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<guide guidestars="*" pagesize="500"><text class="heading1" new="false"><header
        numberaccess="null.">Cataract Gorge - Shady Side</text><text
        class="Editor" new="false"For access/general details, see the section on the Cataract Gorge - Sunny Side."
        numberacknowledgement="null.">byby Michael Fox, originally published in Craglets.</text><text"
        class="text" newhistory="false"
        numberintro="null.">For access/general details, seeThe popular walk up on the sectionnorth onside theof CataractThe Gorge (Sunnyhosts Sidea /few Zig-Zag Track).</text><text
        class="text">The popular walk up on the north side of The Gorge hosts a few good climbs for those hot sunny days that abound good climbs for those hot sunny days that abound in Launceston. These climbs are described left to right due to the tyrannical nature of the chief editor. i.e from the restaurant downhill to the bridge even though most of you will be walking the other way. So if you start at the end of these descriptions and read back to here it will make more sense. The distances are measured in leisurely steps. If you are taller or shorter or in a hurry then adjust accordingly.</text><text"
        classname="textCataract Gorge - Shady Side" new="false"
        numberrock="null.">These first two climbs are above the track about 160 steps from the sign that says “Cataract Walk”. Just step off the fence and Short vertical dolerite buttresses, with a mixture of trad and bolted climbs"
        sun="Not much sun" walk="5-10 min"/><text class="heading3"
        new="false" value="The Trap Area">The Trap Area</text><text
        class="text" new="false"
        number="null.">These first two climbs are above the track about 160 steps from the sign that says “Cataract Walk”. Just step off the fence and onto the climb. DBB on top.</text><climb
        extra="" grade="17" length="10m" name="Nymphogranuloma"
        stars=" * ">The jamb crack 2m to the left of The Trap with a block in the crack at the top. Narkowicz, 1982.</climb><climb
        extra="4B" grade="22" length="10m" name="The Trap"
  new="false"
        number="" stars="*"
        value=" * Step off the rails and on to the black face with 4 FH, 70 steps on from the Prince of Darkness abseil point. Ng, 1991.">Step off the rails and on to the black face with 4 FH, 70 steps on from the Prince of Darkness abseil point. Ng, 1991.</climb><text
        class="text">The shonky looking bolts right of this climb are not a climb, they have been placed by the council to monitor rock movement. They should NOT be clipped for climbing purposes.</text><text
        class="heading3" new="false"
        number="null.">Prince of Darkness Area</text><text
        class="text">70 steps downstream from The trap or 15 steps upstream of the stairs to the lookout is a light pole. Abseil down the sloping ledge beneath this to the platform 15m below</text><climb
        extra="" grade="24" length="15m" name="King of Pain"
        stars=" ** ">The upstream most of this trilogy of climbs. Climb the features to a hand crack at mid-height then continue on up the arête. Fox, Tierney, DeCesare, 2001.</climb><climb
        extra="" grade="21" length="15m" name="Prince of Darkness"
        stars=" ** ">The climb ascends the blocky crack in the middle of the buttress to a small roof then up a thin crack to the sloping ledge. McMahon, Narkowicz 1982.</climb><climb
        extra="" grade="20" length="15m" name="Queen of Salsa"
        stars=" *** ">Start 2m right of POD and head up the ramp to the off-width which can be climbed with-out having to resort to any off-width techniques and then up the top face. Fox, Luna, DeCesare, 2001</climb><text
        class="text" new="false"
        number="null.">From the bottom of the stairs leading up to the look-out you can look downstream and up the hill to see a tall buttress with 2 cracks on it.</text><climb
        extra="" grade="25" length="15m" name="Dam It"
        stars=" ** ">Thin face climbing around the left-hand crack. Chris Shepherd, 1985</climb><climb
        extra="" grade="23" length="15m"
        name="Disgorge">The long crack on the right of the main face. Lamb, Narkowicz, 1982</climb><climb
        extra="" grade="22" length="8m"
        name="The One That Got Away">A short finger crack, not visible from the walkway, on the right of the buttress opening up at the top. McMahon, Smart 1982.
140 steps from the stairs to the lookout are 2 huge pines on the uphill side of the footpath. Coming from Double Dozen Cliff it is also about 140 steps. The next climb is 10m behind pines.</climb><climb
        extra="" grade="23" length="12m"
        name="Anopheles">2 eye-bolts to finger crack and pro. Stick clip the first eye-bolt. Looks like it could do with another dose of agent orange. DBB. Fox, Tierney, 1996.</climb><climbclimb><text
        extra="climbs on it. Access via Anopheles or scrambling up on the right."
        grade="2class="text" new="false"
        namevalue="Up above this climb is a small buttress with"/><climb
     2  climbs on it. Access via Anopheles or scrambling up on the right.">Up above this climb is a small buttress with     2  climbs on it. Access via Anopheles or scrambling up on the right.</text><climb
        extra="" grade="17" length="8m"
        name="Ned">The hand crack on the left hand side. DBB. Kearnes, DeCesare, 2001.</climb><climb
        extra="" grade="16" length="8m"
        name="Dirichnum Rectum">The thin crack opening towards the top on the blunt arête 3m right of Ned. DBB. DeCesare, Kearnes, 2001.</climb><text
        class="heading3" new="false"
        number="null.">Double Dozen Cliff</text><text
        class="text">When you reach a large landing with a picnic table and seats then you’ve found the Double Dozen buttress. On the other side of the river is Gabriel Buttress. When the tide is out you can cross over from here. These are some of the best climbs on this side of the gorge</text><climb
        extra="" grade="17" length="11m" name="Afternoon Delights"
        stars=" * ">About 25 steps upstream from the main Double Dozen Buttress is a hand crack opening up to off hands at the top. DBB. Smith, Cover, 1980.</climb><climb
        extra="" grade="18" length="11m"
        name="Garbo">The left hand crack and corner. McMahon, Ian Green, 1973.</climb><climb
        extra="" grade="22" length="11m" name="Double Dozen"
        stars=" *** ">Boulder problem start to the steep crack then exit out right of the block at the top. Add a grade for the direct finish. DBB. Moorehead, 1981.</climb><climb
        extra="" grade="24" length="11m" name="No Right Turn"
        stars=" ** ">Up the thin double cracks on the right above the “booga” graffiti. DBB. Parsons, 1981.</climb><climb
        extra="Þ" grade="26" length="10m" name="It’s in the Veins"
        new="false" number="" stars=" **"
        value=">TheThe bolted face 5m right of No Right Turn. DBB. Learmont, 1997.</climb><climb
        extra="">The bolted face 5m right of No Right Turn. DBB. Learmont, 1997.</climb><climb
        extra="Þ" grade="26" length="10m" name="Future World"
        name="Future Worldnew="false" number="" stars=""
        value="The line of bolts up the arete right of It’s in the Veins. DBB Selby, 1998.">The line of bolts up the arete right of It’s in the Veins. DBB Selby, 1998.</climb><climb
        extra="3B" grade="22" length="10m" name="Pipedreams" new="false"
        number="" stars="*" * ">Walk
        value="Walk up the right side of Double Dozen Buttress and climb up the fixed rope to the old pipes. Follow these pipes to your right. All up it’s 30m from Future World. Up pillar past 3 FH to a DBB. Fox, Jones, 2001.</climb><text
  ">Walk up the right side of Double Dozen Buttress and climb up the fixed rope to the old pipes. Follow these pipes to your right. All up it’s 30m from Future World. Up pillar past 3 FH to a DBB. Fox, Jones, 2001.</climb><text
        class="text" new="false"
        number="null.">Another 95 steps upstream from the hut with the funny looking concrete tree trunks is a slab that leads up to a 12m 2 climbs on it. It is also 95 steps downstream from the Double Dozen Buttress The first climb is on the face looking upstream.</text><climb
        extra="" grade="24" length="9m"
        name="Moreheads Corner">Visible from the walk-way it is the left hand crack on the upstream face 4m left of the very thin twin cracks (which are waiting a first ascent). DBB way over the back. Morehead, Dignan 1982.</climb><climb
        extra="Þ" grade="22" length="10m" name="Road to the Lost City"
        new="false" number="" stars=" **"
  ">Originally      value="Originally called Pipeline, but known by the above name for many years. It is 15m around the corner from Morehead’s Corner and easy to identify now because the council has put cables over a potentially loose boulder at the top. Climb the left hand crack/corner then traverse right onto the black face past 3 bolts and the macrame. DBB. Ng and Vincent 1992. A direct start has been done at the same grade (for tall people) but doesn’t add much to the climb.
Across">Originally thecalled gullyPipeline, onbut the upstream side ofknown by the Roadabove toname thefor Lostmany Cityyears. buttressIt is a15m singlearound pillar.the Accesscorner byfrom scramblingMorehead’s upCorner theand gullyeasy onto theidentify leftnow ofbecause Moreheadsthe Cornercouncil andhas thenput headingcables leftover justa beforepotentially whereloose theboulder 2at pipesthe cross over.</climb><climb
        extra="" grade="22" length="10m" name="Macu Picu"
        stars=" ** ">The arete with 2 eye-bolts and wires. DBB. Fox, Tierney, 1996top. Climb the left hand crack/corner then traverse right onto the black face past 3 bolts and the macrame. DBB. Ng and Vincent 1992. A direct start has been done at the same grade (for tall people) but doesn’t add much to the climb.</climb><text
        class="heading3text" new="false"
        numbervalue="null.">The Lost City / Left Kohoutek</text><text
        class="text">Access - either from the top of Road to the Lost City go 50m uphill and slightly downstream or scramble upAcross the gully on the upstream side of the Road to the Lost City buttress is a single pillar. Access by scrambling up the gully on the left of Moreheads Corner and then heading left just before where the 2 pipes cross over.">Across the gully on the upstream side of the Road to the Lost City, gobuttress pastis thea crossedsingle overpillar. pipesAccess andby thenscrambling go right to walk along up the single pipe for 30m. From heregully on the buttressleft isof visibleMoreheads 40m uphillCorner and slightlythen downstream.heading Shortleft climbsjust butbefore worthwhere athe visit2 ifpipes you’re in the areacross over.</text><climb
        extra="Þ" grade="1822" length="8m10m"
        name="Rose in the Dust">The off-width looking crack. Narkowicz, McMahon, 1982.</climb><climbMacu Picu" new="false"
        number="" stars="**"
        extravalue="" grade="21" length="8m"
        name="Iliocostalis">The crack 2m downstream of Only the WheelThe arete with 2 eye-bolts and wires. DBB. Fox, Tierney, 1996.">The arete with 2 eye-bolts and wires. DBB. NarkowiczFox, McMahonTierney, 1982<1996.</climb><climbclimb><text
        extraclass="heading3" gradenew="23" length="9m" name="Only the Wheel"false"
        starsnumber=" ** ">3 bolts up the right hand arete. Ng, Vincent, 1992.</climb><textnull.">The Lost City / Left Kohoutek</text><text
        class="heading3text" new="false"
        number="null.">Right Kohoutek </text><text class="text"
        new="false"
        number="null.">Head downstream another 50m from Left Kohoutek staying on the same level and crossing the head of a gully. Alternatively from the hut with the concrete tree trunks head directly up the hill for 60m>Access - either from the top of Road to the Lost City go 50m uphill and slightly downstream or scramble up the gully on the upstream side of Road to the Lost City, go past the crossed over pipes and then go right to walk along the single pipe for 30m. From here the buttress is visible 40m uphill and slightly downstream. Short climbs but worth a visit if you’re in the area.</text><climb
        extra="" grade="2418" length="8m"
        name="InRose Cahouts">Climbin the fused corner for 2m before moving out to the left arête for another 2m and then back to the crack. Sound contrived* Who knows I haven’t done it. Fisher 1997.<Dust">The off-width looking crack. Narkowicz, McMahon, 1982.</climb><climb
        extra="" grade="21" length="8m"
        name="Iliocostalis">The crack 2m downstream of Only the Wheel. DBB. Narkowicz, McMahon, 1982</climb><climb
        extra="Þ" grade="2423" length="8m9m" name="LazyOnly the MahoutWheel"
        new="false" number="" stars=" **"
 ">The arete right of In Cahouts with value="3 FH and a 1 friend at the top. DBB. Fox, DeCesare, 2002.</climb><climb bolts up the right hand arete. Ng, Vincent, 1992.">3 bolts up the right hand arete. Ng, Vincent, 1992.</climb><text
        extraclass="heading3" gradenew="18false"
 length="8m"
        namenumber="Rainy Day Woman">Pleasant crack climbing up the middle of the face. Selby, McMahon 1997.</climb><text
 null.">Right Kohoutek </text><text class="text"
       class="text" new="false"
        number="null.">Now back on>Head downstream another 50m from Left Kohoutek staying on the same level and crossing the touristhead trackof 55a stepsgully. upstreamAlternatively from the hut with the fakeconcrete cement tree trunks ishead thedirectly nextup climb.the Ithill is also 40 steps downstream from the ramp leading to Road to the Lost City.</text><climbfor 60m.</text><climb
        extra="" grade="24" length="8m" name="In Cahouts" new="false"
        extranumber="" grade="21" lengthstars="10m"
        namevalue="GoldClimb 101">Climbthe upfused thecorner easyfor face2m tobefore amoving ledgeout withto athe DBB.left Thesearête arefor actuallyanother to2m facilitateand measuringthen ofback rockto movementthe andcrack. wereSound placedcontrived, bybut council.who Niceknows ofI themhaven’t hey!done Moveit. right aroundFisher 1997.">Climb the arete to a black face with a thin crack up it. Climb this then move left at half height to an easier crack to finish at a DBB. Narkowicz, 1983fused corner for 2m before moving out to the left arête for another 2m and then back to the crack. Sound contrived, but who knows I haven’t done it. Fisher 1997.</climb><climb
        extra="Þ"steps downstream to be level with a small block of rock 10 m above the track with an off-width (grade 19 if you have to do it) up the right side."
        grade="40" name="From the picnic shelter walk"/><climb extra=""
grade="24" length="8m" name="Lazy Mahout" new="false"
        number="" stars="*"
        value="The arete right of In Cahouts with 3 FH and a 1 friend at the top. DBB. Fox, DeCesare, 2002.">The arete right of In Cahouts with 3 FH and a 1 friend at the top. DBB. Fox, DeCesare, 2002.</climb><climb
        extra="" grade="2418" length="10m8m"
        name="Sanctity">A natural pro sports route* This route is yet to see an ascent placing gear on lead. Otherwise it’s something of a hassle since you have to rap down to pre-place gear! Climb the face left of the off-width heading left at the top. Narkowicz, 1999.
30 steps further downstream is another small pinnacle with an even smaller conifer in front of it. It’s possible to see the shiny hangers of this route from the track in front of Sanctity.</climb><climbRainy Day Woman">Pleasant crack climbing up the middle of the face. Selby, McMahon 1997.</climb><text
        class="text" new="false"
        number="null.">Now back on the tourist track 55 steps upstream from the hut with the fake cement tree trunks is the next climb. It is also 40 steps downstream from the ramp leading to Road to the Lost City.</text><climb
        extra="" grade="2321" length="9m" name="History Maker"10m"
        starsname="Gold ** ">Great moves101">Climb up pastthe 4easy FHface to a ledge with a DBB. Narkowicz, 2001.</climb><text
        class="text" new="false"
        number="null.">If you feel like a bit of a scrub bash you can now head up the footpads 35 steps upstream from the New Move that lead to small buttress above the arêtes. Discovered by Narkowicz just after McMahon published the Cataract guide they destroyed once and for all the notion of a definitive guide book.</text><climbThese are actually to facilitate measuring of rock movement and were placed by council. Nice of them hey! Move right around the arete to a black face with a thin crack up it. Climb this then move left at half height to an easier crack to finish at a DBB. Narkowicz, 1983.</climb><text
        extraclass="text" gradenew="22" length="8m"false"
        namevalue="TimeFrom forthe anpicnic Update">Theshelter fingerwalk crack40 up thesteps leftdownstream handto sidebe oflevel thewith buttress.a Narkowicz, 2000.</climb><climb
        extra="" grade="24" length="8m"
        name="Another Poxy Route for the Next Edition">The very thin crack left of the chimney. Narkowicz, 2000.</climb><climb
        extra="" grade="22" length="8m"
        name="Stuff the Guidebook">Up the prow of the buttress. Narkowicz, 2000.</climb><climbsmall block of rock 10m above the track with an off-width (grade 19 if you have to do it) up the right side.">From the picnic shelter walk 40  steps downstream to be level with a small block of rock 10m above the track with an off-width (grade 19 if you have to do it) up the right side.</text><climb
        extra="" grade="2124" length="10m" name="Sanctity" new="8mfalse"
        number="" namestars=""One
 for the Appendix">Right of STG and left of the chimney. Narkowicz, 2000.</climb><climb
        extra="steps on from History Maker you will reach a series of 3 pillars with bolted climbs going up the arêtes of each."
        grade="115" name="Back down on the tourist track"/><climb
        extra="" grade="25" length="9m"
        name="Schizo">The same pillar as The New Move just sticking to the upstream face. Contrived but fun and the tourists won’t know the difference. 2 FH to the same DBB as The New Move. Fox, Tiz, 2002.</climb><climbvalue="A natural pro sports route. This route is yet to see an ascent placing gear on lead. Otherwise it’s something of a hassle since you have to rap down to pre-place gear! Climb the face left of the off-width heading left at the top. Narkowicz, 1999.">A natural pro sports route. This route is yet to see an ascent placing gear on lead. Otherwise it’s something of a hassle since you have to rap down to pre-place gear! Climb the face left of the off-width heading left at the top. Narkowicz, 1999.</climb><text
        extraclass="text" gradenew="20" length="9mfalse"
        namevalue="Revival30 Aretesteps /Telecumfurther /Thedownstream Newis Move"
another small pinnacle with an even smaller conifer stars=" *** ">Callin front of it. whatIt’s youpossible willto justsee dothe it!shiny 2hangers eye-boltsof tothis aroute DBB.from Narkowicz (solo), backthe track in thefront Jurassicof era.</climb><climb
        extra="" grade="23" length="7m" name="Prohibitionist"
        stars=" * ">The middle arete. 2 eye-bolts and a DBB. Fisher, 1996.</climb><climbSanctity.">30 steps further downstream is another small pinnacle with an even smaller conifer in front of it. It’s possible to see the shiny hangers of this route from the track in front of Sanctity.</text><climb
        extra="Þ" grade="2723" length="9m" name="NoHistory DamsMaker"
        starsnew="false" number="" stars="**"
        ">The downstream arete. 2 eye-bolts andvalue="Great moves up past 4 FH to a DBB. Narkowicz, 2001.">Great moves up past 4 FH to a DBB. Chris ShepherdNarkowicz, 19852001.</climb><text
        class="text" new="false"
        number="null.">15>If you stepsfeel pastlike thea lastbit of thea arêtesscrub isbash Ivy Crack</text><climb
        extra="" grade="23" length="10m"
        name="Ivy Crack">A thin crack that opens up to hand crack towards the top. It’s climbability is often threatened by the encroachment of ivy. People have been threatening to clean it out for years. You could be the one. Fantini, Smith, 1980.</climb><text
you can now head up the footpads 35 steps upstream from the New Move that lead to small buttress above the arêtes. Discovered by Narkowicz just after McMahon published the Cataract guide they destroyed once and for all the notion of a definitive guide book.</text><climb
        extra="" classgrade="text22" newlength="false8m"
        numbername="null.">10 steps downstream from Ivy Crack is a project Time for an Update">The finger crack up the boltedleft corner. Aroundhand side of the cornerbuttress. from this is the next climbNarkowicz, 2000.</text><climbclimb><climb
        extra="" grade="1724" length="15m" name="Six Agile Men"8m"
        starsname="Another *** ">Climb the corner or boulder up the arête 10 steps from FTA. Continue up the slab past a tree branch and 3 bolts to a DBB. Fox and 5 agile men, 2001Poxy Route for the Next Edition">The very thin crack left of the chimney. Narkowicz, 2000.</climb><climb
        extra="steps." grade="10"22" length="8m"
        name="ContinueStuff downstreamthe for another"/><climb extra=""
Guidebook">Up the prow of the buttress. Narkowicz, 2000.</climb><climb
        extra="" grade="1921" length="7m8m"
        name="FightingOne for the AuthoritiesAppendix">Up>Right pastof 2STG FHand on the left of the aretechimney. Same DBB as TMMT. SelbyNarkowicz, 19992000.</climb><climbclimb><text
        extraclass="heading3" gradenew="25" length="9mfalse"
        namevalue="TheNew Magical Mousey Tour">Around the arête from FTA or 20 steps upstream from POTR. 2FH. Starts in the corner, under the roof. Up to clip the first bolt, then out left onto the face and up. DBB. Learmont, 1999.</climb><climbMove">New Move</text><text class="text" new="false"
        value="Back down on the tourist track 115  steps on from History Maker you will reach a series of 3 pillars with bolted climbs going up the arêtes of each.">Back down on the tourist track 115  steps on from History Maker you will reach a series of 3 pillars with bolted climbs going up the arêtes of each.</text><climb
        extra="" grade="2325" length="10m9m"
        name="PathSchizo">The ofsame thepillar Righteous">Moreas likeThe “pathNew ofMove thejust idiotic”. When concerns were raised aboutsticking to the poorupstream boltingface. qualityContrived (protrudingbut carrotsfun and lackthe oftourists lower offs) on this climb the first ascentionist saw fit to hack them off but not replace them with something better. If you really want to solo it (or better yet, if an altruistic individual retro-bolts it) the route starts 15 steps from FTA on an face left of a small roof around the arete from Heckle. Narkowicz, 1999.</climb><climbwon’t know the difference. 2 FH to the same DBB as The New Move. Fox, Tiz, 2002.</climb><climb
        extra="2B" grade="20" length="9m"
        name="Revival Arete /Telecum /The New Move" new="false"
        extranumber="" gradestars="15" length="10m***"
        namevalue="Heckle">The off-width that hitsCall it what you inwill thejust facedo asit! you2 walkeye-bolts fromto thea toll gateDBB. 155 steps from the start of the bottom end of the track. For those interested in history McMahon thinks this may have been the first climb doneNarkowicz (solo), back in the Jurassic era.">Call it what you will just do it! 2 eye-bolts to a DBB. Narkowicz (solo), back in the Gorge.Jurassic DBB. McMahon and McHugh, 1972.era.</climb><climb
        extra="2B" grade="1823" length="10m"
       7m" name="ElphinProhibitionist">The
 corner 3m right of Heckle. McMahon and a crow-eater, 1973.</climb><text
        class="heading2" new="falsenew="false" number="" stars="*"
        numbervalue="null.">Above the Suspension Bridge</text><text
        class="text">Access: See map. Council has also very nicely placed distance markers on the track starting at the Suspension bridge. These make handy guides to the climbs.</text><imageThe middle arete. 2 eye-bolts and a DBB. Fisher, 1996.">The middle arete. 2 eye-bolts and a DBB. Fisher, 1996.</climb><climb
        extra="2B" grade="27" length="9m" name="No Dams" new="false"
        newnumber="false" noPrintstars="false" number="null."**"
        srcvalue="Launceston_Susp_Mud_Map.PNG" width="600">null</image><text
        class="heading3" new="false"
        number="null.">Ice Scream Buttress</text><text class="text"
The downstream arete. 2 eye-bolts and a DBB. Chris Shepherd, 1985.">The downstream arete. 2 eye-bolts and a DBB. Chris Shepherd, 1985.</climb><text
        class="text" new="false"
        number="null.">Access: From>15 steps past the firstlast bridge onof the Duckarêtes Reachis track stand and look at the cliff. Straight in front of you is an orange and black face with two FH. This is Ice Cream. Above this and slightly downstream is a large block with 3 FH this is Shiloh. The face on your immediate left is Zerubbabel and Spooksville.</text><climbIvy Crack</text><climb
        extra="" grade="23" length="10m"
        name="Ivy Crack">A thin crack that opens up to hand crack towards the top. It’s climbability is often threatened by the encroachment of ivy. People have been threatening to clean it out for years. You could be the one. Fantini, Smith, 1980.</climb><text
        extraclass="text" gradenew="23false" length="8m"
        name="Shiloh">Climb on the left of the arête past three FH. DBB. Narkowicz, 2001.</climb><climb
        number="null.">10 steps downstream from Ivy Crack is a project up the bolted corner. Around the corner from this is the next climb.</text><climb
        extra="Þ" grade="1917" length="15m" name="10mSix Agile Men"
        new="false" namenumber="Zerubbabel">Climb the blank face to the horizontal break, which is only 16 if you have the reach, then continue up. Narkowicz, McMahon, 2000.</climb><climb
        extra="" grade="19" length="10m"
        name="Spooksville">The next route right up the stepped scoop. Originally done with a piton runner. Narkowicz, Bennet, McMahon stars="***"
        value="Climb the corner or boulder up the arête 10 steps from FTA. Continue up the slab past a tree branch and 3 bolts to a DBB. Fox and 5 agile men, 2001.">Climb the corner or boulder up the arête 10 steps from FTA. Continue up the slab past a tree branch and 3 bolts to a DBB. Fox and 5 agile men, 2001.</climb><climbclimb><text
        extraclass="text" gradenew="19false" length
        value="15m" name="Ice Cream"
        stars=" ** ">Cause it tastes so good. By which ever way appeals to you climb on to the grassy ledge beneath the black and orange face with 2 bolts. Climb this to crack and then up to the DBB.</climb><text
        class="text">There are obviously a few climbs possible in the amphitheatre right of Ice Cream. This next climb is on the pillar on the right and above the amphitheatre. Access either by climbing up to it or scrambling up from the upstream end of the bridge.</text><climbContinue downstream for another 10  steps.">Continue downstream for another 10  steps.</text><climb
        extra="Þ" grade="19" length="7m" name="Fighting the Authorities"
        new="false" number="" stars=""
        value="Up past 2 FH on the left of the arete. Same DBB as TMMT. Selby, 1999.">Up past 2 FH on the left of the arete. Same DBB as TMMT. Selby, 1999.</climb><climb
        extra="Þ" grade="25" length="9m" name="The Magical Mousey Tour"
        extranew="false" gradenumber="18" lengthstars="8m"
        namevalue="NotAround Bythe Might">Climbarête thefrom faceFTA andor thin20 cracksteps protectedupstream byfrom smallPOTR. wires2FH. RequiresStarts ain degreethe ofcorner, commitmentunder sothe mayroof. beUp beyondto mostclip blokes.the Worthfirst doingbolt, sothen youout canleft getonto tothe theface nextand twoup. climbsDBB. which are must do’s if you have an interest in the obscure. Narkowicz, McMahon, 2000.</climb><climb
        extra="" grade="22" length="5m"
        name="Treasures in Heaven">20m up hill from Not By Might is a pinnacle with one bolt. Take a wire as well. Narkowicz 2001Learmont, 1999.">Around the arête from FTA or 20 steps upstream from POTR. 2FH. Starts in the corner, under the roof. Up to clip the first bolt, then out left onto the face and up. DBB. Learmont, 1999.</climb><climb
        extra="" grade="2223" length="5m10m"
        name="Disproportionate Destruction">20 m further up hill and upstream from Treasures in Heaven is another little boulder with 2 bolts. Use your ingenuity for the belay. Narkowicz 2001.
The 50 m of track from marker 4 contains some excellent climbing combined with easy access. A Prophet’s Reward is visible from the track just before you get to marker 4. The crack and off-width on the left may look appealing but don’t be mislead. Climb the bolts to the right instead. Best access is by scrambling up the track just past the markerPath of the Righteous">More like “path of the idiotic”. When concerns were raised about the poor bolting quality (protruding carrots and lack of lower offs) on this climb the first ascentionist saw fit to hack them off but not replace them with something better. If you really want to solo it (or better yet, if an altruistic individual retro-bolts it) the route starts 15 steps from FTA on an face left of a small roof around the arete from Heckle. Narkowicz, 1999.</climb><climb
        extra="" grade="2315" length="9m" name="A Prophets Reward"10m"
        starsname=" * Heckle">The only reward you’ll get here is a good pump. Excellent climbing just beware of knocking anything down on to the tourist track and the unsuspecting public. Climb up past 4 FH to a DBB. Narkowicz 2001.</climb><textoff-width that hits you in the face as you walk from the toll gate. 155 steps from the start of the bottom end of the track. For those interested in history McMahon thinks this may have been the first climb done in the Gorge. DBB. McMahon and McHugh, 1972.</climb><climb
        classextra="" grade="heading318" newlength="false10m"
        numbername="null.">Allodynia Buttress</text><text class="text"
"Elphin">The corner 3m right of Heckle. McMahon and a crow-eater, 1973.</climb><text
        class="heading2" new="false"
        number="null.">On>Above the upstream end of the wooden bridge just after marker 4 is a large buttress. Access by climbing down off the bridge or walking across the gully from the downstream end of the bridge.</text><climbSuspension Bridge</text><text
        class="text">Access: See map. Council has also very nicely placed distance markers on the track starting at the Suspension bridge. These make handy guides to the climbs.</text><image
        extranew="false" gradenoPrint="24false" lengthnumber="10m" name="Supratentorial"null."
        stars=" ** ">Up arete past 2 U-bolts to horizontal break (1/2 friend) then up thin crack past another U-bolt to DBB. Worth doing at 21 by pulling on the first bolt. Fox, Kearnes, 2002.</climb><climbsrc="Launceston_Susp_Mud_Map.PNG" width="600">null</image><text
        class="heading3" new="false"
        number="null.">Ice Scream Buttress</text><text class="text"
        new="false"
        extranumber="null." grade="22" length="12m" name="Allodynia"
        stars=" ** ">Climb up the face past the two eye-bolts to the horizontal break and the up the thin crack passing 2 more eye bolts. Keep going over the bulge past a U bolt to a DBB. Fox, Kearnes, 1996.</climb><climb>Access: From the first bridge on the Duck Reach track stand and look at the cliff. Straight in front of you is an orange and black face with two FH. This is Ice Cream. Above this and slightly downstream is a large block with 3 FH this is Shiloh. The face on your immediate left is Zerubbabel and Spooksville.</text><climb
        extra="3B" grade="1723" length="8m" name="Shiloh" new="12mfalse"
        namenumber="Aldente">Step offstars=""
 the bridge onto the large hand crack and corner 2m right of Allodynia, or if you really must, go all the way to bottom to start.</climb><textvalue="Climb on the left of the arête past three FH. DBB. Narkowicz, 2001.">Climb on the left of the arête past three FH. DBB. Narkowicz, 2001.</climb><climb
        classextra="heading3" newgrade="false19"
        number length="null.">Big Blouse Buttress</text><text10m"
        classname="textZerubbabel">Access:>Climb fromthe theblank topface ofto the stairshorizontal afterbreak, Allodyniawhich stepis overonly the16 fenceif and walk over toyou have the she-oaks hanging over the cliff. There is a DBB which raps straight over Big Norm’s Blouse.</text><climbreach, then continue up. Narkowicz, McMahon, 2000.</climb><climb
        extra="" grade="23/2419" length="10m"
        name="Victim of Circus Pants"
        stars=" *** ">Superb, pumpy climbingSpooksville">The next route right up the facestepped fromscoop. theOriginally ledgedone onwith thea left of Big Norm’s Blousepiton runner. Climb the crack on the right of the face then clip the first U-bolt and continue left past another 3 U-bolts to a DBB. DeCesare, Fox, 2002Narkowicz, Bennet, McMahon, 2001.</climb><climb
        extra="2B" grade="2019" length="15m" name="BigIce Norm’s BlouseCream"
  new="false"
        number="" stars="**"
  * ">Although it’s tempting to only rap to the ledge, and climb the face past 3 FH, you actually get better value if you go all the way to the ground and wack some gear into the crack at the bottom. Selby, 1999.</climb><climb
        extra="" grade="15" length="15m" name="Lady Midnight’s Daughter"
        stars=" * ">The corner 2m to the right of Norm’s Blouse which goes up to a flake/off-width. Actually climbs very nicely.</climb><climbvalue="Cause it tastes so good. By which ever way appeals to you climb on to the grassy ledge beneath the black and orange face with 2 bolts. Climb this to crack and then up to the DBB.">Cause it tastes so good. By which ever way appeals to you climb on to the grassy ledge beneath the black and orange face with 2 bolts. Climb this to crack and then up to the DBB.</climb><text
        extraclass="text">There grade="18" length="8m"
        name="Little Gerry’s Knickers">Climb the twin cracks 4m right of Lady Midnight’s Daughter to the ledge then step right at the FH and over the top.</climb><climbare obviously a few climbs possible in the amphitheatre right of Ice Cream. This next climb is on the pillar on the right and above the amphitheatre. Access either by climbing up to it or scrambling up from the upstream end of the bridge.</text><climb
        extra="" grade="2518" length="7m" name="Ground Zero"8m"
        starsname="Not *By Might">Not>Climb exactly clip or die with 4 FHthe face and athin DBBcrack butprotected goodby andsmall powerfulwires. ContinueRequires straighta updegree theof aretecommitment aboveso Littlemay Gerry’sbe Knickers.beyond Narkowicz,most 2001blokes.</climb><text
 Worth doing so you can get  class="text">Across the river (cross on weir) and down stream about 50m are two more climbs.</text><climbto the next two climbs which are must do’s if you have an interest in the obscure. Narkowicz, McMahon, 2000.</climb><climb
        extra="" grade="2322" length="17m" name="Root and Kill5m"
        starsname="Treasures **in Heaven">Look>20m forup ahill flaringfrom crackNot thatBy blanksMight outis aftera aboutpinnacle fivewith meters,one spotbolt. theTake bolta abovewire thisas andwell. yourNarkowicz there2001.</climb><climb
 The crack to the bolt, then right to gear, back left to another bolt then up past bulge to DBB. Bissett, Tierney, 1997.</climb><climbextra="Þ" grade="22" length="5m"
        extraname=""Disproportionate grade=Destruction"18" lengthnew="17mfalse" namenumber="Max the Killer Kelpie"
        stars=""
 * ">Just right of R&amp;K is a broken looking face. Climb this to a slot, then over the bulge to same DBB. Tierney, Bissett, 1997.</climb><text
        class="text">The next two climbs are above Allodynia Buttress and best accessed by scrambling up the slope 10m past the top of the stairs after Allodynia.</text><climbvalue="20 m further up hill and upstream from Treasures in Heaven is another little boulder with 2 bolts. Use your ingenuity for the belay. Narkowicz 2001.">20 m further up hill and upstream from Treasures in Heaven is another little boulder with 2 bolts. Use your ingenuity for the belay. Narkowicz 2001.</climb><text
        extraclass="text" gradenew="21" length="6m" name="Fat Alex"false"
        starsvalue="The **50 ">Anotherm exerciseof intrack curiousityfrom value.marker Visible4 fromcontains thesome trackexcellent asclimbing pinnaclecombined onwith theeasy skylineaccess. 40mA aboveProphet’s AllodyniaReward Buttress.is 2visible FH,from the track firstjust canbefore beyou trickyget to marker reach4. The Singlecrack boltand belayoff-width on top.the Narkowicz, 2001.</climb><climb
        extra="" grade="24" length="8m"
        name="Glory and Power">From the top of the stairs an orange buttress with a FH on the face is visible 40 m uphill and slightly upstream. Climb the crack up to the first FH then up to the horizontal break (1.5 cam) then move left to the 2nd FH. DBB. Narkowicz, 2001.</climb><climbleft may look appealing but don’t be mislead. Climb the bolts to the right instead. Best access is by scrambling up the track just past the marker.">The 50 m of track from marker 4 contains some excellent climbing combined with easy access. A Prophet’s Reward is visible from the track just before you get to marker 4. The crack and off-width on the left may look appealing but don’t be mislead. Climb the bolts to the right instead. Best access is by scrambling up the track just past the marker.</text><climb
        extra="4B" grade="2123" length="8m9m" name="GloryA With-outProphets PowerReward"
        new="false" number="" stars=" * ">From
 the second horizontal break of Gloey and Power move right and continue up past a FH. Less contrived than GAP especially if you don’t have the reach for the 2nd bolt. Fox, DeCesare, Bissett, 2002.</climb><climb
        extra="" grade="23" length="10m"
        name="Finger Frolic">Line of four left trending eye-bolts visible 10m up the hill when standing at marker 5. Johnson, Sam, 1996.</climb><climbvalue="The only reward you’ll get here is a good pump. Excellent climbing just beware of knocking anything down on to the tourist track and the unsuspecting public. Climb up past 4 FH to a DBB. Narkowicz 2001.">The only reward you’ll get here is a good pump. Excellent climbing just beware of knocking anything down on to the tourist track and the unsuspecting public. Climb up past 4 FH to a DBB. Narkowicz 2001.</climb><text
        extraclass="heading3" gradenew="19" length="12m" name="White Water Aretefalse"
        number="null.">Allodynia Buttress</text><text class="text"
        starsnew=" ** ">Excellent climbing and a great discovery by young Alex. At marker 5 turn and look downstream at the river. You will see 3 FH on the edge of a pinnacle 20m away. Scramble down to the base then climb up past 3 FH and a 3 cam. DBB. Wilsonfalse"
        number="null.">On the upstream end of the wooden bridge just after marker 4 is a large buttress. Access by climbing down off the bridge or walking across the gully from the downstream end of the bridge.</text><climb
        extra="3B" grade="24" length="10m" name="Supratentorial"
        new="false" number="" stars="**"
        value="Up arete past 2 U-bolts to horizontal break (1/2 friend) then up thin crack past another U-bolt to DBB. Worth doing at 21 by pulling on the first bolt. Fox, Kearnes, 2002.">Up arete past 2 U-bolts to horizontal break (1/2 friend) then up thin crack past another U-bolt to DBB. Worth doing at 21 by pulling on the first bolt. Fox, Kearnes, 2002.</climb><climb
        extra="5B" grade="22" length="12m" name="Allodynia" new="false"
        number="" stars="**"
        value="Climb up the face past the two eye-bolts to the horizontal break and the up the thin crack passing 2 more eye bolts. Keep going over the bulge past a U bolt to a DBB. Fox, Kearnes, 1996.">Climb up the face past the two eye-bolts to the horizontal break and the up the thin crack passing 2 more eye bolts. Keep going over the bulge past a U bolt to a DBB. Fox, Kearnes, 1996.</climb><climb
        extra="" grade="17" length="12m"
        name="Aldente">Step off the bridge onto the large hand crack and corner 2m right of Allodynia, or if you really must, go all the way to bottom to start.</climb><text
        class="heading3" new="false"
        number="null.">Big Blouse Buttress</text><text
        class="text">Access: from the top of the stairs after Allodynia step over the fence and walk over to the she-oaks hanging over the cliff. There is a DBB which raps straight over Big Norm’s Blouse.</text><climb
        extra="4B" grade="23/24" length="10m"
        name="Victim of Circus Pants" new="false" number="" stars="***"
        value="Superb, pumpy climbing up the face from the ledge on the left of Big Norm’s Blouse. Climb the crack on the right of the face then clip the first U-bolt and continue left past another 3 U-bolts to a DBB. DeCesare, Fox, 2002.">Superb, pumpy climbing up the face from the ledge on the left of Big Norm’s Blouse. Climb the crack on the right of the face then clip the first U-bolt and continue left past another 3 U-bolts to a DBB. DeCesare, Fox, 2002.</climb><climb
        extra="3B" grade="20" length="15m" name="Big Norm’s Blouse"
        new="false" number="" stars="*"
        value="Although it’s tempting to only rap to the ledge, and climb the face past 3 FH, you actually get better value if you go all the way to the ground and wack some gear into the crack at the bottom. Selby, 1999.">Although it’s tempting to only rap to the ledge, and climb the face past 3 FH, you actually get better value if you go all the way to the ground and wack some gear into the crack at the bottom. Selby, 1999.</climb><climb
        extra="" grade="15" length="15m" name="Lady Midnight’s Daughter"
        stars=" * ">The corner 2m to the right of Norm’s Blouse which goes up to a flake/off-width. Actually climbs very nicely.</climb><climb
        extra="" grade="18" length="8m"
        name="Little Gerry’s Knickers">Climb the twin cracks 4m right of Lady Midnight’s Daughter to the ledge then step right at the FH and over the top.</climb><climb
        extra="4B" grade="25" length="7m" name="Ground Zero" new="false"
        number="" stars="*"
        value="Not exactly clip or die with 4 FH and a DBB but good and powerful. Continue straight up the arete above Little Gerry’s Knickers. Narkowicz, 2001.">Not exactly clip or die with 4 FH and a DBB but good and powerful. Continue straight up the arete above Little Gerry’s Knickers. Narkowicz, 2001.</climb><text
        class="text">Across the river (cross on weir) and down stream about 50m are two more climbs.</text><climb
        extra="" grade="23" length="17m" name="Root and Kill"
        stars=" ** ">Look for a flaring crack that blanks out after about five meters, spot the bolt above this and your there. The crack to the bolt, then right to gear, back left to another bolt then up past bulge to DBB. Bissett, Tierney, 1997.</climb><climb
        extra="" grade="18" length="17m" name="Max the Killer Kelpie"
        stars=" * ">Just right of R&amp;K is a broken looking face. Climb this to a slot, then over the bulge to same DBB. Tierney, Bissett, 1997.</climb><text
        class="text">The next two climbs are above Allodynia Buttress and best accessed by scrambling up the slope 10m past the top of the stairs after Allodynia.</text><climb
        extra="2B" grade="21" length="6m" name="Fat Alex" new="false"
        number="" stars="**"
        value="Another exercise in curiousity value. Visible from the track as pinnacle on the skyline 40m above Allodynia Buttress. 2 FH, the first can be tricky to reach. Single bolt belay on top. Narkowicz, 2001.">Another exercise in curiousity value. Visible from the track as pinnacle on the skyline 40m above Allodynia Buttress. 2 FH, the first can be tricky to reach. Single bolt belay on top. Narkowicz, 2001.</climb><climb
        extra="" grade="24" length="8m"
        name="Glory and Power">From the top of the stairs an orange buttress with a FH on the face is visible 40 m uphill and slightly upstream. Climb the crack up to the first FH then up to the horizontal break (1.5 cam) then move left to the 2nd FH. DBB. Narkowicz, 2001.</climb><climb
        extra="" grade="21" length="8m" name="Glory With-out Power"
        stars=" * ">From the second horizontal break of Gloey and Power move right and continue up past a FH. Less contrived than GAP especially if you don’t have the reach for the 2nd bolt. Fox, DeCesare, Bissett, 2002.</climb><climb
        extra="4B" grade="23" length="10m" name="Finger Frolic"
        new="false" number="" stars=""
        value="Line of four left trending eye-bolts visible 10m up the hill when standing at marker 5. Johnson, Sam, 1996.">Line of four left trending eye-bolts visible 10m up the hill when standing at marker 5. Johnson, Sam, 1996.</climb><climb
        extra="3B" grade="19" length="12m" name="White Water Arete"
        new="false" number="" stars="**"
        value="Excellent climbing and a great discovery by young Alex. At marker 5 turn and look downstream at the river. You will see 3 FH on the edge of a pinnacle 20m away. Scramble down to the base then climb up past 3 FH and a 3 cam. DBB. Wilson, 2001.">Excellent climbing and a great discovery by young Alex. At marker 5 turn and look downstream at the river. You will see 3 FH on the edge of a pinnacle 20m away. Scramble down to the base then climb up past 3 FH and a 3 cam. DBB. Wilson, 2001.</climb><climb
        extra="3B" grade="24" length="8m" name="Max Steel" new="false"
        number="" stars=""
        value="30m past marker 5 if look up between the boulders you will see an orange face with 3 FH on it. Best access is to scramble up 10m back. DBB. Narkowicz, 2001.">30m past marker 5 if look up between the boulders you will see an orange face with 3 FH on it. Best access is to scramble up 10m back. DBB. Narkowicz, 2001.</climb><climb
        extra="3B" grade="23" length="7m" name="Howard’s Shield"
        new="false" number="" stars=""
        value="Sound’s like some kind of IUD. 150m past marker 6 there is a lump of rock very close to the track. On the right side is 3 FH. The first FH can be clipped by climbing the ledge on the left. Heck so can the second. Worth doing if you’re there. DBB. Narkowicz, 2001.">Sound’s like some kind of IUD. 150m past marker 6 there is a lump of rock very close to the track. On the right side is 3 FH. The first FH can be clipped by climbing the ledge on the left. Heck so can the second. Worth doing if you’re there. DBB. Narkowicz, 2001.</climb><climb
        extra="" grade="24" length="8m9m"
        name="MaxDay of SteelInfamy">30m past>At marker 59 if lookhead up betweenhill thefor boulders you will see an orange40m. The face with 31 FH is onjust it.visible Bestfrom accessthe istrack. toClimb scramblepast upFH 10mto back.thin DBBcrack. Narkowicz, 2001.</climb><climbclimb><text
        extraclass="heading3" gradenew="23" length="7mfalse"
        namenumber="Howard’s Shield">Sound’s like some kind of IUD. 150m past marker 6 there is a lump of rock very close tonull.">The Gallows</text><text
        class="text">Access: 50m past marker 10, just before the track. Onsteepens theto rightgo sideup isthe 3switch FH.back, Thejump firstover FHthe canfence beand clippedgo bydown climbingto the ledgeriver. onFrom thehere left.walk Heckupstream so can the secondfor 100m. WorthHangman’s doingNoose ifis you’rethe there.very DBB. Narkowicz, 2001obvious prow.</climb><climbtext><climb
        extra="" grade="2418" length="9m "
        name="DayDriller of Infamy">At marker 9 head up hill for 40m. The face with 1 FH is just visible from the track. Climb past FH to thin crack. Narkowicz, 2001.</climb><text
Killer" new="false"
        number=""
        stars="">Face on left of cliff. Gerry Narkowicz, Mick Ling, 3/12/1983.</climb><climb
         class="heading3" new="false"
extra="4B" grade="26" length="12m" name="Dead on Arrival"
        new="false" number="null.">The Gallows</text><text
        classstars="text">Access: 50m past marker 10, just before the track steepens to go up the switch back, jump over the fence and go down to the river. From here walk upstream for 100m. Hangman’s Noose is the very obvious prow.</text><climb***">Up over the roof past 4 FH being careful not to impale yourself on the 3rd one. DBB way over the back. Matthew Mann, 2002.</climb><climb
        extra="4B" grade="1823" length="12m" " name="Driller Killer" new="false name="Sixty Metre Zoom Lense"
        new="false" number=""
        numberstars=""
        stars="">Face on left of cliff. Gerry Narkowicz, Mick Ling, 3/12/1983>Either traverse in from the left or the right or go straight up it the river is down. The face with 4 FH 3m right of Hangman’s Noose, meeting it at the same DBB. Narkowicz, 2002.</climb><climb
        extra="4B" grade="2617" length="12m14m"
        name="DeadOne onFalse Arrival"
Move and the Lights Go   Out" new="false""false"
        number=""
        stars="***">Up over the roofblocky pastchimney 4and FHthen beingup carefulthe notleft to impale yourself on the 3rd onehand crack. DBBMick wayLing overet theal back. Matthew Mann, 2002.1983.</climb><climb
        extra="4B" grade="2322" length="12m14m" name="SixtyThe Metre Zoom LenseGallows" new="false"
        new="false" number=""
        stars="">Either traverse in from the left or the right or go straight up it the river is down. The face with 4 FH 3m right of Hangman’s Noose, meeting it at the same DBB. Narkowicz, 2002**">Same start as Reprieve but take the right hand finger crack. Narkowicz 1984.</climb><climb
        extra="" grade="17" length="14m12m"
 name="Waiting to be Blown    name="One False Move and the Lights Go Out"Away"
        new="false"
        number=""
        stars="">Up>The thehand blockycrack chimney3m andright thenof up the left hand crack. Mick Ling et alThe Gallows. Narkowicz 1983.</climb><climbclimb><text
        extraclass="heading3" gradenew="22" length="14m" name="The Gallows" new="false"false"
        number="null.">Second Basin Terrace</text><text
        numberclass="text"
>10m downstream from marker 14. Jump over the fence  stars="**">Same start as Reprieve but take the right hand finger crack. Narkowicz 1984.</climb><climband you should see some DBB on the edge of the tier 2m below. Rap off these to the ledge 10m below.</text><climb
        extra="" grade="1716" length="12m" name="Waiting to be Blown Away8m"
        newname="falseUtterly Meaningless">From number=""
the main ledge go left on to the stars="">The hand crack 3m right of The Gallowsgrassy ledge and then climb the thin corner. Narkowicz, 19832001.</climb><textclimb><climb
        extra="3B" grade="22" classlength="heading38m" newname="falseEcclesiastes"
        new="false" number="null.">Second Basin Terrace</text><text stars="**"
        classvalue="text">10m downstream from marker 14. Jump over the fence and you should see some DBB on the edge of the tier 2m below. Rap off these to the ledge 10m below.</text><climb
        extra="" grade="16" length="8mClimb the sharp arete with 3 FH to the DBB. Narkowicz, 2001.">Climb the sharp arete with 3 FH to the DBB. Narkowicz, 2001.</climb><climb
        extra="Þ" grade="24" length="10m"
        name="Fear God and His Commandments" new="false" number=""
        stars="**"
        namevalue="Utterly Meaningless">FromExcellent climbing up the mainbolted ledgecorner gothen lefttraverse onright to finish up the grassy ledge and then climb the thin corner overlap and crack passing more iron mongery and a fixed wire. Narkowicz, 2001.</climb><climb
        extra="" grade="22" length="8m" name="Ecclesiastes"
        stars=" ** ">Climb the sharp arete with 3 FH to the DBB">Excellent climbing up the bolted corner then traverse right to finish up the overlap and crack passing more iron mongery and a fixed wire. Narkowicz, 2001.</climb><climb
        extra="4B" grade="24" length="10m"
        name="FearRemember God and His CommandmentsYour Creator"
        new="false" number="" stars=" *** ">Excellent
 climbing up the bolted corner then traverse right to finishvalue="Improbable climbing up the overlapblunt andarete crackpast passing more iron mongery and a fixed wire. Narkowicz, 2001.</climb><climb
        extra="" grade="24" length="10m" name="Remember Your Creator"
        stars=" *** 4 FH. Worth pre-clipping the first one. Hard to avoid moving right in places but worthwhile if you can. Narkowicz, 2001.">Improbable climbing up the blunt arete past 4 FH. Worth pre-clipping the first one. Hard to avoid moving right in places but worthwhile if you can. Narkowicz, 2001.</climb><climb
        extra="" grade="20" length="9m"
        name="Bonfire of the Vanities">The thin seam up to the crack 2m right of RYC. Fisher, 2001.</climb><text
        class="heading3" new="false"
        number="null.">The Black Face</text><text
        class="text">Lots of ways to get to this face which has got some of the longest and most enjoyable climbs in the South Esk. The quickest way is to park at Duck Reach and walk back down the river on the track till you get to marker 15. 60 steps down river from there you should see a tree with a chain around it (provided some well meaning idiot hasn’t removed it). Alternatively you can walk up from the First Basin and 60 steps past marker 14 see the same tree. Or if you want to be different you can walk in from the Denison Grove car park. This has the advantage of taking you past the Retirement Village cliff. Abseil from the tree to the base of the cliff which is 35m. There are 2 rap stations on the ledge 10m down if you don’t have an extra rope.</text><climb
        extra="" grade="19" length="25m" name="Cop That To The Max"
        stars=" ** ">If you rapped in from the downstream rap station you would have passed directly over this climb. Scramble up slab to broken crack then move left to slab. Up past FH to off-finger crack in the corner and up to DBB. Scramble up right on grassy ledges then climb the crack which leads back to the rap tree. Hyland, Tristram, 2001.</climb><climb
        extra="" grade="21" length="25m"
        name="Rampaging Roy">The same start and the same finish as CTTTM. Up slab to broken crack but then blast straight up thin twin cracks to join CTTTM at the off-finger crack. DeCesare, Fox, 2002.</climb><climb
        extra="Þ" grade="20" length="25m"
        name="H.G. Nelson Memorial Route" new="false" number=""
        stars="***"
        value="Once again start up the slab as for Cop that to the  name="H.G. Nelson Memorial Route"
        stars=" *** Max but continue right to the thin corner with 5 FH. Fox, DeCesare, Tiz, 2002.">Once again start up the slab as for Cop that to the Max but continue right to the thin corner with 5 FH. Fox, DeCesare, Tiz, 2002.</climb><climb
        extra="Þ" grade="23" length="23m" name="Club Buggery"
        new="false" number="" stars="**"
        value="Start 3m to the right of Cop that to the Max. Up downstream facing corner past 2 FH then continue up broken crack system past 5 more FH to DBB.  stars=" ** Fox, DeCesare, Tiz, 2002.">Start 3m to the right of Cop that to the Max. Up downstream facing corner past 2 FH then continue up broken crack system past 5 more FH to DBB. Fox, DeCesare, Tiz, 2002.</climb><text
        class="heading3" new="false"
        number="null.">Retirement Village</text><text
        class="text">From the carpark at the top of Denison Grove walk down the path to the Duck Reach track. After about 200m you should see a big cairn on your right. Head across to this and then continue down to the pipeline. Walk along this for 20m and you will be at the top of the Retirement Village.</text><climb
        extra="" grade="18" length="10m" name="Dementia"
        stars=" * ">The obvious off-width with a hidden finger crack on the inside. Luckily no fist jamming is required. Up this to the ledge and then continue up thin crack and face to DBB.</climb><climb
        extra="Þ" grade="18" length="10m" name="Senescence" new="false"
        number="" stars=" ** **"
        value="The face 2m right of Dementia. Up past 3 FH and some cams to a DBB. Fox, DeCesare and Nichols, 2002.">The face 2m right of Dementia. Up past 3 FH and some cams to a DBB. Fox, DeCesare and Nichols, 2002.</climb><climb
        extra="" grade="18" length="7m"
        name="Ungraceful Retirement">The hand crack to the ledge and DBB</climb><climb
        extra="Þ" grade="27" length="11m" name="Project" new="false"
        number="" stars="" value="Up steep face then on to slab above. 3 U-bolts to a DBB.">Up steep face then on to slab above. 3 U-bolts to a DBB.</climb></guide>