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<guide guidestars="***" pagesize="150">
<text
class="heading1">Oatlands</text><text
class="intro">Oatlands has been in development since 2001 and is now the best bouldering area in Tasmania. The climbing is on both roofs and faces and is of very high quality. The sandstone is generally quite solid, which is fairly unique for Tasmania. As well as Tasmania's hardest bouldering, Oatlands also has an increasing number of quality moderates. </text><text
class="text" new="false"
number="null.">Oatlands can be found about 1 hours drive north of Hobart up the Midlands Highway, or a bit longer than 1 hour south of Launceston.
Park at the picnic area near Milk Point and walk across the Top Dam to get to the areas.
The Devils Kitchen is the obvious, enormous roof and is clearly visible from the parking area.
To get to the southern areas such as the Yellow Cave and Funky Town it is quicker to park near the bottom dam and walk across it.</text><image
src="Oatlandsmap3.jpg" width="800"/><text
class="heading2">Dead Sheep</text><text
class="access">This is the small cave and wall to the left of the Rumble Cave. It is the furthest left of the caves in the line of cliffs that face the top dam. It has the skeleton of a dead sheep in the right side of the cave. All these problems are sandy and need more cleaning.</text><image
src="Oatlandsdeadsheepa.jpg"/><problem extra="(SDS)" grade="V5"
name="Fencepost Left" number="1."
stars="*">Start at underclings 1m left of the green fence post. Up to crimps and slopey topout.</problem><problem
extra="(SDS)" grade="V3" name="Fencepost Right" new="false"
number="2."
stars="">Start at big jug 1m right of fence post and dyno up to lip and desperate slopey mantle.</problem><problem
extra="(SDS)" grade="V3" name="The Tomb of the Dead Sheep"
number="4."
stars=" ">Start in the right hand side of the cave just to the left of the dead sheep. Climb out through loose and dirty jugs. Needs more cleaning.</problem><problem
extra="(SDS)" grade="V2" name="Lamb Chops" new="false"
number="5."
stars="">Start at a jug in the middle of the little arch. Up and left to slopey top out.</problem><problem
extra="(SDS)" grade="V2" name="Mutton Dressed as Lamb"
number="6."
stars=" ">Start as for previous, go right to finish as for Mutton.</problem><problem
extra="(SDS)" grade="V3/4" name=" " number="6.1."
stars="*">Start as for previous problem, crank straight up to the lip (rather than move right) and do the slopey top out. </problem><problem
extra="(Stand)" grade="V1" name="Mutton" number="7."
stars=" ">Up face to slopey topout.</problem><problem
extra="(Stand)" grade="V1" name=" " number="8."
stars=" ">Up face to slopey topout</problem><text
class="heading2">Rumble Cave</text><text
class="access">This is the first sizable cave that you come to when walking from the top dam. It faces north and is warmer than the other areas.</text><image
src="Oatlandsritj4.jpg"/><problem extra="(SDS)" grade="V7"
name="Fire in the Hole" number="1."
stars="**">Sitstart on pedestal on left edge of cave and head out right to top out</problem><problem
extra="(Stand)" grade="V10?" name="Jake's Problem" new="false"
number="2."
stars="">Start on the black rock a few metres in from the lip on the left side of the cave, at a bit of a ridge 2m for the very back. Climb out and into Fire in the Hole.
Project -start from right at the back</problem><problem
extra="(SDS)" grade="V?" name=" " number="3."
stars=" ">Project - Start as for no. 1, but continue traversing the lip of the cave rightwards to finish up Flounder.</problem><problem
extra="(SDS)" grade="V6" name="Thriller in Manilla" new="false"
number="4."
stars="**">Left hand start to Rumble in the Jungle. Start off opposing edges in roof.</problem><problem
extra="(Stand)" grade="V5" name="Rumble in the Jungle"
number="5."
stars="***">Start off flat hold in back of cave, out through jugs to lip and top out</problem><problem
extra="(Stand)" grade="V5" name=" " number="6."
stars=" ">Finish Rumble in the Jungle to the right</problem><image
src="Oatlandsritj5.jpg"/><problem extra="(SDS)" grade="V4"
name="Bongo in the Congo" new="false" number="1."
stars="">Crawl into the back of the cave to the right of the start of Rumble in the Jungle. Climb out through sandy holds in the roof to finish on the starting hold of Rumble in the Jungle. The Rumble linkup goes at V7.</problem><image
src="Oatlandsritj6.jpg"/><problem extra="(SDS)" grade="V5"
name="Flat Head" number="1."
stars="*">Start as for the Flounder sitstart, and traverse the lip leftwards to finish as for Rumble in the Jungle</problem><problem
extra="(SDS)" grade="V6" name="Flounder" new="false" number="2."
stars="**">Sitstart under lip and climb up on slopers 1m left of corner. The stand start off the big sloper is V3.</problem><problem
extra="(SDS)" grade="V3" name="Yoga" number="3."
stars=" ">Sitstart up short hanging corner</problem><problem
extra="(SDS)" grade="V5" name=" " number="4."
stars=" ">Start as for yoga, move right on slopers to finish as for Congaline.</problem><problem
extra="(SDS)" grade="V3" name="Congaline of Suckholes"
number="5."
stars=" ">Sitstart about 2m right of corner on crumbly edges</problem><problem
extra="(SDS)" grade="V2" name="The Constant Gardener"
new="false" number=""
stars="">A few metres right of the previous problem there is a bit of a cave, with a flat hold at the lip. Straight out through the cave to the flat hold, then up the slab.</problem><problem
extra="(SDS)" grade="V4" name="" new="false" number=""
stars="">Climb the line of holds on the right hand side of the cave, 1m right of the previous problem.</problem><problem
extra="(SDS)" grade="V?" name="" new="false" number=""
stars="">Project - climb the groove on slopers 1m right of the previous problem</problem><problem
extra="(SDS)" grade="V0" name="" new="false" number=""
stars="">4m right of previous</problem><image new="true"/><text
class="heading2">Blackberry Jam Wall</text><text
class="access">This short vertical wall is about 50m to the left of the Devil's Kitchenette and has some OK easy problems.</text><image
src="Oatlandsblackberry.jpg"/><problem extra="(Stand)"
grade="V2" name="Blackberry Jam" number="1."
stars=" ">Traverse the featured wall from left to right, without using the top</problem><problem
extra="(SDS)" grade="V0" name=" " number="2."
stars=" ">There are 3 or 4 easy upward problems you can do on this wall</problem><text
class="heading2">The Devil's Kitchenette</text><text
class="access">This smaller cave is about 100m to the left of the Devil's Kitchen</text><image
src="Oatlandskitchenette1.jpg"/><problem extra="(SDS)"
grade="V2" name=" " number=" "
stars=" ">Start about 1.5m left of the fallen block on the far left of the Devil's Kitchenette at a finger slot in under the roof. Move left to lip and up over bulge</problem><problem
extra="(SDS)" grade="V3" name=" " number=" "
stars=" ">Start as for previous problem but go right to lip, then up and right on jugs</problem><problem
extra="(SDS)" grade="V3" name=" " number="1."
stars=" ">Start about 2m left of The Cheeky Little Devil. Straight up then top out as for Cheeky Little Devil so as to avoid the hollow block</problem><problem
extra="(SDS)" grade="V5" name="The Cheeky Little Devil"
number="2."
stars="**">Sitstart from low flake, up and right, then back left and topout</problem><problem
extra="(SDS)" grade="V6" name="Kitchen Bitch" new="false"
number="3."
stars="**">From low sitstart climb straight out the largest bit of the roof to a hard mantle top out.</problem><problem
extra="(SDS)" grade="V4" name="1844" number="4."
stars="*">Traverse right to left, keep going around left as far as the rock is dry</problem><problem
extra="(SDS)" grade="V5" name=" " number="5."
stars=" ">Do the 1844 traverse then finish up The Cheeky Little Devil</problem><image
src="Oatlandskitchenette2.jpg"/><problem extra="(SDS)"
grade="V6" name="Gremlin" number="1."
stars=" ">
</problem><problem extra="(SDS)" grade="V1"
name=" " number="2."
stars=" ">Optional top out to the left</problem><problem
extra="(SDS)" grade="V0" name=" " number="3."
stars=" ">
</problem><text
class="heading2">The Devil's Kitchen </text><text
class="access">This is the huge cave visible from the parking area.</text><text
class="heading3">Left Side</text><text
class="text">The left edge of the cave has some easier warm up problems.</text><image
src="Oatlandsdk3.jpg"/><problem extra="(SDS)" grade="V2"
name="Sorted" number="1."
stars="*">Traverse juggy rail left to right then top out up right hand groove</problem><problem
extra="(SDS)" grade="V0" name=" " number="2."
stars=" ">Start as for Sorted but straight up. There are a couple of variations on this</problem><problem
extra="(SDS)" grade="V0" name=" " number="3."
stars=" ">Go upward from part way along the rail</problem><problem
extra="(SDS)" grade="V2" name=" " number="4."
stars=" ">Start about 4m right of Sorted at good hold in roof. Campus up to rail and finish straight up left hand groove.</problem><problem
extra="(Stand)" grade="V2" name=" " number="5."
stars=" ">Start on the huge flat hold of the start of Antichrist. Go left to more jugs and finish as for Sorted</problem><text
class="heading3">The Antichrist Area</text><image new="false"
number="null." src="dk4.jpg" width="">null</image><problem
extra="(Stand)" grade="V7" name=" " number="1."
stars=" ">Start as for The Antichrist, but go straight out through the roof</problem><problem
extra="(Stand)" grade="V10" name="The Antichrist" number="2."
stars="*">Start on the large flat jug and traverse right for about 7m and then out to the lip. FA Sam Edwards</problem><problem
extra="(SDS)" grade="V?" name="" new="false" number="2a."
stars="">Project - traverse right to left using the footholds of the Antichrist.</problem><problem
extra="(Stand)" grade="V7/9" name="Anti-Problems" new="false"
number="2b."
stars="*">The Antichrist can be split into two easier problems, split by the large jug in the centre of the traverse. The first half climbs at about V7, and can also be done at a slightly harder grade in reverse. The second half can be done at about V8/9</problem><problem
extra="(SDS)" grade="V11/12" name="The Gambler" new="false"
number="3."
stars="*">Start as for Trident, and instead of throwing to the large slope slap to the crimp 1 foot left instead. Finish out left on lip, FA Kim Robinson</problem><problem
extra="(SDS)" grade="V10" name="Trident" number="4."
stars="***">Start in the slot at the back of the cave, climb out to the large slope and jump out right to the lip, FA Kim Robinson</problem><problem
extra="(Stand)" grade="V9" name="Scab Robinson" number="5."
stars="*">Big jump out to lip from two crimps, FA Sam Edwards</problem><problem
extra="(Stand)" grade="V3" name="" new="false" number="5a."
stars="">Top out from the left hand end of the big ledge. Provides a finish for Trident or Scab Robinson.</problem><problem
extra="(Stand)" grade="V8/9" name="The Devil's Tongue"
number="6."
stars=" ">Hikers problem. Start from crimps and jump out to lip, feet stand on the sandy stuff. FA Kim Robinson </problem><problem
extra="(SDS)" grade="V7" name="The Punisher" new="false"
number="7."
stars="">Start on the back wall below the finish of Antichrist. Climb into Antichrist, do the dyno to the ledge, then top out up the water streak on the right side of the ledge.</problem><text
class="heading3">Vanishing Point Area</text><text
class="text">This is the next section of the cave to the right.</text><image
new="false" number="null." src="dk5.jpg"
width="">null</image><problem extra="(SDS)" grade="V?"
name=" " number="1."
stars=" ">Mega hard project</problem><problem
extra="(SDS)" grade="V6" name=" " number="2."
stars=" ">FA Campbell Godfrey</problem><problem
extra="(Stand)" grade="V3" name="" new="false" number="3."
stars="">Jump up to lip and top out up water groove.</problem><problem
extra="(SDS)" grade="V?" name=" " new="false" number="4."
stars="">Kim's project</problem><problem extra="(Stand)"
grade="V13" name="The Vanishing Point" new="false" number="5."
stars="***">Start on the flake at the back of the roof, 1m behind the large jug. Out to lip. Originally given V14 but downgraded after a quick repeat. FA Tyson Atwell</problem><text
class="heading3">Darkside Area</text><text
class="text">This is the wall above the lip of the cave to the left of the fallen block, and to the right of the finish of Vanishing Point.</text><image
src="Oatlandsdk6.jpg"/><problem extra="(Stand)" grade="V?"
name=" " number="1."
stars=" ">Up face from jugs at lip</problem><problem
extra="(Stand)" grade="V1" name=" " number="2."
stars=" ">Up face from jugs at lip</problem><problem
extra="(Stand)" grade="V1" name=" " number="3."
stars=" ">Up face from jugs at lip</problem><text
class="text">The following problems are in under the roof on the right hand side of the cave.</text><image
src="Oatlandsdarkside.jpg"/><problem extra="(Stand)" grade="V13"
name="Healing Hands" number="1."
stars=" ">FA Sam Edwards</problem><problem extra="(Stand)"
grade="V1" name=" " number="2."
stars=" ">Traverse right to left along rail</problem><problem
extra="(Stand)" grade="V11" name="Darkside" number="3."
stars="**">Start at back of cave, jump out to big slope and traverse left, FA Sam Edwards</problem><problem
extra="(Stand)" grade="V?" name="Darkside Remix" number="4."
stars=" ">Kim's Project - Start about 3m right of Darkside. Move into the crux of Darkside, then keep traversing out left to the lip of the cave and finish up the wall.</problem><text
class="heading3">Right Side</text><text
class="text">This is the far right hand side of the cave.</text><image
src="Oatlandsdk rightside.jpg"/><problem extra="(Stand)"
grade="V2" name="" new="false" number=""
stars="*">Start a few metres left of the campus problem, and follow the diagonal line right.</problem><problem
extra="(Stand)" grade="V3" name="" new="false" number="1."
stars="">Up from good hold at lip</problem><problem
extra="(Stand)" grade="V?" name=" " number="2."
stars=" ">Project - Up from lip</problem><problem
extra="(SDS)" grade="V?" name=" " number="3."
stars=" ">Sam's project - through roof</problem><problem
extra="(SDS)" grade="V9" name=" " number="4."
stars=" ">
</problem><problem extra="(SDS)"
grade="V7?" name=" " number="5."
stars=" ">Through far right side of roof</problem><text
class="pagebreak">
</text><text
class="heading2">The Fallen Block </text><text
class="text">This is the large freestanding block that sits in front of the right hand side of the Devil's Kitchen. It is often overgrown with blackberries, you might need to do some gardening to get to the problems.</text><image
src="Oatlandsblock3.jpg"/><problem extra="(SDS)" grade="V5"
name="Flat Out" number="1."
stars="">Very low sit start, then up on slopey pockets</problem><image
src="Oatlandsblock1a.jpg" width="500"/><problem extra="(SDS)"
grade="V2/3" name=" " number="1."
stars=" ">Start underneath overhang and pull up and over</problem><problem
extra="(Stand)" grade="V0" name=" " number="2."
stars=" ">Slab just right of overhang</problem><problem
extra="(Stand)" grade="VE" name=" " number="3."
stars=" ">Slab</problem><problem extra="(Stand)"
grade="VE" name=" " number="4."
stars=" ">Slab</problem><problem extra="(Stand)"
grade="VE" name="" number="5." stars="">Slab</problem><problem
extra="(SDS)" grade="V2" name=" " number="6."
stars=" ">Awkward sit start 2m left of Cripple</problem><problem
extra="(SDS)" grade="V2" name="Short and Sweet" number="7."
stars="*">Start on the two pockets of Cripple, but pull up and left to the big jug and the top</problem><problem
extra="(SDS)" grade="V4" name="Cripple" number="8."
stars="*">Sit start at two pockets on the left edge of the roof. Head out right to the arete and then finish up to the right.</problem><image
src="Oatlandsblock2.jpg"/><problem extra="(SDS)" grade="V6/7?"
name="" number="1."
stars="">Hard pull off ground from under lip about half way between Cripple and Fallen Angel, then up on slopes.</problem><problem
extra="(SDS)" grade="V3" name="Fallen Angel" number="2."
stars="*">Pull up from sloper on lip 2m left of Lucifer</problem><problem
extra="(SDS)" grade="V3" name="Lucifer" number="3."
stars="*">Pull up from pocket, starting off block</problem><problem
extra="(SDS)" grade="V3" name=" " number="4."
stars=" ">
</problem><text
class="heading2">Highball Wall</text><text
class="access">This is the high orange vertical wall, which is the next bit of rock to the south of the cave.</text><image
src="Oatlandshighball.jpg"/><problem extra="(Highball, Stand)"
grade="V2" name=" " new="false" number="1."
stars="">Up the highest part of the wall, watch out for dicey holds, FA Vincent Day, Kim Robinson</problem><problem
extra="(SDS)" grade="V1" name="" new="false" number="4."
stars="*">Sit start around to the left, under the chossy cave, and traverse leftwards on quite nice rock, to finish up in the corner.</problem><text
class="heading2">Warm Up Blocks</text><text
class="access">These angled yellow free standing blocks are about 80m south of the Devil's Kitchen, on the next bit of rock that you come to.</text><image
src="Oatlandswarmup.jpg"/><problem extra="(Stand)" grade="V0-"
name=" " number="1."
stars=" ">Easy slabs. There are 3 different slab lines on the left end of the boulder</problem><problem
extra="(SDS)" grade="V3" name=" " number="2."
stars=" ">Sitstart from flake</problem><problem
extra="(SDS)" grade="V3" name="Wedgie" number="3."
stars=" ">Sit start about 3m left of arete on horizontal break</problem><problem
extra="(SDS)" grade="V4" name=" " number="4."
stars="*">Start left of arete under roof. Up on good holds about 1m left of arete without using arete after start</problem><problem
extra="(SDS)" grade="V2" name="Getting Warmer" number="5."
stars="*">Left to arete then up it</problem><problem
extra="(SDS)" grade="V3" name="Snappy Direct" number="6."
stars=" ">Start as for Getting Warmer and go up the face to the R of the arete and top out</problem><problem
extra="(SDS)" grade="V2" name="Snappy" number="7."
stars=" ">Start as for Getting Warmer, go up and right to finish as for Comedy Value</problem><problem
extra="(SDS)" grade="V2" name="Comedy Value" number="8."
stars=" ">Up thin wall to slopey topout</problem><problem
extra="(Stand)" grade="V?" name=" " number="9."
stars=" ">Project - traverse slopey lip to top</problem><problem
extra="(SDS)" grade="V6" name="Dull Blade" number="10."
stars=" ">Up thin holds to slopers. Don't use any handholds on Warm Me Up</problem><problem
extra="(SDS)" grade="V1" name="Warm Me Up" number="11."
stars="**">Up jugs on right side of block</problem><text
class="heading2">Backdoor Block</text><text
class="access">Head up the corridor to the left of the Warm Up Blocks to find this boulder with a distinctive overhanging prow.</text><image
src="Oatlandsbackdoor.jpg"/><problem extra="(SDS)" grade="V0"
name=" " number="1."
stars=" ">Up to the left of the overhang</problem><problem
extra="(Highball, Stand)" grade="V5" name="Aphex Twin"
number="2."
stars="*">Traverse the thin line rightwards and finish up no 4.</problem><problem
extra="(SDS)" grade="V4" name="Kiche the Curry Dog" number="3."
stars="*">Out through roof and top out</problem><problem
extra="(Highball, SDS)" grade="V3" name="Backdoor" number="4."
stars="*">Up arete and out through overhanging prow on jugs</problem><problem
extra="(SDS)" grade="V2" name=" " number="5."
stars=" ">Start as for no 4. but go up and right and do the slopey topout</problem><text
class="text">The next boulder problem is on the short arete just opposite Backdoor, on the same chunk of rock as Wedgie (Warm Up Blocks).</text><problem
extra="(SDS)" grade="V3" name="Spearhead" number="6."
stars=" ">Start using RH crimp and left arete. A couple of moves gets you to the top jugs. Avoid tree on topout.</problem><text
class="heading2">Hidden Wall</text><text class="access"
new="false"
number="null.">This is the high wall that is partially obscured by the Backdoor Block.
The left hand end of the wall, which is opposite to the Backdoor Block, forms a slab.</text><image
src="Oatlandshiddenslab.jpg"/><problem extra="(Stand)"
grade="V0" name=" " number="1."
stars=" ">Easy slab to left of stump</problem><problem
extra="(Stand)" grade="V2" name="Eloise's Slab" number="2."
stars=" ">Slab to right of stump</problem><problem
extra="(Stand)" grade="V4"
name="The Disposable Heroes of Hiphoprisy" number="3."
stars=" ">Tricky slab directly below right hand stump</problem><problem
extra="(Stand)" grade="V2" name="Go back to the gym" number="4."
stars=" ">The slab to the right of green rock on pockets.</problem><problem
extra="(Stand)" grade="V3" name="Jando's Masterpiece!"
number="5."
stars=" ">Use brushed and non-brushed holds up most lichenous part of the slab. Would probably lose a grade in difficulty and gain a grade in quality with a decent clean.</problem><text
class="text">Further to the right the wall gets steeper and higher.</text><image
src="Oatlandshidden1.jpg"/><problem extra="(Highball, Stand)"
grade="V2/3" name="Kim's Highball" new="false" number="1."
stars="*">Up to flake and then jump to top</problem><problem
extra="(Highball, Stand)" grade="V4" name=" " new="false"
number="2."
stars="">Up to loose jugs and then dyno to flake to join no 1</problem><problem
extra="(Highball, SDS)" grade="V7" name="Blood Lust" new="false"
number="3."
stars="**">Start at jugs under roof near left side of fallen block. Up and right via crimps to slopey ledge and the top.</problem><problem
extra="(Highball, SDS)" grade="V7" name="Stitch in Time"
new="false" number="4."
stars="*">Sitstart at very big jugs then up via thin sharp edges to sloping ledge, high top out</problem><problem
extra="(Highball, SDS)" grade="V6" name="Time" new="false"
number="5."
stars="**">Start in slot, out to slopey edge, fire for lip, continue to top on average holds. FA Stu Bowling</problem><problem
extra="(Highball, SDS)" grade="V6?" name="Time LHV" number="5a."
stars=" ">Project - Start as for Time, then trend left at half height to meet no 4. and finish as for that</problem><text
class="text">To the right of the main face is a small overhanging face.</text><image
src="Oatlandshidden2.jpg"/><problem extra="(SDS)" grade="V4"
name=" " number="6."
stars=" ">Sitstart under little rooflet, up on thin holds then jump for jug</problem><problem
extra="(SDS)" grade="V3" name=" " number="7."
stars=" ">Sitstart under little rooflet at flake, up on thin holds then jump for jug</problem><text
class="text">The far right hand side of the wall ends in a sharp steep arete.</text><image
src="Oatlandshidden3.jpg"/><problem extra="(Highball, Stand)"
grade="V5/Hard" name=" " new="false" number="2."
stars="">High steep arete. Harder if your short. FA Kim Robinson</problem><text
class="text" new="false"
number="null.">About 15m up to the right is a grotty cave.</text><problem
extra="(SDS)" grade="V?" name="" new="false" number=""
stars="">Start at the painted arrow at the lip of the grotty cave.</problem><text
class="heading2">Lloyd's Wall </text><text
class="access">This vertical wall is on the north facing side of the point to the south of the Warm Up Blocks.</text><image
src="Oatlandslloydswall2.jpg"/><problem extra="(SDS)" grade="V4"
name="Grendel" number=" "
stars=" ">Start just left of the Lloyds engraving on the left hand side of the wall (the obvious left sweeping arc). Sit start at pinch (feet off slab), up via under clings to your left and sharp edges to your right. Top out using good holds at lip.</problem><problem
extra="(Stand)" grade="V7" name=" " new="false"
number="1."
stars="*">A big reach to holds in the little corner. First ascent was by a very tall person, this problem is considerably harder using the lower holds.</problem><problem
extra="(Stand)" grade="V6" name=" " number="2."
stars=" ">Reachy to first hold</problem><problem
extra="(Stand)" grade="V5" name="Lloyd's Dyno" new="false"
number="3."
stars="**">Dyno to top from good hold</problem><problem
extra="(SDS)" grade="V?" name=" " number=" "
stars=" ">Project sit start to Lloyd's dyno. Start 1m right, up thin flake, then left to good hold</problem><problem
extra="(SDS)" grade="V6" name="Campbell's Problem"
number=" "
stars=" ">5m right of Lloyd's Dyno, sitstart up flake, then right and up thin slab</problem><text
class="text">The middle section of the wall forms a high cave.</text><image
src="Oatlandslloydswall2a.jpg" width="500"/><problem
extra="(SDS)" grade="V1" name="Nettle Lover" number="1."
stars=" ">Sitstart under roof and climb up onto slab via jugs</problem><problem
extra="(SDS)" grade="V2" name="Cardboard Thin" number="2."
stars=" ">Sitstart and up into curving undercling</problem><problem
extra="(SDS)" grade="V3/4" name="Itchy and Scratchy" number="3."
stars="*">Start on two small edges around corner, traverse leftwards along rail and into Cardboard Thin.</problem><problem
extra="(Highball, SDS)" grade="V3" name="Al's Highball"
new="false" number="4."
stars="*">Start at the start of the Nettle Lover traverse and climb up to the high ledge and the top.</problem><text
class="text">On the far right of the cliff line is a small overhang.</text><image
src="Oatlandslloydswallright.jpg"/><problem extra="(Hang)"
grade="V3/4" name="Ren" number="1."
stars=" ">Start on good (loose) edge and good RH hold, up and right to good hold below lip, move left slightly to top out.</problem><problem
extra="(Hang)" grade="V4/5" name="Stimpy" number="2."
stars="*">Semi hang start using left toe hook, dynamic moves through reasonable holds to lip and top out slightly right of centre.</problem><text
class="heading2">The Egg Boulder</text><text
class="access">Around the corner from the Lloyd's Wall area is a free standing boulder on the shore of the lake. There are a couple of fun problems.</text><image
src="OatlandsEgg-01.JPG"/><problem extra="(SDS)" grade="V3/4"
name="Green" number="1."
stars="*">Sit start on good edges, move up and onto slab via small holds to top.</problem><problem
extra="(SDS)" grade="V3" name=" " number="2."
stars=" ">As for 1 but move right via good holds to arete, then to top.</problem><image
src="OatlandsEgg-02.JPG"/><problem extra="(Stand)" grade="V2"
name="Frixion" number="3."
stars=" ">Rock onto the blankish black slab and to top via mossy holds. Fun slab problem.</problem><problem
extra="(Stand)" grade="V4" name="Saddam's Slab of Torture"
number="4."
stars=" ">Right hand arete and slab.</problem><text
class="heading2">The Gorse Factory</text><text
class="text">This is the two tiered crag past the Egg Boulder and before the Bakehouse. It has a large clump of gorse in front of it.</text><image
src="Oatlandsgorsefactory1.jpg"/><text
class="text">This is the left hand side of the lower tier, in behind the gorse.</text><problem
extra="(Stand)" grade="V1" name="Wombat Fucker" number="1."
stars=" ">Stand start above the wombat burrow.</problem><problem
extra="(SDS)" grade="V?" name=" " number="2."
stars=" ">Project - Start on the good flat hold and traverse right, and up into the arch</problem><problem
extra="(SDS)" grade="V5" name="The Gorse Whisperer" new="false"
number="3."
stars="*">Start 1m right of no 2. and pull straight up to tricky topout, don't use holds on the arch.</problem><problem
extra="(Hang)" grade="V2" name=" " number="4."
stars=" ">Hang start on the right side of the arch and up</problem><problem
extra="(SDS)" grade="V3" name="Gorse Fucker" number="5."
stars="*">Sitstart on slopers on the right end of the wall. Pull up and left, don't pull round onto the slab.</problem><text
class="heading2">The Bakehouse</text><text
class="access">This high buttress is about 50m to the left (north) of the Yellow Cave. There are several lines yet to be done here.</text><image
src="Oatlandsbakehouse.jpg" width="500"/><problem extra="(SDS)"
grade="V?" name=" " number="1."
stars=" ">project</problem><problem extra="(SDS)"
grade="V?" name=" " number="2."
stars=" ">project</problem><problem extra="(Stand)"
grade="V?" name=" " number="3."
stars=" ">Project harder left start to Chocolate Eclair</problem><problem
extra="(Highball, Stand)" grade="V3" name="Chocolate Eclair"
number="4."
stars="***">The stunning arete up the centre of the wall, start on slopers to the right. A little high.</problem><problem
extra="(SDS)" grade="V?" name=" " number="5."
stars=" ">project</problem><text
class="heading2">The Yellow Cave</text><text
class="access">This large cave is about 20m to the left of the bottom dam</text><image
new="false" number="null." src="yellowcave.jpg"
width="">null</image><problem extra="(SDS)" grade="V3"
name=" " number="1."
stars=" ">Up through roof from sitstart at the back of cave.</problem><problem
extra="(SDS)" grade="V2" name=" " number="2."
stars="*">Up into finish of Sanguine from under roof.</problem><problem
extra="(SDS)" grade="V4" name="Sanguine" number="3."
stars="***">Traverse left on slopers then up for a couple of moves to finish on flat jug</problem><problem
extra="(SDS)" grade="V7" name="Roundhouse" new="false"
number="4."
stars="*">Start as for Sanguine, but move up a couple of metres, then head leftwards on slopes and pinches. Big move out to the finishing jug.</problem><problem
extra="(Hang)" grade="V6" name="" new="false" number="5."
stars="">Hang start on low ledge with your heel up. Move right along the line for a couple of metres to finish on jug. The extension through the lip and top out would probably go.</problem><text
class="heading2" new="false"
number="null.">Dam Wall Left</text><text class="text"
new="false"
number="null.">This is the slabby wall directly north of the bottom dam, and just around to the right of the Yellow Cave.</text><image
new="false" number="null." src="damwallleft.jpg"
width="">null</image><problem extra="(Stand)" grade="V0"
name="Arsehat" new="false" number="1."
stars="">Easy slab</problem><problem extra="(Stand)" grade="V?"
name="" new="false" number="2."
stars="">Project - Up using very slopey basin. Way harder than it looks at first.</problem><problem
extra="(Stand)" grade="V?" name="" new="false" number="3."
stars="">Project - Up slab using high underclings to slopey mantle.</problem><text
class="heading2">The Island</text><text
class="heading3">The Island - Dam Side</text><text
class="access">The cave on the side of the island that faces the dam has some great problems. Access is easy as long as the lake is dry!</text><image
new="false" number="null." src="aubreymantle.jpg"
width="">null</image><text class="text" new="false"
number="null.">This is a small cave around and up to the left of the main cave.</text><problem
extra="(SDS)" grade="V3" name="Slap Slap" new="false"
number="1." stars=""/><problem extra="(SDS)" grade="V3"
name="Fear and Loathing" new="false" number="2."
stars="">Start as for previous, but go right through choss.</problem><image
src="Oatlandsisland3.jpg"/><problem extra="(SDS)" grade="V1"
name="Spirulina" number="1."
stars="*">Hang start on the large jug, climb up to the crack, jam through it and battle over the top FA Dave James</problem><problem
extra="(SDS)" grade="V5" name=" " new="false" number="2."
stars="*">Start at back of cave and climb out on jugs and jump around lip to big slopey basin. Topout has been done separatly by Callum Hyland at V6/7. FA Kim Robinson</problem><problem
extra="(SDS)" grade="V5" name=" " new="false" number="3."
stars="*">Climb out from back of cave to big jug on lip and traverse the lip rightwards to finish up La Nina. FA Kim Robinson</problem><problem
extra="(SDS)" grade="V9" name="Oonga Boonga" new="false"
number=""
stars="">Project - Start at back of cave directly in from the big jug, near the Oonga Boonga grafitti. Hard moves out the roof to the jug on the lip, and then even harder moves straight up to finish. The two halves have been done individually, both at about V9.</problem><problem
extra="(SDS)" grade="V3/4" name=" " new="false"
number="4."
stars="">Start as for La Nina and traverse the entire length of cave leftwards on the back wall to the start of Spirulina. FA Kim Robinson</problem><problem
extra="(SDS)" grade="V5" name="Doug's Linkup" new="false"
number=""
stars="">Start as for La Nina, and do the first move out to the flake/undercling. The head left on jugs through the roof, to finish at no. 2.</problem><problem
extra="(SDS)" grade="V4" name="La Nina" number="5."
stars="***">Start on jugs on the back wall 2m left of El Nino. Straight out to lip then finish right and up, FA Jon Nermut</problem><problem
extra=" " grade="V8" name=" " number="6."
stars=" ">Direct Finish to La Nina, FA Kim Robinson</problem><problem
extra="(SDS)" grade="V4" name="El Nino" number="7."
stars="*">Start at the right hand end of the cave. Out to lip then up and slightly left, FA Jon Nermut</problem><problem
extra="(SDS)" grade="V7" name="El Jeffe" new="false" number="8."
stars="*">Start in between El Nino and BuzzyLand at an undercling. Up to the two crimps on BuzzyLand and then straight up.</problem><problem
extra="(SDS)" grade="V8" name="BuzzyLand" new="false"
number="9."
stars="*">Start on undercling and go up and left, to finish as for El Nino. FA Kim Robinson</problem><text
class="heading3">Marys Wall</text><text
class="text">To the right of the cave is a long slabby wall. Most of these problems are still quite lichenous.</text><image
src="marys_slab.jpg" width="800"/><problem extra="(Stand)"
grade="V?" name="" number="2."
stars="">Project - up slab above right most little arch. A sitstart might go as well.</problem><problem
extra="(Stand)" grade="V1" name="Pagan Arse Bandit" new="false"
number="3."
stars="">Stand start on 2 finger pocket, up to crimp to ledge and top out. Can also be done as a sit start at about V5.</problem><problem
extra="(Stand)" grade="V0" name="" number="4."
stars="">Straight up the middle of the face, trickier if you are shorter.</problem><problem
extra="(Stand)" grade="V0" name="Julie's Flake" number="5."
stars="*">Up layback flake. Slightly harder with a sit start.</problem><problem
extra="(Stand)" grade="V1" name="Hairy Mary" number="6."
stars="">Slab on slopers</problem><problem extra="(Stand)"
grade="V0" name="" number="7."
stars="">Thin crack left of arete. Can be done with a sit start.</problem><problem
extra="(Stand)" grade="VE" name="" number="8."
stars="">Easy slab on ledges right of arete to harder top out.</problem><problem
extra="(Stand)" grade="V0" name="" number="9."
stars="">Slab on slopers</problem><text class="text" new="false"
number="null.">These problems are at the far right of the wall.</text><image
new="false" number="null." src="marysright.jpg"
width="">null</image><problem extra="(SDS)" grade="V2"
name="It's a Swan" new="false" number="1." stars="*"/><problem
extra="(SDS)" grade="V0" name="" new="false" number="2."
stars="">Good if you like mountaineering. For full effect start in the back of the cave.</problem><text
class="heading3" new="false"
number="null.">Anzac Wall</text><image new="false"
number="null." src="anzac.jpg" width="">null</image><text
class="text" new="false"
number="null.">This is the short wall around to the right of Mary's Wall. Mostly easy problems, and it gets morning sun.</text><problem
extra="(SDS)" grade="V0" name="" new="false" number="1."
stars="*">Stacked blocks to the left of the trees</problem><problem
extra="(SDS)" grade="V1" name="" new="false" number="2."
stars="">Wall just right of tree</problem><problem extra="(SDS)"
grade="V?" name="" new="false" number="3."
stars="">Project - hard pull off slopers on the left of the steep section of the wall.</problem><problem
extra="(Stand)" grade="V1" name="Lone Pine" new="false"
number="4." stars="">Mantle</problem><problem extra="(SDS)"
grade="V0" name="Gallipoli" new="false" number="5."
stars="">Pull up either left or right and mantle, on the left edge of the little cave.</problem><problem
extra="(SDS)" grade="V1" name="Sandakan" new="false" number="6."
stars="">Pull through little roof and mantle</problem><problem
extra="(SDS)" grade="V3" name="Kokoda" new="false" number="7."
stars="*">Start at right edge of cave. Traverse the wall leftwards all the way to the tree.</problem><text
class="heading3">The Island - Town Side</text><text
class="access">These buttresses face the town. They look a bit sandy but provide some good climbing.</text><image
src="Oatlandsisland.jpg"/><problem extra="(Hang)" grade="V8"
name="Pungi" number="1."
stars="**">Hang start and up and right on pockets to slopey topout. Stand start is V7.</problem><problem
extra="(SDS)" grade="V9" name="Body & Mind" new="false"
number=""
stars="*">Start just left of Aeon Flux, move out left to arete then up into Pungi.</problem><problem
extra="(SDS)" grade="V8" name="" new="false" number=""
stars="*">Start as for Body & Mind, but climb up arete.</problem><problem
extra="(SDS)" grade="V5/6" name="Aeon Flux" number="2."
stars="*">Sitstart out small roof to pocketed face, hard mantle top out.</problem><problem
extra="(SDS)" grade="V?" name=" " number="3."
stars=" ">Project</problem><image
src="Oatlandsisland2.jpg"/><problem extra="(Stand)" grade="V1"
name=" " number="4."
stars=" ">
</problem><problem extra="(Stand)"
grade="V1" name=" " number="5."
stars=" ">
</problem><problem extra="(Stand)"
grade="V3" name="Spreadeagled" number="6."
stars=" ">Jump for lip then mantle.</problem><text
class="heading2">Dam Wall</text><text
class="access">To the right of the bottom dam is a long, steep, featureless wall</text><problem
extra="(SDS)" grade="V13" name="My Happy Place" new="false"
number=""
stars="**">30m? right of the bottom dam is a bulgy arete feature just to the left of a little chimney crack. Sit start in the crack, head left and around the arete, then up to slopers.</problem><image
src="Oatlandsdamwall.jpg"/><problem extra="(SDS)" grade="V5"
name="Crack Head" number="1."
stars="*">About 50m right of the dam is a very steep hand crack usually full of cobwebs. Sit start on finger locks, up to jams, top out on ledge</problem><text
class="access">About 25m to the right of Crack Head is a free standing boulder, a bit fractured and loose but has a couple of fun problems.</text><image
src="OatlandsBoulder.JPG"/><problem extra="(SDS)" grade="V3"
name="Iron Maiden" number="1."
stars="*">Sit start on good holds, up to curving arete, use holds only on arete. Top out at apex of boulder.</problem><problem
extra="(SDS)" grade="V3" name="Fractal" number="2."
stars=" ">Start as for previous problem, up middle of face using good edge and loose finger crack, dyno to apex. No holds on arete.</problem><text
class="heading2">Funky Town </text><text
class="access">To get to Funky Town walk across the bottom dam, and then walk left around the point. Follow it around to find a cave in the back of the point, on the opposite side to the Yellow Cave.</text><text
class="heading3">Funky Town Boulder</text><text
class="text">There are a couple of lines on the free standing boulder you pass on the way to the Funky Town Cave.</text><image
src="Oatlandsfunkyboulder1.jpg"/><problem extra="(SDS)"
grade="V?" name=" " number="1."
stars=" ">Project</problem><problem extra="(Stand)"
grade="V3" name=" " number="2."
stars=" ">Stand start off slopes with foot in large pocket at base of boulder. Up to slopey lip and top out. Sit start is a project.</problem><image
src="Oatlandsfunkyboulder2.jpg"/><problem extra="(Hang)"
grade="V5" name="Stuck on You" number="1."
stars=" ">Start off slopey side pull and horizontal crimp, with the help of a couple of pads or a rock. The full sit start is a project.</problem><problem
extra="(Stand)" grade="V3" name=" " new="false"
number="2."
stars="">Stand start off edges, static up and left to good hold, power up to jug. Top out.</problem><problem
extra="(Stand)" grade="V5" name=" " new="false"
number="3."
stars="">Start slightly right of 2 on edge and slope, powerful move up and right to large open pocket, top out.</problem><problem
extra="(SDS)" grade="V5" name="Unstuck" new="false" number="4."
stars="">Sit start 1m right of arete, up to sloper and top out</problem><problem
extra=" " grade="V10+?" name=" " number="5."
stars=" ">Project - traverse right to left around the boulder to link into 1 on the other side - very hard due to a lack of footholds and average handholds.</problem><text
class="heading3">Funky Town Wall</text><text
class="text">There have been some lines attempted on the high slab to the left of the cave.</text><text
class="heading3">Funky Town Cave</text><text class="text"
new="false"
number="null.">This is the large grotty black cave.</text><image
src="Oatlandsfunkytown.jpg" width="800"/><problem extra="(SDS)"
grade="V12/13" name="Fade To Black" new="false" number="1."
stars="">Hang start on the horrendous pinches, slap up to slopes and traverse right to jug as for Kung Fu Fighting. FA Sam Edwards</problem><problem
extra="(SDS)" grade="V9" name="Kung Fu Fighting" number="2."
stars=" ">Start on undercling and slope and slap up to slopes and traverse right to jug. FA Sam Edwards</problem><problem
extra="(SDS)" grade="V8/9" name=" " number="3."
stars=" ">Was V7 until the starting hold broke. FA Sam Edwards</problem><problem
extra="(SDS)" grade="V?" name=" " number="3a."
stars=" ">Project - Start on the slopes just to the right of 3 and up to the same finish</problem><problem
extra="(Stand)" grade="V3" name=" " number="4."
stars=" ">Traverse</problem><problem extra="(SDS)"
grade="V10" name="Groove Train" number="5."
stars=" ">Start on slopes with heel up. Probably easier if you're tall and harder if you're not. FA Kim Robinson</problem><problem
extra="(SDS)" grade="V12" name=" " number="6."
stars=" ">Project</problem><text
class="heading2">The Electric Avenue</text><text
class="access">These are the short walls on the next point across from Funky Town. The first section has potential for quite a few more short, moderate problems.</text><image
src="Oatlandselectric2.jpg" width="800"/><problem extra="(SDS)"
grade="V2" name=" " number="1."
stars=" ">Start as for Electric Avenue but go left to the next set of jugs</problem><problem
extra="(SDS)" grade="V2" name="Electric Avenue" number="2."
stars=" ">Start 1m left of arete at jug. Up jugs to top.</problem><problem
extra="(Stand)" grade="V0" name=" " number="3."
stars=" ">Start at flat hold 1m right of arete</problem><text
class="heading2">Electric Wall</text><image
src="Oatlandselectric1.jpg"/><text
class="text">Around to the right is this higher wall, just to the left of the fence. More cleaning is needed on these problems.</text><problem
extra="(SDS)" grade="V1" name=" " number="1."
stars=" ">Sitstart and up flakes, go left to finish, or straight up which is harder</problem><problem
extra="(SDS)" grade="V4" name="Blind Mullet" number="2."
stars=" ">Either sitstart as for no 1. or come in from holds to the right. Up to flake/ramp and to top. Sit start from the right is a project.</problem><problem
extra="(Stand)" grade="V4/5" name="Electric Lazyland"
number="3."
stars="*">Dyno from flake to top and desperate topout. Sit start may also go.</problem><problem
extra="(Stand)" grade="V?" name=" " number="4."
stars=" ">Project - pockets and thin flake 1m right of arete</problem><text
class="heading2" new="false"
number="null.">Freds Point</text><text class="text" new="false"
number="null.">Freds Point is the next point south from the bottom dam. Either walk around/across the lake from there, or park at the end of Hay Street.</text><text
class="heading3" new="false"
number="null.">Lairmairanepair Park</text><text class="text"
new="false"
number="null.">Drive along the road to Paratah for a couple of hundred metres and turn left into Hay Street. Drive along this, through the gate, and park at the sign that marks the entrance to the little park. Walk along the track to find some smallish overhangs.</text><text
class="text" new="false"
number="null.">On the largest of the overhangs:</text><problem
extra="(SDS)" grade="V2" name="Long Neck" new="false"
number="1."
stars="">The left side of the overhang to mantle.</problem><text
class="text" new="false"
number="null.">There are three or so hard lines out through the middle of the overhang that haven't been done yet.</text><problem
extra="(SDS)" grade="V2" name="" new="false" number="2."
stars="">The right hand side of the overhang.</problem><text
class="heading3" new="false"
number="null.">Black Cliff</text><text class="text" new="false" number="null.">On the south side of Freds Point is a cliff about 10m high. There are some problems to be done in the sandy cave at the bottom of the cliff.</text></guide>
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