Page History

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<guide><header
        access="The drive from Hobart doesn't take long which makes it good for after-work climbing sessions. In fact, it takes no longer to get to Coningham than to Rocky Tom. From Hobart, head south to Kingston via the Southern Outlet. Just before Kingston, take the right-hand lane and continue through Margate and Snug. About 1 km past Snug, the turn-off to the left leads along the shore to Coningham Beach. Park here - twentythirty minutes from Hobart. The walk to the crag is delightfully short. It starts at the steps leading down left by the big water tank about 50m on from the beach. Follow south-east end of  the pathbeach downand tofollows the shore, then southcoastal path above the shore for a couple of hundred metres. WithinLook minutesout thefor smallan sandstoneobvious cliffseroded arearea foundon fallingthe awaycliff belowedge you.used Itby isschool alsogroups possibleand toclimbers, walkjust alongafter the shoresecond fromHazard theWarning beachsign when(!) theand tidejust is down."
        acknowledgement="by Matt Perchard, originally published in Craglets."
        history=""
        intro="If the size and grandeur of a crag is important to you, then Coningham is not the place to head. However, for the climber who seeks variety and a more balanced climbing experience, then this beaut little crag is definitely worth a look. Despite its small size, there are several excellent routes to consider. There is a good scattering of grades and styles - easy corners, steep faces, technical slabs and a mega-pumpy off-width. The picturesque marine environment and the short walk are also major selling points."
        name="Coningham" new="false"
        rock="Short slabby sandstone buttresses. Mostly the climbs are toproped."
        sun="All day sun" walk="5 min"/><image new="false"
        noPrint="false" number="null." src="conningham map.png"
        width=""/><text
        class="text">The first climbs are found about 120m to the south of the main wall.  Walk along the path a few metres above the sea until you come to an off-width crack.  This is Cosmic Winch.  About 20m further on are two easy crack-lines.</text><text
        class="text" new="false"
        number="null.">Immediately L. of No Oxygen Needed is black graffiti on the wall, which says. “Duran Duran Rules, Okay!” The following three top roped climbs are L of this and worth a look, all traditional Coningham (i.e. nice and small).</text><climbbefore the large brown Nature Recreation sign. It is also possible to walk along the shore from the beach when the tide is down. Otherwise you can get down to the bottom of the crag by scrambling down just to the R (as you look out to sea) of the main area.  &lt;br/>The climbs are described from L to R.  &lt;br/>"
        acknowledgement="Original published in Craglets by Matt Perchard, updated by Tony McKenny and Phil Robinsonby 2008."
        history=""
        intro="If the size and grandeur of a crag is important to you, then Coningham is not the place to head. However, for the climber who seeks variety and a more balanced climbing experience, then this beaut little crag is definitely worth a look. Despite its small size, there are several excellent routes to enjoy. There is a good scattering of grades and styles - easy corners, steep faces, technical slabs and a mega-pumpy off-width. The picturesque marine environment and the short walk are also major selling points. The bolts are old though - user beware."
        name="Coningham" new="false"
        rock="Short slabby sandstone buttresses. Mostly the climbs are toproped."
        sun="All day sun" walk="5 min"/><image new="false"
        noPrint="false" number="null." src="conningham map.png"
        width=""/><text class="heading2"
        new="false">Main Wall Area</text><climb extra="" grade="17"
        length="12m" name="An Ultimate Answer" new="false" number=""
        extrastars="">Aesthetically grade="15" length="8m" name="Okay" new="false"
        number=""
        stars="">The face 1.5m L of Rules. Beware, the good holds run out at the top.  S.Scott, P.Robinson. May 2005the best route at Coningham. Start at the LH end of the wall, to the L of the distinctive corner crack of Working In a Cod Mine. Climb the off-width crack separating the detached pinnacle from the main wall. Complete choss - even Cathedral Rock is better than this! Nov 1981.
</climb><climb
        extra="" grade="1514" length="8m10m" name="Rules" new="falseWorking In a Cod Mine"
        new="false" number=""
        stars="">The seamcorner 1.5mon Lthe ofLH Duranside Duran.of the S.Scott, P.Robinsonmain wall. May 2005.
</climb><climb
   Layback and jam the corner. Watch out for the difficult exit at the top. Nov 1981. 
</climb><climb
        extra="" grade="1521" length="8m" name="DuranLost at DuranSea" new="false"
        number=""
        stars="">4m L of No Oxygen Needed is>   
To the R of Working In a thinCod fingerMine crack.are Climb this for 4mtwo bolts. DoClimb not continuedirectly up the unpleasantwall wideto crackthe butsecond stepbolt. leftTraverse andoff followL theto cleaneasier arête.rock to Pfinish.Robinson, S.Scott. May 2005 Although a good climb, the direct finish as Shark Attack is recommended.
</climb><climb
        extra="" grade="1424" length="10m8m" name="NoShark Oxygen NeededAttack" new="false"
        new="false" number=""
        stars="">The crackdirect upfinish theto easyLost angledat comerSea.  Climb itthe onwall fingerto jamsthe andsecond layaways.bolt, Theand bottomthen haskeep eroded giving a desperate start. Traverse delicately in from the right for a 14. Nov/81.</climb><climb
        extra="" grade="17" length="10m"
        name="S and M">About 3m right of No Oxygen Needed is a crack up the face.  Climb the crack, through its widths, to an interesting move at the top.  Some of the rock (especially on the lower section) is a bit suspect, but the climb is still worthwhile and is surprisingly harder than it looks.  Nov/81.</climb><climb
  going (crux). The crux section is well protected and takes some figuring out. With familiarity some climbs become remarkably easy - this is not one of them. You'll not find a less committing lead at the grade. Justin Kennedy.
</climb><climb
        extra="" grade="21" length="8m" name="Dead Memories" new="false"
        number=""
        stars=""> Further R is a beginner's corner. Unfortunately, halfway up it evolves into an expert's epic. Climb the corner, the groove, and finally the unlikely looking face past the bolt. May be a bit harder than 21….
</climb><climb
        extra="" grade="21" length="16/178m" name="(Unnamed)Floating Riot" new="false"
        number=""
        stars="">The>This faceclimb 1.5mhas Rbeen ofknown S and M, a bit contrived as one can escape L or R, but worth doing. Goas The Ultimate Answer, Brain Damage and Floating Riot - although a good climb one name should be sufficient! Start just R of Dead Memories and 5m L of the small cave(and atdangerously the top.  S.Scott, P.Robinson, May 2005.
</climb><climb
        extra="" grade="24" length="12m"
        name="Cosmic Winch">A long standing problem with a strenuous and technical crux.  About 20m north of No Oxygen Needed is a bottomless, overhanging, off-width crack (sounds delightful!).  Don't start here.  Rather, climb the overhanging arete and face just left of the crack for a few metres.  Transfer right to the left-hand lip of the roof and crack, then ascend this steeply to the top.  Marcel Jackson, Dec/89.</climb><climbflaky) cave, below two carrots. Ascend the wall R of the corner to a dubious looking bolt (rumour has it that the bolt is fairly long so a sufficient portion of it penetrates the rock). Continue with difficulty up the corner to another bolt and a rest. Either move straight up (preferable) or escape R to easier ground. C.Maddock, Feb 1985.
</climb><climb
        extra="" grade="20  (?)" length="10m" name="Righthand Arête (1)"
        new="false" number=""
        stars="">On the extreme RH end of the main wall is an overhanging arête. Climb it… and let us know how hard you think it is!
</climb><text
        class="text"
        new="false">An excellent boulder traverse can be made from the RH side of the flaky cave to Working In a Cod Mine. The initial moves through the cave are a bit fragile but it adds to the fun.</text><climb
        extra="" grade="16" length="13m" name="Rabbit Shit" new="false"
        number=""
        stars="">Most climbers would consider a crack filled with lagomorph’s excrement to be rather undesirable. So is this climb! The climb ascends the filthy crack around the corner R from the cave. If the climb kept to the thin finger crack on the L it might be worth doing. However, the bottom third of the corner/crack is trivial, the middle section is alright, and the top out dirty, loose and dangerous. Nov 1981.
</climb><climb
        extra="" grade="21(?)" length="10m" name="Righthand Arête (2)"
        new="false" number=""
        stars="">8m R of the flaky cave past an unclimbed wall is another arête. Straightforward at the bottom and hard at the top. Let us know the grade once you have climbed it!
</climb><text
        extraclass="heading2" gradenew="17false" length="12m">Southern Area</text><text
        nameclass="An Ultimate Answer">Aesthetically the best route at Coningham.  Start 2m seaward of Working in a Cod Mine at the base of the off-width crack separating the detached pinnacle from the main wall.  Complete choss - even Cathedral Rock is better than this!  Nov/81.</climb><climb
        extra="" grade="14" length="10m"
        name="Working In a Cod Mine">The obvious corner on the left-hand side of the main wall.  Layback and jam the corner.  Watch out for the difficult exit at the top!  Nov/81.</climb><climbtext"
        new="false">About 120m to the south-east of the main wall further along the cliff-top track is another area of climbs. If you reach a wooden seat, go back 15m. You should see the ‘No Oxygen Needed’ corner below. One can scramble down about 20m S of this. The climbs are described from L to R.
Immediately L. of the obvious corner, ‘No Oxygen Needed’,  is black graffiti on the wall, “Duran Duran Rules, Okay!” The following three top-roped climbs are L of this and worth a look. 
</text><climb
        extra="" grade="2415" length="8m" name="Shark AttackOkay" new="false"
        number=""
        stars="">This>The is the direct finish to Lost at Sea.  Climb the wall to the second bolt, then keep going (crux).  The crux section is well protected and takes some figuring out.  With familiarity some climbs become remarkably easy - this is not one of them.  You'll not find a more committing lead at the grade.  Justin Kennedy.face 1.5m L of Rules. Beware, the good holds run out at the top. S.Scott, P.Robinson. May 2005 
</climb><climb
        extra="" grade="15" length="8m" name="Rules" new="false"
        number=""
        stars="">The seam 1.5m L of Duran Duran. S.Scott, P.Robinson. May 2005. 
</climb><climb
        extra="" grade="2115" length="8m" name="Duran Duran" new="false"
        namenumber="Lost at Sea">Halfway
 between Working in a Cod Mine and Floating Riot are two bolts.  Climb directly up the wall to the second bolt.  Traverse off to easier rock to finish.  Although a good climb, the direct finish as Shark Attack is recommended.stars="">4m L of No Oxygen Needed is a thin finger crack. Climb this for 4m. Do not continue up the unpleasant wide crack but step left and follow the clean arête. P.Robinson, S.Scott. May 2005. 
</climb><climb
        extra="" grade="2114" length="8m10m" name="DeadNo Memories" new="falseOxygen Needed"
        new="false" number=""
        stars="">Just>The leftcrack of Floating Riot is a beginner's corner.  Unfortunately, halfway up it evolves into an expert's epic.  Climb the corner, the groove, and finally the unlikely looking face. May be a bit harder than 21.up the easy angled comer. Climb it on finger jams and layaways. The bottom has eroded giving a desperate start. Traverse delicately in from the right for a 14. Nov 1981
</climb><climb
        extra="" grade="2116" length="8m"
        name="Floating Riot">This climb has been known as The Ultimate Answer, Brain Damage and Floating Riot - although a good climb one name should be sufficient!  Start just left of the small (and dangerously flaky) cave.  Ascend the wall right of the corner to a dubious looking bolt (rumour has it that the bolt is fairly long so a sufficient portion of it penetrates the rock).  Continue with difficulty up the corner to another bolt and a rest.  Either move straight up (preferable) or escape right to easier ground.  C.Maddock, Feb/85.10m" name="S and M" new="false"
        number=""
        stars="">About 3m right of No Oxygen Needed is a crack up the face. Climb the crack, through its widths, to an interesting move at the top. Some of the rock (especially on the lower section) is a bit suspect, but the climb is still worthwhile and is surprisingly harder than it looks. Nov 1981.
</climb><climb
        extra="" grade="2016/17" length="10m"" name="Russet Wall" namenew="Righthand Arêtefalse"
        new="false" number=""
        stars="">On>The theface extreme right-hand end 1.5m R of the main wall is an overhanging arête. Climb it. 
An excellent boulder traverse can be made from the right-hand side of the flaky cave to Working in a Cod Mine.  The initial moves through the cave are a bit fragile but it adds to the fun!S and M, a bit contrived as one can escape L or R, but worth doing. Go L of the small cave at the top. Kim Robinson/Phil Robinson 1998 (but likely climbed before).
</climb><climb
        extra="" grade="1624" length="13m12m" name="Cosmic Winch" new="false"
        number="Rabbit" Shit">Most climbers would considerstars="">A long standing problem with a crackstrenuous and filledtechnical withcrux. lagomorphAbout excrement15m toR beof ratherRusset undesirable.Wall is Soa isbottomless, this climb!  The climb ascends the filthy crack around the corner and about 5m right of Floating Riot.  If the climb keptoverhanging, off-width crack (sounds delightful!). Don't start here. Rather, climb the overhanging arête and face just L of the crack for a few metres. Transfer R to the thinLH fingerlip crack onof the leftroof itand mightcrack, bethen worthascend doing.this steeply Butto the bottom third of the corner/crack is trivial, the middle section is alright, and the top section is reminiscent of the bowels of the earth (caving!).  Nov/81.top. Marcel Jackson, Dec 1989. Note:- Large block(s) appear to have collapsed from the starting arête to the L and a new ascent awaits.
</climb></guide>