall just right of the prow and finish on the step in the buttress. They can be done as access routes to climbs starting from the step or as nice single pitch climbs in their own right. There are rap stations above Jelly Roll (35m), Smoke and Mirrors (32m) and Dal Nulla (30m).</text>
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<climb name="Eye for a Line" id="28" fa="T. McKenny, I. Snape, D. Humphries, Dec 2010." grade="16" length="34m" extra="↓" stars="" number="17.">The open corner to the left of Jelly Roll has been climbed. The rock quality is as good (or bad) as it looks... Climb either up the corner or the left wall, breaking out right round the arête where the rock quality finally deteriorates to suicidal. Finish up last few moves of Jelly Roll. Descent as for Jelly Roll.</climb>
<climb name="Jelly Roll" id="7" fa="S. Parsons, P. Bigg, Apr 1978." grade="17" length="35m" extra="↓" stars="*" number="18.">Great if you are a percussionist. For the rest of us, however, the tone emitted by tapping the flakes on this route is a tad scary. The route ascends the cracked wall below the step, on the right hand side of the prow. Start near the left edge of the wall. Climb the face to a crack, which is followed to gain the step of Bulging Buttress, below the start of Black Magic. Rap off (DBB 35m) or continue up another route.</climb>
<climb name="Breakneck" id="32" fa="M. Douglas, D. Cox , Nov 1962" grade="14" length="30m" extra="↓" stars="" number="19.">One of the earliest routes on the Pipes. Although the first pitch has recently (2013) had a bit of a make over, with much loose rock removed, it still requires care. Several upper pitches mentioned in the first Guide have never been identified. Start 3m right of Jelly Roll and climb the steep and in places loose crack. Finish on the step.</climb>
<climb name="Smoke and Mirrors " id="30" fa="I. Snape and T. McKenny, V. Keller, Dec. 2012." grade="15/19" length="32m" extra="↓" stars="*" number="20.">Start about 5m R of Jelly Roll, in the middle of the wall on good rock (directly under the lower abseil line from the step). Climb straight up the wall, either trending L at the final overhang and finishing up the last few metres of the Breakneck crack (15), or climb the roof direct and the terrific steep wall above (19) to the rap station (32m).</climb>
<climb name="Dal Nulla" id="40" fa="P. Robinson, C. (Basil) Rathbone, May 2013." grade="13" length="30m" extra="↓ " stars="" number="21.">Definitely worth a look. The corner cleft 2m right of Smoke and Mirrors. "Traditional" so watch out! Bridging and good holds lead past a jammed block to a bulge and short exit chimney to DBB. Rap: 30m.</climb>
<climb name="Crucio" id="31" fa="T. McKenny, I. Snape, Dec 2012." grade="17" length="30m" extra="↓" stars="**" number="22.">Takes a spellbinding line up the face of the pillar 5m to the right of Smoke and Mirrors, to left of Breaker Spur. Climb the open book corner and then take as direct line as possible up the exciting steep wall above, trending slightly right then left to gain the finger crack. Finish up left hand arête to the ledge and tree belay. Rap station to left above Dal Nulla (30m).<br/></climb>
<climb name="Humpty Dumpty" id="50" fa="P. Robinson, C. (Basil) Rathbone, Jan 2015." grade="14" length="30m" extra="↓ " stars="" number="23.">The line on the wall 2m right of Crucio. Scramble up to a small flat rock at the bottom of a hidden corner. Bridge easily up using big holds to the crack system splitting the wall above. Follow this and climb a short finger crack in the right wall (crux), move left and finish up the crack on the right. At the top go 2m left to belay as for Crucio. Rap off the Dal Nulla rap station to left (30m).<br/></climb>
<text class="heading3" id="25">Breaker Spur Area</text>
<text class="text" id="42">The next climbs start to the right of Jelly Wall.</text>
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<climb name="Breaker Chimney" id="5" fa=" T. Terry, K. Hall, Mar 1968. Direct finish: Basil Rathbone, P. Robinson, Apr 1979." grade="14" length="108m" extra="↓" stars="" number="24.">The prominent chimney high on the face to the R of Malignant Mushroom and L of Breaker Spur, Start 20m north of the nose of the buttress, as for Breaker Spur. <br/>1. 36m. As for Breaker Spur. <br/>2. 12m. Follow a short chimney just L of the crest, swing L and up a short nose to gain a terrace (as for Breaker Spur). <br/>3. 30m. Traverse L to the foot of the chimney, which is followed to a broad ledge. <br/>4. 30m. Two alternatives: (a) Original route: traverse L along the ledge and continue heading up, keeping towards the L skyline. Move R and scramble to the top; (b) Direct finish: follow the line directly above the chimney past a chockstone. Abseil via the Black Magic rap station.</climb>
<climb name="Breaker Spur" id="4" fa="M. Douglas, J. Fairhall, Jun 1967." grade="15" length="101m" extra="↓" stars="*" number="25.">A classic alpine style route, mostly following the prominent and narrow vertical rib 20m R of the prow. Start at the crack at the very foot of the spur.<br/>1. 36m. Climb the crack and then the rib mainly to the L of the arête. At the 1st platform, walk a couple of metres to the RH end of the blank wall and climb up and R to a 2nd platform. Belay at the LH end of the 2nd platform, on the crest of the spur.<br/>2. 24m. Up a short chimney just L of the crest, passing an old rusty peg (still there 2012), and climb a short nose to a terrace. Continue up towards a prominent corner.<br/>3. 26m. Various alternatives, all a bit vegetated: <br/> (a) Climb straight up the corner for 8-10m, move R into the next line and follow this to a ledge with two U bolts on the wall. (Climbed and cleaned in Nov. 2012)<br/> (b) Climb straight up the crack and follow the corner to a ledge.<br/> (c) Move L up the chimney and exit through the bulge;<br/> (d) Move L and up the rib on sloping ledges;<br/>Either abseil from the U bolts at the top of pitch 3 (50m) followed by a 2nd abseil (two U bolts, 37m) to the ground or:<br/>4. 15m. Up the gully to the L over a couple of jammed blocks to a big established gum. Traverse L round the corner to a short gully above the Black Magic rap bolts. Climb down to the bolts and abseil off.</climb>
<climb name=" Indian Summer " id="39" fa="T. McKenny, P. Robinson (alt), April 2013." grade="16" length=" 49m" extra="" stars="**" number="26.">Short, entertaining and varied pitches on generally sound, steep rock. Micro-cams come in useful on the first pitch and a large cam is comforting on the second pitch. Start at the toe of the spur, just to the R of Breaker Spur crack line.<br/>1. 20m 15. Climb easily up the horizontals and then straight up the face of the spur to below a small roof. Hand traverse R and up to belay in the bottom of the corner.<br/>2. 17m 15. Follow the crack, with its hidden surprises, and pull up over the jammed block. From the RH end of the platform climb up and R to DBB. <br/>3. 12m 16. Climb the crack on the L till a move can be made out onto the LH arête, keeping the hollow sounding flakes well to the R. Exposed climbing up the arête and wall to belay on a fin of rock. Finish up Breaker Spur or rap off.<br/>Descent: Rap station to bottom (49m). <br/><br/></climb>
<text class="text" id="44">The next climb takes the short red arête to the R of the second pitch of Indian Summer.</text>
<climb name="Spice Trade" id="45" fa="L. Martin, T. Smith, Feb 2014." grade="19" length="19m" extra="" stars="" number="27.">Start from the LH end of Cracked Pepper "ledge" or step R as an alternative 2nd pitch to Indian Summer. Climb the lovely little arête on minimal protection until it re-joins Indian Summer to DBB. A 6-7m run-out above dodgy gear might be a bit too spicy for most. Either finish up Indian Summer or rap off (37m).</climb>
<climb name="Cracked Pepper" id="33" fa="I. Snape, T. McKenny (alt.), A. Adams, Dec 2012." grade="17" length="46m" extra="" stars="**" number="28.">Access to the route involved significant floral landscaping! A strong line up the L facing black corner 10m R of Breaker Spur. Scramble up steeply to start at the "ledge" on the L. Possibly best climbed as one long sustained pitch - but take plenty of mid-sized cams.<br/>1. 26m 17. Easy climbing up to the base of the crack which is climbed using the L face and R arête until face holds on the L wall lead to the hakea above the small roof. Climb past tree and up and L to triple bolt belay.<br/>2. 20m 16. Step back R into the corner and climb the terrific crack line, gently over the Sword of Damocles, to belay at a spike on a ledge on the L. Abseil from rap station down the line ( 46m).</climb>
<climb name="Breakout" id="3" fa="G. Kowalik, P. Robinson, Mar 1979." grade="13" length="105m" extra="" stars="" number="29.">Scene of the departure of a very large rock. On the wall 10m R of Breaker Spur find a bottomless chimney about 30m above the ground. Now heavily vegetated.<br/>1. 24m. Up a series of loose, vegetated walls to a tree covered ledge beneath the chimney. <br/>2. 30m. Climb the bottomless chimney and up the line to belay on a large ledge. <br/>3. 27m. Up the walls above, trending slightly L at the top to a jam crack. <br/>4. 24m. Easier climbing to the top.</climb>
<climb name="Hormesis" id="47" fa="H. Jackson, A. Donoghue, Mar 2014." grade="20" length="48m" extra="" stars="" number="30.">"What doesn't kill you makes you stronger. Add a grade if you’re not used to loose rock and long run-outs - add a star if adventure is all that matters to you. Many loose pieces are used in the process of climbing - the loose bits are fairly large, while the surfaces are good quality - Hamish" <br/>The name really says it all - you have been warned. It would be prudent for belayers to stand out of the possible line of fire...<br/>Start as for Breakout and climb up the dense vegetation to the airy face above. Follows a line just R of the Breakout chimney though some small roofs and open faces reaching a ledge on the L at 40m, then back R onto the face again to finish at larger ledge. Descent: traverse easily L to Cracked Pepper rap station (48m to base of line).</climb>
</guide>
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