Blog from January, 2012

See link to Bare Rock overview topo, updated Boneyard guide and topo for God Monster. http://climbnortherntasmania.wordpress.com/2012/01/13/updated-fingal-guide-and-topos/

Lost Gear

3 large RPs (8-10), on spectra with a krab. Old but much missed. Maybe somewhere on the Pipes, or at Lower Mt Blackwood. Would love to get them back if anyone stumbles across them.

Thanks

Tony

ENOURMOUS REWARD offered (if I can think of one....)

Garry's paradiso topo

Garry sent me this topo of the paradiso which he thought might be useful:

The routes are

5 captain napalm 25
6 25
7 24
8 kranken 24
9 offender of the faith 24/25
10 southern exposure 25
11 sultan of sweat 25
12 no name 26
13 snooze and you loose 26
14 expendable youth 27
15 Retrograde abnesia 26
16 Hit and Run 25
17 capatain jack 29/30
18 Number 1 26
19 Total Recall 27

See link to description of Ingvar Lidman's new multi-pitch route at Bare Rock, Fingal. God Monster, 125m, 25 http://climbnortherntasmania.wordpress.com/2012/01/10/monster-new-multi-pitch-sport-route-at-bare-rock

Climbing partner wanted

Hey all,

          I'm a 32 yr old outdoor ed teacher over from Perth in the Launceston area looking to do as much climbing as possible from the 9th to the 29th of Jan. I have a rope, draws and personal gear, and am happy leading up to 18/19s. Never been to Tassie before and want to meet some local climbers and see some beautiful crags. Call Tim on 0432 910 631

new to tas

hey guys 30 yo male...enjoyed climbing the few times i have and always wanted to put the energy into it..now i have just sperated from my partner...have 3 kids i have a bit more free time and not many social outlets...i am available most times as i work infrequently..lucky i guess...electricain who does mining on the mainland..give us a buzz if you need an extra have no gear yet but with advice i can get it quick..cheers..also keen for a beer...

0469375130..living up just below mt dromedary NP

New Routes and News 2012

Besides Gerry's new route on Stacks Bluff (see here ), to kick off the new year here are a couple of new routes on Great Tier. Both require a third pitch but are worthwhile climbing now.

★★ Schizophrenic 45m 21 Þ ↓
Takes a line up the middle of the column left of Blue Meridian. Start a couple of metres right of Doldrums at a short corner with a small overhang.
1. 25m 20 Tricky start through the overhang leads to pleasant and non-sustained face climbing. 8 Bolts to DBB.
2. 20m 21 Strenuous moves up the pillar to the right, then back left to finish on the next ledge. 7 Bolts to DBB.
The third pitch to the top of the column is yet to be completed.
Jon Nermut, Dave Humphries (alt), Jan 2012.

Twist in My Sobriety 40m 17
Takes a steep eliminate line up the buttress between Doldrums and Slow Combustion. Start below the blocky wall to the L of Doldrums, as for the Slow Combustion Direct Start.
1. 32m 17 Climb straight up to the middle of the large roof which is climbed direct (crux). Continue up the steep face above to a large ledge.
2. 8m 16 Neat climbing up the short wall to a second ledge. From here either finish up Slow Combustion, or up the obvious unclimbed third pitch, or traverse rightwards to the rap anchors on Schizophrenic.
T.McKenny, A. Beech, Dec 2011

Here's a rough and ready topo - Twist on the left, Schizophrenic on the right: