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<guide><text class="heading1" new="false"<guide><header
        numberaccess="null.">Lark's Edge</text><text class="Editor"
        new="false"
        number="null.">by Peter Jackson, originally published in Craglets.</text><text
        class="text">The first climbs are on the Main Wall. There are now five bolts and one absolutely manky piton atop, which now make top-roping and topping-out a dream.</text><climb
        extra="" grade="15" length="8m"
        name="Dawntreader">The east face of the leaning block. Go up, moving left to the arete and the finish. Marcel Jackson (solo), Nov 89.</climb><climb
        extra="" grade="16" length="8m"
        name="Anchor Blade">Climb the right-hand edge of the leaning block which faces the cliff. Step up with difficulty then follow the arete to the top. Very poor protection (none!). Marcel Jackson, Nov/89.</climb><climb
        extra="" grade="16" length="8m"
        name="Schweppes">The inside wall of the leaning block. Climb the face trending right towards the top. Small wire protection is possible but of doubtful quality. Hamish Jackson, Nov/89.</climb><climb
        extra="" grade="9" length="10m"
        name="Aiken Drum">Very pleasant. Start immediately right of Anchor Blade and across the gap leading to Schweppes. Climb up on rounded holds to an easy angled crack. Jacksons (solo), Nov/89.</climb><climb
        extra="" grade="18" length="10m"
        name="Postscript">Climb the face and crack 2m right of Aiken Drum. Marcel Jackson (solo), Nov/89.</climb><climbTo get to the crag requires a thirty minute drive and a slightly shorter walk. Leave Hobart and drive toward Clifton Beach. About a hundred metres before the beach (and just before the wooden bus shelter) turn left down Bicheno Road. &quot;Power&quot; along the road to a right turn at the &quot;Cape Deslacs Coastal Reserve&quot; sign, about a kilometre past the last hump. Drive along the gravel road for several kilometres until almost at the Cape. Park in the lower car park and from its furthermost point walk along the largest track through the trees, and across the paddocks, towards the coast. Follow the coast north for about 1.5km. After passing an inlet and about 10 minutes walk, you will glimpse the cliffs in the distance - and will probably dismiss them as being too small. However, rest assured that they are more impressive in the flesh. When amongst the thistles and old grey stumps, drop downhill to Lark's Edge - a short half-hours walk all up. Refer to the section on Clifton for an access map."
        acknowledgement="by Peter Jackson, originally published in Craglets."
        history=""
        intro="Although Lark's Edge is a small crag, it possesses some excellent little climbs. The location beside the sea is quite exquisite, although it might not be such a great place when the swell is up! If you really went for it, you might do all you want to in a single visit - but then again, how many people do ten or fifteen routes in a day?"
        name="Lark's Edge" new="false" rock="Short dolerite buttresses"
        extrasun="Morning sun" gradewalk="16"30 length="10m"min"></header><text
        nameclass="Aussie Butlertext">Rather>The deceptive.first Startclimbs aboutare 3mon rightthe ofMain PostscriptWall. Climb the overhangThere are now five bolts and continueone upabsolutely themanky crackpiton movingatop, leftwhich atnow themake top.
Marcel Jackson, Nov/89-roping and topping-out a dream.</climb><climbtext><climb
        extra="" grade="1915" length="10m8m"
        name="Dawntreader"Aussie>The Butlereast Variant">Startface asof for the originalleaning lineblock. ClimbGo theup, incipientmoving crackleft onto the leftarete to finishand at the same pointfinish. Marcel Jackson (solo), Nov/ 89.</climb><climb
        extra="" grade="1416" length="10m8m"
        name="WallAnchor StreetBlade">A climb on steep and alarming rock>Climb the right-hand edge of the leaning block which mayfaces wellthe collapse!cliff. AfterStep Aussieup Butlerwith thedifficulty cliffthen basefollow turnsthe a corner. Climbarete to the facetop. justVery rightpoor of the areteprotection (none!). HamishMarcel Jackson, Nov/89.</climb><climb
        extra="" grade="2116" length="12m" name="Nexter"8m"
        starsname="Schweppes">The **inside ">Almostwall brilliantof -the steepleaning faceblock. climbingClimb withthe smallface wiretrending protectionright fortowards the top crux. Start 1m right of the chimney and ascend the thin crack in the wall. Marcel Small wire protection is possible but of doubtful quality. Hamish Jackson, Nov/89.</climb><climb
        extra="" grade="209" length="12m10m"
        name="Strongbow">The shallow left facing corner 3m right of NexterAiken Drum">Very pleasant. Start immediately right of Anchor Blade and across the gap leading to Schweppes. Climb up on goodrounded holds, thento finishan upeasy theangled cornercrack. MarcelJacksons Jackson(solo), Nov/89.</climb><climb
        extra="" grade="2218" length="12m10m"
        name="OzonePostscript">Steep>Climb the climbingface upand acrack proud2m sectionright of rock. Start 1m right of Strongbow. Climb the face to the small roof, pull around this, then continue up to the horizontal break and a good runner. A long crank allows the hole to be reached and hence  Aiken Drum. Marcel Jackson (solo), Nov/89.</climb><climb
        extra="" grade="16" length="10m"
        name="Aussie Butler">Rather deceptive. Start about 3m right of Postscript. Climb the overhang and continue up the crack moving left at the top.
Marcel Jackson, Nov/89.</climb><climb
        extra="" grade="2219" length="12m10m"
        name="Thug">The obvious hand-crackAussie Butler Variant">Start as for the original line. Climb the withincipient difficultycrack aroundon the overhang,left thento morefinish easilyat up the cracksame abovepoint. Marcel Jackson, Nov/89.</climb><climb
        extra="" grade="2014" length="12m10m"
        name="Clubfoot">Start as for Thug. Climb right across the sweep of grey rock beneath the overhang then pull onto the face above. Continue up easily to a short wall finish. PeterWall Street">A climb on steep and alarming rock which may well collapse! After Aussie Butler the cliff base turns a corner. Climb the face just right of the arete. Hamish Jackson, Nov/89.</climb><climb
        extra="" grade="1921" length="12m" name="Nexter"
        namestars="Stairway to** Heaven">Great>Almost funbrilliant with- asteep cruxface finish.climbing Startwith atsmall thewire corner right of Clubfoot. Climbprotection for the easytop corner,crux. thenStart move1m leftright of the overhang to a long reach finish chimney and ascend the thin crack in the wall. Marcel Jackson, Nov/89.</climb><climb
        extra="" grade="1820" length="12m"
        name="NgalibangaStrongbow">Start>The justshallow rightleft offacing Stairwaycorner to3m Heaven.right Ascendof theNexter. fingerClimb pocketsup andon thegood faceholds, then finish out right ofup the roofcorner. Marcel Jackson, Nov/89.</climb><climb
        extra="" grade="1922" length="12m"
        name="KekoOzone">Sustained face>Steep climbing justup righta ofproud Ngalibanga.section Marcel Jackson, Nov/89.</climb><climb
        extra="" grade="17" length="12m"
        name="Leyland P76">Start on the face just right of Keko. Climb up to join the right trending crack at one third height. Continue on to a small jug and hence to the top. Evan Peacock, Jan/90of rock. Start 1m right of Strongbow. Climb the face to the small roof, pull around this, then continue up to the horizontal break and a good runner. A long crank allows the hole to be reached and hence the top.
Marcel Jackson, Nov/89.</climb><climb
        extra="" grade="1522" length="12m"
        name="Little MaryThug">The small corner with twin cracks. Peter obvious hand-crack. Climb with difficulty around the overhang, then more easily up the crack above. Marcel Jackson, Nov/89.</climb><climb
        extra="" grade="1920" length="10m12m"
        name="FreezinhotClubfoot">Start immediately as for Thug. Climb right ofacross Littlethe Mary.sweep Moveof upgrey easilyrock tobeneath the horizontaloverhang break, then to a large jug onpull onto the rightface areteabove. Continue Reachup higheasily forto a sloper,short thenwall the topfinish. Evan PeacockPeter (solo)Jackson, JanNov/9089.</climb><climb
        extra="" grade="819" length="8m12m"
        name="Dog on a Cold Wet Slab">The easy boulder 1m right of Freezinhot. Evan Peacock, Jan/90Stairway to Heaven">Great fun with a crux finish. Start at the corner right of Clubfoot. Climb the easy corner, then move left of the overhang to a long reach finish. Marcel Jackson, Nov/89.</climb><climb
        extra="" grade="1618" length="10m12m"
        name="Sunset Over Carlton">Climb the line up the face just to the left of Scuba Diving, with runners in the incipient crack to the right. Colin Reed, Jan/90Ngalibanga">Start just right of Stairway to Heaven. Ascend the finger pockets and the face, then finish out right of the roof. Marcel Jackson, Nov/89.</climb><climb
        extra="" grade="1419" length="10m12m"
        name="Scuba DivingKeko">The>Sustained obviousface crackclimbing atjust the backright of the big poolNgalibanga. Evan Peacock (solo)Marcel Jackson, JanNov/9089.</climb><climb
        extra="" grade="2117" length="10m12m"
        name="Megasweet">TheLeyland P76">Start on the face immediatelyjust right of Scuba DivingKeko. TheClimb lineup isto decent but protection is less so (RP's out right). Evan Peacock, Jan/90.</climb><text
        class="text">All other routes are well beyond the big pool. The first is on Strine Wall.</text><climbjoin the right trending crack at one third height. Continue on to a small jug and hence to the top. Evan Peacock, Jan/90.</climb><climb
        extra="" grade="2015" length="10m12m"
        name="Strine">Climb up on small holds to a horizontal crack, then on to the top. Marcel        name="Little Mary">The small corner with twin cracks. Peter Jackson, Nov/89.</climb><textclimb><climb
        class="text">About 100m north along the coast are the Compact Walls. They are slightly smaller than the main one, and are located just before the large 'island' platform (the Big Sucker). Accessextra="" grade="19" length="10m"
        name="Freezinhot">Start immediately right of Little Mary. Move up easily to the bottomhorizontal ofbreak, thethen climbsto cana easilylarge bejug madeon bythe descendingright atarete. eitherReach endhigh offor thea wallsloper, orthen bythe scramblingtop. alongEvan at sea levelPeacock (solo), Jan/90.</text><climbclimb><climb
        extra="" grade="188" length="8m"
        name="Black Lace">Climbs up the unlikely looking twin cracks. Marcel Jackson, Nov/89Dog on a Cold Wet Slab">The easy boulder 1m right of Freezinhot. Evan Peacock, Jan/90.</climb><climb
        extra="" grade="1216" length="8m10m"
        name="Pox">The layback/hand crack up the left-hand side of the pillarSunset Over Carlton">Climb the line up the face just to the left of Scuba Diving, with runners in the incipient crack to the right. Colin Reed, Jan/90.</climb><climb
        extra="" grade="1614" length="8m10m"
        name="CrinkleScuba CutDiving">Start>The 10mobvious rightcrack ofat Blackthe Laceback andof 2mthe leftbig of Barbed Wire Love. Peter Jackson, Nov/89pool. Evan Peacock (solo), Jan/90.</climb><climb
        extra="" grade="21" length="8m10m"
        name="Barbed Wire Love">A single small wire placement at the thin horizontal crack ensures ground fall potential in the upper reaches after the middle layback crux. Marcel Jackson, Nov/89Megasweet">The face immediately right of Scuba Diving. The line is decent but protection is less so (RP's out right). Evan Peacock, Jan/90.</climb><text
        class="text">About>All 50mother rightroutes ofare herewell isbeyond athe boulderingbig areapool. FurtherThe onfirst still,is on an isolated buttress and the last routesStrine Wall.</text><climb
        extra="" grade="1720" length="10m"
        name="Birds Nest Revisited">The left-hand route. Climb easilyStrine">Climb up on small holds to thea smallhorizontal roofcrack, then proceedon upto the loose blocks on dubious geartop. Marcel Jackson, Nov/89.</climb><climbclimb><text
        extra="" grade="18" length="10m"
        name="Chordate">The strenuous crack up better rock to the right. Peter Jackson, Nov/89.</climb><text
        class="text" new="false" number="null.">Although Lark's Edge is a small crag, it possesses some excellent little climbs. The location beside the sea is quite exquisite, although it might not be such a great place when the swell is up! If you really went for it, you might do all you want to in a single visit - but then again, how many people do ten or fifteen routes in a day?  
To get to the crag requires a thirty minute drive and a slightly shorter walk. Leave Hobart and drive toward Clifton Beach. About a hundred metres before the beach (and just before the wooden bus shelter) turn left down Bicheno Road. "Power" along the road to a right turn at the "Cape Deslacs Coastal Reserve" sign, about a kilometre past the last hump. Drive along the gravel road for several kilometres until almost at the Cape. Park in the lower car park and from its furthermost point walk along the largest track through the trees, and across the paddocks, towards the coast. Follow the coast north for about 1.5km. After passing an inlet and about 10 minutes walk, you will glimpse the cliffs in the distance - and will probably dismiss them as being too small. However, rest assured that they are more impressive in the flesh. When amongst the thistles and old grey stumps, drop downhill to Lark's Edge - a short half-hours walk all up. Refer to the section on Clifton for an access map. 
</text><class="text">About 100m north along the coast are the Compact Walls. They are slightly smaller than the main one, and are located just before the large 'island' platform (the Big Sucker). Access to the bottom of the climbs can easily be made by descending at either end of the wall or by scrambling along at sea level.</text><climb
        extra="" grade="18" length="8m"
        name="Black Lace">Climbs up the unlikely looking twin cracks. Marcel Jackson, Nov/89.</climb><climb
        extra="" grade="12" length="8m"
        name="Pox">The layback/hand crack up the left-hand side of the pillar.</climb><climb
        extra="" grade="16" length="8m"
        name="Crinkle Cut">Start 10m right of Black Lace and 2m left of Barbed Wire Love. Peter Jackson, Nov/89.</climb><climb
        extra="" grade="21" length="8m"
        name="Barbed Wire Love">A single small wire placement at the thin horizontal crack ensures ground fall potential in the upper reaches after the middle layback crux. Marcel Jackson, Nov/89.</climb><text
        class="text">About 50m right of here is a bouldering area. Further on still, on an isolated buttress and the last routes.</text><climb
        extra="" grade="17" length="10m"
        name="Birds Nest Revisited">The left-hand route. Climb easily to the small roof, then proceed up the loose blocks on dubious gear. Marcel Jackson, Nov/89.</climb><climb
        extra="" grade="18" length="10m" name="Chordate">The strenuous crack up better rock to the right. Peter Jackson, Nov/89.</climb></guide>