<?xml version="1.0" encoding="UTF-8"?>
<guide>
<header
access="The Hazards Main Wall is about 1 - 1.5km (or 20 minutes) south of Sleepy Bay car park. From the car park follow the well-worn track beyond Sleepy Bay beach to the point where the Sea-level and the Skyline Traverse diverge. From here the Sea-level Traverse provides the quickest access to routes left of Epaminondas, while routes to its right are best approached by a higher traverse line which leaves the Skyline Traverse further up the hill. Use the Skyline Traverse to descend. Generally more compact, the climbs right of The Laughing Jackass are less than 140m high and well defined, but Japhlion etc. are 250m high and not well defined because they pick the nice slabs amongst the confusion. It is best to identify Full Sail, Stud City & Japhlion, and work from these to locate the other climbs. The cliff faces east. The above access description appears in the old guide and is kind of ok if you know where you're going. Many of the routes do not finish at the top of the cliff, but require a bit of a scramble to get there. Allow enough time for this route finding when setting off. Descents are very epic in the dark. Any new descriptions are very welcome."
acknowledgement="" history="" intro="" name="Hazards Main Wall"
new="false" rock="Pink, slabby granite, up to 300m high"
sun="Morning sun" walk="5 - 30 min"></header><gps
new="true"><point code="CBH010"
description="Carpark - Start of Sleepy Bay Track"
easting="608936" height="40" northing="5334575"
zone="55G"/><point code="CBH020"
description="On the way to Insomnia Wall (can see it from here)"
easting="609016" height="33" northing="5334391"
zone="55G"/><point code="CBH030" description="Sleepy Bay"
easting="608955" height="10" northing="5334229"
zone="55G"/><point code="CBH040"
description="Underworld (top of Jaberwock)" easting="609100"
height="32" northing="5334039" zone="55G"/><point
code="CBH050"
description="Hazards Traverse Track - Access to Main Wall"
easting="609069" height="103" northing="5333822"
zone="55G"/><point code="CBH060"
description="Suzuki Complex (Luxury Leather)"
easting="609109" height="209" northing="5333569"
zone="55G"/></gps><image new="false" noPrint="false"
src="coles bay hmw overview.jpg" width=""/>
<climb extra=""
grade="" length="8hrs" name="Skyline Traverse" new="false"
number=""
stars="">No gear required except possibly water: there is a fixed abseil point along the way but this can be bypassed. Can be done in either direction. Start at the Sleepy Bay carpark and follow the track which heads south along the coast past a small sandy bay. About 300m past the bay a cairned route heads steeply up the hill and the remnants of a white dotted line begins. Follow the faint dotted line until it ceases, and then follow the skyline, passing over Mt. Parsons, Mt. Dove and Mt. Amos. In the saddle between Mt Amos and Mt Mayson you cross the Wineglass Bay tourist route which can be followed back to the main carparks.
The point where the ascent of Mt. Parsons begins is where the sea-level Traverse diverges, and as you ascend from here Hazards Main Wall is to your left (south). Where this ascent relents and is level for ~200m is the top of the longer routes at the south of Hazards Main Wall (Japhlion etc), and so this is also the quickest descent route from Hazards Main Wall. Also this point is roughly the same altitude as the foot of Wombat Crag (middle tier), part of which can be seen from here if you look west. This is the best way to reach Wombat Crag, and is the return route and one access for Flowstone. From the top of Mt. Parsons, Flowstone can be seen ~500m away to the south, the foot up to ~150m above the water. Just below the summit of Mt. Dove and to its northwest is the cliff called Windy Hill. To your left when you're in the saddle between Dove and Amos is the east face of Amos. </climb>
<climb
grade="16" length="8hrs" name="Sealevel Traverse" number=""
stars="**"> Strictly a misnomer, as sometimes you get some distance from the sea. Requires a fairly still day with low swell. Start at Sleepy Bay and as closely as is reasonable follow the sealevel south and then west to Wineglass Bay. Shortly after the route diverges from the Skyline Traverse you encounter the Horizontal Chimney. After 2km you round a corner and see Flowstone Wall. At this point you are at The Gonk. Just after you pass below Flowstone you must swim ~50m (unless you climb Dance of the Sugar Plum Fairy, or any other route on Flowstone, then drop back to sea level).</climb>
<text
class="heading3"
new="false">Main Wall Right Hand Side</text>
<text
class="Discussion"
new="false">The following climbs start from a traverse line leading leftwards to access the steeper part of the cliff. Try and find a track about 100-200m uphill (along the skyline traverse) from the to the turnoff for the sea-level traverse. The routes are described R-L, as you come to them.</text><image
new="false" noPrint="false" src="coles bay hmw right.jpg"
width=""/>
<climb extra="" grade="24"
guide.action="submit" guide.id="45" guide.page="0"
guide.type="climb" length="30m" name="The Axiom" new="false"
number="1." stars="***"
value="Start at the base of the waterwashed groove 30m right of Full Sail. Follow 9 bolts up the polished groove to a large ledge and rap anchors. The crux is overcoming the two inital bulges and is technical but not strenuous. Roger Parkyn, Sam Edwards (alt), Sep 94."> Start at the base of the waterwashed groove 30m right of Full Sail. Follow 9 bolts up the polished groove to a large ledge and rap anchors. The crux is overcoming the two inital bulges and is technical but not strenuous. Roger Parkyn, Sam Edwards (alt), Sep 94.</climb>
<text
class="Discussion">Rap anchors now exist to service the next few climbs and can be found at the top of Full Sail.</text>
<climb
extra="" grade="19" guide.action="submit" guide.id="44"
guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="45m" name="Full Sail"
new="false" number="2." stars="**"
value="On the righthand end of the Main Wall there is a compact wall about 100m from sea level. On the right hand end and running to the right a prominent roof splits the wall at about 15m height. Full Sail takes the line on the left-hand end of this roof. Climb the line to the corner of the roof, step left, then continue up past large columnar bridge to belay where angle eases. K.Lindorff, K.Roseberry, Jan 77.">On the righthand end of the Main Wall there is a compact wall about 100m from sea level. On the right hand end and running to the right a prominent roof splits the wall at about 15m height. Full Sail takes the line on the left-hand end of this roof. Climb the line to the corner of the roof, step left, then continue up past large columnar bridge to belay
where angle eases. K.Lindorff, K.Roseberry, Jan 77.</climb>
<climb
extra="" grade="20" guide.action="submit" guide.id="43"
guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="45m"
name="Full Sail Direct" new="false" number="3." stars="**"
value="A few metres left of Full Sail below a bolt at 5m. Climb via the bolt into Full Sail and up this line to the top. Doug Fife, L.Minami, Dec 82."> A few metres left of Full Sail below a bolt at 5m. Climb via the bolt into Full Sail and up this line to the top. Doug Fife, L.Minami, Dec 82.</climb>
<climb
extra="" grade="21" guide.action="submit" guide.id="42"
guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="45m" name="Havahorror"
new="false" number="4." stars="*"
value="The first line left of Full Sail, often a bit dirty, but cleaning it is easy if you do one of the other routes first. Up the fine left facing corner. Doug Fife, L.Minami, Dec 82."> The first line left of Full Sail, often a bit dirty, but cleaning it is easy if you do one of the other routes first. Up the fine left facing corner. Doug Fife, L.Minami, Dec 82.</climb>
<climb
extra="" grade="18" guide.action="submit" guide.id="41"
guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="45m"
name="Trucks Have Wings" new="false" number="5." stars="**"
value="Excellent. The first crack left of Havahorror. Climb the slab past two bolts, move right into the crack. Up this and the slab above. A.Hasan, Garn Cooper, Jun 1992."> Excellent. The first crack left of Havahorror. Climb the slab past two bolts, move right into the crack. Up this and the slab above. A.Hasan, Garn Cooper, Jun 1992.</climb>
<climb
extra="" grade="17" guide.action="submit" guide.id="39"
guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="45m" name="Jack Shit"
new="false" number="6." stars=""
value="A dirty adventure, which with a good cleaning effort or much traffic might become a good climb. Start as for Trucks Have Wings, clipping it's first two bolts before traversing left past the first crack to climb the second one. The direct start was done on top-rope by the second. Garn Cooper, P.Sullivan, Adam Potito, Mar 93."> A dirty adventure, which with a good cleaning effort or much traffic might become a good climb. Start as for Trucks Have Wings, clipping it's first two bolts before traversing left past the first crack to climb the second one. The direct start was done on top-rope by the second. Garn Cooper, P.Sullivan, Adam Potito, Mar 93.</climb>
<climb
extra="" grade="18" guide.action="submit" guide.id="38"
guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="90m"
name="The Reprieve" new="false" number="7." stars=""
value="Surprisingly worthwhile and adventurous. Start 30m left of Full Sail at a pile of blocks on the ledge. 1. 45m Move up wall on good holds then friction traverse right for 6m then up to ledge and dead tree. Continue easily up wall to belay. 2. 45m Traverse left for 6m then straight up to ledge. B.Kennedy, D.Bowman, Dec 76.">Surprisingly worthwhile and adventurous. Start 30m left of Full Sail at a pile of blocks on the ledge. 1. 45m Move up wall on good holds then friction traverse right for 6m then up to ledge and dead tree. Continue easily up wall to belay. 2. 45m Traverse left for 6m then straight up to ledge. B.Kennedy, D.Bowman, Dec 76.</climb>
<climb
extra="" grade="15" guide.action="submit" guide.id="37"
guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="160m"
name="Leo's Retreat" new="false" number="8." stars=""
value="Loose, scrubby and indirect. It can be found 30m left of The Reprieve. 1. 25m Up variety of cracks to belay on sloping ledge to the left. 2. 42m Move left around the corner to a large scrubby terrace. Walk 30m left to the obvious corner. 3. 25m Move up right to a small hollow, then trend left and up via the corner to a good ledge. 4. 30m Move right for 12m then up a wide crack to clean slabs. Belay on jammed blocks. 5. 12m Left up slabs to small caves. 6. 33m Up broken walls to the base of the overhang. 7. 40m Right for 12m, up grooves, then across the slab to final short wall and on to top. C.Rathbone, G.Kowalik, Phil Robinson, Nov 76.">Loose, scrubby and indirect. It can be found 30m left of The Reprieve. 1. 25m Up variety of cracks to belay on sloping ledge to the left. 2. 42m Move left around the corner to a large scrubby terrace. Walk 30m left to the obvious corner. 3. 25m Move up right to a small hollow, then trend left and up via the corner to a good ledge. 4. 30m Move right for 12m then up a wide crack to clean slabs. Belay on jammed blocks. 5. 12m Left up slabs to small caves. 6. 33m Up broken walls to the base of the overhang. 7. 40m Right for 12m, up grooves, then across the slab to final short wall and on to top. C.Rathbone, G.Kowalik, Phil Robinson, Nov 76.</climb>
<climb
extra="" grade="21" guide.action="submit" guide.id="36"
guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="9m"
name="Trouble In Paradise" new="false" number="9." stars=""
value="This is the bolted route about 20m right of Stud City, just left of a corner. The first two bolts are missing hangers, but take wires. The climbing isn't great, but there is a single bolt belay and lower off. Roger Parkyn, C.Bye, Nov 92."> This is the bolted route about 20m right of Stud City, just left of a corner. The first two bolts are missing hangers, but take wires. The climbing isn't great, but there is a single bolt belay and lower off. Roger Parkyn, C.Bye, Nov 92.</climb>
<climb
extra="" grade="17" guide.action="submit" guide.id="35"
guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="60m" name="Continuum"
new="false" number="10." stars="***"
value="Why wasn't this gem uncovered earlier? Start at the belay atop the first pitch of Stud City.<br/>1. 30m (17) Follow the diagonal overlap leading right. Initially a bit run out (crux). When the overlap peters out, continue traversing right to belay on the arete.<br/>2. 30m (15) Follow the convoluted depressions up the arete to the top with spaced gear. Great climbing for the grade. Hamish and Marcel Jackson 2/99<br/>">Why wasn't this gem uncovered earlier? Start at the belay atop the first pitch of Stud City.
1. 30m (17) Follow the diagonal overlap leading right. Initially a bit run out (crux). When the overlap peters out, continue traversing right to belay on the arête.
2. 30m (15) Follow the convoluted depressions up the arête to the top with spaced gear. Great climbing for the grade. Hamish and Marcel Jackson Feb 1999.
</climb>
<climb
extra="" grade="19" guide.action="submit" guide.id="33"
guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="100m" name="Stud City"
new="false" number="11." stars="***"
value="The original classic on this part of the cliff, it is highly regarded. Well protected, it takes in the enormous flake that can be seen from just before the horizontal chimney on the sea level traverse. It is much easier to approach along the higher traverse line, the route along the base of these climbs, than from sea level. The climb begins straight above the horizontal chimney by the largest gum tree on the scrubby terrace. <br/>1. 30m (18) Up right trending crack until the large hollow flake is reached. Traverse right, along the flake and up groove to belay on ledges. <br/>2. 40m (19) Continue up to the flake, undercling right along the flake to its end. Move 3m right across slab to belay below water runnel chimney. <br/>3. 30m (19) Move up chimney groove to finger crack, continue up until the climbing gets desperate, at which point it is possible to move left onto the wall, which is climbed to a small ledge and crack. Take the handcrack to top (keep the rope on for the tree-filled corner above ). <br/>B.Kennedy, T.Beaman, R.Muehlin, Jan 77. FFA: H, Rock Daddy, Noel Baby.">The original classic on this part of the cliff, it is highly regarded. Well protected, it takes in the enormous flake that can be seen from just before the horizontal chimney on the sea level traverse. It is much easier to approach along the higher traverse line, the route along the base of these climbs, than from sea level. The climb begins straight above the horizontal chimney by the largest gum tree on the scrubby terrace.
1. 30m (18) Up right trending crack until the large hollow flake is reached. Traverse right, along the flake and up groove to belay on ledges.
2. 40m (19) Continue up to the flake, undercling right along the flake to its end. Move 3m right across slab to belay below water runnel chimney.
3. 30m (19) Move up chimney groove to finger crack, continue up until the climbing gets desperate, at which point it is possible to move left onto the wall, which is climbed to a small ledge and crack. Take the handcrack to top (keep the rope on for the tree-filled corner above). B.Kennedy, T.Beaman, R.Muehlin, Jan 77. FFA: H, Rock Daddy, Noel Baby.</climb>
<climb
extra="" grade="18" length="50m" name="Well Hung" new="false"
number="12."
stars="*">Exciting stuff following a direct continuation of Stud City's big corner. Start up S.C.'s second pitch, but instead of going right across the under-cling flake, take the cracks straight up through the roof/overlap and ultimately take the right hand crack (crux) to the top of the slabs. Passing the overlap turns out to be relatively easy, but pretty exposed. Hamish and Marcel Jackson Feb 1999.
</climb>
<climb
extra="" grade="17" guide.action="submit" guide.id="32"
guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="100m"
name="RP Freedomseeker" new="false" number="13." stars="*"
value="Optional bouldery start through gum leaves to gain the ramp. Otherwise start at Stud City. <br/>1. 35m (17) Climb the right-leading ramp, then up into Stud City and up to belay where a big ledge leads left. <br/>2. 30m (17) Go left into the corner. Climb corner and clean wall on left, then up slab to belay. <br/>3. 35m On to top. Garn Cooper, Al Adams, B. Kennedy, Mar 91.">Optional bouldery start through gum leaves to gain the ramp. Otherwise start at Stud City.
1. 35m (17) Climb the right-leading ramp, then up into Stud City and up to belay where a big ledge leads left.
2. 30m (17) Go left into the corner. Climb corner and clean wall on left, then up slab to belay.
3. 35m On to top. Garn Cooper, Al Adams, B. Kennedy, Mar 91.</climb>
<climb
extra="" grade="19" guide.action="submit" guide.id="31"
guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="16m"
name="Torstein And Back" new="false" number="14." stars=""
value="How can you ignore a line like this? Approx. 4m above the first belay on Hootin and Jivin (belay there). Traverse along the flake to the right. Continue up RP Freedom Seeker, or Stud City, or whatever. G.Cooper, M.Sands, Nov 91."> How can you ignore a line like this? Approx. 4m above the first belay on Hootin and Jivin (belay there). Traverse along the flake to the right. Continue up RP Freedom Seeker, or Stud City, or whatever. G.Cooper, M.Sands, Nov 91.</climb>
<climb
extra="" grade="22" guide.action="submit" guide.id="29"
guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="90m"
name="Hootin And Jivin" new="false" number="15." stars=""
value="Well protected at the difficult sections. Just left of Stud City, below the right hand end of the obvious traverse line. <br/>1. 20m Up, then traverse left, to belay on the ledge after the hard bit. <br/>2. 20m Straight up the corner, stepping left at the huge diagonal to surmount the bulge. <br/>3. 50m Straight up to belay (quite run-out, but easy). Garn Cooper, B.Kennedy, Feb 88.">Well protected at the difficult sections. Just left of Stud City, below the right hand end of the obvious traverse line.
1. 20m Up, then traverse left, to belay on the ledge after the hard bit.
2. 20m Straight up the corner, stepping left at the huge diagonal to surmount the bulge.
3. 50m Straight up to belay (quite run-out, but easy). Garn Cooper, B.Kennedy, Feb 88.</climb><text
class="Discussion">A first rate, but solid (22,19,18,19) outing would be to climb the first pitch of Hootin and Jivin, followed by Torstein and Back, then reverse the traverse of RP Freedomseeker to finish up the last two pitches of Stud City.</text>
<climb
extra="" grade="22" guide.action="submit" guide.id="28"
guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="105m" name="Lubricity"
new="false" number="16." stars=""
value="A good route which combines a very steep start with some beautiful slab climbing above. Awaits a direct third pitch which has been toproped by seconds at grade 18. Five meters right of Kids on Skids, there's a ledge below and to the left of where a short left facing corner broaches the overhanging wall. Begin here. <br/>1. 35m Right along the ledge, then up the corner to a sloping hold and bolt. More desperate moves up and left onto slab, which is followed past two overlaps. Traverse left for 5m under second overlap to a weakness leading back right which is followed. Belay on the ledge above. <br/>2. 30m Straight up passing a bolt in the slab, then slightly left and up to a 5 hex placement in the ocean of granite, then another bolt. Belay beneath the wall. <br/>3. 40m Diagonally right along ledge to a feasible crack system (8m). Up passing a cave on the right before moving back left to a slabby corner. Belay when angle eases. <br/>Pitch 1: Adam Potito, Richard Eccleston Jul 93. Pitch 2-3: A.Hasan, Garn Cooper, Adrian Herington, M.Sands, Jun 1992.">A good route which combines a very steep start with some beautiful slab climbing above. Awaits a direct third pitch which has been top-roped by seconds at grade 18. Five meters right of Kids on Skids, there's a ledge below and to the left of where a short left facing corner broaches the overhanging wall. Begin here.
1. 35m Right along the ledge, then up the corner to a sloping hold and bolt. More desperate moves up and left onto slab, which is followed past two overlaps. Traverse left for 5m under second overlap to a weakness leading back right which is followed. Belay on the ledge above.
2. 30m Straight up passing a bolt in the slab, then slightly left and up to a 5 hex placement in the ocean of granite, then another bolt. Belay beneath the wall.
3. 40m Diagonally right along ledge to a feasible crack system (8m). Up passing a cave on the right before moving back left to a slabby corner. Belay when angle eases.
Pitch 1: Adam Potito, Richard Eccleston Jul 93. Pitch 2-3: A.Hasan, Garn Cooper, Adrian Herington, M.Sands, Jun 1992.</climb>
<climb
extra="" grade="25" length="15m" name="Tic Tac Toe" new="false"
number="17."
stars="">Climbs the overhanging crack between Lubricity and Kids on Skids. Head right to Lubricity once topped out over lip. Kim Robinson 12/8/01.
</climb>
<climb
extra="" grade="18" guide.action="submit" guide.id="26"
guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="95m"
name="Kids On Skids" new="false" number="18." stars="*"
value="A good first pitch. Start 20m right of Cosmic City Flameout 30m left of Stud City, where the overhanging wall changes to a slab, there is a small flake at 5m with some small overlaps above. <br/>1. 20m (18) Up, traverse left to flake, then straight up through overlaps to belay at small one man cave with slot in roof. Gear is relatively sparse and some of the rock is a little suspect. It is possible to rap off a thread here. <br/>2. 45m Step right 2m and up RP crack. When this runs out and the angle eases, go straight up to belay under steep headwall. <br/>3. 30m Step right a little and go up polished cracks above. Garn Cooper, Al Adams, Jan 88.">A good first pitch. Start 20m right of Cosmic City Flameout & 30m left of Stud City, where the overhanging wall changes to a slab, there is a small flake at 5m with some small overlaps above.
1. 20m (18) Up, traverse left to flake, then straight up through overlaps to belay at small one man cave with slot in roof. Gear is relatively sparse and some of the rock is a little suspect. It is possible to rap off a thread here.
2. 45m Step right 2m and up RP crack. When this runs out and the angle eases, go straight up to belay under steep headwall.
3. 30m Step right a little and go up polished cracks above. Garn Cooper, Al Adams, Jan 88.</climb>
<climb
extra="" grade="20" guide.action="submit" guide.id="25"
guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="90m"
name="Don't Land On The Lunch" new="false" number="19."
stars="*"
value="A good route for the first half if you're comfortable on slabs. This route was bolted on lead, so spare a thought for the first ascentionist, who climbed it ground up, before complaining about the lack of bolts and gear. Starts about midway between Cosmic City Flameout and Kids on Skids, below the two, closely positioned, bolts. <br/>1. 45m (20) Straight up past two bolts, trending left to gear. Follow line back right to a cave, past this on the left and follow the vague line to belay at the apex of the triangle (Some cunning runner placements). There is a double bolt belay about 7m above the obvious belay spot. Although you won't reach it with a 50m rope when leading the pitch (it wanders a bit), you can rap back to the ground on double ropes from here (be careful). Alternatively you can traverse right at the cave for approx 10m to the thread belay rap on Kids on Skids. <br/>2. 45m Straight up corner to headwall, then move up obvious crack onto slab, then up to belay. Pitch 1: Al Adams, Garn Cooper, Pete Steane, Feb 90. Pitch 2: Matt Perchard, J.Keane Dec 90.">A good route for the first half if you're comfortable on slabs. This route was bolted on lead, so spare a thought for the first ascentionist, who climbed it ground up, before complaining about the lack of bolts and gear. Starts about midway between Cosmic City Flameout and Kids on Skids, below the two, closely positioned, bolts.
1. 45m (20) Straight up past two bolts, trending left to gear. Follow line back right to a cave, past this on the left and follow the vague line to belay at the apex of the triangle (Some cunning runner placements). There is a double bolt belay about 7m above the obvious belay spot. Although you won't reach it with a 50m rope when leading the pitch (it wanders a bit), you can rap back to the ground on double ropes from here (be careful). Alternatively you can traverse right at the cave for approx 10m to the thread belay rap on Kids on Skids.
2. 45m Straight up corner to headwall, then move up obvious crack onto slab, then up to belay. Pitch 1: Al Adams, Garn Cooper, Pete Steane, Feb 90. Pitch 2: Matt Perchard, J.Keane Dec 90.</climb>
<climb
extra="" grade="19" guide.action="submit" guide.id="24"
guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="150m"
name="Cosmic City Flameout" new="false" number="20." stars="*"
value="About 50m left of Stud City at the bottom of the prominent, white, water-streak. Not very sustained or inspiring, despite it's reputation. I suspect it's popularity may stem from the adequacy of the gear.<br/>1. 30m (19) Move up diagonally left along weakness then 5m up to follow flake. Move up wall above until angle eases. <br/>2. 40m (15) Move easily up wall and slab to belay in small cave. <br/>3. 45m (16) Climb fused corner until quartz veins. Traverse right then up wall to belay. <br/>4. 35m Continue easily to top. B. Kennedy, P. Cullen, Jan 1977.">About 50m left of Stud City at the bottom of the prominent, white, water-streak. Not very sustained or inspiring, despite it's reputation. I suspect it's popularity may stem from the adequacy of the gear. There is (was?) an abseil route down from the top of this route, but it finishes about 10m from the ground, and requires grade 16 down climbing.
1. 30m (19) Move up diagonally left along weakness then 5m up to follow flake. Move up wall above until angle eases.
2. 40m (15) Move easily up wall and slab to belay in small cave.
3. 45m (16) Climb fused corner until quartz veins. Traverse right then up wall to belay.
4. 35m Continue easily to top. B. Kennedy, P. Cullen, Jan 1977.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="18" length="143m"
name="Auntie Helen, There's Something Furry In Your Fridge"
new="false" number="21."
stars="">Not even a strong line. Start as for Fianchetto.
1. 23m As for Fianchetto.
2. 40m Step right then straight up.
3. 40m Straight up slab.
4. 40m Step right, then up delightful scallops to traverse right across a dubious bridge (pons asinorum) below steep headwall. Garn Cooper, P.Cullen, Feb 88.</climb>
<climb
extra="" grade="18" guide.action="submit" guide.id="23"
guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="100m"
name="Fianchetto" new="false" number="22." stars=""
value="A strong line is the best that can be said about this one. Starts 20m left of Cosmic City Flameout at a big steep left facing corner. 1. 23m Up corner, left under roof, then up to belay on big loose flake. 2. 22m Continue up, traversing left under headwall roofs, to belay where drag dictates. 3. 55m Continue left until roofs end, then straight up to finish below steep headwall. Exit right via pons-asinorum. Garn Cooper, B.Kennedy, Feb 88.">A strong line is the best that can be said about this one. Starts 20m left of Cosmic City Flameout at a big steep left facing corner.
1. 23m Up corner, left under roof, then up to belay on big loose flake.
2. 22m Continue up, traversing left under headwall roofs, to belay where drag dictates.
3. 55m Continue left until roofs end, then straight up to finish below steep headwall. Exit right via pons-asinorum. Garn Cooper, B.Kennedy, Feb 88.</climb>
<climb
extra="" grade="17" guide.action="submit" guide.id="19"
guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="190m"
name="Epaminondias" new="false" number="23." stars=""
value="Good at the grade in this part of the world. Start 7m left of Fianchetto, directly below the left hand end of the first roof. <br/>1. 33m Up for 5m, left for 10m, up for 10m, left for 5m, up for 3m. Awkward belay. <br/>2. 47m Up for 3m, left for 10m, up for 5m, right for 3m to attain crack, then up this passing steep corner to slab above. <br/>3. 20m Up slab to top. Exit right via the pons-asinorum. Garn Cooper, Al Adams, Jan 90.">Good at the grade in this part of the world. Start 7m left of Fianchetto, directly below the left hand end of the first roof.
1. 33m Up for 5m, left for 10m, up for 10m, left for 5m, up for 3m. Awkward belay.
2. 47m Up for 3m, left for 10m, up for 5m, right for 3m to attain crack, then up this passing steep corner to slab above.
3. 20m Up slab to top. At this point it is possible to exit right via the pons-asinorum.
4. 50m Climb up about 8m, then traverse left and across the cave. Climb the line leading out the top of the cave to belay at the foot of a short laid back corner.
5. 40m Up corner then up the terraces. Dave Gardner, Garn Cooper, Fat Boy Buckley, Mar 93.
Pitches 1-3: Garn Cooper, Al Adams, Jan 90. Pitches 4,5: Dave Gardner, Garn Cooper, Fat Boy Buckley, Mar 93 (used to be called the Fat Boy Variant).</climb>
<text
class="heading3"
new="false">Main Wall Left Hand Side</text>
<text
class="Discussion">The following climbs start downhill to the left of Epaminondas and are most quickly approached along the sealevel traverse if the swell permits this. They are described R-L to continue on from the previous section.</text><image
new="false" noPrint="false" src="coles bay hmw left.jpg"
width="600"/>
<climb extra=""
grade="19" guide.action="submit" guide.id="16" guide.page="0"
guide.type="climb" length="65m" name="The Laughing Jackass"
new="false" number="25." stars=""
value="Feeling mortal? Then stay ground-bound. About 40m right of the corner near the left margin of the cliff, at the easiest place to breach the overhang until you reach Epaminondas, moving right. Near the lowest point of the cliff. <br/>1. 35m Surmount bulge and climb to just above the tree at 10m. Step left 3m climb up to belay at first opportunity. <br/>2. 30m Pick your way up to the strong diagonal ramp 20m below the major headwall. Traverse 20m down the ramp to the left and either abseil off (a single rope will get you low enough to downclimb at about grade 6) or continue up Griphon or Trusting Rust. Garn Cooper, R.Sellers, Jan 90.">Feeling mortal? Then stay ground-bound. About 40m right of the corner near the left margin of the cliff, at the easiest place to breach the overhang until you reach Epaminondas, moving right. Near the lowest point of the cliff.
1. 35m Surmount bulge and climb to just above the tree at 10m. Step left 3m climb up to belay at first opportunity.
2. 30m Pick your way up to the strong diagonal ramp 20m below the major headwall. Traverse 20m down the ramp to the left and either abseil off (a single rope will get you low enough to downclimb at about grade 6) or continue up Griphon or Trusting Rust. Garn Cooper, R.Sellers, Jan 90.</climb>
<climb
extra="" grade="20" length="53m" name="The Artistic Fibber"
new="false" number="26."
stars="">Start 12m right of Japhlion, at the 3m tea tree growing at the foot of the cliff. Carefully preserving the necessary tree, climb up it and onto the cliff. Up and then a tricky, reachy move right, then up trickily to a good little ledge on the slab. Traverse right and then follow the obvious line to the top passing three bolts. Take a swag of RP's. Al Adams Garn Cooper, 1991.</climb>
<climb
extra="" grade="17" length="50m" name="What A Crafty Snail"
new="false" number="27."
stars="*">Start as for Japhlion. Up this for 5m, then traverse right 12m past 2 bolts, to the line. Climb up passing 3 bolts to the top. To exit, traverse left and abseil off tea tree. According to Garn, the route is quite secure and a good route to get your confidence up on. Garn Cooper, Al Adams Jul 91.</climb>
<climb
extra="" grade="18" guide.action="submit" guide.id="13"
guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="50m"
name="Trusting Rust (Direct Start)" new="false" number="28."
stars="*"
value="Up Japhlion for 5m, then traverse right to the second bolt, then left slightly and straight up passing 2 bolts, friend pocket and wire placement to the top. Garn Cooper, Al Adams, Jul 91.">Up Japhlion for 5m, then traverse right to the second bolt, then left slightly and straight up passing 2 bolts, friend pocket and wire placement to the top. Garn Cooper, Al Adams, Jul 91.</climb>
<climb
extra="" grade="18" guide.action="submit" guide.id="12"
guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="230m"
name="Trusting Rust" new="false" number="29." stars=""
value="An adventure of rare difficulty and deviation, this route has a strong rightward trend due to the first and third pitches. Start as for Japhlion. <br/>1. 50m Up this for 10m then move diagonally right for 10m past an inverted pocket and good wire placement. Continue up the excellent slab to good holds and belay. <br/>2. 50m Traverse right until you can move up onto the slab via a detached block. Keep ~15m right of the small broken overlap then head straight up the slab to belay at flake in 8m polished water streak, approx. 3m below large overlap (a ropestretcher). <br/>3. 50m Move to the right-hand end of the overlap and belay in the scrubby chute (another ropestretcher). <br/>4. 25m Move up about 8m, then left below roof then across cave to blocks and belay. 5. 30m Step left on face holds then up crack to corner. Up corner to belay. <br/>6. 25m Continue easily to top. Evan Peacock, J.Kennedy Jun 1984.">An adventure of rare difficulty and deviation, this route has a strong rightward trend due to the first and third pitches. Start as for Japhlion.
1. 50m Up this for 10m then move diagonally right for 10m past an inverted pocket and good wire placement. Continue up the excellent slab to good holds and belay.
2. 50m Traverse right until you can move up onto the slab via a detached block. Keep ~15m right of the small broken overlap then head straight up the slab to belay at flake in 8m polished water streak, approx. 3m below large overlap (a ropestretcher).
3. 50m Move to the right-hand end of the overlap and belay in the scrubby chute (another ropestretcher).
4. 25m Move up about 8m, then left below roof then across cave to blocks and belay.
5. 30m Step left on face holds then up crack to corner. Up corner to belay.
6. 25m Continue easily to top. Evan Peacock, J.Kennedy Jun 1984.</climb>
<climb
extra="" grade="19" guide.action="submit" guide.id="11"
guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="280m" name="Griphon"
new="false" number="30." stars=""
value="Start as for Japhlion. <br/>1. 50m Up flake to where Japhlion heads left whereupon this climb goes up to recess at 35m. Up left to ramp then back to right hand end of wall. <br/>2. 10m Up wall to belay below small overlap above stacked blocks. <br/>3. 40m Up easy slabs moving left near top. Belay on water streak below weakness in large overlap. <br/>5. 45m Surmount overlap, step right, then up to overlap. Up to bushy ledge. <br/>6. 40m Bash up scrub to slab below wall. Walk right to end of slab and shattered blocks. <br/>7. 20m Climb slanting corner with difficulty. <br/>8. 75m Scramble easily to top. D.Hain, B.Kennedy, Dec 75.">Start as for Japhlion.
1. 50m Up flake to where Japhlion heads left whereupon this climb goes up to recess at 35m. Up left to ramp then back to right hand end of wall.
2. 10m Up wall to belay below small overlap above stacked blocks.
3. 40m Up easy slabs moving left near top. Belay on water streak below weakness in large overlap.
5. 45m Surmount overlap, step right, then up to overlap. Up to bushy ledge.
6. 40m Bash up scrub to slab below wall. Walk right to end of slab and shattered blocks.
7. 20m Climb slanting corner with difficulty.
8. 75m Scramble easily to top. D.Hain, B.Kennedy, Dec 75.</climb>
<text
class="Discussion">About 100-150m past the horizontal chimney on the Sea Level Traverse, the base of the wall reaches its Lowest Point at about 60m above sea level. About 40m left of this low point is a right-facing corner, about 45m high and 2m deep. The walls low point and the right-facing corner are both clear reference points, and Japhlion starts between them at the most obvious easy line.</text>
<climb
extra="" grade="16" guide.action="submit" guide.id="10"
guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="230m" name="Japhlion"
new="false" number="31." stars="***"
value="A classic adventure. Approx. 150m past the horizontal chimney on the sea level traverse there is a scrubby terrace about 70m above sea level. The route starts 15m right of main corner on the left hand edge of the terrace and 25m left of the cliffs low point, at the obvious easy line defined by a vegetated flakey corner which disappears at about 20m. Belays are marked by blue surveyors tape (at least at the time of writing, but they have a habit of disappearing ). <br/>1. 50m Move up slight corner then up to hollow flake at 20m. Move left a few metres then up slab to belay where angle eases. (This pitch may be a shade long) <br/>2. 45m Up slab to crack and overlap, then straight up centre of slab to belay in tiny cave on the slab. <br/>3. 50m Straight up on to slab then up, staying left of the right hand crack gully which is the source of protection, to belay in gully on right 15m below a steep corner. <br/>4. 45m Up to below steep corner. Layback and jam this and up awkward short chimney to the ledge. Up thin crack tending right to belay. <br/>5. 50m Up slabs easily to top. B.Kennedy, D.Hain, Jan 74.">A classic adventure. Approx. 150m past the horizontal chimney on the sea level traverse there is a scrubby terrace about 70m above sea level. The route starts 15m right of main corner on the left hand edge of the terrace and 25m left of the cliffs low point, at the obvious easy line defined by a vegetated flakey corner which disappears at about 20m. Belays are marked by blue surveyors tape (at least at the time of writing, but they have a habit of disappearing).
1. 50m Move up slight corner then up to hollow flake at 20m. Move left a few metres then up slab to belay where angle eases. (This pitch may be a shade long)
2. 45m Up slab to crack and overlap, then straight up centre of slab to belay in tiny cave on the slab.
3. 50m Straight up on to slab then up, staying left of the right hand crack gully which is the source of protection, to belay in gully on right 15m below a steep corner.
4. 45m Up to below steep corner. Layback and jam this and up awkward short chimney to the ledge. Up thin crack tending right to belay.
5. 50m Up slabs easily to top. B.Kennedy, D.Hain, Jan 74.</climb>
<climb
extra="" grade="15" guide.action="submit" guide.id="8"
guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="240m" name="Pneisses"
new="false" number="32." stars=""
value="Also still a classic. After the first pitch this route has a distinct leftward trend, due mainly to the second pitch. Begin at the first scrubby crack left (about 8m) of right facing corner. <br/>1. 45m Up the crack for about 8 - 10m until confident enough to move right onto the slab, then head for top righthand corner of slab. Drop off edge of slab and go up about 6m to belay in corner. <br/>2. 40m Step right onto slab, then move up the slab, trending left, but staying right of the vegetation. Belay in the gully on the right. <br/>3. 35m Continue up the left slab to bush belay. <br/>4. 45m Up slab, trending slightly left to bush belay below wall. <br/>5. 45m Up walls and slab moving left then up to bush belay. <br/>6. 30m Easily to top. B.Kennedy, D.Hain Jan 75">Also still a classic. After the first pitch this route has a distinct leftward trend, due mainly to the second pitch. Begin at the first scrubby crack left (about 8m) of right facing corner.
1. 45m Up the crack for about 8 - 10m until confident enough to move right onto the slab, then head for top righthand corner of slab. Drop off edge of slab and go up about 6m to belay in corner.
2. 40m Step right onto slab, then move up the slab, trending left, but staying right of the vegetation. Belay in the gully on the right.
3. 35m Continue up the left slab to bush belay.
4. 45m Up slab, trending slightly left to bush belay below wall.
5. 45m Up walls and slab moving left then up to bush belay.
6. 30m Easily to top. B.Kennedy, D.Hain Jan 75</climb>
<climb
extra="" grade="19" guide.action="submit" guide.id="7"
guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="35m"
name="Pneisses (Direct Start)" new="false" number="33." stars=""
value="Ten meters left of Japhlion, and a few metres right of the main right facing corner. 1. 35m Up slab on thin holds following fused crack. 2. As for Pneisses. Adrian Herington, B.Kennedy Jun 1984.">Ten meters left of Japhlion, and a few metres right of the main right facing corner. 1. 35m Up slab on thin holds following fused crack. 2. As for Pneisses. Adrian Herington, B.Kennedy Jun 1984.</climb>
<climb
extra="" grade="9" guide.action="submit" guide.id="6"
guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="350m"
name="Pooch Slab" new="false" number="34." stars=""
value="Left of Japhlion at a corner. 1. Move up crack and onto the slab. Up slab to a small wall belay. 2. Up corner 3m and across easy slabs to next wall. 3. Up crack onto next slab. Follow this up to gulley to the left of the steep slab. 4. Move left out of gulley onto easy angled slabs and straight up slab. Belay on scrub. 5. Continue up slab to easy angled scrubby section above. Walk to base of next vertical section. 6. Up 15m wall. Move right from top of wall to gully in corner at head of the gully. 7. Easy scramble up gully to top of the cliff. J.Foden, S.Karpiniec Jan 74">Left of Japhlion at a corner. 1. Move up crack and onto the slab. Up slab to a small wall belay. 2. Up corner 3m and across easy slabs to next wall. 3. Up crack onto next slab. Follow this up to gulley to the left of the steep slab. 4. Move left out of gulley onto easy angled slabs and straight up slab. Belay on scrub. 5. Continue up slab to easy angled scrubby section above. Walk to base of next vertical section. 6. Up 15m wall. Move right from top of wall to gully in corner at head of the gully. 7. Easy scramble up gully to top of the cliff. J.Foden, S.Karpiniec Jan 74</climb>
<text
class="heading3" new="false"
number="null.">The Suzuki Complex</text><text
class="Discussion">The Suzuki Complex is situated above Hazards Main Wall ~10m on the seaward side of the Skyline traverse track 30 minutes walk from Sleepy Bay. The cliff faces towards the sea and is just below the walk-off route for the longer Hazards Main Wall routes.</text>
<climb
grade="19" length="15m" name="Luxury Leather Goods" number=""
stars=""> Ascends the steep curving crack initally on fingers then widening to hands. The route is 2m left of the arete that is left of The Bullshit Factor. Roger Parkyn Jan 91.</climb>
<climb
grade="20" length="15m" name="The Bullshit Factor" number=""
stars=""> The uncompromising dihedral whose left wall is slightly overhanging. Sustained. Jack Keane Jan 91</climb>
<climb
grade="21" length="15m" name="Osmotic Tension" number=""
stars=""> Take the crack straight above the base of the leaning gum tree, 20m right of The Bullshit Factor. Good wires protect the face above. Roger Parkyn Jan 91</climb><text
class="heading3">The Underworld</text><text
class="Discussion">This crag is found by heading down towards the water where the Skyline Traverse leaves the Sea-level Traverse. There is an ampitheatre of steep pink granite undercut by a large cave.</text>
<climb
extra="" grade="18" guide.action="submit" guide.id="53"
guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="12m"
name="Corner Part-2" new="false" number="" stars=""
value="As you traverse down the southern side of the crag you pass a series of short easy corners. This is the closest to the sea with a small roof at the top, starts off a terrace 12m above the ocean. Roxanne Wells, Pete Steane, Apr 94."> As you traverse down the southern side of the crag you pass a series of short easy corners. This is the closest to the sea with a small roof at the top, starts off a terrace 12m above the ocean. Roxanne Wells, Pete Steane, Apr 94.</climb>
<climb
extra="" grade="26" guide.action="submit" guide.id="54"
guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="12m"
name="The Wind Below" new="false" number="" stars=""
value="The arete just right of Corner Part-2 (with rusty carrots). Gordon Poultney, Donna Bridge 1997."> The arête just right of Corner Part-2 (with rusty carrots). Gordon Poultney, Donna Bridge 1997.</climb>
<climb
extra="" grade="22" guide.action="submit" guide.id="55"
guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="27m" name="Jabberwock"
new="false" number="" stars="**"
value="Steep, strenuous and well protected. Starts left of the caves entrance. Step R then steeply to horizontal, left 3m to flake, up this to thinner flake above. Pete Steane, Roxanne Wells, Apr 94."> Steep, strenuous and well protected. Starts left of the caves entrance. Step R then steeply to horizontal, left 3m to flake, up this to thinner flake above. Pete Steane, Roxanne Wells, Apr 94.</climb>
<climb
extra="" grade="24" guide.action="submit" guide.id="56"
guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="24m"
name="Slithy Tove" new="false" number="" stars="*"
value="First half as for Jabberwock, but rather than traversing left to flake, traverse right 2m past a hole to another crack, follow this through overlap with good pro. Pete Steane, Roxanne Wells, Apr 94. FFA R. Parkyn 1997."> First half as for Jabberwock, but rather than traversing left to flake, traverse right 2m past a hole to another crack, follow this through overlap with good pro. Pete Steane, Roxanne Wells, Apr 94. FFA R. Parkyn 1997.</climb>
<climb
extra="Þ" grade="26" length="20m" name="Via Magna" new="false"
number="" stars="***"
value="Out the left side of the cave past many bits of glue and metal. John Fisher, Mar 95."> Out the left side of the cave past many bits of glue and metal. John Fisher, Mar 95.</climb>
<climb
extra="Þ" grade="27" guide.action="submit" guide.id="58"
guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="20m"
name="Travels by Dragonfly" new="false" number="" stars=""
value="Right of the cave. Follow the line of bolts from the hanging belay. Dave Jones, Gordon Poultney, 22/2/95."> Right of the cave. Follow the line of bolts from the hanging belay. Dave Jones, Gordon Poultney, 22/2/95.</climb>
<climb
extra="Þ" grade="24" length="16m" name="Nunc Dimitis"
new="false" number="" stars="***"
value="The wall with 4 bolts right of Travels by Dragonfly. A boulder problem start out of a slot and exit right avoiding the final wall at the top. No anchor. Superb. John Fisher Mar 95"> The wall with 4 bolts right of Travels by Dragonfly. A boulder problem start out of a slot and exit right avoiding the final wall at the top. No anchor. Superb. John Fisher Mar 95</climb>
<climb
extra="" grade="22" guide.action="submit" guide.id="60"
guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="20m"
name="Waters of Oblivion" new="false" number="" stars=""
value="The sculpted arete on the right edge of the Underworld provides a struggle, with a final harder move well left of the arete. The rock and the climbing aren't that good. Originally climbed with a long sling protecting the hard upper moves, the first ascentionist planned to return and place a bolt. He never did, but feel free. John Fisher Mar 95."> The sculpted arête on the right edge of the Underworld provides a struggle, with a final harder move well left of the arête. The rock and the climbing aren't that good. Originally climbed with a long sling protecting the hard upper moves, the first ascentionist planned to return and place a bolt. He never did, but feel free. John Fisher Mar 95.</climb>
<climb
grade="22" length="15m" name="Superbrinkmanslip" number=""
stars="**"> A wonderful deep-water solo, on the seaward side of the huge fish shaped boulder, at the northern entrance to the Underworld. Abseil to a stance on a ledge below the mouth and get a friend to pull up the rope. Climb small pockets to a L leading traverse. Follow this and finish straight up to the ridge. Nick Hancock February 2003.</climb><text
class="heading3" new="false"
number="null.">Insomnia Wall</text><text class="text"
new="false"
number="null.">At the last gulch on the track to Sleepy Bay, descend to the very steep north facing wall by the sea.</text>
<climb
extra="5B" grade="25" length="10m" name="Insomnia" new="false"
number=""
stars="**">Left-hand line with a sloper start. Lower off. Nick Hancock Apr 04.
</climb>
<climb
extra="4B" grade="" length="10m" name="Project" new="false"
number="" stars=""/>
<climb extra="5B" grade="22" length="10m"
name="Weffy" new="false" number="" stars="*">From cairn climb right then up to lower off. Doug McConnell Apr 04.
</climb>
</guide>
|