<guide version="2" pagesize="500"> <header id="1" name="South Sister" autonumber="true" camping="St Mary's has free camping at the recreation ground which has good toilet facilities, water and showers. The pub is also great and affordable." walk="10 mins" sun="" rock="Vertical dolerite buttresses, up to 25m" intro="Situated at the eastern end of the Nicholas Range, above St. Marys lies South Sister, a beautiful rocky peak rising to 832m, with transmission masts and fire tower on top. Typical dolerite crags abound on the mountain offering some excellent climbs, with a strong emphasis on cranking cracks, as well as some varied routes. The rock is generally sound, and existing routes are clean, but care should still be taken of loose rock. Most routes are naturally protected, so a full rack including hexs and cams is necessary. As the crags face different directions the decision where to climb may depend on: weather conditions, time of year, and time of day. West facing crags are best in summer, especially afternoons, whereas the eastern facing crags are good any time, especially in winter, when the cold westerlies whistle over the top of the mountain and the rock is bathed in winter sun, it is generally dry, though not recommended during an easterly. The crags have a friendly atmosphere, are a great place to perfect your jamming skills and are a good training ground for longer routes, as many cracks are single pitch yet sustained. On a clear day, views of the east coast from Freycinet to Flinders Islands, The Fingal Valley and the mountains of the North East can be gained. The flora, fauna, geology, etc. are fascinating, but that's another story, enjoy this magical place and stay safe." history="To my knowledge, South Sister was first visited by climbers in the early 80's by K Bischoff and A Wing then later in 1984 when the party R McMahon, G Narkowicz, D Kearnes, & H Mohler etc. led some excellent lines on the largest North facing buttress; Canyon Buttress. The mountain may have received visits after this initial period, but its climbing potential was rediscovered in Autumn 1995 by myself, P Wines & P Witton, accessing new crags, cleaning cracks, and putting up new routes. Many un-described lines and problems have been top-roped, due to lack of placements or too hard." acknowledgement="by Ashley Mason, originally published in Craglets. 2023 updates and topos by C. Speer." access="From St. Marys, go up Franks / Germantown Road opposite the pub. Follow the gravel road for about 4km until you see a turn-off turn to the left up to South Sister lookout. All outcrops are described in an anticlockwise direction around the mountain, from the main track, and climbs from left to right. From the end of the road, follow the main track. The first outcrop up to the right is "Carpark Buttress", leave the track when level with it (cairn). "/> <image id="2" height="858" width="" src="south sister overview.png" noPrint="false"/> <image id="3" height="573" width="" src="south sister detail.png" noPrint="false"/> <text id="4" class="heading2">Car Park Buttress</text> <text id="5" class="text">Access is as for Canyon Buttress. You pass straight under this cliff. The first three lines start from the grassy ledge.</text> <climb id="6" fa=" Ashley Mason Oct 2004" grade="19" length="10m" name="Fat Jam" number="1." extra="" stars="">Climb thin corner and face to ledge, then fistcrack to top.</climb> <climb id="7" fa="Peter & Shea Wines, Dec 1996." grade="16" length="10m" name="Sheavinos" number="2." extra="" stars=" ** ">Up steep face using twin cracks to gain ledge, lay back corner to top.</climb> <climb id="8" fa="A.Mason, Nov 1996." grade="14" length="10m" name="Laid Back" number="3." extra="">Climb cracks to sloping ledge, then layback to top.</climb> <text id="9" class="text">Immediately below is a smaller cliff.</text> <climb id="75" fa="Ashley Mason & Peter Witton Feb 2005" grade="20" length="10m" name="Euphrasia" number="4." extra="" stars="">The cleaned face at start (left side) of lower tier.</climb> <climb id="76" fa="Ashley Mason & Peter Witton Oct 2003" grade="18" length="6m" name="Intro" number="5.">Climbs small pinnacle via crack.</climb> <climb id="10" fa="A.Mason, Sep 1996." grade="14" length="9m" name="Oh Well" number="6." extra="">Up chimney and out right on face holds.</climb> <climb id="11" fa="A.Mason (TR as no placements), Jul 1996." grade="18" length="9m" name="Problem One" number="7." extra="">2m from corner, a small triangular ledgr in niche is gained delicately, contiue straight up.</climb> <text id="12" class="heading2">Caramel Slice Buttress</text> <text id="13" class="text">This area is best accessed from the last left hand bend on the road prior to reaching the car-park. Follow a small track contouring north, passing some small outcrops, until you reach a larger crag about 5 mins away. This is the beginning of Caramel Slice Buttress.</text> <climb id="77" fa="Ashley Mason & Norm Selby July 2003" grade="16" length="8m" name="Forestry Vandals" number="8." extra="" stars="">Just before the main crag is a small face. Climb this.</climb> <climb id="14" fa="Ashley Mason & Nick Hancock Sept 2011" grade="18" length="11m" name="Look Sharp" number="9." extra="Þ " stars="">Climb the U-bolted sharp flake to a DBB..</climb> <climb id="91" fa="Nick Hancock & Ashley Mason Sept 2011" grade="24" length="7m" name="Slice'n'Dice" number="10." extra="3Þ">Climb the funky and pumpy, double arete, of the small detached pinnacle below LS, to a DBB.</climb> <text id="74" class="text">5m down on a large ledge next to a big white gum is a clean face.</text> <climb id="15" fa="P.Wines, Jul 1995." grade="17" length="25m" name="Exit Stage Three" number="11." extra="" stars=" ** ">Climb the face/thin crack on left hand side to under cling, to first stage, up middle of face, step left to gain offwidth crack on arete, a balancy move, but becomes easier towards the top. A beaut. Belay, same as Caramel Slice.</climb> <climb id="16" fa="A Mason, May 1995." grade="16" length="25m" name="Caramel Slice" number="12." extra="">Ascend face to undercling, layback and straight up to horizontal break. Step right, onto sharp edge, gain the wide crack with difficulty and continue to the top. A harder/bolder varient is to go left from the sharp edge, onto face and straight up.</climb> <text id="17" class="text">Around the corner is another face.</text> <climb id="18" fa="A.Mason, Mar 1997." grade="18" length="20m" name="Ramble On" number="13." extra="" stars=" ** ">Climb the blind crack on the right side of face to horizontal break. Move delicately up face on finger flakes, (2RPs) to top left corner.</climb> <text id="19" class="text">10m further on is another clean face with a large flake going half way up. The left side has been top roped.</text> <climb id="20" fa="Norm Selby, Ashley Mason 13 Jul 2003." grade="19" length="18m" name="Turn the Page" number="14." extra="Þ " stars="***">This is the first bolted climb at South Sister area. The line of bolts left of Science Circus and to the right of the big gully. 7 bolts up an arête to the rap point.</climb> <climb id="78" fa="Gerry Narkowicz & Bob MacMahon 1984" grade="19" length="22m" name="Hot Piss" number="15." extra="" stars="">Start as for Science Circus but head up left across the blank face to finish up hand crack. Poorly protected.</climb> <climb id="21" fa="Ashley Mason, Jul 1996." grade="15" length="22m" name="Science Circus" number="16." extra="" stars="*">Classic. Layback the RH edge of the big flake and gain the top of the leaning block. From the block climb the slabby face staying left of the shallow vee-groove. Trend right and into the base of the crack in the head wall. Up crack to finish. Take carrot hanger for slab.</climb> <climb id="22" fa="Ashey Mason, Jul 1997." grade="18" length="22m" name="Gritstone Roots" number="17." extra="" stars=" * ">Start 1m to right of chimney using small square undercling, move delicately up face to spike runner, accend slab to 2nd spike runner and continue easily to top. Spaced gear.</climb> <climb id="24" fa="G.Narkowicz, 1984." grade="23" length="24m" name="Judgment Over the Dead" number="18." extra="" stars="*">At the lowest point a steep, slightly overhanging face is broken by a thin crack, layback this on finger tips (crux), continue up crack and face to top.</climb> <climb id="25" fa="N Selby, A Mason 6 Sep 2003." grade="20" length="18m" name="Almost 27" number="19." extra="Þ " stars="**">First line of bolts right of J.O.T.D. 8 bolts to rap point.</climb> <climb id="26" fa="N Selby, A Mason 27 Sep 2003." grade="22" length="18m" name="The Grand Final Addition" number="20." extra="Þ " stars="*">Start as for Almost 27 then head right up to the same rap point.</climb> <climb id="27" fa="Nick Hancock, Apr 2004." grade="26" length="15m" name="Slice of Life " number="21." extra="5Þ" stars="***">At the right side of the cliff climb the sharp overhanging arête by ludicrous barn-door lay-backing to DBB.</climb> <image id="117" height="800" width="600" src="P1070171.JPG" noPrint="false" printLayout="OneColumn" legendy="9" legendx="9" legendFooter="Photo R. Parkyn" legendTitle="Caramel Slice Buttress RHS" legend="true"> <drawing> <path id="49758" linkedTo="26" d="M232.0,364.0C242.4,347.2 246.3,337.9 258.0,322.0C269.7,306.1 289.1,301.6 294.0,280.0C298.9,258.4 295.9,171.0 299.0,142.0C302.1,113.0 300.7,95.9 316.0,71.0" points="232.0,364.0, 258.0,322.0, 294.0,280.0, 299.0,142.0, 316.0,71.0,lower"/> <path id="46497" linkedTo="27" d="M356.0,494.0C375.2,411.2 385.9,370.0 404.0,287.0C422.1,204.0 430.4,158.0 448.0,72.0" points="356.0,494.0, 404.0,287.0, 448.0,72.0,lower"/> <path id="83878" points="56.0,461.0, 109.0,368.0, 181.0,230.0, 238.0,81.0,lower-left" d="M56.0,461.0C77.2,423.8 88.6,405.7 109.0,368.0C129.4,330.3 155.5,286.8 181.0,230.0C206.5,173.2 215.2,140.6 238.0,81.0" linkedTo="20" lineStyle="dotted"/> <path id="25718" points="63.0,663.0, 119.0,517.0, 167.0,363.0, 212.0,227.0, 255.0,120.0, 312.0,71.0," d="M63.0,663.0C85.4,604.6 98.5,576.1 119.0,517.0C139.5,457.9 149.5,417.6 167.0,363.0C184.5,308.4 196.3,270.4 212.0,227.0C227.7,183.6 238.8,145.3 255.0,120.0C271.2,94.7 296.7,95.9 312.0,71.0" linkedTo="24"/> <path id="38613" points="136.0,676.0, 212.0,408.0, 213.0,331.0, 258.0,202.0, 315.0,72.0," d="M136.0,676.0C166.4,568.8 205.3,438.1 212.0,408.0C218.7,377.9 206.3,361.1 213.0,331.0C219.7,300.9 238.0,252.8 258.0,202.0C278.0,151.2 292.2,124.0 315.0,72.0" linkedTo="25"/> </drawing> <legend> <climb>20</climb> <climb>24</climb> <climb>25</climb> <climb>26</climb> <climb>27</climb> </legend> </image> <text id="28" class="heading2">Canyon Buttress</text> <text id="29" class="text">Canyon Buttress faces North and is split into an East and West Buttress, with many great crack lines.<br/><br/>Access:<br/>Follow the main track up to the fire tower, as soon as you pass the overhanging boulder just past the memorial plaque, hop across the boulders on your right following the cairns. Go under a small cliff (Car Park Buttress) on your left, following the contour until you reach a small saddle with a small outcrop on the right. Canyon Buttress is in front of you and to your left (you are just about on top of it here). Either walk around to its base or locate a rap-station and rap-in from the top (down the line of The Way We Were).<br/><br/>Descent:<br/>- East Buttress. There is a rap-station above Small Beers and Thin Books and another at the top of The Way We Were.<br/>- West Buttress. There is a rap-station on top of the buttress above Have Hands, Will Jam. Walk-off to climbers' right is also quite easy.</text> <text id="160" class="heading3">Canyon Buttress East</text> <image id="156" src="Canyon North.jpeg" height="800" width="600" legend="true" legendTitle="Canyon Buttress East" legendx="8" legendy="6"> <drawing> <path id="71630" points="149.0,627.0, 148.0,627.0, 193.0,280.0, 206.0,195.0, 232.0,99.0,lower-left" d="M149.0,627.0C149.0,626.6 148.0,627.4 148.0,627.0C148.0,626.6 188.4,314.1 193.0,280.0C197.6,245.9 198.8,228.6 206.0,195.0C213.2,161.4 221.6,137.4 232.0,99.0" linkedTo="32"/> <path id="71398" points="284.0,685.0, 307.0,248.0, 316.0,149.0, 356.0,125.0, 362.0,73.0,lower" d="M284.0,685.0C293.2,510.2 304.6,287.7 307.0,248.0C309.4,208.3 309.1,166.3 316.0,149.0C322.9,131.7 346.3,141.0 356.0,125.0C365.7,109.0 362.0,93.9 362.0,73.0" linkedTo="33"/> <path id="30028" points="389.0,673.0, 375.0,297.0, 368.0,153.0, 362.0,75.0," d="M389.0,673.0C383.4,522.6 377.3,354.6 375.0,297.0C372.7,239.4 369.8,184.2 368.0,153.0C366.2,121.8 362.0,95.9 362.0,75.0" linkedTo="34"/> <path id="99559" points="458.0,538.0, 420.0,108.0,belay" d="M458.0,538.0C442.8,366.0 435.2,280.0 420.0,108.0" linkedTo="35"/> <path id="91092" points="110.0,571.0, 125.0,507.0," d="M110.0,571.0C116.0,545.4 119.0,532.6 125.0,507.0" arrow="true" linkedTo="30"/> </drawing> <legend> <climb>30</climb> <climb>32</climb> <climb>33</climb> <climb>34</climb> <climb>35</climb> </legend> </image> <climb id="30" fa="H.Mohler, 1984." grade="15" length="18m" name="Barley Straw" number="22." extra="" stars="*">Climb the obvious crack system to the top.</climb> <climb id="31" fa="R.McMahon, 1984." grade="21" length="18m" name="Wide Open" number="23." extra="">A delicate face climb, finishing up the righthand crack. Sparse protection.</climb> <climb id="32" fa="G.Narkowicz, 1984." grade="19" length="22m" name="Small Beers and Thin Books" number="24." extra="" stars="***">Bridge the twin finger cracks to the top. A sustained classic.</climb> <climb id="33" fa="R.McMahon, 1984." grade="19" length="22m" name="Lawyers, Guns & Money" number="25." extra="" stars="*">Grunt up the obvious off-width crack.</climb> <climb id="34" fa="R.McMahon, 1984." grade="17" length="22m" name="The Way We Were" number="26." extra="" stars="*">Climb corner, then bridge between wide and thin cracks to top of pillar, continue to rap chains at top.</climb> <climb id="35" fa="G.Narkowicz, 1984." grade="23" length="22m" name="Leather Joyboys" number="27." extra="" stars="">Follow the thin crack on small holds and finger-locks (awaits a 2nd ascent - and a clean).</climb> <text id="161" class="heading3">Canyon Buttress West</text> <text id="36" class="text">A few metres over across the small gully is the Western Buttress. The next climbs are on its LHS.</text> <image id="155" src="Canyon South LHS.jpeg" height="800" width="600" legend="true" legendTitle="Canyon Buttress West LHS" legendx="9" legendy="5"> <drawing> <path id="12658" points="126.0,464.0, 125.0,464.0, 174.0,271.0, 202.0,180.0, 215.0,123.0,belay" d="M126.0,464.0C125.6,464.0 124.9,464.4 125.0,464.0C125.1,463.6 164.0,307.8 174.0,271.0C184.0,234.2 195.8,202.5 202.0,180.0C208.2,157.5 209.8,145.8 215.0,123.0" linkedTo="37"/> <path id="1515" points="146.0,497.0, 174.0,435.0, 205.0,385.0, 236.0,201.0, 249.0,117.0,belay" d="M146.0,497.0C157.2,472.2 163.0,455.8 174.0,435.0C185.0,414.2 199.0,407.7 205.0,385.0C211.0,362.3 230.5,234.6 236.0,201.0C241.5,167.4 243.8,150.6 249.0,117.0" linkedTo="80"/> <path id="81860" points="334.0,778.0, 329.0,389.0, 366.0,315.0,belay 344.0,189.0, 319.0,98.0," d="M334.0,778.0C332.0,622.4 326.7,422.0 329.0,389.0C331.3,356.0 363.5,348.0 366.0,315.0C368.5,282.0 352.0,225.9 344.0,189.0C336.0,152.1 329.0,134.4 319.0,98.0" linkedTo="38"/> <path id="45415" points="588.0,604.0, 522.0,431.0, 416.0,185.0,belay" d="M588.0,604.0C561.6,534.8 550.1,499.5 522.0,431.0C493.9,362.5 458.4,283.4 416.0,185.0" linkedTo="81"/> <path id="456" points="316.0,94.0,lower-right" d="M316.0,94.0"/> </drawing> <legend> <climb>37</climb> <climb>80</climb> <climb>38</climb> <climb>81</climb> </legend> </image> <climb id="37" fa="Kim Bischoff & Adrian Wing " grade="17" length="22m" name="Bischoff and Wing's Original" number="28." extra="" stars="**">Delightful. From the grassy ledge in top of the gully, follow the obvious long hand crack to the small ledge, then continue directly to top.</climb> <climb id="80" fa="Gerry Narcowicz & Bob MacMahon July 1984" grade="20" length="22m" name="Knee Deep in Gore" number="29.">Climb the grim offwidth to the top of the pillar, then the good cracked face above.</climb> <climb id="79" fa="Ashley Mason, Peter Witton & Peter Wines Oct 1997" grade="20" length="22m" name="The Three Musketeers" number="30." extra="" stars="">A more pleasant, but runout alternative start to Knee Deep in Gore. Climb the sparsely protected arete just to the right and finish up the top crack of the original.</climb> <climb id="38" fa="R.McMahon, 1984." grade="18" length="25m" name="Sizzling Snags" number="31." extra="" stars="">Start at low point, climb arête tending rightwards and on to big ledge (belay). Climb the line above through the squeeze and to the top.</climb> <climb id="81" fa="Ashley Mason & Peter Witton Aug 2003" grade="19" length="16m" name="Roo Burgers" number="32." extra="" stars="">2m right of Sizzling Snags climb finger crack to sloping ledge then hand crack.</climb> <text id="148" class="text">The next few climbs are on the RHS of the Western Buttress.</text> <image id="147" src="IMG_3320.jpg" height="800" width="600" legend="true" legendTitle="Canyon Buttress West RHS" legendx="8" legendy="7"> <drawing> <path id="93700" points="" d=""/> <rect id="81061" x="381" y="132" width="106" height="51" style="black_text_on_solid_white" text="Walk-off right <br/>easily or scramble <br/>to rap-station" arrowDirection="east"/> <rect id="31312" x="46" y="183" width="97" height="36" style="white_text_on_solid_black" text="Canyon Buttress <br/>East" arrowDirection="south"/> <path id="88907" points="159.0,767.0, 184.0,584.0," d="M159.0,767.0C169.0,693.8 176.4,657.5 184.0,584.0" lineStyle="dotted" linkedTo="40"/> <path id="19593" points="184.0,584.0,label 214.0,233.0, 228.0,132.0, 224.0,117.0, 228.0,70.0,lower" d="M184.0,584.0C191.6,510.5 210.0,273.6 214.0,233.0C218.0,192.4 227.5,138.2 228.0,132.0C228.5,125.8 224.0,123.2 224.0,117.0C224.0,110.8 232.3,87.3 228.0,70.0" linkedTo=""/> <path id="96303" points="192.0,771.0, 214.0,559.0," d="M192.0,771.0C200.8,686.2 206.5,643.9 214.0,559.0" lineStyle="dotted" linkedTo="41"/> <path id="93799" points="213.0,558.0, 239.0,228.0, 254.0,106.0, 229.0,69.0," d="M213.0,558.0C220.5,473.1 234.6,277.0 239.0,228.0C243.4,179.0 255.1,123.8 254.0,106.0C252.9,88.2 233.3,86.3 229.0,69.0" linkedTo=""/> <path id="75508" points="239.0,771.0, 271.0,359.0, 287.0,187.0,belay" d="M239.0,771.0C251.8,606.2 265.3,427.9 271.0,359.0C276.7,290.1 280.6,255.8 287.0,187.0" linkedTo="42"/> <path id="44859" points="435.0,748.0, 431.0,236.0,belay" d="M435.0,748.0C433.4,543.2 432.6,440.8 431.0,236.0" linkedTo="43"/> <path id="35404" points="524.0,713.0, 507.0,405.0, 496.0,252.0,belay" d="M524.0,713.0C517.2,589.8 510.7,466.2 507.0,405.0C503.3,343.8 500.4,313.2 496.0,252.0" linkedTo="44"/> <path id="82493" points="350.0,113.0, 351.0,63.0," d="M350.0,113.0C350.4,93.0 350.6,83.0 351.0,63.0" arrow="true" linkedTo="90"/> <path id="38257" points="98.0,608.0, 143.0,255.0,belay" d="M98.0,608.0C116.0,466.8 125.0,396.2 143.0,255.0" linkedTo="39"/> </drawing> <legend> <climb>39</climb> <climb>40</climb> <climb>41</climb> <climb>42</climb> <climb>43</climb> <climb>44</climb> <climb>90</climb> </legend> </image> <climb id="39" fa="Some Lunatics in the 80's " grade="18" length="12m" name="Happy Cummings" number="33." extra="" stars="">A grunt of a climb up the grim offwidth.</climb> <climb id="40" fa="R.McMahon, 1984." grade="18" length="20m" name="Have Hands, Will Jam" number="34." extra="" stars="**">A classic hand crack. Either off-width the final section at the top, or step right and climb the short RHS crack (better). Rap chains at top.</climb> <climb id="41" fa="A.Mason, Feb 2001." grade="17" length="20m" name="Just Slipped In" number="35." extra="" stars="">Bridge between crack and offwidth edge on face holds to horizontal break, Follow crack to top.</climb> <climb id="42" fa="G.Narkowicz, 1984." grade="20" length="14m" name="Emptiness, Eagles, & Snow" number="36." extra="" stars="**">Beaut layback/finger crack, becoming off-width (crux).</climb> <climb id="43" fa="G.Narkowicz, 1984." grade="19" length="10m" name="Pleasure in the Pain" number="37." extra="" stars="**">The short finger/hand crack.</climb> <climb id="44" fa="G.Narkowicz (solo), 1984." grade="18" length="9m" name="Solitary Pleasures" number="38." extra="" stars="*">Another short vertical hand-crack.</climb> <climb id="90" fa="Ashley Mason & Peter Witton Apr 2004" grade="17" length="8m" name="End of the Line" number="39.">Crack up pinnacle at top of Northern buttress.</climb> <text id="45" class="text">The next couple climbs are on the small overhanging crag, in front of the South Buttress. Manx Minx is the thin crack.</text> <climb id="46" fa="G.Narkowicz, 1984." grade="20" length="7m" name="Manx Minx" number="40." extra="">Attempt to climb this overhanging gritty slit.</climb> <climb id="146" stars="" extra="" number="41." name="LunchTime Snack" length="7m" grade="16" fa="Fraser L-R May 2021">Grunt up perfect off width crack to body chimney.</climb> <text id="47" class="heading2">Absent Friends Buttress</text> <text id="48" class="text">There is one more decent buttress on this side of the mountain with a heap of good crack-lines. <br/><br/>Access:<br/>Walk the track to when you're about level with the third communication tower (about 10 metres back from the last building). From here, hop over the cable tray and head down the gully to the North, picking up some faint cairns on the way for about 5-10 minutes. The track is rough, but you'll know the top of the buttress when you spot a massive cairn and trees on top of it.<br/><br/>Descent:<br/>Convenient trees are located on top of the cliff as you top out and/or an easy walk-off to the right. Setting-up a fixed line is useful if you have one, for quick belay and descent.</text> <image id="157" src="Absent Friends.jpeg" height="800" width="600" legend="true" legendTitle="Absent Friends Buttress" legendx="431" legendy="7"> <drawing> <path id="17299" points="127.0,517.0, 126.0,517.0, 116.0,134.0, 133.0,96.0, 156.0,70.0,belay" d="M127.0,517.0C127.0,516.6 126.0,517.4 126.0,517.0C126.0,516.6 115.7,150.6 116.0,134.0C116.3,117.4 125.6,107.8 133.0,96.0C140.4,84.2 154.6,83.8 156.0,70.0" linkedTo="82"/> <path id="47192" points="181.0,587.0, 163.0,211.0, 157.0,71.0," d="M181.0,587.0C173.8,436.6 165.6,267.0 163.0,211.0C160.4,155.0 155.6,84.8 157.0,71.0" linkedTo="83"/> <path id="41714" points="320.0,679.0, 276.0,78.0,belay" d="M320.0,679.0C302.4,438.6 293.6,318.4 276.0,78.0" linkedTo="149"/> <path id="25719" points="408.0,731.0, 358.0,298.0, 337.0,78.0,belay" d="M408.0,731.0C388.0,557.8 367.6,385.9 358.0,298.0C348.4,210.1 345.4,166.0 337.0,78.0" linkedTo="84"/> <path id="84617" points="482.0,766.0, 447.0,470.0, 438.0,392.0, 422.0,365.0, 382.0,114.0,belay" d="M482.0,766.0C468.0,647.6 450.7,501.2 447.0,470.0C443.3,438.8 440.9,404.2 438.0,392.0C435.1,379.8 424.5,377.3 422.0,365.0C419.5,352.7 398.0,214.4 382.0,114.0" linkedTo="85"/> <path id="38396" points="498.0,747.0, 458.0,407.0, 431.0,243.0, 411.0,153.0,belay" d="M498.0,747.0C482.0,611.0 466.8,472.9 458.0,407.0C449.2,341.1 437.7,279.3 431.0,243.0C424.3,206.7 419.0,189.0 411.0,153.0" linkedTo="49"/> </drawing> <legend> <climb>82</climb> <climb>83</climb> <climb>149</climb> <climb>84</climb> <climb>85</climb> <climb>49</climb> </legend> </image> <climb id="82" fa="Ashley Mason & Peter Witton May 2003" grade="20" length="12m" name="Good Friends" number="42." stars="**" extra="">The left hand finger crack.</climb> <climb id="83" fa="Gerry Narcowicz & Ashley Mason May 2003" grade="19" length="13m" name="Three Ancient Treasures" number="43." stars="**" extra="">The second finger/hand crack.</climb> <climb id="149" stars="*" extra="" number="44." name="Absent Ascentionist" length="16m" grade="19" fa="Unknown, but probably Fraser L-R (though he won't claim it!).">Hands, fists, off-width. Left of The Loner.</climb> <climb id="84" fa="Gerry Narcowicz May 2003" grade="20" length="16m" name="The Loner" number="45." stars="*" extra="">Fist to offwidth crack, to the right of Absent Ascentionist.</climb> <climb id="85" fa="Gerry Narcowicz & Ashley Mason May 2003" grade="23" length="16m" name="The Heights of Zaphon" number="46." stars="**" extra="">Thin seam up shallow bridging corner to small ledge. Step left then climb the sensational left finger crack.</climb> <climb id="49" fa="A.Mason, Oct 1997." grade="17" length="16m" name="Absent Friends" number="47." extra="" stars="**">The furthest crack on the right. Nice hand jamming with some face holds.</climb> <text id="150" class="text">About 40m up the hill and to the right (west) of Absent Friends Buttress is a neat 15m high cliff with two climbs.</text> <image id="152" src="Great Unknown.jpg" height="667" legend="true" legendTitle="Great Unknown Buttress"> <drawing> <path id="23131" points="202.0,567.0, 201.0,567.0, 206.0,188.0, 213.0,93.0,belay" d="M202.0,567.0C202.0,566.6 201.0,567.4 201.0,567.0C201.0,566.6 205.0,226.1 206.0,188.0C207.0,149.9 210.2,131.0 213.0,93.0" linkedTo="145"/> <path id="24935" points="278.0,518.0, 268.0,329.0, 270.0,42.0,belay" d="M278.0,518.0C274.0,442.4 269.3,404.7 268.0,329.0C266.7,253.3 269.2,156.8 270.0,42.0" linkedTo="129"/> </drawing> <legend> <climb>145</climb> <climb>129</climb> </legend> </image> <climb id="145" stars="" extra="" number="48." name="Couple of Lost Boys" length="15m" grade="18" fa="Fraser L-R and Stevie B, Feb 2021">A metre meter left of The great Unknown is an off-width to body chimney between a pinnacle and the cliff, protectable on small cams from BD#0.3 and smaller.</climb> <climb id="129" fa="Gerry Narkowicz and Andrew Martin. 11/6/16" grade="23" length="15m" name="The Great Unknown " number="49." extra="" stars="**">The splitter finger crack in a shallow corner. Technical flared jamming and a great challenge.</climb> <text id="50" class="heading2">Dogwood, Dinosaur and Pinnacle Buttress</text> <text id="51" class="text">Approach:<br/>Walk up the track and head to the very end where the small building is. Immediately before the building, move right onto the massive slabby boulder and duck under the cable tray to pass the building on its RHS. Follow the cairned track in a Westerly direction along the North side of the crest until you can easily pop-out onto the South side of the crest where you will see some large butresses facing South & West. These are the Dogwood, Dinosaur and the Pinnacle Buttresses.<br/><br/>GPS: -41.534938, 148.170633<br/><br/>Descent:<br/>Dogwood Buttress - Easy trad anchor at top and walk-off the back.<br/>Dinosaur Buttress - Trad Belay on top and walk-off. Lower-offs on the sport routes. <br/>Pinnacle Buttress - Abseil from gear to a small ledge to start the routes and climb out.</text> <image id="158" src="Dogwood, Dinosaur, Pinnacle.jpeg" height="496" width="1000" legend="true" legendTitle="Dogwood, Dinosaur and Pinnacle Buttress" legendx="2" legendy="2"> <drawing> <path id="40186" points="208.0,394.0, 202.0,241.0,belay" d="M208.0,394.0C205.6,332.8 204.4,302.2 202.0,241.0" linkedTo="130"/> <path id="39597" points="239.0,410.0, 230.0,179.0,belay" d="M239.0,410.0C235.4,317.6 233.6,271.4 230.0,179.0" linkedTo="86"/> <path id="27770" points="264.0,402.0, 256.0,183.0,belay" d="M264.0,402.0C260.8,314.4 259.2,270.6 256.0,183.0" linkedTo="87"/> <rect id="9566" x="180" y="104" width="104" height="22" style="white_text_on_solid_black" text="Dogwood Buttress" arrowDirection="south"/> <rect id="83045" x="503" y="33" width="101" height="22" style="white_text_on_solid_black" text="Dinosaur Buttress" arrowDirection="south"/> <rect id="48434" x="815" 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length="10m" name="Double The Pain" number="50." extra="" stars="*">The short line on the far left of the cliff. A desperate, gnarly flared finger crack. Initial estimate was grade 17, but turned out to be 5 grades harder.</climb> <climb id="86" fa="Gerry Narkowicz & Ashley Mason April 2003" grade="20" length="13m" name="New Creation" number="51." extra="" stars="**">Immaculate thin hand crack in middle of crag with a tough start.</climb> <climb id="87" fa="Gerry Narkowicz & Ashley Mason April 2003" grade="23" length="13m" name="Brand New Man" number="52." extra="" stars="**">Awesome looking thin crack on right. Well protected, desperate and hard at the grade.</climb> <text id="159" class="heading3">Dinosaur Buttress</text> <text id="53" class="text">Access as for Dogwood Buttress, but head left before reaching the Dogwood Buttress at a massive leaning rock spike to access the bigger crag facing west, opposite the pinnacle. Rap-in from a trad or tree anchor off to the side to the base of the buttress (see topo).</text> <climb id="54" fa="Gerry Narcowicz & Nick Hancock, May 2004." grade="24" length="20m" name="The All-consuming Fire" number="53." extra="" stars="*">The unrelenting finger crack left of T-Rex.</climb> <climb id="55" fa="Ashley Mason." grade="21" length="20m" name="T-Rex" number="54." extra="" stars="**">Climb the double cracks in a recessed corner. The left one is thin, the right one keeps getting wider.</climb> <climb id="92" fa="Ashley Mason & Peter Witton 2001" grade="19" length="20m" name="Raptor" number="55.">Nice hand crack.</climb> <climb id="56" fa="Ashley Mason & Peter Witton Dec 2000" grade="16" length="20m" name="Ageing Dinosaur" number="56." extra="">Climb the crack that zig-zags left at about half-height. Finish as for Raptor.</climb> <climb id="57" fa="Ashley Mason Apr 2005." grade="23" length="20m" name="Archaeopteryx" number="57." extra="7Þ" stars="*">Start near the base of Aging Dinosaur but follow the bolts up into the headwall right of it.</climb> <climb id="58" fa="Nick Hancock, May 2004." grade="27" length="20m" name="Let's Evolve" number="58." extra="7Þ" stars=" *** ">Fridge lifting arête right of Ageing Dinosaur to DBB.</climb> <climb id="59" fa="Norm Selby 2005." grade="24" length="20m" name="Ice Age" number="59." extra="8Þ" stars=" *** ">The beautiful bolted arête at the right end of this face. The top 5m is climbed to the left of the arête.</climb> <text id="60" class="heading3">The Pinnacle</text> <text id="61" class="text">The Pinnacle is the large isolated buttress on the southern side of the mountain below Dinosaur Buttress. <br/><br/>Access by scrambling down beside Dinosaur Buttress, or abseil from Dinosaur Buttress and scramble across to the Pinnacle. 5m below the top of the pinnacle towards the RHS, is a ledge from which to abseil (gear belay). 25m directly below this ledge are twin jam cracks starting from a small ledge halfway up the cliff. All routes start from this ledge as the bottom half of the cliff is vegetated, but the top 25m are spearing crack-lines.</text> <climb id="138" stars="**" extra="" number="60." name="The Journeyman" length="20m" grade="24" fa="Gerry Narkowicz and Andrew martin. 26/9/16">Spearing finger crack in a corner on the far left side of the buttress. A bridging testpiece.</climb> <climb id="167" stars="*" extra="" number="61." name="I Ain't No Craft Fair Going Soft Cock" length="20m" grade="18" fa="Gerry Narkowicz and Kris Penn, 24 August 2019">To the right of the Journeyman is a ghastly big offwidth. Climbs well as far as offwidths go.</climb> <climb id="62" fa="Gerry Narkowicz and Ashley Mason, Apr 2004" grade="22" length="25m" name="No Condemnation" number="62." extra="" stars="">The thin jam crack on the left below the abseil line.</climb> <climb id="63" fa="Gerry Narkowicz, Ashley Mason, Andrew Martin, 9 Dec 2004." grade="22" length="25m" name="Not So Squeaky" number="63." extra="" stars="">The precise, strenuous thin hand crack on the right below the abseil line with a small roof at half height.</climb> <climb id="64" fa="Gerry Narkowicz, Ashley Mason. Andrew Martin, 9 Dec 2004." grade="19" length="25m" name="Squeak Is My Hero" number="64." extra="" stars="">The next crack to the right, beginning as a finger crack leading to a neat hand-crack through a roof. Belay on ledge, and then lead short easy chimney to finish.</climb> <text id="142" class="heading2">Lady Starstruck Buttress</text> <text id="134" class="text">From Dogwood Buttress, continue west along the ridge following the path of least resistance for about 100m. At one point the easiest way forward is to clamber down through a hole under a boulder. Immediately after the hole is a handsome buttress about 15m high on the right, facing west, with several strong looking crack lines.</text> <climb id="135" fa="Gerry Narkowicz and Andrew Martin. 6/7/16" grade="22" length="12m" name="Psycho-snatch" number="65." extra="" stars="">The central crack which is a bit crazy, slippery and wide at times. A brutal exercise in jamming of various widths. A route never to be repeated</climb> <climb id="166" stars="**" extra="" number="66." name="Lady Starstruck" length="12m" grade="26" fa="Gerry Narkowicz April 2019">The improbable looking blank groove with several bolts. A master class of bridging technique.</climb> <climb id="136" fa="Gerry Narkowicz and Andrew Martin. 11/6/16" grade="18" length="12m" name="Abby's Lasagne" number="67." extra="" stars="">The major crackline on the RHS which is a bit wide and loose to begin with, but ends up as a neat hand crack. Best left in the bin.</climb> <climb id="137" fa="Andrew Martin and Gerry Narkowicz. 6/7/16" grade="21" length="12m" name="Heatseeker" number="68." extra="" stars="**">The very thin seam on the far right of the cliff leadng to a ledge, followed by a neat jam crack in a corner. Great moves. First ascent was on pre-placed wires</climb> <text id="65" class="heading2">Breakaway Buttress</text> <text id="66" class="text">To access this cliff, walk up the main track to the last building on the ridge. Walk down left hand gully and bear left to walk out on top of buttress. Abseil, or walk down. From the lowest point, the left hand crack system is:</text> <climb id="67" fa="Peter Wines, Oct 1996." grade="17" length="45m" name="The Ho Chi Min Trail" number="69." extra="" stars="">Start at left side, climb up to first ledge. Climb crack using pocket on left to gain next ledge, and continue up left crack to third ledge. Follow wide crack to top.</climb> <climb id="68" fa="Ashley Mason, Oct 1996." grade="18" length="45m" name="Tin Pan Alley" number="70." extra="" stars="">A few meters right is a thin crack, step up 1m and layback to reach lip on left and mantelshelf, and up to ledge. Delicately climb slab and up groove becoming easier, to large ledge. Follow crack above to top.</climb> <text id="141" class="heading2">Pole 62</text> <text id="144" class="text">Huge boulder with a 30 degree overhanging face.<br/><br/>From the end of the decent foresty road heading out to Teapot Rocks, just before it turns into a rough 4WD track, go along the powerline easement as far as telegraph pole number 62. In the vicinity of this pole, look for a yellow tagged track and cairns heading right into the bush. Follow this path for 10 minutes up to a very steep crag with dark rock.<br/><br/>GPS. -41.537023, 148.168442</text> <climb id="163" stars="*" extra="" number="71." name="Tython" length="12m" grade="26" fa="Garry Phillips 2021"><br/>Left most route on the boulder. Tricky crux move at half height.</climb> <climb id="164" stars="**" extra="" number="72." name="The Force" length="15m" grade="27/28" fa="G Phillips 2021">Starts up Tython then traverses right after the crux. The climbing is both fingery and powerful.</climb> <climb id="165" stars="**" extra="" number="73." name="The Empire Strikes Back" length="22m" grade="28" fa="G Phillips"><br/>Starts up Out of the shadows but after a couple of bolts head left via the u bolts and up via a powerful sequence of moves.<br/>Classic in my opinion.<br/></climb> <climb id="140" stars="***" extra="" number="74." name="Out of the Shadows" length="25m" grade="25" fa="Isaac Lethborg, June 2017">One of the steepest dolerite climbs in Tasmania. <br/><br/>Out of the Shadows climbs the central bolted line on fixed hangers. Amazing steep and improbable climbing on large holds with a crux just before the lip.</climb> <image id="143" src="_7260486 Panorama.jpg" height="825" width="1200"> <drawing> <path id="49711" points="342.0,695.0, 341.0,695.0, 327.0,610.0, 364.0,524.0, 330.0,376.0, 366.0,254.0, 378.0,196.0, 357.0,119.0, 377.0,68.0,lower" d="M342.0,695.0C341.6,695.0 341.1,695.4 341.0,695.0C340.9,694.6 322.4,644.2 327.0,610.0C331.6,575.8 363.5,561.4 364.0,524.0C364.5,486.6 329.6,426.9 330.0,376.0C330.4,325.1 359.9,276.9 366.0,254.0C372.1,231.1 379.6,219.6 378.0,196.0C376.4,172.4 357.2,140.9 357.0,119.0C356.8,97.1 369.0,88.4 377.0,68.0" linkedTo="140"/> </drawing> <legend> <climb>140</climb> </legend> </image> <text id="69" class="heading2">Tea Pot Rocks</text> <text id="70" class="text">This is an outcrop on the eastern end of the Nicholas Range. Drive half way up the track to South Sister then take a new forestry road heading left to its end. Go back a bit and walk down a 4WD track just below, heading west for half an hour. You'll see a big cliff off to the left. Head up easily to the cliff, arriving at the left end. A 4WD will get you within 2 minutes of the climbs.</text> <image id="109" height="844" src="Parapatry.jpg" printLayout="OneColumn" legendy="8" legendx="9" legendFooter="Topo G. Narkowicz" legendTitle="Tea Pot Rocks" legend="true"> <drawing> <path id="94508" linkedTo="98" d="M239.0,772.0C244.2,690.4 251.4,649.8 252.0,568.0C252.6,486.2 240.6,355.5 242.0,334.0C243.4,312.5 268.8,309.5 270.0,288.0C271.2,266.5 253.3,220.2 251.0,174.0C248.7,127.8 254.6,84.0 257.0,24.0" points="239.0,772.0, 252.0,568.0, 242.0,334.0, 270.0,288.0, 251.0,174.0, 257.0,24.0,lower"/> </drawing> <legend> <climb>98</climb> </legend> </image> <climb id="98" fa="Ashley Mason & Nick Hancock, Dec 2011" grade="23" length="25m" name="The Fine Line of Parody" number="75." extra="9Þ" stars="***">From the left side of the ledge, climb a groove, then swing right and ascend a beautiful technical face to a DBB.</climb> <image id="110" height="842" src="Corner Gas.jpg" printLayout="OneColumn" legendy="9" legendx="8" legendFooter="Topo G. Narkowicz" legendTitle="Tea Pot Rocks" legend="true"> <drawing> <path id="91930" linkedTo="99" d="M451.0,733.0C452.6,695.4 454.7,676.6 455.0,639.0C455.3,601.4 457.2,546.5 453.0,485.0C448.8,423.5 437.9,364.3 432.0,300.0C426.1,235.7 426.2,158.8 421.0,139.0C415.8,119.2 396.7,120.2 381.0,107.0C365.3,93.8 349.9,91.3 341.0,72.0C332.1,52.7 338.0,34.8 336.0,10.0" points="451.0,733.0, 455.0,639.0, 453.0,485.0, 432.0,300.0, 421.0,139.0, 381.0,107.0, 341.0,72.0, 336.0,10.0,"/> </drawing> <legend> <climb>99</climb> </legend> </image> <climb id="99" fa="Nick Hancock & Ashley Mason, Sep 2011" grade="22" length="25m" name="Corner Gas" number="76." extra="7Þ" stars="**">From the R side of the ledge, climb a blank corner using the right arête, then trend left, to a tenuous move left to finish up the previous climb.</climb> <climb id="107" fa="Nick & Heather Hancock July 2014." grade="24" length="25m" name="Northern Exposure" number="77." extra="10Þ" stars="**">Climb with increasing difficulty to a big ledge, then climb the technical upper wall.</climb> <text id="128" class="text">The following climbs are 150 metres further right</text> <climb id="121" fa="Ingvar Lidman 25 October 2013" grade="27" length="18m" name="Doomsday Destination" number="78." extra="" stars="**">On the next buttress west about 100m further is an amphitheatre of cliffs bordered by the grey arête called Last Of The Grey Nomads. The attractive line up the face on the LHS of the amphitheatre and R of the major chimney.</climb> <image id="111" height="843" src="Grey Nomads.jpg" printLayout="OneColumn" legendy="5" legendx="413" legendFooter="Topo G. Narkowicz" legendTitle="Tea Pot Rocks" legend="true"> <drawing> <path id="85947" linkedTo="100" d="M449.0,618.0C445.8,598.0 444.7,587.9 441.0,568.0C437.3,548.1 432.5,528.9 430.0,515.0C427.5,501.1 419.6,493.1 425.0,480.0C430.4,466.9 460.6,451.6 465.0,431.0C469.4,410.4 454.7,401.1 446.0,382.0C437.3,362.9 412.4,315.3 396.0,279.0C379.6,242.7 373.2,223.8 358.0,187.0" points="449.0,618.0, 441.0,568.0, 430.0,515.0, 425.0,480.0, 465.0,431.0, 446.0,382.0, 396.0,279.0, 358.0,187.0,lower"/> <path id="93038" linkedTo="122" d="M404.0,613.0C396.8,555.0 390.1,498.1 386.0,468.0C381.9,437.9 378.9,419.1 374.0,393.0C369.1,366.9 366.3,342.2 360.0,328.0C353.7,313.8 341.8,312.9 333.0,300.0C324.2,287.1 317.3,274.0 313.0,259.0C308.7,244.0 311.2,235.6 310.0,220.0" points="404.0,613.0, 386.0,468.0, 374.0,393.0, 360.0,328.0, 333.0,300.0, 313.0,259.0, 310.0,220.0,lower"/> </drawing> <legend> <climb>122</climb> <climb>100</climb> </legend> </image> <climb id="122" fa="Gerry Narkowicz 19 October 2013" grade="23" length="20m" name="Camellia" number="79." extra="Þ" stars="***">Climb the square cut arête and face immediately left of the shallow grey corner of Last of the Grey Nomads to DHB. Fantastic route.</climb> <climb id="100" fa="Nick & Heather Hancock, Ashley Mason, Oct 2011" grade="22" length="20m" name="Last of the Grey Nomads" number="80." extra="6Þ" stars="***">scramble up to a big ledge below a fine looking white arête. Classic moves up the sustained double arête to a DHB.</climb> <image id="112" height="842" src="Earl Grey.jpg" printLayout="OneColumn" legendy="9" legendx="15" legendFooter="Topo G. Narkowicz" legendTitle="Tea Pot Rocks" legend="true"> <drawing> <path id="56277" linkedTo="105" d="M334.0,821.0C321.6,740.6 314.3,691.3 303.0,620.0C291.7,548.7 279.3,476.3 274.0,442.0C268.7,407.7 264.4,390.6 262.0,356.0C259.6,321.4 253.6,183.8 248.0,69.0" points="334.0,821.0, 303.0,620.0, 274.0,442.0, 262.0,356.0, 248.0,69.0,"/> </drawing> <legend> <climb>105</climb> </legend> </image> <climb id="105" fa="Ashley Mason & Nick Hancock, Nov 2012 " grade="21" length="12m" name="Mid Life Crisis" number="81." extra="5Þ" stars="*">The wall below Last of the Grey Nomads (No lower offs)</climb> <image id="113" height="842" src="Lifes Too Short.jpg" printLayout="OneColumn" legendy="9" legendx="8" legendFooter="Topo G. Narkowicz" legendTitle="Tea Pot Rocks" legend="true"> <drawing> <path id="55422" linkedTo="106" d="M418.0,790.0C412.4,759.2 409.5,743.8 404.0,713.0C398.5,682.2 373.3,545.0 366.0,500.0C358.7,455.0 355.8,425.8 351.0,387.0C346.2,348.2 344.4,326.0 340.0,290.0C335.6,254.0 331.8,220.8 328.0,200.0C324.2,179.2 318.8,160.4 314.0,149.0C309.2,137.6 300.0,135.7 296.0,124.0C292.0,112.3 286.4,79.0 280.0,49.0" points="418.0,790.0, 404.0,713.0, 366.0,500.0, 351.0,387.0, 340.0,290.0, 328.0,200.0, 314.0,149.0, 296.0,124.0, 280.0,49.0,lower"/> </drawing> <legend> <climb>106</climb> </legend> </image> <climb id="106" fa="Nick Hancock, Dec 2012" grade="25" length="25m" name="Life's Too Short" number="82." extra="10Þ" stars="***">Begin slightly on the left, with a technical start, to begin the magnificent big arête, up the crack, then exquisite moves to the top.</climb> <climb id="123" fa="Ingvar Lidman 19 October 2013" grade="26" length="25m" name="Strong Brew" number="83." extra="" stars="**">The bolted face to the R of the big arête known as Life's Too Short. Half way up is a thin crack and the technical crux is on the arête above.</climb> <climb id="124" fa="Gerry Narkowicz 24 August 2013" grade="24" length="18m" name="English Breakfast" number="84." extra="" stars="**">Next right is a blunt arête beside a chimney leading to a small ledge, followed by a neat blank corner and arête above. First class.</climb> <climb id="125" fa="Andrew Martin September 2013" grade="24" length="18m" name="Mr Tea" number="85." extra="" stars="**">The line R of the chimney, culminating in a hectic layback up the arête . Great moves.</climb> <climb id="126" fa="Gerry Narkowicz 8 September 2013" grade="23" length="18m" name="Earl Grey" number="86." extra="" stars="**">Next R is a line of bolts starting from a prominent detached pillar under an overhang. A bouldery crux on the face above the roof, then a delicious technical groove up the centre of the face.</climb> <image id="114" height="842" src="Bored to death.jpg" printLayout="OneColumn" legendy="7" legendx="9" legendFooter="Topo G. Narkowicz" legendTitle="Tea Pot Rocks" legend="true"> <drawing> <path id="26040" linkedTo="101" d="M417.0,825.0C401.0,641.4 379.7,400.7 377.0,366.0C374.3,331.3 376.7,313.8 375.0,279.0C373.3,244.2 368.4,171.6 364.0,100.0" points="417.0,825.0, 377.0,366.0, 375.0,279.0, 364.0,100.0,lower"/> </drawing> <legend> <climb>101</climb> </legend> </image> <climb id="101" fa="Nick Hancock, Oct 2011" grade="24" length="25m" name="Bored to Death" number="87." extra="8Þ" stars="***">Climb a perfect box shaped groove with much difficulty, then the fine technical wall and groove above to a DBB.</climb> <climb id="127" fa="Gerry Narkowicz 24 August 2013" grade="22" length="18m" name="I'm A Little Teapot" number="88." extra="" stars="**">The line of bolts up a blunt arête and just left of a wide crack. Consistently technical and fun.</climb> <climb id="102" fa="Nick Hancock & Ashley Mason, Dec 2011" grade="23" length="30m" name="Big Bang Theory" number="89." extra="10Þ" stars="**">Climb up to a short blank groove and the crux, then ascend more easily to a few thinner moves to gain a DBB.</climb> <climb id="118" fa="Gerry Narkowicz April 1st 2013" grade="24" length="30m" name="Strange Brew" number="90." extra="13Þ" stars="**">Terrific face climb in between Big Bang Theory and Teapot Crack. The crux is half way up, but the tips layback at the top is a potential heartbreaker with little for the feet.</climb> <image id="115" height="842" src="Leap Of Faith.jpg" printLayout="OneColumn" legendy="10" legendx="426" legendFooter="Topo G. Narkowicz" legendTitle="Tea Pot Rocks" legend="true"> <drawing> <path id="17299" linkedTo="103" d="M46.0,723.0C59.6,649.0 68.0,587.5 80.0,538.0C92.0,488.5 103.4,465.2 120.0,417.0C136.6,368.8 167.6,290.9 187.0,227.0C206.4,163.1 211.0,129.8 227.0,65.0" points="46.0,723.0, 80.0,538.0, 120.0,417.0, 187.0,227.0, 227.0,65.0,"/> <path id="81982" linkedTo="108" d="M350.0,740.0C334.0,705.2 320.9,689.4 310.0,653.0C299.1,616.6 298.4,596.9 296.0,559.0C293.6,521.1 289.4,446.7 294.0,401.0C298.6,355.3 309.3,331.4 323.0,290.0C336.7,248.6 354.2,215.7 364.0,189.0C373.8,162.3 382.2,135.9 385.0,121.0C387.8,106.1 391.7,96.1 384.0,83.0C376.3,69.9 348.6,44.0 325.0,18.0" points="350.0,740.0, 310.0,653.0, 296.0,559.0, 294.0,401.0, 323.0,290.0, 364.0,189.0, 385.0,121.0, 384.0,83.0, 325.0,18.0,lower"/> </drawing> <legend> <climb>103</climb> <climb>108</climb> </legend> </image> <climb id="103" fa="Ashley Mason & Pete Witton, Apr 96." grade="16" length="27m" name="Tea Pot Crack" number="91.">Climb the obvious large crack, easily at first, becoming more difficult, hand jam at half height, and bridge offwidth to finish under protruding flake.</climb> <climb id="108" fa="Jemimah Narkowicz 17/2/13" grade="19" length="27m" name="Leap Of Faith" number="92." extra="8Þ" stars="*">Bolted arête on the far right of the amphitheatre, right of Big Bang Theory and Tea Pot Crack. Pleasant technical face climbing left of the arête with some big holds and not so big holds. For short people, two leaps of faith are required, one to get off the ledge at the bottom and one higher up the route. Rock is suspect in places.</climb> <climb id="119" fa="Nick & Heather Hancock, Jun 2014. " grade="23" length="15m" name="Two Broke Girls" number="93." extra="5Þ" stars="*">From the pedestal climb up rightwards to an underct, then fridge hug up to a ledge and DBB. Use extra long slings if top roping off these anchors.</climb> <climb id="104" fa="AshleyMason, Pete Witton & Peter Wines, May 96." grade="18" length="20m" name="Red Light Jam" number="94." stars="**">Climb the hand crack, becoming easier towards top as the crack veers left.</climb> <climb id="120" fa="Gerry Narkowicz 23/8/14" grade="24" length="12m" name="Profana-tea" number="95." extra="" stars="**">On the furthest buttress west about 30m right of the main amphitheatre is a short buttress with a neat grey shallow corner up the middle. Good, technical pumpy climbing</climb> <climb id="93" fa="Gerry Narcowicz & Ashley Mason Jun 2003" grade="20" length="15m" name="Not Everyones's Cuppa" number="96." extra="" stars="">Sharp gritty handcrack facing south east on back of the cliffs. It is accessed by heading up left from The Line of Parapatry.</climb> <text id="94" class="heading2">Ashley's Big Rock Candy Mountain</text> <text id="95" class="text">Go north and west on Dublin Town Road from the South Sister turnoff for 4km, then turn left on Lohreys Road for 1.4 km to an old 4WD track heading left up the hill, GDA 0595807 5401653. Walk up this for a few hundred metres, then head L, GDA 0595807 5401653 up the steep scrubby hill to a massive boulder, GDA 0595847 5401410.</text> <image id="116" height="450" width="600" src="P1070215.JPG" printLayout="OneColumn" legendy="10" legendx="10" legendFooter="Photo R. Parkyn" legendTitle="Candy Mountain" legend="true"> <drawing> <path id="45825" linkedTo="96" d="M174.0,317.0C182.4,267.8 188.8,230.8 195.0,194.0C201.2,157.2 204.0,138.8 210.0,102.0" points="174.0,317.0, 195.0,194.0, 210.0,102.0,belay"/> <path id="12858" linkedTo="97" d="M368.0,347.0C378.4,291.0 388.2,263.7 394.0,207.0C399.8,150.3 396.4,115.2 398.0,54.0" points="368.0,347.0, 394.0,207.0, 398.0,54.0,belay"/> </drawing> <legend> <climb>96</climb> <climb>97</climb> </legend> </image> <climb id="96" fa="Nick & Heather Hancock 2010" grade="23" length="8m" name="Fields of Dreams Growing Wild" number="97." extra="3Þ" stars="***">Awesome technical climbing on the left of the face.</climb> <climb id="97" fa="Nick & Heather Hancock 2010" grade="23" length="8m" name="Childhood's End" number="98." extra="4Þ" stars="**">Steep start to technical slab in middle of face.</climb> </guide> |