<?xml version="1.0" encoding="UTF-8"?> <guide guidestars="**" pagesize="400"><text class="heading1" new="false">Handsome Crag</text><text class="text" new="false">Handsome Crag has quite a decent amount of reasonable sandstone. There is a quite a lot of potential here for bouldering, but it is only in its earliest stage of development. The crag faces north and gets a lot of sun, so is a good winter venue, but too hot in summer. It's high enough that it mostly escapes the New Norfolk fog.</text><text class="text" new="false">It is possible to drive to within fifty metres of the cliff. There used to be a locked gate at the bottom of the road, but this is no longer present. The crag is on Crown Land, administered by Forestry Tasmania. To get there head up to New Norfolk and cross to the northern side of the Derwent River. Head up river and take the first right, followed by a left. Follow this through the outer suburbs of New Norfolk to the T-junction: to get to the cliff turn right along Back River Road. The turn-off to the crag is about 2km along Back River Road from the T-junction. Turn right at the driveway to house numbers 658, 660 & 662 (this is the middle of 3 dirt tracks) and drive for another 1km before reaching where the locked gate used to be on the left. This is Handsome Caves Road. After a few kilometres of zigging and zagging up a steep, rough road, when it flattens out a bit take a track which turns off sharply to the left. The crag will soon be visible on the right. The road is "good fun" in a 2wd - the extra clearance and traction of a softroader makes the drive a bit more comfortable. But please remember that other people use this road - use your common sense and don't hoon it, and make sure you park well off the road. No one wants the gate back on the road! The drive takes about 45 min or 40km from Hobart.</text><image new="false" noPrint="false" src="handsomeMap.png" width=""/><image new="false" noPrint="false" src="handsome area.jpg" width=""/><gps new="true"><point code="HAN100" description="The Stronghold - Car Park" easting="507674" height="462" northing="5268131" zone="55G"/><point code="HAN110" description="The Stronghold - Dont Fight It" easting="507745" height="523" northing="5268080" zone="55G"/><point code="HAN200" description="The Blockhouse" easting="507464" height="515" northing="5267905" zone="55G"/></gps><text class="heading2" new="false">Main Cliff Boulders</text><text class="text" new="false">There are lots of boulders under the main amphitheatre of cliffs. The potential isn't quite as good as you'ld expect, but there are a couple of OK boulders down the left hand end. Mostly these boulders are undeveloped.</text><text class="heading2" new="false">The Blockhouse</text><text class="text" new="false">The Blockhouse is a fairly small area above the left hand end of Handsome Crag (straight above Hard and Fast), with potential for maybe 15 problems. Park 50m past the crag where there is a pull out on the right. Walk back towards the crag and up the ridge through a gap in the cliffs, to find an area of about 4 free standing boulders back by some cliffy bits.</text><text class="heading3" new="false">The Choss Block</text><text class="text" new="false">This is the chossy block closest to the road. There are a couple of easy slabby climbs on one side, and some chossy stuff on the bottom.</text><problem extra="(Stand)" grade="VE" name="" new="false" number="" stars="">Left side of featured slab</problem><problem extra="(Stand)" grade="VE" name="" new="false" number="" stars="">Right side of featured slab</problem><problem extra="(SDS)" grade="V1" name="" new="false" number="" stars="">Chossy jugs at the bottom of the boulder</problem><text class="heading3" new="false">Merci Boulder</text><text class="text" new="false">The is the large boulder with the obvious steep face facing the road, and a high vertical face.</text><image new="false" noPrint="false" src="merci.jpg" width=""/><problem extra="(SDS)" grade="V5" name="The Original Fire" new="false" number="1." stars="***">Very nice flakes up left side of steep face. Head right to finish.</problem><problem extra="(SDS)" grade="V?" name="" new="false" number="2." stars="">Project - up shallow crack without using arete.</problem><problem extra="(SDS)" grade="V3" name="Merci Fuckyou" new="false" number="3." stars="*">The right arete of the steep face.</problem><problem extra="(Stand)" grade="V2" name="Hot Engrish Tea?" new="false" number="4." stars="*">Thin crack 1.5m left of Show Day Special.</problem><problem extra="(Highball, Stand)" grade="V3" name="Show Day Special" new="false" number="5." stars="*">The right arete of the vertical face</problem><text class="heading3" new="false">Stubbie Boulder</text><text class="text" new="false">This is the small boulder to the right of Merci Boulder.</text><problem extra="(Stand)" grade="V0" name="Slab of Stubbies" new="false" number="6." stars="">Slab on far left of boulder.</problem><problem extra="(SDS)" grade="V?" name="" new="false" number="7." stars="">Project - sit start and up onto slab.</problem><problem extra="(Stand)" grade="V2" name="" new="false" number="8." stars="">Start off opposing sidepulls, up right to jugs. Needs the hard sit start.</problem><text class="heading2" new="false">The Stronghold</text><text class="text" new="false">This area has about a dozen beautiful free standing boulders with some fantastic lines. Good rock too. Continue on Handsome Caves Rd past the Main Cliff for another couple of hundred metres until you get to an area with a couple of free standing boulders in a flat area on the right, with a small cliff line behind. You should be able to spy some more boulders up above the left side of the cliff line - this is where the good stuff is. Park in a small sandy pull out, and head up the hill for 5 minutes. Once you are above the small cliff line you should be able to see the boulders. The boulders are described pretty much top-to-bottom and left-to-right as they appear in the plan topo below.</text><text class="text" new="false">There are plenty of new problems to do here. Bring a brush and spend some effort to contribute to this great area.</text><image new="false" noPrint="false" src="handsomeMap2.png" width=""/> <text class="heading3" new="false">Smear Boulder</text><text class="text" new="false">A smaller boulder with a nice clean face down the hill a bit.</text><image new="false" noPrint="false" src="smearBoulder.jpg" width="300"></image><problem extra="(Stand)" grade="V4/5" name="Smear Test" new="false" number="1." stars="**">Up the clean face starting with the opposing side pulls, give yourself a V7 tick if you do the sit start.</problem><problem extra="(Hang)" grade="V5/6" name="" new="false" number="2." stars="*">Hang start on the sloper. A couple of tricky move will take you onto the holds on 1, up this to finish.</problem><problem extra="(SDS)" grade="V?" name="" new="false" number="" stars="">On the other side of the boulder from Smear Test. Sit start on the left at the jug, follow the slopers right. Don't know if this has been done.</problem><text class="heading3" new="false">Fat Boulder</text><text class="text" new="false">This small boulder is just across from the Smear face.</text><problem extra="(SDS)" grade="VE" name="Big Fat Crap" new="false" number="" stars="">Arete</problem><problem extra="(Stand)" grade="VE" name="" new="false" number="" stars="">Dirty face to right of arete</problem><text class="heading3" new="false">Inner City Boulder</text><text class="text" new="false">These are two smallish boulders that lie against each other.</text><image new="false" noPrint="false" src="city1.jpg" width="400"></image><problem extra="(SDS)" grade="V3" name="" new="false" number="1." stars="">On the left of the cave, start from slopers on lip.</problem><problem extra="(SDS)" grade="VE" name="" new="false" number="2." stars="">On right of cave start at hueco, finish over tree.</problem><image new="false" noPrint="false" src="city2.jpg" width="400"></image><problem extra="(SDS)" grade="V9/10" name="Inner City Pressure" new="false" number="3." stars="*">On the back of the boulder, left side of face</problem><problem extra="(Hang)" grade="V5/6" name="City Migi" new="false" number="4." stars="*">In middle of face, hang start off lower holds</problem><text class="heading3" new="false">Dirt Boulder</text><text class="text" new="false">Nice little face just across from Barad-dur boulder.</text><image new="false" noPrint="false" src="dirt.jpg" width="400"></image><problem extra="(SDS)" grade="V2" name="Fight Through the Dirt" new="false" number="1." stars="">Sit start on left of boulder, follow lip up right to jug then up.</problem><problem extra="(Stand)" grade="VE" name="" new="false" number="2." stars="">Straight up to jug.</problem><problem extra="(SDS)" grade="V?" name="" new="false" number="3." stars="">Project - centre of face from sitstart.</problem><problem extra="(SDS)" grade="V0" name="Dirt Music" new="false" number="4." stars="">Sit start on right side of boulder, follow lip left then up.</problem> <text class="heading3" new="false">Barad-dur</text> <text class="text" new="false">The eastern of the two towers.</text><problem extra="(Highball, Stand)" grade="V4" name="Crack of Doom" new="false" number="" stars="***">The awesome highball crack</problem> <text class="heading3" new="false">Orthanc</text><text class="text" new="false">The western of the Two Towers is pretty high with some awesome lines to be done.</text><image new="false" noPrint="false" src="orthanc back.jpg" width="300"></image><problem extra="(Highball, SDS)" grade="V0" name="" new="false" number="1." stars="*">Up the arete using pocket, then up jugs to top. Descent is to drop off onto the face to the left and step across to the block.</problem><problem extra="(Highball, Stand)" grade="VE" name="" new="false" number="2." stars="">Up slab</problem><problem extra="(Highball, Stand)" grade="V6" name="" new="false" number="3." stars="**">Up to the right of the arete. Tricky moves at the start lead to exciting moves to get onto the slab</problem><image new="false" noPrint="false" src="orthanc.jpg" width="500"></image><problem extra="(Highball, Stand)" grade="V0?" name="Orthanc Arete" new="false" number="1." stars="">The right hand arete, with pockets.</problem> <text class="heading3" new="false">Zinc Fingers Boulder</text><text class="text" new="false">Zinc Fingers Boulder is just NE from Don't Fight It Boulder.</text><image new="false" noPrint="false" src="zincfingers.jpg" width="400"></image><problem extra="(Stand)" grade="V0" name="" new="false" number="" stars="">Dirty slab to L of arete on back of boulder</problem><problem extra="(SDS)" grade="V2" name="" new="false" number="" stars="*">Sit start and climb steeper R side of nice featured arete.</problem><problem extra="(SDS)" grade="V11" name="Uprising" new="false" number="1." stars="**">Sit start on left arete, head right to sloper on the arete then up Zinc Fingers to finish.</problem><problem extra="(SDS)" grade="V4" name="Zinc Fingers" new="false" number="2." stars="*">Groove up middle of the boulder. Stand start is about V2.</problem><problem extra="(Stand)" grade="VE" name="" new="false" number="3." stars="">Easy arete on right side of boulder.</problem> <text class="heading3" new="false">Don't Fight It Boulder</text><text class="text" new="false">This is one of the first boulders you come to.</text><image new="false" noPrint="false" src="dontfightit.jpg" width="500"></image><problem extra="(SDS)" grade="V4" name="Setting Sun" new="false" number="1." stars="**">Sit start of ramp, up on pockets then side pulls</problem><problem extra="(SDS)" grade="V4" name="Bug, Powder, Dust" new="false" number="2." stars="*">Sit start and straight up into crack and over the top.</problem><problem extra="(SDS)" grade="V3/4" name="" new="false" number="3." stars="">Start a bit left of Don't Fight It, and traverse right to The Panics. Could start further left but pretty hard.</problem><problem extra="(SDS)" grade="V3" name="Don't Fight It" new="false" number="4." stars="**">Blunt arete using pockets to slopers.</problem><problem extra="(SDS)" grade="V3" name="The Panics" new="false" number="5." stars="*">Overhang on right side of face.</problem><text class="heading3" new="false">Grey Slab</text><text class="text" new="false">There is a small slab just up behind Don't Fight It Boulder.</text><problem extra="(Stand)" grade="VE" name="" new="false" number="1." stars="">Left side of slab.</problem><problem extra="(Stand)" grade="V0" name="" new="false" number="2." stars="*">Right side of slab.</problem> <text class="heading3" new="false">Straight Lines Area</text><text class="text" new="false">These first problems are on the down hill side of the Vitriol Boulder, facing the Don't Fight It Boulder.</text><image new="false" noPrint="false" src="straightlines.jpg" width=""/><problem extra="(SDS)" grade="V3" name="" new="false" number="" stars="">Short arete on left side of the Better With Age face, from a sit start.</problem><problem extra="(Stand)" grade="V1" name="Better With Age" new="false" number="1." stars="*">Nice face on the opposite side of the boulder from Straight Lines.</problem><problem extra="(Stand)" grade="V1" name="" new="false" number="" stars="">Variant to Better With Age on flakes just to the right.</problem><problem extra="(Stand)" grade="VE" name="" new="false" number="2." stars="">Left arete and scoop</problem><problem extra="(SDS)" grade="V4" name="Busted" new="false" number="3." stars="*">Up arete then dyno up left to the scoop.</problem><problem extra="(SDS)" grade="V1" name="" new="false" number="4." stars="">Up from flat hold, right of arete.</problem><problem extra="(Stand)" grade="V2" name="Straight Lines" new="false" number="5." stars="***">Pull up from very nice rail at head height, at bottom end of the slot between the two boulders. There is a pretty hard sit start using the arete.</problem><problem extra="(Stand)" grade="V0" name="" new="false" number="6." stars="">Slab opposite Straight Lines.</problem><problem extra="(SDS)" grade="V9" name="Mouthful of Love" new="false" number="" stars="">Sit start using thin crack and edge.</problem><problem extra="(Stand)" grade="V0" name="" new="false" number="7." stars="">Pull up on jug left of arete.</problem><problem extra="(Stand)" grade="V1" name="" new="false" number="8." stars="">Right of arete</problem><problem extra="(Stand)" grade="V1" name="Fuckin Jeezus" new="false" number="9." stars="">Right hand side of slab</problem><problem extra="(SDS)" grade="V?" name="" new="false" number="" stars="">Project - awesome steep arete with no holds</problem><text class="heading3" new="false">Vitriol Area</text><text class="text" new="false">The next problems are at the top end of the slot.</text><image new="false" noPrint="false" src="vitriol.jpg" width=""/><problem extra="(SDS)" grade="V6" name="" new="false" number="1." stars="*">Start at narrow pocket, move left to arete and up</problem><problem extra="(Stand)" grade="V2" name="" new="false" number="2." stars="">Arete opposite Vitriol, staying on the face.</problem><problem extra="(Stand)" grade="V2" name="Vitriol" new="false" number="3." stars="***">The beautiful curved arete. Sit start is about V4 but awkward.</problem><text class="heading3" new="false">Two Face Boulder</text><problem extra="(SDS)" grade="V3" name="" new="false" number="4." stars="*">On block just around to the R of vitriol traverse lip rightwards.</problem><problem extra="(SDS)" grade="V1" name="Sheriff Jeff Acid" new="false" number="4a." stars="">On the right hand side of the block, sit-start of the pinch on the arete and up to flat jug just below top of boulder and top-out as for problem 4.</problem><text class="heading3" new="false">Dave's Arete Area</text><problem extra="(SDS)" grade="V1" name="Pedro" new="false" number="4b." stars="*">On boulder between Dave's Arete and Two Face boulder. Sit-start off large rightward sloping ledge via slot to left arete then up to top.</problem><problem extra="(Highball, Stand)" grade="V6" name="Dave's Arete" new="false" number="5." stars="">The awesome looking arete. Gets a bit desperate at the top. Can be done with a sit start if the arete isn't inspiring enough for you.</problem> <text class="heading3" new="false">Gatekeeper Boulder</text><image new="false" noPrint="false" src="gatekeeper.jpg" width="400"></image><text class="text" new="false">Featured boulder to the right of Inchman - could do with some more cleaning and traffic.</text><problem extra="(Stand)" grade="VE" name="" new="false" number="1." stars=""/><problem extra="(Stand)" grade="VE" name="" new="false" number="2." stars=""/><problem extra="(Stand)" grade="VE" name="" new="false" number="3." stars=""/><problem extra="(Stand)" grade="VE" name="" new="false" number="4." stars=""/><problem extra="(SDS)" grade="V0" name="" new="false" number="5." stars=""/> <text class="heading3" new="false">The Balcony</text><text class="text" new="false">This is the short exciting looking 45 degree wall on top of the cliff which can be seen on the walk up. Careful not to knock your spotter off, if you can get one.</text><image new="false" noPrint="false" src="Balcony2.jpg" width="500"/><problem extra="(SDS)" grade="V6/7" name="" new="false" number="1." stars=""/><problem extra="(SDS)" grade="V6" name="" new="false" number="2." stars="*">Start on pockets then up and left to the big sloper - still awaiting a topout.</problem> <text class="heading3" new="false">Inchman Boulder</text><image new="false" noPrint="false" src="inchman.jpg" width="300"></image><problem extra="(Stand)" grade="V0" name="" new="false" number="1." stars="">Slab</problem><problem extra="(Stand)" grade="V0" name="" new="false" number="2." stars="">Slab</problem><problem extra="(Stand)" grade="V0" name="" new="false" number="3." stars="">Slab</problem><problem extra="(Stand)" grade="V0" name="" new="false" number="4." stars="">Slab</problem><text class="text" new="false">These slabby walls provide some entertaining for those sampling their first bouldering experience.</text><image new="false" noPrint="false" src="Artists Wall 2.jpg" width="500"/><problem extra="(Stand)" grade="V0-" name="Fark knows...not feeling creative today!" new="false" number="1." stars=""/><problem extra="(Stand)" grade="V0-" name="Moaning Lisa" new="false" number="2." stars="">Also the descent route.</problem><problem extra="(Stand)" grade="V0" name="A-muse-ing" new="false" number="3." stars="*">A pleasant climb up the slab.</problem><problem extra="(Stand)" grade="V0" name="Van Gone" new="false" number="4." stars=""/><problem extra="(Stand)" grade="V0" name="Cliff Palette" new="false" number="5." stars="*">Follow the edges up the slab.</problem><text class="text" new="false">The back side of Inchman has an impressive steep face which after many hours of brushing and a bit of landscaping is producing some classic problems.</text><image new="false" noPrint="false" src="Chain Wall2.jpg" width=""/><problem extra="(SDS)" grade="V?" name="Project" new="false" number="" stars="">Start left of 1, up to pocket and mantle - same deal as 1!</problem><problem extra="(SDS)" grade="V?" name="" new="false" number="1." stars="">Project - left hand end of face, 4 hours of hard labour and 5 hours of wire brushing will be required as payment from anyone deciding to take this project for themselves :-)</problem><problem extra="(Hang)" grade="V6" name="Ball and Chain" new="false" number="2." stars="*">Start right hand on the pinch and left on the gaston, up to slope then big pull to the top.</problem><problem extra="(Hang)" grade="V9" name="The Never Ending Story" new="false" number="3." stars="**">Start as for Ball and Chain and make your way right, topping out on Sledgehammer, pumpy climbing.</problem><problem extra="(Stand)" grade="V5/6" name="Hang Me Out To Dry" new="false" number="4." stars="***">Nice face with slopers. Start on the edges below the big sloper. Take a grade or so off if you stack the pads up and start on the sloper.</problem><problem extra="(Stand)" grade="V8" name="Chain Gang Bang" new="false" number="5." stars="***">Start as for Hang Me Up, traverse right and finish up Chain Gang. Originally grade V7 but after some of Tassies' hottest talent failed to send it V8 seems like a more appropriate grade ;-)</problem><problem extra="(Stand)" grade="V6" name="Chain Gang" new="false" number="6." stars="**">Start matched on incut diagonal hold a couple of metres left of Sledgehammer, up to top jugs.</problem><problem extra="(SDS)" grade="V6" name="Block Buster" new="false" number="7." stars="*">Start left hand in crack. bad feet and bust up to big sledge hammer jug. </problem><problem extra="(SDS)" grade="V5/6" name="Sledgehammer" new="false" number="8." stars="**">On R side of face - big pull from horizontal to horizontal then up over top.</problem><problem extra="(SDS)" grade="V3" name="" new="false" number="" stars="">Just to the R of Sledgehammer, up to hollow holds.</problem><problem extra="(SDS)" grade="V1" name="" new="false" number="" stars="">On far right side of face, just left of block. Climb up R on big holds.</problem><text class="heading3" new="false">White Noise Boulder</text><text class="text" new="false">Between Inchman and Not My Problem boulders is a bloc with a large detached flake on the W side, and a tree at the right hand end.</text><image new="false" noPrint="false" src="White noise.jpg" width="500"/><problem extra="(Stand)" grade="V0" name="" new="false" number="1." stars="">The left hand arete</problem><problem extra="(Stand)" grade="V3" name="White Noise" new="false" number="2." stars="*">Stand start from the obvious edge in the middle of the face, head right to the top and a fun mantle. A harder sit start may be possible.</problem><problem extra="(Stand)" grade="V?" name="" new="false" number="3." stars="">From the good pinch just left of the tree up and over the dead branch.</problem><text class="heading3" new="false">Not My Problem Boulder</text><text class="text" new="false">This is the most southern decent boulder of the area.</text><image new="false" noPrint="false" src="notMyProblem.jpg" width="300"></image><problem extra="(Stand)" grade="V2" name="I'll Cry If I Want to" new="false" number="1." stars="*">Up on crimps and seams to groove and glory jugs!</problem><problem extra="(Stand)" grade="V3/4" name="Not My Problem" new="false" number="2." stars="**">Steep arete to balancy top out.</problem><problem extra="(SDS)" grade="V4" name="Ticked Off" new="false" number="3." stars="">From scoopy holds with left hand, up arete via pinches to top.</problem> </guide> |