<?xml version="1.0" encoding="UTF-8"?>
<guide guidestars="***">
<text
class="heading1">Frenchmans Cap Guide</text>
<text
class="heading2">Acknowledgement</text><text
class="text">The text and topos of this guide are mainly from Phil Robinson's 1979 guide, and are used with permission. In Phil's guide he acknowleges the help of Reg Williams, Dave Neilson, Wilf Elvey, Basil Rathbone, Ken Harvey, Ian Ross, Peter Jackson (who drew the topos), Chris Dewhirst, Vili Bartholomew, Glen Kowalik and the CCT.
This guide also contains route descriptions first published in the 1991 Rock Guide by Stephen Bunton, in Rock, and in the CCT newsletter.</text><text
class="heading2">Introduction</text>
<text
class="text">The Frenchmans Cap complex takes the form of a horseshoe shaped range, open to the south east, with the Frenchman itself dominant on the western rim. The environment is spectacular, challenging and beautiful, its physical features sculptured by the Pleistocene glaciation which determined the character of most of our high country. West and north the land falls steeply to the gorges of the Franklin. Tarns nestle high on the shoulders of the mountain, while between the encircling amss of the horseshoe, overlooked by the great East and South East Faces, dark lakes are set in rich rainforest which rises from the valley floor to terminate beneath walls and towers of white quartzite.
Three miles of secondary peaks and crags cone around to connect the Cap with Philps Peak, the highest point on the eastern arm of the range, while the southward arm extends a mile to its southern limit at Clytemnestra.
</text><text
class="heading2">Climate</text><text
class="text">Being close to the west coast in the path of the prevailing westerly airstream at an altitude of 4734 feet (1413 metres) Frenchmans Cap is one of the wettest places in Tasmania. No direct rainfall records are available but the long term average would be in the vicinity of 140 inches per year. Though Tasmanian rainfall is fairly well distributed throughout the year, the period from late autumn through to early summer is the wettest. Records and experience indicate that the time between late January and the end of March offers the best chance of a dry trip. Snowfall is heaviest in winter, but can occur at any time, so parties are advised to take weather into account when planning trips, and particularly when anticipating bivouacs on the longer routes.
Frenchmans has been climbed in winter under snow conditions and an account of such a trip appears in Skyline No. 12 (Launceston Balking Club magazine). In July 1978 two walkers were unlucky enough to be trapped by 7 feet of snow at Lake Tahune hut. Down to their last scraps of food after several days they were rescued during a short break in the weather by helicopter. Given the right snow conditions however there is ample scope for winter mountaineering on the Cap and its ancillary ridges.
</text><text
class="heading2">Historical Notes</text><text
class="text">The Frenchman was probably first sighted from out to sea off the west coast. It is clearly visible from Macquarie Harbour and its 'bald dome' is referred to in early writing in connection with the Sarah Island convict settlement (1322-1837). The first recorded ascent of the mountain was by surveyor James Sprent in 1853. We owe the present track to the efforts of Government track cutter Philp in 1910. The track was allowed to decay for many years but was re-opened in the 1930s, by which time the mountain had received a number of visitors. It is now a popular venue for walking trips. Climbers began to appear on the scene in the early 1960s, attracted by the challenge of the great quartzite walls, up till then unclimbed, and perhaps too by the magnificent surroundings. Attention has increased, until today virtually all major features have been climbed, some by several routes. It could be said that with the ascent of the East Face, the era of conquest has passed. Future activities will be in the nature of consolidation and development and, of course, repeat ascents of the quality routes already established.</text><text
class="heading2">Conservation</text><text
class="text">Frenchmans Cap was proclaimed a National Park in 1941 and now covers 10214 hectares. A severe fire swept through the alpine area in November 1966 and from 1971 the view of the HEC Franklin exploration road at Mt. McCall reduced the wilderness value of the Park, To the north and west the mighty Franklin River encircles the mountain. The flooding proposed by the Hydro-Electric Commission in the potential Lower Gordon-Franklin-King scheme would cause visual pollution from the Cap. Man-made lakes, further roads and drowned trees would seriously ruin the present wild beauty of the region.
TO DO - update this!</text><text
class="heading2">Access</text><text
class="text">The walking track commences at the Lyell Highway 206km from Hobart and 54km from Queenstown. Tahune Hut is approximately 25km from the road and can be reached in one day given a reasonably early start. Climbing parties with heavy packs may prefer to break the journey at Lake Vera, four to five hours in. The track is rough, but adequate, though somewhat muddy in wet weather, especially on the South Loddon plains ("Sodden Loddons") and Philps Lead. A highlight of the walk in, in good weather, is the sudden and confronting view of the Cap from the top of Barron Pass.
There is a daily bus service from Hobart to Queenstown and parties travelling west can be set down at the start of the track in the early afternoon with sufficient time to reach Lake Vera.</text><text
class="heading2">Huts and Campsites</text><text
class="text">Lake Vera
1 The old Vera hut, built in 1962, is situated south west of the track by a lakeside swamp. It is in poor condition and may be dismantled by the National Park authorities.
2 Michael's Hut. Completed in March 1979, situated approximately 50 metres north east of the Vera Creek crossing on a scrubby knoll. It has two large bunks catering for approximately 16 people; design is 'open plan' with a pot-bellied stove.
Lake Tahune
Completed in 1971, the Tahune but is comfortable and weatherproof with bunks far 12 people. It is often full in summer. Living area is small and the stove leaves something to be desired. It is better to cook outside with views of the Tahune Face and distant mountains.
Tahune is an excellent base for climbing activities and most climbs can be reached from here in less than one hour. The surroundings of the lake were devastated in 1966 by a fire started irresponsibly along the Lyell Highway. Fortunately regrowth is now well underway and the area shows promise of regaining much of its former beauty.
Campsites:
Loddon River - At the crossing.
Philps Creek - 3km south of the Loddon Crossing.
Lake Vera - There are numerous dry campsites in the scrub just beyond the creek.
Lake Tahune - The hut is better in bad weather. </text><text
class="heading2">The Rock</text><text
class="text">Frenchmans Cap is composed of a massive, resistant quartzite interspersed with occasional bands of schist. Though some climbs have a considerable amount of loose material on them the rock is generally sound. When dry it has reasonable friction characteristics except for some patches of extremely hard, glassy quartzite.
This latter material has few cracks and offers hide protection. However, over most or the cliffs nut protection is available. Quartzite is not always suitable for piton placements as brittle rock sometimes splits off in blocks when a peg is forced in. A wide range of nuts is adequate for most routes.
</text><text
class="heading2">Grading</text><text
class="text">Australian numerical grading (Ewbank system) is used throughout this guide. Grades of old climbs have been translated into this system (Grade 15 approximately equal to 5+).</text><text
class="heading2">The Western Arm</text><image
src="WesternArm.png" width="600"/><text
class="heading3">Clytemnestra</text>
<climb extra=""
grade="13" length="" name="South-east Summit and Twisted Towers"
number=""
stars="*">Pleasant peak-bagging. Descend to the col below the first of the Twisted Towers to start.
1)15m Climb this tower and descend same way.
2) From the same starting point, descend on the W to start below the gap between the first two towers. Climb 6 m up between these towers until it is possible to crawl through to the E face.
3) (crux) Traverse easily R from the previous starting point to climb 15 m up a crack in the R wall.
4) 12 m Scramble up and down Tower Two.
5) Traverse L to col then up arete and L to chimney. Up it then R to SE summit.
Chris Baxter, Phillip Stranger, Reg Williams (solo except for crux) 17-2-68 </climb>
<text
class="heading3">South-West Wall</text>
<text
class="text">This is the far side of Frenchmans Cap from Lake Tahune.</text>
<climb
extra="" grade="12" length="150m" name="Western Slab Route"
number=""
stars="">Access is N from W Col. Start at the first slab encountered.
1) 50 m Slab.
2) L to spike. Up crack to flake.
3) L and up arete overlooking gully.
4) Continue up arete.
5) Surmount overhanging chockstone. Up corner (difficult).
Mike Douglas, John Fairhall (alt) Easter 62 </climb>
<climb
extra="" grade="13" length=""
name="Western Slab Route Alternate Finish" number=""
stars="">1) and 2) As for WSR.
3a) Up vertical wall. R along sloping terrace. Directly up, finishing in gully.
Ian Brown (solo) 74 </climb>
<climb
extra="" grade="" length="" name="South-west Wall Chimney"
number=""
stars="">The obvious chimney.
Bryden Allen, Mike March 72
</climb>
<text
class="heading3">South-East Face</text>
<image
src="SouthEast2.png" width="400"/><climb extra="" grade="10"
length="200m" name="Southern Parapet"
stars="*">
A great climb up the SW arete, on the L side of the SE face.
R Sykes, Mike Douglas (alt) 12-63
</climb>
<text
class="text">Frenchmans Cap Topo
</text>
<climb extra=""
grade="17" length="270m" name="The Chimes of Freedom" number=""
stars="***">The most sought-after route on the face; a considerable undertaking which has become something of a test piece. Takes the most plausible route up the L side of the face, utilising the obvious ramp in a left-facing corner. Start from a small col below the ramp.
1) 30m Wander up steeply towards the ramp.
2) 30m More easily to the base of the ramp.
3) 24m Up to a grassy ledge with pandani - can be comfortably reached in two pitches.
4) 18m (crux) Corner to small stance on R.
5) 35m Corner-crack to base of a chimney.
6) 27m The chimney or, preferably, its R arete to a large ledge.
7) 20m L and up with poor protection, aiming for the foot of the dark corner.
8) 18m (This was the hardest pitch on the FA.) Ascend the corner before escaping R and up to a ledge. Head back L to a corner.
9) 35m Follow the corner for 18m before escaping L over loose blocks.
10) 35m L round the corner then easily up.
John Moore, John Ewbank (alt)18-2-68. FFA (three aids on pitch 4) Dave Neilson, Chris Dewhirst (alt) 1-70
</climb>
<climb
extra="" grade="" length="400m" name="Valerie" number=""
stars="">A monumental undertaking! This serious route follows the prominent line of weakness carved deep into the R side of the SE Face. The route has probably not been repeated and awaits a FFA. Start L of the main buttress which is directly below the summit of Frenchmans Cap. Go up scree in the gully to find a vegetated crack and belay knob.
1) 35m L up the grassy corner to a sloping ledge.
2) 20m Traverse 6 m L before ascending to below an overhanging wall.
3) 35m Get on to the wall by going down then L; up it to the top of a huge boulder.
4) 27m Follow the good ledge L before rising diagonally to a stance beside the L of a waterfall.
5) 33m Up R across the waterfall to a good ledge.
6) 24m L for 6m before climbing to a bollard runner. Descend so as to cross the waterfall again and find a good ledge below loose rocks.
7) 35m (aid crux) Free for 15 m then aid for 15 m. 6m of free-climbing yields a watery ledge.
8) 15m (free crux) A few moves of aid followed by some slimy free-climbing to a good ledge below an overhang.
9) 35m R for 3m then up for 9m to gain a diagonal line up R, which leads to a flaring chimney. Up it to a belay.
10) 27m Continue in the chimney.
11) 30m Escape from the chimney 9m before the overhang by moving R, and ascending diagonally to a good ledge.
12) 35 m Corners and steep walls to a ledge below another chimney.
13) 27 m The chimney (three aids where it narrows) to a ledge.
14) 15m Crack (two aids) to rubble slope.
Chris Dewhirst, John Ewbank, John Moore, Phillip Stranger (var) 16-2-68
</climb>
<climb
extra="" grade="22" length="340m" name="The Natimuk Route"
stars="">Crack system just L of arete, on buttress between Valerie and The Sydney Route. (Described start may be frequently be wet, in which case it might be better to begin by way of SR Direct Start. ) Start 40m uphill from SR.
1) 50m (16) Short, steep crack, then R along ramp. Cross seepage, then up to ledge (poor belay).
2) 40m (16) Traverse R round arete, then up to large terrace (fifth stance of Valerie).
3) 50m (17) Up to crack system. Swap into L crack after a few metres, then wall above (no pro) to L-leading sickle. Follow this, then R to grassy ledge at base of thin crack.
4) 30m (equal crux) Beautiful crack and corner to belay in alcove just below detached pinnacle on R.
5) 30m (equal crux) L wall to ledge (no belay possible). Boldly up R to prominent crack in roof. Through this, then L along cracks to ledge. (Pitches 4 and 5 led as one pitch on FA.)
6) 45m (15) Cracks near arete to ledge.
7) 60m (18) R crack, then easier ground past ledges to stance below steepening.
8) 40m (20) Steep crack to summit.
Simon Mentz, Steve Monks (alt) 6-3-95
</climb>
<climb
extra="" grade="17" length="380m" name="The Sydney Route"
number=""
stars="***">A classic of the cliff and its most open repeated climb. In keeping with the imagery of a 'Frenchmans Cap' this, the first route up the face, was originally named 'A Toi la Gloire' (Thine be the glory). Start as for Valerie. The route takes the next prominent weakness to the R.
1) 35m Up the crack before heading R up the unpleasant ramp.
2) 35m Go easily R through the obstacle course to the base of a chimney, pass a flake, and then scramble to the chimney top. The real climbing begins here.
3) 18m Diagonally L to a rocky terrace.
4) 35m Diagonally R to a detached pinnacle. PB.
5) 24m Chimney for 12m then avoid the overhang by the rotten rock to the L of a small corner.
6) 30m Up R to the chimney and climb it. Wild! Continue up the L crack then head R and up to PB.
7) 30m Up R to a corner past a PR. Sustained climbing past a ledge on the L for a further 6m.
8) 30m Poorly protected. Traverse 6 m L round the corner to a faint line. Climb up to a good ledge but continue 3m to the top of a block. (David Jenkins, Rohan Hyslop and Lucy Collaery accidentally did a grade-19 variant to this pitch in 2-90. It apparently heads up towards the roofs R of the original pitch before rejoining the original climb.)
9) 20m (crux) L'Escalier du Diable (The Devil's Stairway). Up across the L wall to the arete and a small ledge.
10) 35 m Tentatively down L into the chimney leading to the top.
11) 30 m Ascend the chimney, surmounting the large boulder.
12) 30 m An action replay.
13) 30 m Ramble up the summit jugs.
Bryden Allen, Jack Pettigrew 7-1-65. FFA (one aid on pitch 9) Chris Dewhirst, Dave Neilson (alt) 1-70
</climb>
<climb
extra="" grade="14" length="62m"
name="The Sydney Route Direct Start"
stars="**">Avoids the bushwalker's dilemma climbed initially. Start atop a grassy knoll directly below the route. Aim for the large chimney of pitch 3.
1a) 27m Up L following the obvious line.
2a) 35m Up and L. Step on to the L wall and gain the large ledge. R to the big chimney and the start of the route proper.
Bryden Allen, Reg Williams (alt) 2-75
</climb>
<climb
extra="" grade="16" length="370m" name="The Melbourne Variant"
stars="*">A problem with route finding high on the face uncovered this little gem.
1) to 7) As for SR.
8a) 22m Traverse L for 6m as for SR then continue traversing for a further 9 m. Step down L to gain the obvious line with the overhang towering 15m above.
9a) 24 m (crux) Climb up and L for 5 m. Go awkwardly round the corner and 9 m up the wall to PR. Continue up to a good ledge.
10a) 30 m Up 5m to PR. Traverse R to the overhanging crack. Up the filth to rejoin the original route in the exit chimney.
11) to 13) As for SR.
Chris Baxter, Chris Dewhirst (alt) 1 9-2-66
</climb>
<climb
extra="" grade="18+" length="300m+" name="Brisbane Line"
stars="">Start as for Sydney Route Direct Start but go immediately up L.
1) 45m (17) Tend up L (may be wet).
2) 35m As for SR. Scramble over boulders to R, then ramp behind block.
3) 25m (15) Up out of chimney, then vegetated ramp to top. Up, tending slightly R. Belay on ledge which slopes up R at top.
4) 35m (crux of new climbing) Up from belay to runner - make it a good one, it may be your last. Traverse up R to crack, then up R of detached pillar. Belay behind this. (Some old gear may be in evidence here.)
5) 30m (14) Directly across L on good traverse. Up to chimney. Belay above blocks perched in cracks.
6-9) As for SR except start pitch six a little higher.
10) 50m (11) Angle up L of good holds into chimney, then up to "landing pad".
11) 30m (14) Chimney, heading R into other chimneys. Continue to mega-stance.
12) 50m (8) Step out on L wall. After a few moves stand up and run across pasture. Take L gully to top.
13) Wander up gully to summit.
Dayle Gilliatt, Phil Dolan 14-2-89
</climb>
<text
class="heading3">The East Face</text><text
class="text">Beneath the right-hand boundary of the face is an enormous pointed gendarme (500ft+) called Terray's Tower. The old "North-East Passage" and "Fleur-De-Lis" lie to the north of the Tower. "Waterloo Road" and "Napoleon" are on the south side. "Conquistador" is in the middle of the East Face. </text><climb
extra="" grade="23" length="330m"
name="The De Gaulles Nose Route" number=""
stars="***">De Gaulles Nose is the main arete between the SE Face and the E Face. The 'nose' is the prominent roof seen in profile. Start 50 m R of the nose at a chossy corner at the top of the vegetated ramps.
1) 40m Up corners to bushy ledge. L to trees.
2) 40m (20) L to foot of corners. Up past ancient PR and blocks to ledge.
3) 15m (21) Up shallow corner on R to horizontal break.
4) 50m (23) L to crack. Up past roof and up overhanging crack to ramp. Up crack on L to large ledge.
5) 50m (21) From L of ledge diagonally to shallow corner. Up then diagonally R to huge flake.
6) 50m R to arete and up (easily) to large ledge.
7) 40 m Up front of buttress (easy) to ledge.
8) 45 m Up the nose. R into groove. Up to top (loose).
Kim Carrigan, Mark Moorhead (var) 31-1-83
</climb>
<climb
extra="" grade="22" length="370m" name="The Great Flake"
number=""
stars="***">The most obvious feature on the E Face. Start at the corner down and R of the flake.
1) 90m Up to foot of corner.
2) 25m (16) Corner to ledge on L.
3) 40m (20) L for 8 m then up to shallow corner. Up to small stance. BB.
4) 40m (20) Up flake (loose flakes). Follow ramp to foot of corner.
5) 40m (19) Up corner to roof (highpoint of 74-5 attempt). Undercling then up off-width chimney to bulge (set of tube chocks required). R on to face and up to sloping ledge.
6) 40m (22) Round roof then off-width to bulge (tube chocks again). R and up to shallow corner on arete. R for 5m.
7) 21m (21) Up corner for 5m. L for 8m into next corner. Up to ledge and PBs.
8) 40m (18) Up short slab to top. Up wall to ledge. R to avoid roof then L to foot shallow corner.
9) 30m (18) Roof and corner to ledge. R for 5m then up.
Kim Carrigan, Evelyn Lees 29-1-82
</climb>
<climb
extra="" grade="20" length="385m" name="The Lorax" number=""
stars="***">An impressive route up a R-leading corner level with upper half of The Great Flake. Protection is sparse on pitches 6 and 7. Start 80m up, from top of the highest grassy ramp below the E Face.
1) 55m Diagonally L up ramps for 15m. Up L wall of prominent corner.
2) 50m Up 5m then L and up 10m to the contact of steep white rock with the black rock. Diagonally R until 25m below Bus-stop Ledge.
3) 35m (20) Traverse 10m L to cave. Up difficult overhanging crack to top of R-leading corner.
4) 50m Traverse 15m L along obvious ledge. Up corner to good ledge on L wall. (Note this traverse is 25m too high on the topo)
5) 37m Step R round arete to large ledge. Up juggy wall and short, steep hand-crack to ledge below big black corner of Conquistador.
6) 38m (19) Up 5m then L 6m. Up short, bottomless corner with difficulty and wall above for 6m. L for 7m then up corner to ledge R of deep cleft.
7) 40 m (18) From left of ledge up wall for 4 m. Step L and up corner. Pass small roof to gain ledge below black, mossy corner. Step up and R round arete. Traverse easily R to top of small chimney.
Peter Steane, Garn Cooper (alt) 2-88
</climb>
<climb
extra="" grade="19" length="55m"
name="The Lorax-Conquistador Connection"
stars="">A worthwhile link pitch-and-a-bit from the top of pitch 3 of The Lorax to pitch 9 of Conquistador. Start: climb the first 3 pitches of The Lorax.
1) 45m 19 Instead of traversing left head up right past some loose flakes and a terrific corner.
2) 10m Continue up the neat little wall on the right to join Conquistador at the big long ledge.
FA Pete Steane, Colin Moorhead 1/97
</climb>
<image
src="SouthEast1.png" width="600"/><climb extra="" grade="20"
length="360m" name="Conquistador" number=""
stars="**">A magnificent and serious route, with sparse protection, directly up the face. A major psychological and physical breakthrough involving a bivouac on the first ascent. Start below the L side of Bus-stop Ledge, the main feature in the centre of the face.
1) 35m Line of weakness.
2) 35m The corner until it is possible to move R to a ledge.
3) 35m Aim slightly R to a block in the corner.
4) 15m Good holds lead to a 12m traverse L to a good ledge.
5) 35m Directly up the steep wall to small PB.
6) 43m Tackle the loose rock in the corner until the sanctuary of Bus-stop Ledge is reached.
7) 27m Traverse L on fingertips for 5m to reach the foot of a corner. Up this with PRs to BB.
8) 35m V corner for 24m then continue to ledge. PB.
9) 35m L along ledge to corner. Up this to big ledge. Keep going until it is possible to step on to the R wall. PB.
10) 40m Up then R and delicately up to a small ledge atop a detached block. Diagonally L for 6m to PB. (This pitch is about 15 and has sparse protection)
11) 24m (crux) Up to the loose blocks, and L then back R with improving pro. (Note: it has been said that this pitch is closer to 22 than 20).
FA Chris Dewhirst, Dave Neilson, lan Ross (var) 5/ 6-1-72. FFA (several rests on pitch 7, extensive aid on pitches 8 and 11) John Fantini, Simon Parsons (leads unknown) (pitches 7, 8) 29-12-83; all free except for two points on pitch 11, Adrian Herrington, Phil Cullen 85; first complete free ascent David Jenkins, Rohan Hyslop (alt), Lucy Collaery (last two points from pitch 11) 2-90
</climb>
<climb
extra="" grade="19,M1" length="" name="Conquistador Variants"
number=""
stars="">1) to 4) As for Conquistador to start of traverse on pitch 4.
5a) Don't traverse 12m L but go straight up loose flakes to top of large flake directly below Bus-stop Ledge. PR.
6a) Descend other side of flake for 3m and up groove for 13m. Traverse 6m L on ledges then up 5m to L end of Bus-stop Ledge.
7) to 9) As for Conquistador.
10a) To avoid the final dripping overhangs, go diagonally R to a large grassy ledge below line of weakness through roofs. (Original final pitch is on L.)
11a) Extremely loose, wet and dangerous. ('Probably the worst pitch I've ever climbed.' Fantini.) Up blank corner above ledge. PR. Tension L to horrible corner. Up roof. Exit R on wet rock and huge loose blocks.
Simon Parsons, John Fantini (var) 29-12-83 </climb>
<climb
extra="" grade="" length="130m" name="Death and Transfiguration"
stars="">Follow Fantini/Parsons variant of Conquistador (or other route/variant) until 6m diagonally R below Bus Stop Ledge.
1) 40m (19) Prominent line just R of belay, then step R round arete at chossy steepening at about 33m. Up, then back L to seat sized belay ledge. Mediocre belay.
2) 30m (crux) Up 3m, then L to stance. L into corner, then up this (free at first, then rests and aid moves). Veer R to belay at chossy horizontal below many roofs, above and out from belayer.
3) 15m (aid equal crux) Reach up R to clip in situ #2 SLCD. Tension R round arete, then aid and easy free moves to ledge on R. Up 3m to horizontal, belay.
4) 45m Scuttle R to join North-east Passage at beginning of its final pitches.
Peter Steane, Garn Gooper (alt) 25-12-94
</climb>
<climb
extra="" grade="16" length="310m" name="Waterloo Road" number=""
stars="">A sustained and perpetually shaded route, usually wet and complete with moss and other slimy vegetation. The route achieves its 'magnificent' status from its spectacular finish up the wall above Terrays Tower. Start at the R-hand corner where the Terrays Tower buttress joins the E Face.
1) 35m Green gully and overhang. PRs. Chimney to cave. Step R to ledge. PB.
2) 33m Surmount the mossy bulge and then move L to avoid the overhang. Continue up, avoiding the next overhang on the L. Climb to a ledge at 27 m (PR) and traverse delicately L to a corner and PR. Up to a small ledge.
3) 27 m Climb, ever more steeply, directly up to a sopping stance below a mossy overhang.
4) 30 m Take a scary step on to the R wall and continue diagonally up R to a ledge. Diagonally L to rejoin the line, following it to the foot of another wet chimney.
5) 27 m Ascend the ever steepening chimney and then climb the L wall to a good ledge.
6) 24 m Climb the repulsive, wet, loose corner for 6 m until it is possible to move R and follow a crack which leads to the notch behind Terrays Tower.
7) 30 m Easily down R for 5 m. Ascend the strenuous chimney. Move up R to a stance and then L up the loose crack to an overhang and PR. After surmounting the overhang, traverse L to regain the chimney, following it to a large ledge.
8) 45 m From R end of ledge, climb L-tending ramp until an easy traverse heads back R. Up to good ledge. Easy climbing leads to another ledge.
9) 25 m (crux) A nerve-racking pitch with poor protection, to a dubious vegetation belay.
10) 35 m Straight up for 8 m with even less protection. Traverse R for 5 m to a weakness in the wall above. Climb the sloping holds with increasing ease to a grassed terrace.
Chris Dewhirst, Chris Baxter, Phillip Stranger (var) John Veasey 12-2-68
</climb>
<climb
extra="" grade="16" length="295m" name="Waterloo Road Direct"
number=""
stars="*">A more pleasant and aesthetic finish to the route. Old pegs found on the upper part of the climb during the first ascent confirmed that North-east Passage must have finished up this section, probably gaining it by way of pitch 7 of Waterloo Road - an extraordinary achievement for 1962 by Lidstone and Sands, the two most accomplished Tasmanian climbers of the time.
1) to 5) As for WR.
6a) 15 m Wide crack in L corner to good ledge.
7a) 40 m Line to grassy ledge.
8a) 40 m Continue up obvious line to veer L on to a ledge.
9a) 45 m Follow the crack as it curves L on to a grassy ledge. Up the wall to finish.
Peter Canning, Roland Pauligk (alt) 30-1-72
</climb>
<climb
extra="" grade="15" length="150m" name="Napoleon"
stars="">The largest and furthest R of the cracks running up the face on the L side of Terrays Tower. Very loose.
1) 35 m As for WR.
2) 12 m Up then R heading round a large block to ledge beside it.
3) 18 m Wall to a cave at base of chimney.
4) 33 m Chimney to overhang.
5) 35 m Avoid the overhang by traversing R. then up wall to another overhang.
6) 18 m R and easily up to top of the tower.
Peter Canning, Ann Richardson 72
</climb>
<climb
extra="" grade="19" length="160m" name="The Ninth of January"
stars="**">A short hard section on a route which is mostly 16. This climb follows the obvious flake on the face until it traverses on to the arete. It starts at a R-tending crack in the gully R of Terrays Tower.
1) 40 m Up crack for 15 m. Traverse 6 m L then up to below flake. Semi-HB.
2) 25 m (crux) Up f lake and over bulge. Leave flake and traverse 7 m L. Up and back R.
3) 40 m Over to arete and up to bushy platform.
4) 55 m L and up front of tower. Up bottomless chimney.
5) 10 m Abseil into gully to join Fleur-de-lis. Peter Steane, Garn Cooper (alt) 27-2-86
</climb>
<climb
extra="" grade="14" length="210m" name="Fleur-de-lis"
stars="">A standard route of royal proportions. Clean but rattling rock up the R side of Terrays Tower. It starts L of a huge chockstone at the base of the prominent gully coming down from the summit. The L of the two chimneys.
1) 33 m (crux) Climb the chimney but escape L before it overhangs. Traverse until a tricky step round the corner leads to a thin crack which rises to a spike.
2) 24 m Follow the crack for 2 m until it is possible to traverse the R wall and regain the chimney. Up to a ledge.
3) 34 m Follow a loose traverse L to pick up the line again. Climb this line (rotten rock) heading R to the arete and a good ledge.
4) 34 m Diagonally into chimney on L. Surmount the large chockstones to a ledge on R. Step back on to the L wall and follow the thin crack to a small vegetated ledge. Continue up a series of small corners to a larger vegetated ledge.
5) 24 m Traverse L for 3 m then up a high-quality section to another vegetated ledge below the top of Terrays Tower.
6) 20 m Easily R across the ledge to the chimney.
7) 30 m Climb the chimney to above the chockstones but avoid the overhangs by climbing the R wall. Rejoin the chimney briefly, climbing out to ledge on the R. 8) 12 m Up to the col behind Terrays Tower. The exit from the route is a downward traverse R to where it is possible to scramble easily up the gully to the summit plateau.
Chris Baxter, John Fahey 1 5-2-68
</climb>
<climb
extra="" grade="13" length="33m"
name="Fleur-de-lis Alternative Start"
stars="*">
Easier and more enjoyable.
1a) Crack in the L wall (to avoid the chimney).
Peter Jacobs, Peter Treby 72
</climb>
<climb
extra="" grade="16" length="300m" name="North-east Passage"
number=""
stars="">The route description given below, taken from the late Tahune log, is vague but of considerable historic interest. Old pitons found in the upper reaches of "Waterloo Road Direct" in later years verify the ascent up the East Face. It was a remarkable effort considering the equipment of the times.
General Description: To the north of huge chockstone in the second gully south of the col between Epaullette Ridge and the Tahune Face-the start is here. The chockstone is a prominent feature. The gully is usually wet. Climb up the right-hand side of the chockstone on an enormous 'curved flake'; then through a 'cave' formed by the chockstone and up on to the top of the flake. Then traverse (from quite high up) across to Terray's Tower. Climb to the summit of the Tower, at one stage using a crack below and to the left of the roofs. From the top of tower climb up face (East Face). Pitches are as follows:
(1) 18m One tricky move.
(2) 24m Easy, but rock rotten. Through the 'cave'.
(3) 12m Bear left from the cave and on to a wide terrace.
(4) Traverse (level) southwards around buttress above chockstone, into subsidiary gully.
(5) Continue traverse (level). Tricky.
(6) 30m Straight up north side of Terray's Tower. Wet.
(7) 24m Continue up to col behind Terray's Tower; involves a layback.
(8) 12m From col, move right, and up to belay stance.
(9) 36m Climb block at right-hand end. Traverse left to face.
(10) 27m Straight up to a good stance.
(11) 18m The crux. Named 'F.B. Pitch'. Description - Neolithic belay. Continue up crack.
(12) 30m Traverse left across face, then up.
(13) To summit plateau.
FA R. Lidstone, P. Sands. Easter 1962.
(The climb was started in the afternoon, so a bivouac was necessary after pitch 9.)</climb>
<text
class="heading3">Tahune Face</text>
<climb extra="" grade="18"
length="?m" name="Unnamed Corner Left of Thierry le Fronde"
stars="">1) As for TF.
2) (16/17) Diagonally up L to foot of corner (sometimes wet) and up it to niche.
3) Exit L and climb crack and flake to grassy terrace.
4) (17/18) Up L to roof-crack (#4 SLCD). Up and over on R. Veer up
L. Scott 92
</climb>
<climb
extra="" grade="16" length="150m" name="Tierry le Fronde"
number=""
stars="**">The left arete of the Tahune Face offers this superb and improbable looking climb with its bristling overhangs.
Start: Scramble up for approximately 200ft in the first gully below and left of the Tahune Face, move left on to the top of a buttress below the face and beneath an obvious crack. Belay here.
1) 30m Climb the wall to the start of a crack, continue up this to a belay on a loose lodge overlooking the gully between Terrav's Tower and the Tahune Face.
2) 24m Move around left, then straight up the arete to a very small stance. Continue straight up the crack for another 12m to a small ledge and a spike belay.
3) 27m A Sustained pitch. Follow the line upward to a belay on the arete adjacent to an obvious traverse left.
4) 27m Traverse left with difficulty for 6m then move directly up an easier series of walls for 15m to a good horizontal ledge. Move 6m right along ledge round nose to belay in comer, directly below line through rooves
5) 29m Climb up through the series of rooves to the Summit
FA P. Stranger. C. Dewhirst, Alt. leads 15.2.68.
</climb>
<climb
extra="" grade="16" length="45m"
name="Tierry le Fronde Direct Start" number=""
stars="*">Alternative start: Climb the rock buttress immediately below the first pitch. A good 150ft pitch which is better than the gully start.
FA Dec 1975</climb>
<climb
extra="" grade="17" length="25m"
name="Tierry le Fronde Direct Variant"
stars="*">4a) 25m Puts some technical climbing and position into the route and avoids the two traverses. Up overhang on arete and wall above.
Mike Law, Chris Baxter 3-3-84
</climb>
<climb
extra="" grade="19" length="65m"
name="Tierry le Frond Alternative Start"
stars="">From the very lowest point on buttress below TF walk 10-15m R up scree slope past overhangs to prominent, brown, mossy ledge. Belay here.
1) 40m (crux) Up L (no pro) to L side of roof at 5m (small SLCD under roof). Good moves past L side of roof to easy ground L of grassy slope. Tend L, heading for base of beautiful, smooth, slightly overhanging 5m wall split by vertical crack. Climb this (crux at top) to easy steps which lead to large ledge.
2) 25m (10) Step R on to arete and follow it tending L to top of buttress. From here walk 20m across top of buttress to start of TF.
Dayle Gilliatt, Phil Dolan 15-2-89
</climb>
<climb
extra="" grade="18" length="97m" name="Cold-steel Dawn"
stars="">Improbable at the grade. Good climb with impressive situations and atmosphere. Climbs roofs and corners on L side of Tahune Face, and joins TF at start of pitch four. From start of TF solo small pinnacle to grassy ledge 10m above grassy terraces.
1) 42m (18) Up TF for 10m, then R line, passing L end of roof, to corner below overhang. Steeply R round arete, and up R to small V-slot below roof.
2) 35m (18) Step R on to wall. Up corner to next roof. Traverse L below roof (rope drag), and step round arete. Up to ledge. Up thin hand-crack to ledge at foot of L-leading ramp.
3) 20m Easily up ramp to TF.
Doug Fife, Peter Steane (alt) 1-93
</climb>
<climb
extra="" grade="20" length="165m" name="Ground Rush"
stars="">The first route entirely on the Tahune face proper. Finishes up the big corner through the rooves that cap the face.
Start: Climb the first two pitches (77m) of Cold-Steel Dawn.
1) 20m Traverse right a few metres and climb loose line to belay at roof just left and below main corner through rooves. You may find a fixed hex.The next two pitches involve 30 metres of climbing with a net gain of two or three verticle metres and about five horizontal metres. On future ascents it might be better to break out half way up pitch 1 to join the crux of pitch 2, thus eliminating the down-climb.
2) 20m The Colinstoisser Traverse. Traverse 4m right and place some runners. Climb down about 6m below choss. Diagonally up right on small face holds to horizontal (crux). Traverse right and go up to stance under roof at beginning of leftwards traverse.
3) 8m Traverse airily left to foot of corner.
4) 40m Up the corner for a few metres, then traverse right to ledge on nose. Up face and corner to top.
FA Pete Steane, Colin Moorhead (alt) 11/1/97
</climb>
<climb
extra="" grade="12" length="120m" name="Deceptive Gully"
number=""
stars="">Start: There is a large 100ft+ high block forming the base of the Tahune Face, directly below the roofs. Locate a shallow gully running up the southern end of this block (see Figure 2). Beware loose rocks.
(1) 48m Up the shallow gully.
(2) Scramble and walk to the right (north) over the top of the block to its northern end.
(3) 15m Ascend the wide chimney (gully) running up the right hand side of the Tahune Face, Belay in small alcove.
(4) 12m? From alcove bridge upwards for a few feet, climb wall on right to a small nose. Swing leftwards around this and belay above. Alternatively keep up strenuous wet crack from alcove.
(5) Continue up past chockatones.
(6) Finish up neat wall on right to emerge on a broad platform abutting tile northern edge of the Tahune Face.
FA J. Fairhall, M. Douglas 1962.
</climb>
<climb
extra="" grade="14" length="120m"
name="Deceptive Gully Direct Start" number=""
stars="">Leads from the foot of the cliff directly to pitch 3 of original route.
FA V. Kennedy, P. Stranger 1968.
</climb>
<climb
extra="" grade="19" length="80m" name="Eco-facist"
stars="">Arete, corner R of DG.
1) 35m (crux) Up from 3m R of arete (near small King Billy pine), then L to arete. Arete until 3m below roofs, then traverse R 8m to small, sloping ledge, then up. Traversing in from DG would make grade about 15.
Peter Steane, Roxanne Wells (alt) 23-1-95
</climb>
<climb
extra="" grade="18" length="130m" name="Shame of the Warrior"
stars="">Takes the black chimney visible from Tahune Hut.
1) 18 m (18) Up obvious crack to two bulges. Semi-HB at second bulge.
2) 18 m (18) L under overhang. Up 12 m. R to large ledge.
3) 16m (18) Up chossy chimney to black hole. No 4 Friend belay.
4) 40 m (14) Out R then diagonally L and up (good holds) to 30 m. R to ledge.
5) 35 m (16) Up crack as it fades. Tend L to grassy ledge (little protection).
Peter Hairsine, Richard Walton 27-12-87 On the same trip it is believed Hairsine and Walton may have climbed something else further R of SW but it doesn't appear to have been recorded.
</climb>
<climb
extra="" grade="17" length="27m" name="Inspector Clouseau"
stars="">On first main buttress 80-100m E of N Col. Start L of vegetated cracks forming a V, directly below clean, R-facing corner. Up to short, clean, R-facing corner on L of overhangs. Up and step L to arete.
Michael Murphy, Mark Poustie 2-1-91
</climb>
<climb
extra="" grade="15" length="45m" name="Pleasant Dreams"
number=""
stars="**">About 150 metres left of the North Col, viewed from the track up from Lake Tahune and slightly above the level of the Col is a lovely clean little face. To reach it, climb up the "new" walking track to the wooden signpost ("Summit-Lake Tahune") where the track steepens considerably. The start is about 25 metres toward the Col.
1) 45m. Up easily for 30 metres to an obvious one metre roof. Pass it on the left (crux). No runners after overhang.
Kim Robinson, Phil Robinson 7-2-98</climb><climb
extra="" grade="15" length="55m" name="Robinsons Ramble"
number=""
stars="">From the wooden signpost (approx 150-200 metres from the North Col) where the walking track steepens up to the Cap itself, walk up the track toward the summit for approx. 150 metres. There is a huge hanging Slab on the left with a short black wall under it.
1) 30m (10) Up the black wall for about 8 metres to the horizontal crack under the slab. (Straight up could be grade 25-ish?) Traverse left 15 metres across a rocky couloir to a ledge on the arete and belay around the corner.
2) 25m (15) Up ridge to a short steep crack(crux).
Km Robinson, Phil Robinson alt. leads 7-2-98</climb><climb
extra="" grade="21" length="12m"
name="25kg Of Pain For 25 Seconds Of Pleasure" number=""
stars="">Overhanging rock a few metres above wooden signpost ("Summit-Lake Tahune"), approx. 25 metres left of ''Pleasant Dreams". The climb eases after the first 7-8 metres.
1) 12m Up to the finger ledge, heel hook and go for it. Only one runner.
Kim Robinson 7-2-98
</climb><text
class="heading2">North-West Wall
</text>
<text
class="text">This is the gentler slope of the beret which faces Lake Gwendolen. Access is over the N Col. The main face consists of a very complex array of buttresses, dissected by pinnacles and guises. The prominent buttress slanting down to the bottom R of the face is Gwendolen Buttress. The large pinnacle in the middle of the face is Coxs Castle. Solomons Sanctuary is the large gully to its R.
</text>
<climb
extra="" grade="17" length="45m" name="Squeaky" number=""
stars="*">Head off from the North Col to '' La Grande pump". Before rounding the nose of a buttress to reach the ''Pump'' and ''Honeysuckle Divine'' there is a crack a few metres left of the nose. The crack faces the North Col and peters out after about 25 metres.
1) 25m Up crack which is much steeper and more sustained than it looks. Some holds are hollow sounding. Good value.
2) 20m Easier ground to the top.
FA Alan Williams, Vincent Day 6-2-98</climb><climb
extra="" grade="15" length="35m" name="Honeysuckle Divine"
stars="">A crack up the blank L wall of a corner 200 m W of the N Col. Up the crack for 15 m before a difficult move L below the overhanging wall then an off-width finish.
J Nelson, Jim Grellis 29-12-77
</climb>
<climb
extra="" grade="19" length="25m" name="The Pawn of Doom"
stars="">The flake 2m right of corner of Honeysuckle Divine. At rooflet at 10m head diagonally up left to join right-trending crack.
FA Colin Moorhead, Pete Steane 10/1/97
</climb>
<climb
extra="" grade="21" length="60m" name="La Grande Pump"
stars="***">A classic of classics. Both pitches are 21. Start R of HD and L of the big roof which forms the L arete of an impressive overhanging corner.
1) 35 m Bold and sparsely protected. Up R to vague curving flake and undercut arete. Up to HB.
2) 25 m Up R of arete to white wall. Up this (exposed, spaced protection) to rest. L round arete and up (easier).
Mike Law, Chris Baxter 4-3-84
</climb>
<climb
extra="" grade="21" length="48m" name="The Enlightenment"
stars="">The grade takes into account the wad-factor. It's the prominent diagonal line on the West-facing buttress above La Grande Pump. Start: Scramble/solo up right of LGP past the prominent left-leading arete undercut by the big overhung corner. The route takes the left-leading line a couple of metres right of the arete.
1) 48m Step down and left from the belay, then up and follow line.
FA Pete Steane, Colin Moorhead 10/1/97
</climb>
<climb
extra="" grade="8" length="200m" name="Gwendolen Buttress"
stars="">A nine-pitch ramble up the buttress. Pass the tower at half-height on the R. To the L is grade 13.
D Cox, R Hosking, Peter Sands Easter 62
</climb>
<climb
extra="" grade="16" length="50m" name="Frog" number=""
stars="">Halfway along the north face of Gwendolen buttress is a faint suggestion of a crack line
1) 25m (16) Straight up the shallow crack system to a platform with a large horizontal crack (#3,#4 friend useful here).
2) 25m (16) Continue directly up bridging up a short overhanging corner then steeply up to flatten out to a platform just left of the vegetation
David Rogers, Andrew Strickland 29-12-87</climb><climb
extra="" grade="16" length="85m" name="Quatre-Vingt Huit (88)"
number=""
stars="">The climb begins at a slightly protruding buttress 20m right of the large black gully crack about a third of the way across the N.E. Face from the North Col. A short buttress leads up to the start. There is a vegetated black crack on ?
1) 40m (16) Follow the front of the buttress for 20m until horizontal crack with vegetation is reached. Step right and finish the pitch laying back off the crack on the right of the front of the buttress. Walk up the steep ramp to belay beneath the overhanging corner.
2) 45m (16) Step right into the corner and bridge up for 10m to a vegetated ledge. ("bloody great pitch"). Move left and finish up the front of the buttress leading to the top.
David Rogers, Andrew Strickland (31-12-87)</climb><climb
extra="" grade="15" length="240m" name="Pillar Face" number=""
stars="">Interesting climbing with a chance of route-finding dilemmas. Start in the gully between the Gwendolen Buttress and the bulging main face.
1) 30 m (crux) Up for 15 m then L across the bulge. Up to a terrace above the bulge.
2) to 4) Straight up the face aiming for the terrace decorated with a row of pillars.
5) Veer L to avoid the summit overhangs.
D Cox, Mike Douglas (alt) 27-12-62
</climb>
<climb
extra="" grade="15" length="?m" name="Pillar Face Variant No 1"
stars="">Starts R of Pillar Face. Joins Variant No 2 for most of its length before it exits R over loose rock to the summit.
Glen Kowalik, Ross Mansfield 78
</climb>
<climb
extra="" grade="15" length="?m" name="Pillar Face Variant No 2"
stars="">Starts level with the end of Gwendolen Buttress, 12 m R of Variant No 1 at the edge of a precipice leading down to Coxs Castle.
Chris (Basil) Rathbone, Phil Robinson 77
</climb>
<climb
extra="" grade="20" length="85m" name="The Nargun"
stars="">Start just L of scoop on front (N) side of Coxs Castle, about 10m uphill from Electra. Possibly cairned. Descend as for Electra.
1) 50m (crux) Steep, intermittent, curving cracks in orange rock (take R line if two fit this description) for about 25m. Easily L on ledges for 3m, then up easily (spaced pro), and up and R to L-leaning corner.
2) 35m Easy corner to large ledge. Walk to R end. Up (spaced pro).
Peter Steane, Doug Fife (alt) 14-3-94
</climb>
<climb
extra="" grade="17" length="100m" name="Electra" number=""
stars="">Excellent rock and bulk pro. Find lowest major roofs on front (N) side of Coxs Castle. Just L of roof is attractive corner. Possibly cairned. To descend, solo down back of Coxs Castle for 15m to highest point of terrace behind. Sidle R to top of the Arches (the 50m wall below Solomons Sanctuary) and descend by 50m abseil.
1) 40m Line to good ledge.
2) 60m (Easy, with alternatives possible.) L up juggy crack for 4m or so. Wander up towards big corner high above. Up corner to steep section with slightly schisty rock. R for 3m, then up easily. Finish up R-facing croner.
FA Doug Fife, Peter Steane (alt) 22-1-92
</climb>
<climb
extra="" grade="" length="180m" name="Solomons Sanctuary"
number=""
stars="">Starts 45 m R of Coxs Castle.
1) to 3) Climb the wall beside the deep gash with increasing difficulty.
4) Peg up the overhanging layback crack. Follow Canyon Creek upstream for more than 60 m.
5) 24 m The waterfall pitch past a chockstone.
6) Traverse L to the summit plateau.
Peter Sands, D Cox (aft), R Hosking Easter 62
</climb>
<climb
extra="" grade="18" length="45m" name="Aesop's Fable" number=""
stars="">Line beginning near lowest point of clean, 40m high N facing wall L of large chimney-gull with chockstone (and below larger walls) about 20m above the "bath" in Solomons Sanctuary. Start below large, hanging flake high on wall. Up, then L edge of flake. Up R to L end of roof, then L and up to grassy ledge. Belay anchors in short crack 5m up next wall.
Peter Steane, Roxanne Wells 24-1-95
</climb>
<text
class="text">
There is a natural bathtub in the creek which flows from Solomons Sanctuary, ideal for hot, sunny days. Beside this is a 45 m abseil which leads to the base of a 50 m white slabby wall. Above this is a terrace beneath some bigger walls and buttresses. The wall is 100 m long and has some thin lines. It is distinguished by L-slanting arches. The following climbs are on this wall.
</text>
<climb
extra="" grade="20" length="50m" name="Deviant Imagination"
stars="*">Follows L-most weakness on wall, R of arch at L end. Near top move R to finish as for FS.
Maureen Gallagher, Russell Chudleigh 3-84
</climb>
<climb
extra="" grade="20" length="50m" name="For Susan"
stars="**">
The prominent crack R of Dl with the bushes low down and the overhang on the R at 3 m.
Chris Baxter, Maureen Gallagher 6-3-84
</climb>
<climb
extra="" grade="21" length="50m" name="(Unnamed 1)"
stars="**">Another gem on superb white quartz. Line passing L end of overhang of main arch.
Russell Chudleigh, Maureen Gallagher 3-84
</climb>
<climb
extra="" grade="22" length="50m" name="(Unnamed 2)"
stars="*">Spaced protection. Up wall a few m R of previous route, climbing overhang at weakness towards its L end. Finish up line directly above.
Mike Law, Russell Chudleigh 6-3-84
</climb>
<climb
extra="" grade="21" length="45m" name="(Unnamed 3)"
stars="*">Between R end of R arch and waterfalls is an overhang low down. Start just L of this. Climb up, veering slightly L.
Russell Chudleigh, Maureen Gallagher 3-84
</climb>
<climb
extra="" grade="17" length="45m" name="Fox 'n' Socks" number=""
stars="">Start at cairn immediately R of previous route. Veer up R on overhanging arete, then face to ledge. Face-crack to next ledge. Corner.
Maureen Gallagher, Russell Chudleigh 3-84
</climb>
<climb
extra="" grade="19" length="160m" name="Culture Shock"
stars="">This and the next climb are on the Shining Wall, the buttress of highly polished rock just R of the Arches. The L end has two prominent L-slanting lines. R of here the foot of the cliff is undercut. Just R is a small patch of scree. These two climbs start here. Solo up L to good ledge. Line heads up L below roof split by off-width. Superb, exposed climbing on lovely, orange rock.
1) 45m From L end of ledge, climb up for 10m. Now up L towards small, grey ramp at L end of huge, orange roof. Thin on lip of slab about 6m below and just left of off-width, with undercut wall below. Up and L towards grey ramp. From start of this, drop below it and climb L on juggy wall to arete. Up to small alcove.
2) 40m Take R alternative, up bulge. Continue on schisty but sound rock to good ledge below two grooves.
3) 30m Scary. Up L groove on poor rock and minimal pro, heading L to short, R-arching flake. Rock and pro improve greatly towards end of flake (there is only about 5m of really loose rock.) Up. Step L just above flake.
4) 45m Up easily to big grassy ledge. Up flake-cracks on L.
Peter Steane, Doug Fife (alt) 16-2-92
</climb>
<climb
extra="" grade="19" length="130m" name="Strange Attractor"
stars="">Well protected crux amid mostly sparsely protected climbing. Big juggy-looking corner above start of CS.
1) 45m Easy climbing on excellent, sparsely protected rock towards corner.
2) 40m Fairly straightforward climbing up corner to about 7m below roof.
3) 45m Croner and roof. Corner. Step R and head up easier-angled rock to small tree.
Doug Fife, Peter Steane (var) 21-1-92
</climb>
<text
class="text">On the N side of the lake is a cliffline, with the most obvious feature being the laid-back expanse of Surf Slab which is approached well down to the L.
</text>
<climb
extra="" grade="12" length="103m" name="Teetering Tower Ridge"
stars="**">An ever steepening route up an aesthetic looking buttress narrowing to a pinnacle which appears to overhang near its top.
1) 27 m Climb the first part of Surf Slab then traverse L to gain the base of the climb proper.
2) 40 m Up the L ridge for 5 m then traverse R to gain the crack. Up to a grassy slope.
3) 9 m Traverse R to the base of a corner.
4) 27 m (crux) Up the corner past a keyhole; good view of SS! Up the crack to the top.
Mick Steane, John Burgess, Phil Robinson 4-3-79
</climb>
<climb
extra="" grade="12" length="69m" name="Surf Slab"
stars="**">A cairn marks the start. Up the slab with respite on two grassy terraces.
Ian Brown, M Hutton (solo) 74
</climb>
<climb
extra="" grade="16" length="?m"
name="Board Shorts, Bored Shorts"
stars="">Little is known about this route, but it appears to be at least as good as SS. Start in the middle of the foot of the slab climbed by SS. Take a direct line slab followed by a steeper section.
Maureen Gallagher, Russell Chudleigh 3-84
</climb>
<climb
extra="" grade="17" length="30m" name="Breakfast of Champions"
stars="*">Just N of the N Col is a feature called Lions Head. Start at the cave at its base. Awkward climbing up the wildly overhanging line directly up the nose.
Ian Brown, Peter Blunt 22-2-79
</climb>
<climb
extra="" grade="11" length="40m" name="Cyrano"
stars="">Slab split by crack 50m N of N Col. Traverse R above this on slabby ledges. Up seam through bulge and overlap. Traverse R to arete. Up corner to Lions Head.
David Moten, Chris Holley 8-2-94
</climb>
<text
class="heading2">The Eastern Arm</text><image
src="EasternArm.png" width=""/><text
class="heading3">Sharlands Peak</text>
<text
class="text">The peak itself supports two prominent buttresses 150 m high which face Lake Tahune. These are Nicoles Needle to the S and Northern Pillar.
</text>
<climb
extra="" grade="10" length="180m" name="Northern Staircase"
number=""
stars="">Airy scrambling with good positions and great views. Start in gully L of the buttress below a subsidiary pinnacle N of Sharlands Peak.
1) 30 m Up L face of gully. Veer into gully and up to col.
2) 30 m Walk R to crack with chockstone.
3) 20 m Up wall over chockstone to small ledge.
4) 30 m Up to summit of minor pinnacle.
5) 15 m On to Northern Pillar again. Up to false summit.
6) 30 m Scramble easily towards true summit.
7) 30 m Face to top.
Ian Brown, Mike Douglas, Alan Kellar (var) 26-12-67</climb>
<climb
extra="" grade="14" length="?m"
name="Northern Staircase Variant"
stars="">1) As for NS.
2a) 18 m Avoid the walk. R wall and crack to large ledge.
3a) 20 m Up R wall and crack to join NS above chockstone.
Glen Kowalik, Ross Mansfield 78
</climb>
<text
class="heading3">White Needle
</text>
<text
class="text">The peak to the S of Barron Pass. Can be climbed by a scrubby route on the E.
</text>
<climb
extra="" grade="6" length="200m" name="Ordinary Route"
stars="">From Barron Pass. Up through scrub and R of wall beneath overhang. Go through the gap.
1) Up L wall to ridge.
2) to 4) Straight up to ridge.
5) Follow ridge (exposed) to the summit.
</climb>
<climb
extra="" grade="?" length="?m" name="West Face Route"
stars="">Reputed to be 'a nice rock climb'.
J Peterson B Eklund 61
</climb>
<text
class="heading3">Philps Peak
</text>
<text
class="text">A major summit S of Barron Pass. Of interest to rockclimbers are its two main ridges - the Gendarme Ridge to the N. which involves a traverse of a number of spectacular pinnacles and the Scimitar Spur to the SW. SS is gained by going over White Needle and descending a gully below Eagles Beak.
</text>
<climb
extra="" grade="10" length="?m" name="The Gendarme Ridge"
number=""
stars="**">A long traverse at about 1,300 m. Ascend White Needle from Barron Pass to begin.
1) 12 m Eagles Beak.
2) Several smaller towers lead to the 30 m Pikehead.
3) Sharks Teeth. Three small towers.
4) 18 m Witchs Thumb.
5) 18 m Witchs Finger. Up its S side.
6) Several small steps, then Little Federation (18 m). Up the W corner. Abseil from summit.
7) Last Tower. Up its SW side. Scramble to summit of Philps Peak. Quick return to Barron Pass is possible on W slopes then over White Needle.
Peter Sands, Mike Douglas 7-1-66
</climb>
<climb
extra="" grade="12" length="500m" name="Scimitar Spur"
stars="*">A long and committing route . Start L of the ridge proper.
1) 30 m Up scrub.
2) Scrubby chimney on R (30 m) then up gully to ridge-top above first major step.
3), 4) 90 m Scramble up ridge to foot of slab.
5) 30 m L across slab and round corner.
6) 30 m Wall (exposed) to ridge.
7) 30 m Ridge.
8) to 10) Easy scrambling to steep wall on ridge.
11) 24 m Wall (easier than it looks).
12) Scramble, then climb next wall (24 m) or avoid it on R .
13), 14) 90 m Avoid the final overhanging wall. Up gully on L.
Mike Douglas, John Fairhall, Alan Kellar (var) 25-12-67
</climb>
<climb
extra="approx" grade="12" length="45m" name="The Kriss" stars="">A prominent pinnacle to the N of SS. Up from the notch.
John Ewbank, Alan Kellar 3-68
</climb>
</guide>
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