Page History

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<guide guidestars="*" pagesize="500"><header
        access="Access to Rocky Tom requires a ten minute drive and then a fifteen30 minute walk. From the city centre, head for the eastern shore via the Tasman Bridge and head for Sorell. Leave the highway 4 km from the bridge at the B33 exit (Mornington, Warrane, etc), turn rightR toward Flagstaff Gully and park 5 km further on, past the first entrance to the Quarry, at the Flagstaff Gully Reserve, before the entrance to the Quarry proper.  Note that the gate 100m at the bottom of the initial hill, by the reservoir (800m from the end of the road), is locked after hours, so it is advisable to park in the area provided just outside the gate. There is now an additional gate about 800 m before the one(The gate marked on the map. Youis canno walklonger fromused). it. If the timing suits it is open: weekdays 6am – 4pm; Sat 6am – 12 pm; Sun closed.
  The walk has been considered by some to be steep and exhausting, but it is short and along a well defined track. From the car, walk to the end of the bitumen road. Follow the 4wd road track (now very rough)  which leads down left from behind the tree in the middle of a parking bay. This soon crosses a creek and then heads uphill. After ascending for about ten minutes, the roadtrack veers rightR and a walking track heads up to the leftL. Follow this for 200m up to Shadow Buttress.
 The buttresses and climbs are described in the conventional leftL-to-rightR ordering. Note that the track first approaches Shadow Buttress, then crosses the hill to Hanging Buttress, before swinging east past the rest of Castle Wall, Square Buttress and White Stump. The Bastille and Lone Tower are approached from Shadow Buttress by deviating from the normal track."
        acknowledgement="by Matt Perchard, topos by Peter Jackson. Originally published in Craglets."
        history=""
        intro="This crag has a high occurrence of visits by Scout groups and school 'adventure skills' classes. The reason for its popularity with novices is pretty obvious when you visit, as it is one of the few cliffs in the Hobart region with a predominance of excellent easy routes. It also contains its share of good hard routes. Rocky Tom's popularity is also boosted by its closeness to town and a sunny aspect.
 The climbs at Rocky Tom are usually top-roped which is quite easily done (many have been soloed and, to my knowledge, no-one has ended up like Russel Chudleigh yet). Stainless steel bolts provide anchors at the top of some of the more popular routes, and trees are otherwise plentiful. However, there are few gear placements for those who would want to lead. As top-roping is the status-quo, the climbs have been graded for a top-rope ascent (whereas all other crags in this book are graded for a lead ascent). Most climbs are about 8m high and all are on sandstone."
        name="Rocky Tom" new="false"
        rock="Short sandstone buttresses. In places the rock is quite good."
        sun="Mixed sun and shade" walk="30 min uphill"></header><image
        new="false" noPrint="false" number="null." src="RockyT_Map.PNG"
        width="800">null</image><text class="heading3" new="false"
        number="null.">White Stump</text><text
   class="text" new="false"
        classvalue="text">FromFrom Hanging Buttress head east along the jeep track for 300m until the track heads down-hill to the rightR.  The buttress is 30m down leftL.  The rock on the buttress is fairly brittle, so leading is less desirable here than elsewhere.  Nevertheless, it does provide very steep and strenuous climbing and provides the longest climbs in the area.</text><image
        new="false" noPrint="false" number="null."
        src="RT_01_White_Stump.PNG" width="500">null</image><climb
        extra="" grade="13" length="17m"
        name="Miss Muffet (M)">Climb the arete on the left-hand end of the buttress.  TR Christie, 1967.</climb><climb">From Hanging Buttress head east along the jeep track for 300m until the track heads down-hill to the R.  The buttress is 30m down L.  The rock on the buttress is fairly brittle, so leading is less desirable here than elsewhere.  Nevertheless, it does provide very steep and strenuous climbing and provides the longest climbs in the area.</text><image
        extranew="false" gradenoPrint="16false" lengthnumber="15mnull."
        namesrc="Cast Iron Claw (C)">The face halfway between the left-hand arete and the chimney of Funnel-web.  The first moves are fairly  tricky.  The rest is easier but steep.</climb><climbRT_01_White_Stump.PNG" width="500">null</image><climb
        extra="" grade="13" length="17m" name="Miss Muffet (M)"
        extranew="false" gradenumber="15" lengthstars="15m"
        namevalue="Funnel-web (F)">The chimney which evenly bisectsClimb the arete on the LH end of the buttress.  Move out right atTR Christie, 1967.">Climb the arete on the LH end of the topbuttress.  TR Reg WilliamsChristie, 1967.</climb><climb
        extra="" grade="2016" length="15m"
        name="DevilCast RidesIron OutClaw (DC)">A
 devious and rather psychologically demanding little route.  Start at the base ofnew="false" number="" stars=""
        value="The face halfway between the LH arete and the chimney of Funnel-web.  Traverse out on small holds, heel-hook onto the face (crux) then finish up the cracks and face aboveThe first moves are fairly  tricky.  The rest is easier but steep.">The face halfway between the LH arete and the chimney of Funnel-web.  The first moves are fairly  tricky.  The rest is easier but steep.</climb><climb
        extra="" grade="1615" length="15m"
        name="FlyFunnel-web Trap (T)">A testing route up the face just right of Funnel-web.  Steep and worthwhile, though a little loose on the lower sectionsF)"
        new="false" number="" stars=""
        value="The chimney which evenly bisects the buttress.  Move out R at the top.  TR Reg Williams, 1967.">The chimney which evenly bisects the buttress.  Move out R at the top.  TR Reg Williams, 1967.</climb><climb
        extra="" grade="1520" length="15m"
        name="SpiderDevil Rides WallOut (SD)">The>A walldevious and directlyrather abovepsychologically thedemanding cherrylittle treeroute.  TheStart difficultiesat arethe proportionalbase toof the height.  TR John Wholan, 1967 chimney of Funnel-web.  Traverse out on small holds, heel-hook onto the face (crux) then finish up the cracks and face above.</climb><climb
        extra="" grade="1316" length="15m" name="Fly Trap (T)" new="10mfalse"
        namenumber=""Gossamer (G)">Just around the corner to the right of Spider Wall is a gently sloping face.  Start with a good orthopaedic move 2m right of the arete, then follow the good holds above to the top.</climb><text stars=""
        value="A testing route up the face just R of Funnel-web.  Steep and worthwhile, though a little loose on the lower sections.">A testing route up the face just R of Funnel-web.  Steep and worthwhile, though a little loose on the lower sections.</climb><climb
        classextra="heading3" newgrade="false15"
        number length="null.">Square Buttress</text><text15m"
        classname="textSpider Wall (S)">The nextwall worthwhiledirectly buttressabove tothe thecherry righttree.  The rockdifficulties is secure,are proportional to the holdsheight.  smallTR andJohn testingWholan, and the climbing technical.  Located halfway between White Stump and Castle Walls, it is easily approached from either.  Follow the jeep trail until you see the flat top of a buttress and a large gum tree 5m from the cliff edge.  A metre high cave runs most of its length at ground level.</text><image
        new="false" noPrint="false" number="null."
        src="RT_02_Square.PNG" width="500">null</image><climb extra=""
        grade="9" length="5m"
        name="Arapiles Crack (A)">The left-hand crack of the buttress.  You won't even get warmed up on this one!  TR Baxter, Stranger, 1967.</climb><climb1967.</climb><climb
        extra="" grade="13" length="10m" name="Gossamer (G)" new="false"
        number="" stars=""
        value="Just around the corner to the R of Spider Wall is a gently sloping face.  Start with a good orthopaedic move 2m R of the arete, then follow the good holds above to the top.">Just around the corner to the R of Spider Wall is a gently sloping face.  Start with a good orthopaedic move 2m R of the arete, then follow the good holds above to the top.</climb><text
        class="heading3" new="false"
        extranumber="null." grade="16" length="10m>Square Buttress</text><text class="text"
        namenew="false"Square
 Root Variant (V)">Start as for Arapiles Crack. value="The Climbnext upworthwhile forbuttress ato couplethe ofR. metres untilThe arock weaknessis leadssecure, upthe right.holds small Followand thistesting, moveand rightthe 2mclimbing thentechnical. finish directlyLocated uphalfway onbetween sloping holds.</climb><climb
        extra="" grade="16" length="10m"
        name="Square Root Direct (D)">Start midway along the face.  Climb directly up to meet the traverse of the original line then finish as for that &quot;root&quot;.</climb><climb
        extra="" grade="19" length="10m"
        name="Surd (Su)">The best route on the face.  Start as for Square Root Direct.  Climb up to the traverse, then continue straight up without deviations.</climb><climb
        extra="" grade="16" length="10m"
        name="Square Root (S)">A wandering face climb which finishes just to the right of Arapiles Crack.  Start at the parallel grooves on the extreme right of the buttress.  Climb up easily to about one-third height.  Move diagonally across to the left side of the face, then finish directly.  TR Reg Williams, 1967.</climb><climbWhite Stump and Castle Walls, it is easily approached from either.  Follow the jeep trail until you see the flat top of a buttress and a large gum tree 5m from the cliff edge.  A metre high cave runs most of its length at ground level.">The next worthwhile buttress to the R.  The rock is secure, the holds small and testing, and the climbing technical.  Located halfway between White Stump and Castle Walls, it is easily approached from either.  Follow the jeep trail until you see the flat top of a buttress and a large gum tree 5m from the cliff edge.  A metre high cave runs most of its length at ground level.</text><image
        extranew="false" gradenoPrint="19false" lengthnumber="10mnull."
        namesrc="Cube Root (C)">The most difficult route on the face.  Climb the initial few metres of Square Root.  Rather than traversing way out left, move left 1m then continue straight up through the middle of the &quot;blocks&quot;.  TR John Moore, 1967.</climb><climb
        extra="" grade="18" length="10m"
        name="Absurd">A steep route which takes in the line just left of the right-hand arete.  Climb the initial 3m of Square Root.  Continue up the steep face above, keeping left of the block and areteRT_02_Square.PNG" width="500">null</image><climb extra=""
        grade="9" length="5m" name="Arapiles Crack (A)" new="false"
        number="" stars=""
        value="The left-hand crack of the buttress.  You won't even get warmed up on this one!  TR C. Baxter, Stranger, 1967.">The left-hand crack of the buttress.  You won't even get warmed up on this one!  TR C. Baxter, Stranger, 1967.</climb><climb
        extra="" grade="116" length="10m" name="4mSquare Root Variant (V)"
        namenew="Oblique Gully">This is the major cleft separating the main part of the buttress from the smaller section to the right.  1967.</climb><climb
        extra="" grade="10" length="5m"
        name="Victoria">Climb up the shattered hand-to-fist crack 5m right of Oblique Gully.  TR Baxter, 1967false" number="" stars=""
        value="Start as for Arapiles Crack.  Climb up for a couple of metres until a weakness leads up R.  Follow this, move R 2m then finish directly up on sloping holds.">Start as for Arapiles Crack.  Climb up for a couple of metres until a weakness leads up R.  Follow this, move R 2m then finish directly up on sloping holds.</climb><climb
        extra="" grade="1416" length="4m10m"
        name="Una's Lock">The thin crack-line 10m right of Absurd.  TR Baxter, Stranger, 1967Square Root Direct (D)">Start midway along the face.  Climb directly up to meet the traverse of the original line then finish as for that &quot;root&quot;.</climb><climb
        extra="" grade="1819" length="4m10m"
        name="NathamSurd (Su)">The lichenbest coveredroute wallon justthe rightface. of Una's Lock.  Very thin.  TR John Moore, 1967.</climb><text
 Start as for Square Root Direct.  Climb up to the traverse, then continue straight up without deviations.</climb><climb
        extra="" grade="16" classlength="heading310m" newname="falseSquare Root (S)"
        numbernew="null.false">Castle Rock </text><text class number="text" newstars="false"
        numbervalue="null.">The most substantial piece of rock inA wandering face climb which finishes just to the arearight isof CastleArapiles RockCrack.  ThisStart extendsat forthe aparallel goodgrooves 50mon andthe providesextreme aR goodof scatteringthe ofbuttress. grades -Climb from easy 8'sup easily to egoabout testing 25'sone-third height.  ManyMove ofdiagonally theacross routesto ascendthe veryL steep rock, and inside of the Excaliburface, areathen the overhangs are testing for allfinish directly.  TheTR buttressesReg are directly approached from Shadow Buttress by following the pathWilliams, 1967.">A wandering face climb which finishes just to the topright of theArapiles hillCrack. and crossingStart toat the otherparallel sidegrooves ofon the hillextreme whereR itof overlooksthe Risdon Vale.</text><image
buttress.  Climb up easily to about  new="false" noPrint="false" number="null."one-third height.  Move diagonally across to the L side of the face, then finish directly.  TR Reg Williams, 1967.</climb><climb
        srcextra="" grade="RT_03_Castle.PNG19" widthlength="50010m">null</image><climb extraname="Cube Root (C)"
        new="false" gradenumber="16" lengthstars="7m"
        namevalue="Palpitations (P)">A directThe most difficult route upon less than vertical rock abovethe face.  Climb the treeinitial atfew the basemetres of theSquare buttressRoot.  StartRather 2mthan lefttraversing ofway Trembles.out L Surmountmove theL initial scab to a ledge.  Move slightly right 1m then continue thinlystraight up tothrough the top.  Quite testing formiddle of the grade&quot;blocks&quot;.  TR RegJohn WilliamsMoore, 1967.</climb><climb
        extra="" grade="12" length="7m"
        name="Trembles (T)">One of the best of the easy climbs in the area.  Climb the crack 3m left of the arete, finishing with some good (crux) moves on steep rock at the top">The most difficult route on the face.  Climb the initial few metres of Square Root.  Rather than traversing way out L move L 1m then continue straight up through the middle of the &quot;blocks&quot;.  TR John Moore, 1967.</climb><climb
        extra="" grade="1318" length="7m"10m" name="Absurd" new="false"
        number="" namestars="Trembles Arete (TA)">A direct""
        value="A steep route which takes in the areteline to the immediate rightjust L of the normalRH route.</climb><climb
        extra="" grade="18" length="7m"
        name="Pumacillo (Pu)">A brilliant route up overhanging rock.  Although it looks fairly easy, the moves are challenging. Start right of the arete between Trembles and Tiger Wall.  Climb up (using the arete for balance) to the finger-crackarete.  Climb the initial 3m of Square Root.  Continue up the steep face above, keeping left of the block and arete.">A steep route which takes in the line just L of the RH arete.  Climb the initial 3m of Square Root.  Continue up the overhangingsteep face above, keeping byleft utilisingof the verticalblock crack as best you can - if you want to practice really shitty finger jams, then this is the climb for you!</climb><climband arete.</climb><climb
        extra="" grade="1" length="4m" name="Oblique Gully" new="false"
        extranumber="" grade="21" lengthstars="7m"
        namevalue="Pumacillo Variant">Start 2m rightThis is the major cleft separating the main part of the buttress arete.from the Climbsmaller upsection ato fewthe metresR. until it1967.">This is possiblethe tomajor movecleft rightseparating intothe Tigermain Wallpart Direct.of the Finishbuttress asfrom for that linethe smaller section to the R.  1967.</climb><climb
        extra="" grade="1710" length="6m5m" name="Victoria" new="false"
        namenumber="Tiger Wall Direct (D)">A good steep route up the middle of the wall.  Start on the block sticking out from the face.  Continue straight up (before the &quot;angle of the dangle&quot; gets the better of you)" stars=""
        value="Climb up the shattered hand-to-fist crack 5m R of Oblique Gully.  TR Baxter, 1967.">Climb up the shattered hand-to-fist crack 5m R of Oblique Gully.  TR Baxter, 1967.</climb><climb
        extra="" grade="14" length="6m4m" name="Una&amp;apos;s Lock"
        namenew="false"Tiger Wall (Ti)">Start towards the right of the wall at the small bush.  Follow the line of jugs and ledges diagonally leftwards across the face.  Watch out for the lichen, especially if you're silly enough to attempt a solo of such a meagre route.  1966.</climb><textnumber="" stars=""
        value="The thin crack-line 10m R of Absurd.  TR Baxter, Stranger, 1967.">The thin crack-line 10m R of Absurd.  TR Baxter, Stranger, 1967.</climb><climb
        classextra="text">After this route the cliff turns a corner to take on a northerly aspect.  The corner provides the best ascent or descent route in the vicinity, although it is also possible to walk down to the left of Palpitations.  There is no good access route between this corner and the other westerly end of Castle Wall, sixty metres to the right.</text><imagegrade="18" length="4m" name="Natham" new="false"
        number="" stars=""
        value="The lichen covered wall just R of Una's Lock.  Very thin.  TR John Moore, 1967.">The lichen covered wall just R of Una's Lock.  Very thin.  TR John Moore, 1967.</climb><text
        newclass="falseheading3" noPrintnew="false" number="null."
        srcnumber="RT_04_Airmailnull.PNG" width>Castle Rock </text><text class="500text">null</image><climb extranew="false"
        gradenumber="18null." length="4m"
        name="Gerry (G)">A reachy (read &quot;height dependant&quot;) problem up a wall of lichen.  Start 5m right of the corner and midway along the face.  Gain the horizontal then use this to reach some small holds high up and hence the top.</climb><climb>The most substantial piece of rock in the area is Castle Rock.  This extends for a good 50m and provides a good scattering of grades - from easy 8's to ego testing 25's.  Many of the routes ascend very steep rock, and in the Excalibur area the overhangs are testing for all.  The buttresses are directly approached from Shadow Buttress by following the path to the top of the hill and crossing to the other side of the hill where it overlooks Risdon Vale.</text><image
        extranew="false" gradenoPrint="15false" lengthnumber="6mnull."
        namesrc="Sheoke Traverse (S)">A good (albeit rather uncommitting) solo, but difficult to top-rope or lead.  Start just right of the platform at the base of the Gerry face.  Climb up 2m to the start of the horizontal fracture.  Follow this leftwards 3m, move up a little, then continue left to finish at the tree.  Good fun.</climb><climb
        extra="" grade="18" length="5m"
        name="The Neb (N)">Rumour has it this climb was originally known as Jackson's Nose.  Start just above the large tree and below a half-metre roof which sticks out from the otherwise nice looking face.  Ascend the wall to the roof, then climb directly up the &quot;nose&quot; to finish.  A classic line, though a little too strenuous to be enjoyable at the end of a dayRT_03_Castle.PNG" width="500">null</image><climb extra=""
        grade="16" length="7m" name="Palpitations (P)" new="false"
        number="" stars=""
        value="A direct route up less than vertical rock above the tree at the base of the buttress.  Start 2m L of Trembles.  Surmount the initial scab to a ledge.  Move slightly R then continue thinly up to the top.  Quite testing for the grade.  TR Reg Williams, 1967.">A direct route up less than vertical rock above the tree at the base of the buttress.  Start 2m L of Trembles.  Surmount the initial scab to a ledge.  Move slightly R then continue thinly up to the top.  Quite testing for the grade.  TR Reg Williams, 1967.</climb><climb
        extra="" grade="1612" length="7m" name="Trembles (T)" new="4mfalse"
        namenumber=""Belfry Direct (B)">A mind-blowing problem which starts in the back  stars=""
        value="One of the cave 5m right of The Neb.  Hang out from the cave to reach the first (creaking) holds just above the lip of the overhang.  Hang free on these for the photos, then continue up any way you pleasebest of the easy climbs in the area.  Climb the crack 3m L of the arete, finishing with some good (crux) moves on steep rock at the top.">One of the best of the easy climbs in the area.  Climb the crack 3m L of the arete, finishing with some good (crux) moves on steep rock at the top.</climb><climb
        extra="" grade="1513" length="4m"
       7m" name="DingbatsTrembles Arete (D)">Another good route.  Step out from Belfry onto the sharp right-hand edge of the arete/cave.  Climb up 3m then move right onto the face and the top.  TR Stranger, 1967TA)"
        new="false" number="" stars=""
        value="A direct route which takes in the arete to the immediate R of the normal route.">A direct route which takes in the arete to the immediate R of the normal route.</climb><climb
        extra="" grade="1318" length="7m" name="5mPumacillo (Pu)"
        namenew="false"Dingbats Directnumber="">A variant on the original which eliminates the fun initial moves.  Start below the bottomless corner.  Use the good jugs and acrobatics to gain the edge of the cave, then continue as for the original line.</climb><climb
        extra="" grade="23" length="5m"
        name="Airmail Direct (AD)">A classic climb involving a sequence of opening moves which are much more horizontal than vertical.  About 2m right of Dingbats Direct is a cave at ground level which is &quot;plastered&quot; with jugs on its roof.  This it.  Hang off the jugs to gain holds on  the vertical face.  Swing onto the face (crux) and continue up.</climb><text
        class="text">The cliff then turns the corner into Letterbox Wall and adopts a westerly aspect.</text><climbstars=""
        value="A brilliant route up overhanging rock.  Although it looks fairly easy, the moves are challenging. Start R of the arete between Trembles and Tiger Wall.  Climb up (using the arete for balance) to the finger-crack.  Continue up the overhanging face above by utilising the vertical crack as best you can - if you want to practice really shitty finger jams, then this is the climb for you!">A brilliant route up overhanging rock.  Although it looks fairly easy, the moves are challenging. Start R of the arete between Trembles and Tiger Wall.  Climb up (using the arete for balance) to the finger-crack.  Continue up the overhanging face above by utilising the vertical crack as best you can - if you want to practice really shitty finger jams, then this is the climb for you!</climb><climb
        extra="" grade="1521" length="5m"7m" name="Pumacillo Variant"
        new="false" namenumber=""Airmail (A)">Start at the foot of the left extremity stars=""
        value="Start 2m right of the Letterbox wallarete.  Under-clingClimb outup lefta onfew themetres flakeuntil toit the arete between the two faces.  Follow the exposed front of this to the top (a metre or so right of Dingbats).  1966is possible to move R into Tiger Wall Direct.  Finish as for that line.">Start 2m right of the arete.  Climb up a few metres until it is possible to move R into Tiger Wall Direct.  Finish as for that line.</climb><climb
        extra="" grade="1617" length="4m6m"
        name="DeadTiger Wall LetterDirect (DLD)">Start>A midwaygood betweensteep theroute corner andup the treemiddle toof the rightwall.  Ascend the faceStart on small holds.</climb><climb
        the block sticking out from the face.  Continue straight up (before the &quot;angle of the dangle&quot; gets the better of you).</climb><climb
        extra="" grade="1014" length="6m" name="4mTiger Wall (Ti)"
        namenew="Letterboxfalse">They don't come easier than this!  Start at the large tree.  Climb directly up number="" stars=""
        value="Start towards the R of the wall pastat athe numbersmall ofbush. pockets then followFollow the stairwayline of holdsjugs toand the top.</climb><climb
        extra="" grade="4" length="3m"
        name="Twilight Climb">The obvious corner to the right of Letterbox.  The climb is very seldom done in its own right, but is often used as an ascent/descent route for experienced climbers.  1967.</climb><climb
        extra="" grade="16" length="8m"
        name="Needle">This climb (also known as Side Salad) starts 8m right of the corner in the cave (which provides excellent amplification for ghetto-blasters if your feel like invading the serenity of the experience).  Climb the right-hand edge of the cave to its top.  Move up a bit, then follow the diagonal line of weakness upwards right.  1967.</climb><climbledges diagonally leftwards across the face.  Watch out for the lichen, especially if you're silly enough to attempt a solo of such a meagre route.  1966.">Start towards the R of the wall at the small bush.  Follow the line of jugs and ledges diagonally leftwards across the face.  Watch out for the lichen, especially if you're silly enough to attempt a solo of such a meagre route.  1966.</climb><text
        class="text">After this route the cliff turns a corner to take on a northerly aspect.  The corner provides the best ascent or descent route in the vicinity, although it is also possible to walk down to the left of Palpitations.  There is no good access route between this corner and the other westerly end of Castle Wall, sixty metres to the right.</text><image
        extranew="false" gradenoPrint="3false" lengthnumber="8mnull."
        name="Teddy Bear Traverse">Start as for the Needle.  After leaving the cave, traverse right into the obvious crack of Excalibur Direct.  Finish up this.  1967src="RT_04_Airmail.PNG" width="500">null</image><climb extra=""
        grade="18" length="4m"
        name="Gerry (G)">A reachy (read &quot;height dependant&quot;) problem up a wall of lichen.  Start 5m right of the corner and midway along the face.  Gain the horizontal then use this to reach some small holds high up and hence the top.</climb><climb
        extra="" grade="1215" length="6m" name="8mSheoke Traverse (S)"
        namenew="Excaliburfalse">A good route, but the direct version is recommended.  Start on the extreme right of the cave at ground level.  Traverse right 2m into the striking crack, then follow the jugs to the top.  Although the jugs are plentiful and huge, the slight overhang makes the crack reasonably strenuous if time is spent exploring its features.</climb><climb
        extra="" grade="20" length="8m"
        name="Vegies Wall">A classic face route up steep rock.  Start below the scab of rock, midway between the cave and Excalibur.  Ascend the scab, then continue straight up on increasingly thin holds.</climb><imagenumber="" stars=""
        value="A good (albeit rather uncommitting) solo, but difficult to top-rope or lead.  Start just R of the platform at the base of the Gerry face.  Climb up 2m to the start of the horizontal fracture.  Follow this leftwards 3m, move up a little, then continue L to finish at the tree.  Good fun.">A good (albeit rather uncommitting) solo, but difficult to top-rope or lead.  Start just R of the platform at the base of the Gerry face.  Climb up 2m to the start of the horizontal fracture.  Follow this leftwards 3m, move up a little, then continue L to finish at the tree.  Good fun.</climb><climb
        newextra="false" noPrintgrade="false18" numberlength="null." src="RT_05_Seems.PNG"
        width="500">null</image><climb extra="" grade="17" length="8m"
        name="Excalibur Direct (ED)"
        stars=" ** ">Without doubt this is &quot;the way&quot; to do Excalibur.  Start directly below the fist crack.  Surmount the bottomless corner, then follow the crack to the top.  Strenuous for the grade.  TR Reg Williams, 19675m"
        name="The Neb (N)">Rumour has it this climb was originally known as Jackson's Nose.  Start just above the large tree and below a half-metre roof which sticks out from the otherwise nice looking face.  Ascend the wall to the roof, then climb directly up the &quot;nose&quot; to finish.  A classic line, though a little too strenuous to be enjoyable at the end of a day.</climb><climb
        extra="" grade="16" length="8m" name="Lancelot (L)4m"
        starsname="Belfry *Direct (B)">A good fun route, especially for spectators watching their comrades peel off the lower section and pendu-plummeting into the tree.  Start 2m right of Excalibur Direct, at the back of, and under, the roof.  Climb the hand-crack in the corner, then traverse out left along the horizontal.  Reach for the lower sections of the Excalibur crack, then move back right over the roof to follow the jugs on the face above mind-blowing problem which starts in the back of the cave 5m right of The Neb.  Hang out from the cave to reach the first (creaking) holds just above the lip of the overhang.  Hang free on these for the photos, then continue up any way you please.</climb><climb
        extra="" grade="M115" length="8m4m" name="DamoclesDingbats (D)" new="false"
        number="" stars=""
        starsvalue="">AAnother delightfulgood route. over aStep seriesout offrom smallBelfry roofsonto abovethe thesharp largeRH caveedge toof the rightarete/cave. of Excalibur.  Start from Climb up 3m then move R onto the topface ofand the fallentop. block 5mTR right of Excalibur Direct (and where &quot;calligraphy&quot; on the block indicates the love locals have for the rock-climbing fraternity).  Commence with a RURP in a thin vertical crack at arms length, then peg up the overhangs using convenient cracks.  FA J.Moore, R.WilliamsStranger, 1967.">Another good route.  Step out from Belfry onto the sharp RH edge of the arete/cave.  Climb up 3m then move R onto the face and the top.  TR Stranger, 1967.</climb><climb
        extra="" grade="2713" length="8m5m"
        name="Merlin the Magician">Climbs the stepped roof left of Seams.  Grant Rowbottom (TR) Oct 96Dingbats Direct">A variant on the original which eliminates the fun initial moves.  Start below the bottomless corner.  Use the good jugs and acrobatics to gain the edge of the cave, then continue as for the original line.</climb><climb
        extra="" grade="2523" length="8m" name="Seams Direct (SD)5m"
        starsname="Airmail *Direct (AD)">A greatclassic route.climb involving Starta insequence theof middleopening ofmoves thewhich 4mare longmuch block.more horizontal Reachthan vertical. up forAbout a2m coupleright of goodDingbats handDirect holdsis thena swingcave yourat feetground ontolevel thewhich rock.  Move upwards to the horizontal crack below the first roof.  Continue on with a slight rightwards trend past the second roof, the third roof, and so on.  Join Seams just below the top and finish as for that route.</climb><climbis &quot;plastered&quot; with jugs on its roof.  This it.  Hang off the jugs to gain holds on  the vertical face.  Swing onto the face (crux) and continue up.</climb><text
        extraclass="text">The grade="20" length="8m"
        name="Funky Chicken (FC)">A classic which is more horizontal then vertical - not due of a overhangs, but because it involves 8m of height gain and a 10m traverse.  Start in the corner as for Slavery.  Climb up 3m, then move left across to a good hand ledge and foot smears.  Keep traversing into and through the corner (crux), to finish directly just past the corner.  The climb is difficult to top-rope (and even more difficult to lead) but worth the effort.  Why bother with bungee-jumping when you have this!</climb><climb
        cliff then turns the corner into Letterbox Wall and adopts a westerly aspect.</text><climb
        extra="" grade="15" length="5m" name="Airmail (A)" new="false"
        number="" stars=""
        value="Start at the foot of the left extremity of the Letterbox wall.  Under-cling out L on the flake to the arete between the two faces.  Follow the exposed front of this to the top (a metre or so right of Dingbats).  1966.">Start at the foot of the left extremity of the Letterbox wall.  Under-cling out L on the flake to the arete between the two faces.  Follow the exposed front of this to the top (a metre or so right of Dingbats).  1966.</climb><climb
        extra="" grade="1516" length="8m"
       4m" name="CaponDead Letter (CDL)">A
 rather easy but nonetheless inspiring climb which again involves a huge traverse.  The climb is identical to Funky Chicken but executes the traverse at a higher level (the feet are where the hands were previously).  Another classic not to be missednew="false" number="" stars=""
        value="Start midway between the corner and the tree to the R.  Ascend the face on small holds.">Start midway between the corner and the tree to the R.  Ascend the face on small holds.</climb><climb
        extra="" grade="1710" length="8m4m"
        name="Seams (S)">A rather classy little climb up steep rock.  Climb the first few metres of Slavery.  Move left and upwards 2mLetterbox">They don't come easier than this!  Start at the large tree.  Climb directly up the wall past a seriesnumber of flakes and pockets untilthen belowfollow the finalstairway roof.of holds Moveto directly over this (crux) to finishthe top.</climb><climb
        extra="" grade="134" length="6m3m"
        name="SlaveryTwilight (SL)Climb">A>The goodobvious beginnerscorner firstto daythe routeright whichof is steepLetterbox.  StartThe inclimb theis corner,very aboutseldom 7mdone rightin ofits Excalibur.own right, Climbbut directlyis tooften anused under-cling flake.  Move left slightly, then straight up to the topas an ascent/descent route for experienced climbers.  1967.</climb><climb
        extra="" grade="1516" length="8m" name="Needle" new="4mfalse"
        namenumber=""Flying (F)">This climb is rather out of character with the rest of the climbs on the buttress.  This short &quot;one move wonder&quot; is not worth bothering with given the abundance of quality routes in the area.  Start in the middle of the face immediately right of the Slavery corner.  Climb up to a ledge at half height, then up thinly to an under-cling finish.</climb><text
        class="heading3" new="false"
        number="null.">The Managerie</text><text
        class="text">The isolated boulder situated 100m below Castle Walls is known as The Menagerie.  There are a couple of boulder problems on it.</text><text stars=""
        value="This climb (also known as Side Salad) starts 8m right of the corner in the cave (which provides excellent amplification for ghetto-blasters if your feel like invading the serenity of the experience).  Climb the RH edge of the cave to its top.  Move up a bit, then follow the diagonal line of weakness upwards R.  1967.">This climb (also known as Side Salad) starts 8m right of the corner in the cave (which provides excellent amplification for ghetto-blasters if your feel like invading the serenity of the experience).  Climb the RH edge of the cave to its top.  Move up a bit, then follow the diagonal line of weakness upwards R.  1967.</climb><climb
        classextra="heading3" newgrade="false3"
 length="8m" name="Teddy Bear Traverse"
        new="false" number="null.">Lone Tower</text><text stars=""
        classvalue="text">About 200m west from Castle Walls is Lone Tower.  It can also be approached from Shadow Buttress.  The buttress is characterised by a sloping tree at its base and the half-metre overlap which runs across its length.</text><image
        new="false" noPrint="false" number="null."Start as for the Needle.  After leaving the cave, traverse R into the obvious crack of Excalibur Direct.  Finish up this.  1967.">Start as for the Needle.  After leaving the cave, traverse R into the obvious crack of Excalibur Direct.  Finish up this.  1967.</climb><climb
        srcextra="RT_06_Lone_Tower.PNG" widthgrade="50012">null</image><climb
        extra length="8m" gradename="12Excalibur" lengthnew="6mfalse"
        namenumber="" stars="Pythagoras">Behind
  the tower and to its left is a shortvalue="A good route, gentlybut slopingthe walldirect whichversion is brokenrecommended. by aStart ledgeon atthe halfextreme height.R of Climbthe it.cave at Christie,ground 1967level.</climb><climb
  Traverse R 2m into the  extra="" grade="9" length="4m"
        name="Archimedes (A)">To the left of the main face is a short, clay covered gully.  Climb the broken crack above this.  Douglas, 1967.</climb><climb
        extra="" grade="14" length="7m"
        name="Principle (P)">Start on the left-hand edge of the face 1m right of the arete.  Climb up to the sloping ledge, then follow the curving crack to the top.  TR Terry, 1967striking crack, then follow the jugs to the top.  Although the jugs are plentiful and huge, the slight overhang makes the crack reasonably strenuous if time is spent exploring its features.">A good route, but the direct version is recommended.  Start on the extreme R of the cave at ground level.  Traverse R 2m into the striking crack, then follow the jugs to the top.  Although the jugs are plentiful and huge, the slight overhang makes the crack reasonably strenuous if time is spent exploring its features.</climb><climb
        extra="" grade="1820" length="7m8m"
        name="Orient Express (O)Vegies Wall">A classic difficultface route up steep rock.  Start below the middlescab of rock, midway between the face.cave and ClimbExcalibur. up toAscend the ledgescab, then followcontinue thestraight steepup crackon toincreasingly thethin overlapholds.</climb><image
  Trend left past this then straight on to the top.</climb><climb
new="false" noPrint="false" number="null." src="RT_05_Seems.PNG"
        width="500">null</image><climb extra="" grade="1617" length="7m8m"
        name="EurekaExcalibur Direct (EED)">Towards
 the right-hand end of the face and just left of the treestars=" ** ">Without doubt this is a series of thin, broken cracks&quot;the way&quot; to do Excalibur.  MoveStart updirectly these andbelow the facefist tocrack. the overlap.Surmount the Surmountbottomless thiscorner, then continuefollow up the crack onto the top. left Strenuous tofor the topgrade.  TR Reg Williams, 1967.</climb><textclimb><climb
        class="heading3extra="" grade="16" length="8m" name="Lancelot (L)" new="false"
        number="null.">The Bastille</text><text stars="*"
        classvalue="text">AboutA 300mgood rightfun ofroute, Loneespecially Towerfor andspectators 100mwatching lefttheir ofcomrades Shadowpeel Buttressoff isthe Thelower Bastille.section and Thispendu-plummeting smallinto facethe hastree. a fewStart decent2m routesR onof itExcalibur which are worth trying, though they hardly warrant &quot;classic&quot; status.  Access to the buttress is easiest by walking around the hill from Shadow Buttress.</text><image
        new="false" noPrint="false" number="null."
        src="RT_07_Bastille.PNG" width="500">null</image><climb extra=""
        grade="15" length="4m"
        name="Creep">Start on the extreme left of the buttress, on the corner of the main face.  Climb the initial blocky section, then ascend the steep face above.  Surmounting the top is the crux of the climb.</climb><climb
        extra="" grade="16" length="7m"
        name="Pullman (P)">Start 2m left of Drool.  Climb straight up the broken face, and again experience the pleasure of mounting the topDirect, at the back of, and under, the roof.  Climb the hand-crack in the corner, then traverse out L along the horizontal.  Reach for the lower sections of the Excalibur crack, then move back R over the roof to follow the jugs on the face above.">A good fun route, especially for spectators watching their comrades peel off the lower section and pendu-plummeting into the tree.  Start 2m R of Excalibur Direct, at the back of, and under, the roof.  Climb the hand-crack in the corner, then traverse out L along the horizontal.  Reach for the lower sections of the Excalibur crack, then move back R over the roof to follow the jugs on the face above.</climb><climb
        extra="" grade="18M1" length="8m" name="Damocles" new="7mfalse"
        namenumber=""Drool (D)">A good route up steep rock.  Start directly below the thin crack bisecting the upper half of the face.  Move easily up to the crack, then continue up with either finêssé and balance or a dyno.</climb><climb
        extra="" grade="12" length="7m"
        name="Bastille Crack (B)">Climb up to the start of the leftwards trending crack on the extreme right of the face.  Continue up this to the top.  1967.</climb><text
        class="heading3" new="false"
        number="null.">Shadow Buttress</text><text
        class="text">The other beaut little buttress of the crag is Shadow Buttress.  This buttress is the first one approached when walking up from the cars and contains several fine lines - Rudolf, Parasite, Donner, Blitzen and Precision Wall to name a few.  It also offers relief from the sun on hot summer days.</text><image
        new="false" noPrint="false" number="null. stars=""
        value="A delightful route over a series of small roofs above the large cave to the R of Excalibur.  Start from the top of the fallen block 5m R of Excalibur Direct (and where &quot;calligraphy&quot; on the block indicates the love locals have for the rock-climbing fraternity).  Commence with a RURP in a thin vertical crack at arms length, then peg up the overhangs using convenient cracks.  FA J.Moore, R.Williams, 1967.">A delightful route over a series of small roofs above the large cave to the R of Excalibur.  Start from the top of the fallen block 5m R of Excalibur Direct (and where &quot;calligraphy&quot; on the block indicates the love locals have for the rock-climbing fraternity).  Commence with a RURP in a thin vertical crack at arms length, then peg up the overhangs using convenient cracks.  FA J.Moore, R.Williams, 1967.</climb><climb
        extra="" grade="27" length="8m" name="Merlin the Magician"
        srcnew="RT_08_Shadow_A.PNGfalse" widthnumber="500">null</image><climb extrastars=""
        gradevalue="8" length="5m"
        name="Matterhorn (M)">Climb the easy angled face on the left side of the East Wall.  The hardest and steepest moves are found at the topClimbs the stepped roof L of Seams.  Grant Rowbottom (TR) Oct 96.">Climbs the stepped roof L of Seams.  Grant Rowbottom (TR) Oct 96.</climb><climb
        extra="" grade="1725" length="8m" name="5mSeams Direct (SD)"
        namenew="false"East Wall (E)">Quite a tough littlenumber="" stars="*"
        value="A great route.  ClimbStart directly upin the frontmiddle of the first4m significantlong buttressblock. on theReach left.up for Oct 84.</climb><climb
        extra="" grade="11" length="3m"
        name="Thunderbolt (T)">Worthless.  Follow the hand-crack up the face.  The only difficulty comes in trying to surmount the dirty top.</climb><climb
        extra="" grade="5" length="4m"
        name="Scholtz's Chimney (S)">This climb has as much going for it as its neighbour to the left.  Ascend the chimney, moving out from its depths to pass the block at the top.</climb><climb
        extra="" grade="17" length="4m"
        name="Bastinado (B)">Start awkwardly on the left of the chimney.  Move right across the chimney and ascend the face 1m right of the chimney on small holds.  1967a couple of good hand holds then swing your feet onto the rock.  Move upwards to the horizontal crack below the first roof.  Continue on with a slight rightwards trend past the second roof, the third roof, and so on.  Join Seams just below the top and finish as for that route.">A great route.  Start in the middle of the 4m long block.  Reach up for a couple of good hand holds then swing your feet onto the rock.  Move upwards to the horizontal crack below the first roof.  Continue on with a slight rightwards trend past the second roof, the third roof, and so on.  Join Seams just below the top and finish as for that route.</climb><climb
        extra="" grade="1620" length="4m"
       8m" name="Kennedy'sFunky WallChicken (KFC)">Climb the face and thin discontinuous cracks 3m right of the chimney.</climb><climb
        extranew="false" gradenumber="15" lengthstars="4m"
        namevalue="ClingA toclassic thewhich Crest">Startis belowmore thehorizontal crestthen avertical few- metresnot leftdue of Threada belayoverhangs, Cracks.but because Climbit upinvolves to8m theof cornerheight crack,gain thenand followa this to the top10m traverse.  PassStart directly overin the blockcorner atas thefor topSlavery.  Climb TRup Douglas3m, 1967.</climb><climb
        extra="" grade="16" length="5m"
        name="Jingle (J)">Climb directly up the wall to the immediate left of Thread belay Cracks then move L across to a good hand ledge and foot smears.  Keep traversing into and through the corner (crux), to finish directly just past the corner.  The climbingclimb is thindifficult butto not unduly steep.</climb><climb
        extra="" grade="11" length="6m"
        name="Thread belay Cracks (Tc)">Climb up the broken cracks to the immediate left of Rudolf.  Finish up the hand-crack through the overhang.  1967.</climb><climb
        extra="" grade="18" length="6m"
        name="Rudolf Variant">Start 1m left of the normal route.  Ascend the even more overhanging face, with difficulties again at the level of the nose.  Strenuous and sustained climbing.top-rope (and even more difficult to lead) but worth the effort.  Why bother with bungee-jumping when you have this!">A classic which is more horizontal then vertical - not due of a overhangs, but because it involves 8m of height gain and a 10m traverse.  Start in the corner as for Slavery.  Climb up 3m, then move L across to a good hand ledge and foot smears.  Keep traversing into and through the corner (crux), to finish directly just past the corner.  The climb is difficult to top-rope (and even more difficult to lead) but worth the effort.  Why bother with bungee-jumping when you have this!</climb><climb
        extra="" grade="1815" length="6m8m"
        name="RudolfCapon (RC)">Probably &quot;the&quot; classic of the buttress.  Follow the line of jugs up the overhanging line to the loose flake.  Move straight up past this (crux) then on to the top.  TR Reg Williams, 1967>A rather easy but nonetheless inspiring climb which again involves a huge traverse.  The climb is identical to Funky Chicken but executes the traverse at a higher level (the feet are where the hands were previously).  Another classic not to be missed.</climb><climb
        extra="" grade="2017" length="8m" name="Seams (S)" new="6mfalse"
        namenumber="Afterglow">Start 4mstars=""
 right of Rudolf toward the back of the chimney.  Climb up for 2m, then move diagonally leftwards across the red rock to finish a couple of metres right of Rudolf.</climb><climb
        extra="" grade="4" length="8m"
        name="Beginners Chimney (BC)">What a breeze!value="A rather classy little climb up steep rock.  Climb the first few metres of Slavery.  Move L and upwards 2m past a series of flakes and pockets until below the final roof.  Move directly over this (crux) to finish.">A rather classy little climb up steep rock.  Climb the obviousfirst chimneyfew themetres onlyof difficultySlavery. is decidingMove whichL holdsand to use!</climb><text
        class="text">A good traverse can be made leftwards from the Beginner's Chimney.  The first moves across to Rudolf are fairly technical, but not committing.  Continue past Jingle and the like, finishing somewhere near the East Wall.</text><imageupwards 2m past a series of flakes and pockets until below the final roof.  Move directly over this (crux) to finish.</climb><climb
        extra="" grade="13" length="6m" name="Slavery (SL)" new="false"
        newnumber="false" noPrint="false" numberstars="null."
        src="RT_09_Shadow_B.PNG" width="500">null</image><climb extra=""value="A good beginners first day route which is steep.  Start in the corner, about 7m right of Excalibur.  Climb directly to an under-cling flake.  Move L slightly, then straight up to the top.">A good beginners first day route which is steep.  Start in the corner, about 7m right of Excalibur.  Climb directly to an under-cling flake.  Move L slightly, then straight up to the top.</climb><climb
        extra="" grade="15" length="4m" name="Flying (F)" new="false"
        number="" stars=""
        value="This climb is rather out of character with the rest of the climbs on the buttress, more of a boulder problem.  Start in the middle of the face immediately right of the Slavery corner.  Climb up to a ledge at half height, then up thinly to an under-cling finish.">This climb is rather out of character with the rest of the climbs on the buttress, more of a boulder problem.  Start in the middle of the face immediately right of the Slavery corner.  Climb up to a ledge at half height, then up thinly to an under-cling finish.</climb><text
        class="heading3" new="false"
        number="null.">The Managerie</text><text
        class="text">The isolated boulder situated 100m below Castle Walls is known as The Menagerie.  There are a couple of boulder problems on it.</text><text
        class="heading3" new="false"
        number="null.">Lone Tower</text><text
        class="text">About 200m west from Castle Walls is Lone Tower.  It can also be approached from Shadow Buttress.  The buttress is characterised by a sloping tree at its base and the half-metre overlap which runs across its length.</text><image
        new="false" noPrint="false" number="null."
        src="RT_06_Lone_Tower.PNG" width="500">null</image><climb
        extra="" grade="12" length="6m" name="Pythagoras" new="false"
        number="" stars=""
        value="Behind the tower and to it's L is a short, gently sloping wall which is broken by a ledge at half height.  Climb it.  Christie, 1967.">Behind the tower and to it's L is a short, gently sloping wall which is broken by a ledge at half height.  Climb it.  Christie, 1967.</climb><climb
        extra="" grade="9" length="4m" name="Archimedes (A)" new="false"
        number="" stars=""
        value="To the L of the main face is a short, clay covered gully.  Climb the broken crack above this.  Douglas, 1967.">To the L of the main face is a short, clay covered gully.  Climb the broken crack above this.  Douglas, 1967.</climb><climb
        extra="" grade="14" length="7m" name="Principle (P)" new="false"
        number="" stars=""
        value="Start on the LH edge of the face 1m R of the arete.  Climb up to the sloping ledge, then follow the curving crack to the top.  TR Terry, 1967.">Start on the LH edge of the face 1m R of the arete.  Climb up to the sloping ledge, then follow the curving crack to the top.  TR Terry, 1967.</climb><climb
        extra="" grade="18" length="7m" name="Orient Express (O)"
        new="false" number="" stars=""
        value="A difficult route up the middle of the face.  Climb up to the ledge, then follow the steep crack to the overlap.  Trend L past this then straight on to the top.">A difficult route up the middle of the face.  Climb up to the ledge, then follow the steep crack to the overlap.  Trend L past this then straight on to the top.</climb><climb
        extra="" grade="16" length="7m" name="Eureka (E)" new="false"
        number="" stars=""
        value="Towards the RH end of the face and just L of the tree is a series of thin, broken cracks.  Move up these and the face to the overlap.  Surmount this, then continue up the crack on the L to the top.  1967.">Towards the RH end of the face and just L of the tree is a series of thin, broken cracks.  Move up these and the face to the overlap.  Surmount this, then continue up the crack on the L to the top.  1967.</climb><text
        class="heading3" new="false"
        number="null.">The Bastille</text><text class="text" new="false"
        value="About 300m R of Lone Tower and 100m L of Shadow Buttress is The Bastille.  This small face has a few decent routes on it which are worth trying, though they hardly warrant &quot;classic&quot; status.  Access to the buttress is easiest by walking around the hill from Shadow Buttress.">About 300m R of Lone Tower and 100m L of Shadow Buttress is The Bastille.  This small face has a few decent routes on it which are worth trying, though they hardly warrant &quot;classic&quot; status.  Access to the buttress is easiest by walking around the hill from Shadow Buttress.</text><image
        new="false" noPrint="false" number="null."
        src="RT_07_Bastille.PNG" width="500">null</image><climb extra=""
        grade="15" length="4m" name="Creep" new="false" number=""
        stars=""
        value="Start on the extreme L of the buttress, on the corner of the main face.  Climb the initial blocky section, then ascend the steep face above.  Surmounting the top is the crux of the climb.">Start on the extreme L of the buttress, on the corner of the main face.  Climb the initial blocky section, then ascend the steep face above.  Surmounting the top is the crux of the climb.</climb><climb
        extra="" grade="16" length="7m" name="Pullman (P)" new="false"
        number="" stars=""
        value="Start 2m L of Drool.  Climb straight up the broken face, and again experience the pleasure of mounting the top.">Start 2m L of Drool.  Climb straight up the broken face, and again experience the pleasure of mounting the top.</climb><climb
        extra="" grade="18" length="7m"
        name="Drool (D)">A good route up steep rock.  Start directly below the thin crack bisecting the upper half of the face.  Move easily up to the crack, then continue up with either finêssé and balance or a dyno.</climb><climb
        extra="" grade="12" length="7m" name="Bastille Crack (B)"
        new="false" number="" stars=""
        value="Climb up to the start of the leftwards trending crack on the extreme R of the face.  Continue up this to the top.  1967.">Climb up to the start of the leftwards trending crack on the extreme R of the face.  Continue up this to the top.  1967.</climb><text
        class="heading3" new="false"
        number="null.">Shadow Buttress</text><text
        class="text">The other beaut little buttress of the crag is Shadow Buttress.  This buttress is the first one approached when walking up from the cars and contains several fine lines - Rudolf, Parasite, Donner, Blitzen and Precision Wall to name a few.  It also offers relief from the sun on hot summer days.</text><image
        new="false" noPrint="false" number="null."
        src="RT_08_Shadow_A.PNG" width="500">null</image><climb extra=""
        grade="8" length="5m" name="Matterhorn (M)" new="false"
        number="" stars=""
        value="Climb the easy angled face on the L side of the East Wall.  The hardest and steepest moves are found at the top.">Climb the easy angled face on the L side of the East Wall.  The hardest and steepest moves are found at the top.</climb><climb
        extra="" grade="17" length="5m" name="East Wall (E)" new="false"
        number="" stars=""
        value="Quite a tough little route.  Climb directly up the front of the first significant buttress on the L.  Oct 84.">Quite a tough little route.  Climb directly up the front of the first significant buttress on the L.  Oct 84.</climb><climb
        extra="" grade="11" length="3m"
        name="Thunderbolt (T)">Worthless.  Follow the hand-crack up the face.  The only difficulty comes in trying to surmount the dirty top.</climb><climb
        extra="" grade="5" length="4m"
        name="Scholtz&amp;apos;s Chimney (S)" new="false" number=""
        stars=""
        value="This climb has as much going for it as its neighbour to the L.  Ascend the chimney, moving out from its depths to pass the block at the top.">This climb has as much going for it as its neighbour to the L.  Ascend the chimney, moving out from its depths to pass the block at the top.</climb><climb
        extra="" grade="17" length="4m" name="Bastinado (B)" new="false"
        number="" stars=""
        value="Start awkwardly on the L of the chimney.  Move R across the chimney and ascend the face 1m R of the chimney on small holds.  1967.">Start awkwardly on the L of the chimney.  Move R across the chimney and ascend the face 1m R of the chimney on small holds.  1967.</climb><climb
        extra="" grade="16" length="4m"
        name="Kennedy&amp;apos;s Wall (K)" new="false" number=""
        stars=""
        value="Climb the face and thin discontinuous cracks 3m R of the chimney.">Climb the face and thin discontinuous cracks 3m R of the chimney.</climb><climb
        extra="" grade="15" length="4m" name="Cling to the Crest"
        new="false" number="" stars=""
        value="Start below the crest a few metres L of Thread belay Cracks.  Climb up to the corner crack, then follow this to the top.  Pass directly over the block at the top.  TR Douglas, 1967.">Start below the crest a few metres L of Thread belay Cracks.  Climb up to the corner crack, then follow this to the top.  Pass directly over the block at the top.  TR Douglas, 1967.</climb><climb
        extra="" grade="16" length="5m" name="Jingle (J)" new="false"
        number="" stars=""
        value="Climb directly up the wall to the immediate L of Thread belay Cracks.  The climbing is thin but not unduly steep.">Climb directly up the wall to the immediate L of Thread belay Cracks.  The climbing is thin but not unduly steep.</climb><climb
        extra="" grade="11" length="6m" name="Thread belay Cracks (Tc)"
        new="false" number="" stars=""
        value="Climb up the broken cracks to the immediate L of Rudolf.  Finish up the hand-crack through the overhang.  1967.">Climb up the broken cracks to the immediate L of Rudolf.  Finish up the hand-crack through the overhang.  1967.</climb><climb
        extra="" grade="18" length="6m" name="Rudolf Variant"
        new="false" number="" stars=""
        value="Start 1m L of the normal route.  Ascend the even more overhanging face, with difficulties again at the level of the nose.  Strenuous and sustained climbing.">Start 1m L of the normal route.  Ascend the even more overhanging face, with difficulties again at the level of the nose.  Strenuous and sustained climbing.</climb><climb
        extra="" grade="18" length="6m"
        name="Rudolf (R)">Probably &quot;the&quot; classic of the buttress.  Follow the line of jugs up the overhanging line to the loose flake.  Move straight up past this (crux) then on to the top.  TR Reg Williams, 1967.</climb><climb
        extra="" grade="20" length="6m" name="Afterglow" new="false"
        number="" stars=""
        value="Start 4m R of Rudolf toward the back of the chimney.  Climb up for 2m, then move diagonally leftwards across the red rock to finish a couple of metres R of Rudolf.">Start 4m R of Rudolf toward the back of the chimney.  Climb up for 2m, then move diagonally leftwards across the red rock to finish a couple of metres R of Rudolf.</climb><climb
        extra="" grade="4" length="8m"
        name="Beginners Chimney (BC)">What a breeze!  Climb the obvious chimney the only difficulty is deciding which holds to use!</climb><text
        class="text">A good traverse can be made leftwards from the Beginner's Chimney.  The first moves across to Rudolf are fairly technical, but not committing.  Continue past Jingle and the like, finishing somewhere near the East Wall.</text><image
        new="false" noPrint="false" number="null."
        src="RT_09_Shadow_B.PNG" width="500">null</image><climb extra=""
        grade="12" length="8m" name="Santa" new="false" number=""
        stars=""
        value="Climb the R wall of the chimney, about 2m left of Parasite.  Good value.">Climb the R wall of the chimney, about 2m left of Parasite.  Good value.</climb><climb
        extra="" grade="14" length="8m"
        name="Parasite (P)">A very nice route and, surprisingly, quite leadable.  Start below the large flake.  Follow this up to the vertical crack, then follow this to the top.  Protection is thin but adequate.  TR Mike Douglas, 1966.</climb><climb
        extra="" grade="19" length="8m"
        name="Donner (D)">Climb the face between Parasite and Blitzen without deviating into either.  Very contrived, but nonetheless, when the rope is already set-up for one of the other climbs...why not?</climb><climb
        extra="" grade="16" length="8m" name="Blitzen (B)" new="false"
        number="" stars=""
        value="A very nice problem.  Holds are a bit sparse, but if you search them out they're always where needed.  Climb up the face past the block and to the L of the arete.  Pass the overhang at the top on it's L.">A very nice problem.  Holds are a bit sparse, but if you search them out they're always where needed.  Climb up the face past the block and to the L of the arete.  Pass the overhang at the top on it's L.</climb><climb
        extra="" grade="20" length="8m"
        name="Collision (C)">This climb, originally graded 17, has now become more difficult due to some holds falling off.  Climb directly up to the half metre overhang.  Climb straight over it (crux) to finish directly.</climb><climb
        extra="" grade="1215" length="8m"
        name="SantaPrecision Wall (Pw)">Climb the right wall offace midway between Collision and the chimney,crack. about 2mSustained leftfor ofits Parasitelength.  Another classic route. Good value1966.</climb><climb
        extra="" grade="1413" length="8m" name="Precision Wall Variant"
        name="Parasite (P)">A very nice route and, surprisingly, quite leadable.  Start below the large flake.  Follow this up to the vertical crack, then follow this to the top.  Protection is thin but adequate.  TR Mike Douglas, 1966new="false" number="" stars=""
        value="Climb the crack to the R of the normal route.  Beginners often get into some most unusual positions near the top.">Climb the crack to the R of the normal route.  Beginners often get into some most unusual positions near the top.</climb><climb
        extra="" grade="19" length="8m"
       7m" name="Donner (D)">Climb the face between Parasite and Blitzen without deviating into either.  Very contrived, but nonetheless, when the rope is already set-up for one of the other climbs...why not?</climb><climbPrecision Face"
        extranew="false" gradenumber="16" lengthstars="8m"
        namevalue="Blitzen (B)">A very nice problem.  Holds are a bit sparse, but if you search them out they're always where needed.  Climb up the face past the block and to the left of the arete.  Pass the overhangAscend the slab between the crack and the deep cleft on the RH side of the wall.  Fairly technical, albeit a bit dirty at the top.">Ascend the slab between the crack and the deep cleft on the RH side of the wall.  Fairly technical, albeit a bit dirty at the top on its left.</climb><climb
        extra="" grade="2014" length="8m"
        7m" name="CollisionFunicular Cracks (CF)">This
  climb, originally graded 17, has now become more difficult due to some holds falling off.  Climb directly up to the half metre overhang.  Climb straight over it (crux) to finish directly.</climb><climb
        extra="" grade="15" length="8m"
        name="Precision Wall (Pw)">Climb the face midway between Collision and the crack.  Sustained for its length.  Another classic route.  1966new="false" number="" stars=""
        value="Climb the crack 1m L of the tree.  After reaching the ledge near the top, continue on to finish if you're good enough.">Climb the crack 1m L of the tree.  After reaching the ledge near the top, continue on to finish if you're good enough.</climb><climb
        extra="" grade="1319" length="8m"
       7m" name="PrecisionGolliwog Wall" Variant">Climb the crack to the right of the normal route.  Beginners often get into some most unusual positions near the top.</climb><climb
        extra="" grade="19" length="7m"
        name="Precision Face">Ascend the slab between the crack and the deep cleft on the right-hand side of the wall.  Fairly technical, albeit a bit dirty at the top.</climb><climbnew="false"
        number="" stars=""
        value="Ascend the wall to the R of the Funicular Cracks and 1m R of the tree.  1967.">Ascend the wall to the R of the Funicular Cracks and 1m R of the tree.  1967.</climb><text
        extraclass="heading3" gradenew="14" length="7mfalse"
        namenumber="null."Funicular>Omega Cracks (F)">Climb the crack 1m left of the tree.  After reaching the ledge near the top, continue on to finish if you're good enough.</climb><climb
        extra="" grade="19" length="7m"
        name="Golliwog Wall">Ascend the wall to the right of the Funicular Cracks and 1m right of the tree.  1967.</climb><text
        class="heading3" new="false"
        number="null.">Omega Rocks</text><text
        class="textRocks</text><text class="text" new="false"
        value="The Omega Rocks are located to the R of Shadow Buttress.  At present, lichen has encroached on the climbs due to lack of traffic, but the efforts of a few climbers would soon change this.  The rocks are fairly small, but still offer some worthwhile climbing up thin faces and over some good overhangs.  They are definitely worth a look when the novelty of the classics wear off.">The Omega Rocks are located to the rightR of Shadow Buttress.  At present, lichen has encroached on the climbs due to lack of traffic, but the efforts of a few climbers would soon change this.  The rocks are fairly small, but still offer some worthwhile climbing up thin faces and over some good overhangs.  They are definitely worth a look when the novelty of the classics wear off.</text><climb
        extra="" grade="15" length="4m" name="Hibernation" new="false"
        number="" stars=""
        value="A short and pleasant enough little problem on the second buttress from the L.  Climb up the corner to the roof. extra="" grade="15" length="4m"
        name="Hibernation Pass to the R of this and finish.  1967.">A short and pleasant enough little problem on the second buttress from the leftL.  Climb up the corner to the roof.  Pass to the rightR of this and finish.  1967.</climb><climb
        extra="" grade="18" length="4m" name="Cobweb Crack" new="false"
        number="" stars="" value="A fairly technical problem 2m R of Hibernation.  Climb up the thin crack to the hollow scoop at two-thirds height.  Continue on easily to the top.  1967.">A fairly technical problem 2m rightR of Hibernation.  Climb up the thin crack to the hollow scoop at two-thirds height.  Continue on easily to the top.  1967.</climb></guide>