<guide guidestars="*" pagesize="300">
<header id="143" name="Elderslie" walk="5-20 min" sun="Mixed" rock="Sandstone" intro="The bouldering at Elderslie is on sandstone boulders and is quite good but has always had access issues. It was originally discovered by Mike Berry and developed by Stu Bowling & friends in early 2001. The area got some more life in 2006 with the discovery of the Gully by Jon Nermut and Dave Humphries, and then later the Arch and the Terrace." access="To get there drive up the Midlands Highway from Hobart towards Brighton. Take the left hand road just before Brighton (Elderslie Road). Follow this road for 15 minutes or so before reaching Elderslie (not much more than a few farms and a golf club). Take a right a few kilometres out of Elderslie (Clifton Vale Road) and follow this dirt road for about 5 kilometres before reaching a Y intersection; take the right road (to Dysart), you will go up a rise and then the road will go down again, at the bottom of this hill on the left is the fire trail about 1 kilometre from the intersection. (Note: This first area is now mostly inaccessible, unless you can convince the new landowners otherwise!). You walk up here for 100m or so and then to your left is Slug Rock (amongst the trees) and the Ant Rocks are about 100m uphill from here. Drive on another 200m or so and on the right is the pullover next to the creek, opposite the obvious Roadside boulders. Park here to access the Block (access at your own risk!) and Forbidden Forest areas. For the Gully area, continue on the road past the Roadside boulder for another couple of hundred metres, around the corner. Park at a large pull-out on the left."/>
<image src="Elderslieemap1.jpg" id="3" height="443"/>
<gps id="140">
<point code="ELB100" description="The Gully carpark" easting="507160" northing="5287060" height="0" zone="55G" latitude="-42.56883" longitude="147.08724" pid="0"/>
<point code="ELB120" description="Butterflies Boulder" easting="507750" northing="5286930" height="0" zone="55G" latitude="-42.57000" longitude="147.09443" pid="1"/>
<point easting="507835" code="ELB140" description="Elderslie Arch" northing="5286875" height="0" zone="55G" latitude="-42.57049" longitude="147.09546" pid="2"/>
</gps>
<text class="heading2" new="false" number="null." id="5">Roadside Boulders</text>
<text class="text" new="false" number="null." id="6">There are 4 or so obvious freestanding boulders right by the parking area. These have never been developed properly. There are probably about 10 problems to be done here, but they need some cleaning. They are literally 10m from the road, and there is no fence, so access should not be an issue.</text>
<text class="heading2" id="7">The Block</text>
<image src="Elderslieblockmap.jpg" id="8" height="449"/>
<text class="text" new="false" number="null." id="9">Park at the pullover on the right side of the road just before the roadside boulders and walk along the road for about 50m, there is a bit of a track up to the left. Walk to the top of this first small hill to reach the Block via other boulders including the Voltage boulder. Many new problems still await ascents in this area though rock quality might not be as good as some of the more established problems. These boulders are presumably on the same land as the Ant and Slug boulders, and so have the same access problems, but they are a bit further away from the house.</text>
<text class="heading3" id="10">Block Boulder</text>
<image src="ElderslieElderslie_topos_blockA.jpe" id="11" height="359"/>
<problem extra=" " grade="V1" name=" " number="1." stars=" " id="12">Sit start up arete</problem>
<problem extra=" " grade="V2" name=" " number="2." stars=" " id="13">Sit start on pocket</problem>
<problem extra=" " grade="V3" name=" " number="3." stars=" " id="14">From pocket and slope to top</problem>
<problem extra=" " grade="V3" name=" " number="4." stars=" " id="15">Sit start just right of arete</problem>
<problem extra=" " grade="V2" name=" " number="5." stars=" " id="16">Up arete</problem>
<problem extra=" " grade="V5+" name="The Urvile" number="6." stars="*" id="17">Sit start, up to slopey break and top out.</problem>
<problem extra=" " grade="V8" name=" " number="7." stars=" " id="18">Stand start up middle of face</problem>
<problem extra=" " grade="V3" name=" " number="8." stars=" " id="19">Up just left of arete</problem>
<problem extra=" " grade="V4" name=" " number="9." stars=" " id="20">Sit start to top out</problem>
<text class="heading3" id="21">Yellow Boulder</text>
<image src="ElderslieElderslie_topos_InfrontBlockA.jpe" id="22" height="176"/>
<problem extra=" " grade="V2" name=" " number="1." stars=" " id="23">Jump to jugs, top out</problem>
<problem extra=" " grade="V5" name=" " number="2." stars=" " id="24">Sit start-crimp-jugs-topout</problem>
<problem extra=" " grade="V3" name=" " number="3." stars=" " id="25">Highball up blunt arete</problem>
<problem extra=" " grade="V6" name=" " number="4." stars=" " id="26">Start at back of roof</problem>
<text class="heading3" id="27">Others</text>
<problem extra=" " grade="V4" name=" " number="10." stars=" " id="28">Stand start on side pull with left, pop to top</problem>
<problem extra=" " grade="V?" name=" " number=" " stars=" " id="29">Project, sit start to 10</problem>
<problem extra=" " grade="V8+" name="Voltage" number="11." stars="*" id="30">Up slightly overhanging face on very thin holds. Distinctive triangular face on the way to the Block.</problem>
<text class="heading2" id="31">Slug Rock</text>
<text class="access" id="32">Park at the bottom of the fire trail on the left. Walk up the fire trail for about 200m before shooting off to the left for about 80m, if you get to the top of the hill you've gone to far. Access is now an issue to this area as a house has been built just down hill from Slug Rock. Confirm accessibility with land owners before climbing.</text>
<text class="heading3" id="33">Slug Rock</text>
<image src="Elderslieslug1.jpg" id="34" height="178"/>
<problem extra=" " grade="VE" name=" " number="1." stars=" " id="35">Easy, up slab</problem>
<problem extra=" " grade="V3" name=" " number="2." stars=" " id="36">Start in corner and up</problem>
<problem extra=" " grade="V6" name=" " number="3." stars=" " id="37">Sit start on crimps</problem>
<problem extra=" " grade="V6" name=" " number="4." stars=" " id="38">Sit start on crimps up to finger lock</problem>
<text class="heading3" id="39">Ant Boulder</text>
<text class="access" id="40">The ant boulder is just up the hill from Slug Rock and Boulder 2 is just around the hill from Slug Rock</text>
<image src="Elderslieant.jpg" id="41" height="359"/>
<problem extra=" " grade="V1" name="Bogus" number="1." stars=" " id="42">Stand start at jugs. Up through good holds to top out.</problem>
<problem extra=" " grade="V3+" name="Ant Trail" number="2." stars=" " id="43">Stand start. Up through good edges, slopey top out.</problem>
<problem extra=" " grade="V4" name=" " number="3." stars=" " id="44">Sit start on small edges, move left before trending right to top out on good holds.</problem>
<problem extra="(SDS)" grade="V4+" name="Goldfinger" number="4." stars="*" id="45">Sit start under small roof. Move through reasonable edges, dyno to lip, mantle top out.</problem>
<text class="heading3" id="46">Boulder 2</text>
<text class="text" id="47">This outcrop is just to the left of Slug rock.</text>
<image src="Elderslieboulder2.jpg" id="48" height="178"/>
<problem extra=" " grade="V3" name=" " number="1." stars=" " id="49">Sit start on lip of small cave. Up through good holds trending left to slopey top out.</problem>
<problem extra=" " grade="V4" name=" " number="2." stars=" " id="50">Same as for 1, trending right slightly to worse top out.</problem>
<problem extra=" " grade="V5" name="Watch Me" number="3." stars=" " id="51">Stand start at good holds at half height. Straight up through reasonable holds to crux slopey top out. Good spotting required.</problem>
<text class="heading2" id="52">Forbidden Forest</text>
<text class="text" new="false" number="null." id="53">The Forbidden Forest is currently off limits to climbing. Do not climb here without permission.</text>
<text class="access" id="54">Park as for the block area and walk across the paddock, obviously not in the poppy season. Cross the creek (sometimes dry) and turn left up towards the fence line, follow this (and the overhead power lines) until you get to a gate on the left. Go through this and continue along the fence / power line and the 4WD track for another 100m or so. The boulders are up to the left amongst the trees, the first to come into sight is the overhang with problem 1. on it. As with all the climbing at Elderslie, the Forbidden Forest is on private land. To gain permission call into the white house marked on the map.</text>
<image src="Elderslieforb.JPG" id="55" height="472"/>
<problem extra="(SDS)" grade="V8" name="Red Dragon" number="1." stars=" " id="56">The first problem to come into view when walking along the 4WD track, climbs out through the roof, trending left via sloper at the top.</problem>
<problem extra=" " grade="V?" name=" " number="2." stars=" " id="57">There are various problems up this face</problem>
<problem extra=" " grade="V?" name=" " number="3." stars=" " id="58">Project, up left arete</problem>
<problem extra=" " grade="V9" name=" " number="4." stars=" " id="59">Sit start up wall</problem>
<problem extra="(SDS)" grade="V9" name="Sams Arete" number="5." stars="*" id="60">Sit start on edges to slopey lay back, dyno to jug. Powerful and hard as is to be expected.</problem>
<image src="Elderslieslowtwitch.jpg" id="61" height="300"/>
<problem extra="(SDS)" grade="V8+" name="Slow twitch" number="6." stars="**" id="62">Sit start trending slightly right on small edges. Dyno for jug at lip.</problem>
<image src="Eldersliescopion.jpg" id="63" height="300"/>
<problem extra=" " grade="V3/4" name="Scorpion" number="7." stars=" " id="64">Campus out to lip and left. A bit scary, use some mats.</problem>
<problem extra="(SDS)" grade="V3/4" name="Jerry the Belly Button Elf" number="8." stars=" " id="65">Sit Start, up the right hand side of the short black wall.</problem>
<problem extra=" " grade="V2" name=" " number="9." stars=" " id="66">Sit start up middle of wall</problem>
<problem extra="(SDS)" grade="V2" name="Tuna Brillo" number="10." stars=" " id="67">Up middle of sandy cave via slopes and layaway to top. Attentive spotters!</problem>
<problem extra=" " grade="V2" name=" " number="11." stars=" " id="68">Up wall around arete from sandy cave</problem>
<problem extra=" " grade="V8" name="Wrap it" number="12." stars=" " id="69">Sit start double pinching, up via edges and arete.</problem>
<problem extra=" " grade="V4" name=" " number="13." stars=" " id="70">Stand start up arete just right of 12</problem>
<problem extra="(SDS)" grade="V6" name="California Girls" number="13a." stars="*" id="71">Sit start 2m right of arete and climb left into no 13. on crimps.</problem>
<problem extra=" " grade="V2" name="Pavlova" number="14." stars=" " id="72">Up middle of face on positive edges.</problem>
<image src="Elderslieelmo.jpg" id="73" height="375"/>
<problem extra=" " grade="V1" name=" " number="15." stars=" " id="74">Up wall</problem>
<problem extra=" " grade="V1" name=" " number="16." stars=" " id="75">Up wall</problem>
<problem extra="(SDS)" grade="V4" name="Elmos world" number="17." stars="**" id="76">Sit start left of arete on good holds. Move straight up (no arete) on good holds to lip.</problem>
<problem extra=" " grade="V2+" name="The Pox" number="18." stars=" " id="77">Up mossy face on small crumbly edges. Poxy!</problem>
<problem extra=" " grade="V5" name=" " number="19." stars=" " id="78">Up smooth slightly overhanging face</problem>
<problem extra="(SDS)" grade="V7" name="Locust Abortion Technician" number="20." stars="*" id="79">Sit start on jug, move left, up around bulge.</problem>
<problem extra="(Highball, Stand)" grade="V0" name="Big Al's Meat Patties" number="20a." stars=" " id="80">High ball up crusty side of largest boulder.</problem>
<text class="access" id="81">These problems are in the cave, described from left to right.</text>
<problem extra=" " grade="V5" name="Cams Dyno" number="21." stars=" " id="82">Dyno from the jug to the top.</problem>
<problem extra=" " grade="V6" name=" " number="22." stars=" " id="83">Start with left heel on the jug in 21 and hands on crimps, move right on edges and up.</problem>
<problem extra=" " grade="V8" name=" " number="23." stars=" " id="84">Start at back of cave and climb out on small edges.</problem>
<text class="heading2" new="false" number="null." id="85">The Gully</text>
<text class="text" new="false" number="null." id="86">The Gully is a new area that is under development. Unlike most of Elderslie, the boulders are on Crown land, so access shouldn't be as much of an issue. There is a large amount of wildlife in the gully, including snakes and wallabies, so dogs probably aren't a good idea. To get there, continue on the road past the Roadside boulder for another couple of hundred metres, around the corner. Park at a large pull-out on the left. Go through the gate on the opposite side of the road, and cross the river at the ford (usually OK except after rain). Head across the paddock to the entrance to the valley. Once through the gate, head left up the hill to where it flattens out. Follow the fairly flat and clear area up the valley, until you find the first boulder (Crystal Boulder). Total walking time about 10 minutes.</text>
<text class="heading3" new="false" number="null." id="87">Crystal Boulder</text>
<image new="false" number="null." src="crystal.jpg" width="" id="88" height="375">null</image>
<problem extra="(SDS)" grade="V0" name="" new="false" number="1." stars="" id="89">Left arete</problem>
<problem extra="(Stand)" grade="V5" name="The Crystal" new="false" number="2." stars="**" id="90">Sloper problem in middle of face. The obvious sit start is a project.</problem>
<problem extra="(SDS)" grade="V1" name="" new="false" number="3." stars="" id="91">Jugs to the right. Pretty dirty.</problem>
<text class="heading3" new="false" number="null." id="92">Third Turd Boulder</text>
<image new="false" number="null." src="thirdturd.jpg" width="" id="93" height="176">null</image>
<text class="text" new="false" number="null." id="94">There are a couple of slab problems on the next boulder along from the Crystal Boulder.</text>
<problem extra="(Stand)" grade="V3?" name="Third Turd" new="false" number="1." stars="" id="95">Slab 1m left of arete</problem>
<problem extra="(Stand)" grade="VE" name="" new="false" number="2." stars="" id="96">Arete</problem>
<problem extra="(Stand)" grade="VE" name="" new="false" number="3." stars="" id="97">Right of arete</problem>
<text class="heading3" new="false" number="null." id="98">Paydirt Boulder</text>
<text class="text" new="false" number="null." id="99">Keep going through the trees from Third Turd to find this boulder.</text>
<image new="false" number="null." src="paydirt.jpg" width="" id="100" height="219">null</image>
<problem extra="(SDS)" grade="V0" name="" new="false" number="1." stars="" id="101"/>
<problem extra="(SDS)" grade="V0" name="" new="false" number="2." stars="" id="102">Left arete</problem>
<problem extra="(Stand)" grade="V1" name="" new="false" number="3." stars="" id="103">Mantle</problem>
<problem extra="(Stand)" grade="V1" name="" new="false" number="4." stars="" id="104">Swing start up to highest part of boulder</problem>
<problem extra="(SDS)" grade="V3/4" name="Paydirt" new="false" number="5." stars="*" id="105" length="" fa="">Right arete of steep face. Sit start, throw for juggy lip and top out.<br/>*Previous starting hold has broken off, what used to be hang started can now be sit started*</problem>
<problem extra="(SDS)" grade="V2" name="" new="false" number="" stars="" id="106">Short arete on back of boulder.</problem>
<text class="heading3" new="false" number="null." id="107">Butterflies Boulder</text>
<text class="text" new="false" number="null." id="108">From Paydirt, head further along then up the hill to find this large boulder.</text>
<image new="false" number="null." src="butterfliesfront.jpg" width="" id="109" height="369">null</image>
<problem extra="(SDS)" grade="V4" name="Butterflies" new="false" number="1." stars="*" id="110">Steep start in under arete, then step left onto slab and top out.</problem>
<image new="false" number="null." src="butterfliesback.jpg" width="" id="111" height="375">null</image>
<text class="text" new="false" number="null." id="112">This is the back side of the Butterflies boulder.</text>
<problem extra="(SDS)" grade="V3" name="" new="false" number="1." stars="*" id="113">Left hand side of steep face</problem>
<problem id="166" stars="**" extra="(SDS)" number="1b" name="Three Plus Six is Five" length="" grade="V5" fa="">Start as for V3 and finish up If Six Was Nine</problem>
<problem extra="(SDS)" grade="V6" name="If Six Was Nine" new="false" number="2." stars="***" id="114">Sit start off opposing side pulls in middle of steep face, up on edges.</problem>
<problem id="167" stars="***" extra="(SDS)" number="3a" name="Face full of rug" length="" grade="V8" fa="T. Anderson">Start as for If Six Was Nine and finish up top right of boulder via bad slopers.</problem>
<problem extra="(SDS)" grade="V?" name="" new="false" number="3." stars="" id="115">Project - right arete</problem>
<text class="heading3" new="false" number="null." id="116">Centipede Boulder</text>
<text class="text" new="false" number="null." id="117">This is the next boulder across the hill from Butterflies Boulder, and is visible from the back of Butterflies.</text>
<image new="false" number="null." src="centipede.jpg" width="" id="118" height="314">null</image>
<problem extra="(SDS)" grade="VE" name="" new="false" number="1." stars="*" id="119">Nice easy jugs on the bottom of the boulder</problem>
<problem extra="(Stand)" grade="V2" name="Centipede" new="false" number="2." stars="" id="120">Left hand side of high face</problem>
<problem extra="(SDS)" grade="VE" name="" new="false" number="4." stars="" id="121">Easy problem up to the right</problem>
<text class="heading3" new="false" number="null." id="122">Scorpion Boulder</text>
<text class="text" new="false" number="null." id="123">This boulder is 30m along from Centipede, and a bit higher up the hill.</text>
<image new="false" number="null." src="scorpion.jpg" width="" id="124" height="375">null</image>
<problem extra="(Stand)" grade="V2" name="" new="false" number="1." stars="" id="125">Mantle on slopers</problem>
<problem extra="(SDS)" grade="V2" name="" new="false" number="2." stars="" id="126">Big move from undercling to good holds</problem>
<problem extra="(SDS)" grade="V3" name="Scorpion" new="false" number="3." stars="" id="127">Up steep bottom face of boulder</problem>
<text class="heading3" new="false" number="null." id="128">Pine Boulder</text>
<text class="text" new="false" number="null." id="129">Pine Boulder is about 50m across the hill from Scorpion Boulder, on about the same level.</text>
<problem extra="(SDS)" grade="V1" name="Pine" new="false" number="" stars="*" id="130">Left arete of bottom face</problem>
<problem extra="(SDS)" grade="V0-" name="" new="false" number="" stars="*" id="131">Right arete</problem>
<text class="text" new="false" number="null." id="132">There are several more boulders up the gully waiting for development.</text>
<text class="heading3" new="false" id="133">The Elderslie Arch</text>
<text class="text" new="false" id="134">The Elderslie Arch is a super cool ten metre long arch of good quality sandstone. To get there head 100m uphill from the 'Butterflies' boulder to the ridge top, then walk another 100m till you see the arch.</text>
<problem extra="(Stand)" grade="V5" name="Full Traverse L to R" new="false" number="" stars="***" id="135">A classic! Start from left end and head right till you get back on the ground. Six or more pads recommended so you can caterpillar them along safely. Can be done R to L as well at about the same grade.</problem>
<problem extra="(Stand)" grade="V3" name="The Fire of Life" new="false" number="" stars="**" id="136">Start on left side, bust out a few steep moves then top out where it starts getting hard to traverse and easy to head for jugs straight up.</problem>
<problem extra="(SDS)" grade="V2" name="The Rainbow Connection" new="false" number="" stars="***" id="137">Start on the right base at pocket, head left till you get to about the middle (where its obvious to do a beached whale move). Fun and airy!</problem>
<problem extra="(Stand)" grade="V5" name="Smooth Latin Groove" new="false" number="" stars="**" id="138">Start on right side on down hill side at big horizontal (don't use the big tongue of rock as it is super fragile). Bust up good holds then a powerful move to big undercling out right. Head right on undercling to top out in groove on uphill side.</problem>
<problem extra="(Stand)" grade="V3" name="Let that Boy Boogie Woogie" new="false" number="" stars="*" id="139">Start as for Smooth Latin Groove but head straight up toward good hold on arete, top out. Don't fall off!</problem>
<text id="141" class="heading2">The Terrace</text>
<text id="142">The Terrace is a good little north facing area high on the hillside overlooking the next valley north of The Gully. To get there park and cross the paddock as for the Gully. Instead of heading up the valley, head left and up the hill to find a gap in the small cliffs. Head straight up the hill until you can see into the next valley. Then turn right and walk along the ridge (east) until you find the boulders. The boulders are described roughly west to east, as you come to them.</text>
<text id="144" class="heading3">Tommy's Boulder</text>
<text id="145">A steep boulder with some good problems.</text>
<problem id="146" name="Project" grade="V?" stars="" extra="" number="" length="" fa="">Start as for Reibung, move left onto left-trending line of small holds and finish via lip straight up</problem>
<problem id="147" grade="V4" extra="(Stand)" stars="*" number="" name="Reibung" length="" fa="T. Krauss, 2012">Up from the big sloper and then traverse left along the lip. Sit start is a project.</problem>
<problem id="148" grade="V4" extra="(SDS)" stars="*" number="" name="Wunderbar" length="" fa="T. Krauss, 2012">Sit start at the right side of the boulder then move left all the way along the lip and finish as for Reibung</problem>
<problem id="149">These two problems are on a face on the back wall just to the right of a roof.</problem>
<problem id="150" grade="V0" extra="(Stand)">Left side of face</problem>
<problem id="151" grade="V0">Right side of face.</problem>
<text id="152" class="heading3">Terrace Boulder</text>
<problem id="153" number="1." grade="V1" extra="(SDS)">Left side of E face.</problem>
<problem id="154" number="2." grade="V1" extra="(SDS)" stars="*">Nice arete</problem>
<problem id="155" number="3." grade="V2" extra="(SDS)">Start on right side of arete, up to ramp then move right and up.</problem>
<problem id="156" number="4." name="Project" extra="(SDS)" grade="V?">Sit start on big holds and up thin face.</problem>
<problem id="157" number="5." grade="V3" extra="(Stand)">Start on big diagonal hold just left of arete</problem>
<problem id="158" number="6." grade="V1" extra="(SDS)">Silly little problem just right of arete</problem>
<text id="159" class="heading3">Winter is Coming Area</text>
<text id="160">These are the problems around the distinctive bulge of Winter is Coming.</text>
<problem id="161" stars="***" number="1." name="Winter is Coming" grade="V4" extra="(SDS)">Great holds out through the bulge.</problem>
<problem id="162" number="2." grade="V3" extra="(SDS)">The little prow to the right of Winter is Coming.</problem>
<problem id="163" number="3." grade="V2" extra="(SDS)">Jugs around to the right.</problem>
<problem id="164" number="4." grade="V1" extra="(Stand)">Nice stand start on chicken heads.</problem>
</guide>
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