Any change to grade etc? Has it left any safety issue (loose rock etc)? Wondered for years what kept it in place..... If you want to edit the guide and send it to me, I will include it.
Good job, Jed! There route appears to absolutely solid now. On Monday I cleared a few small stones and swept some dirt away that had collected on the ledge but it looks like there is nothing loose there now.
Just wondering how hard it was to pry loose the "finger"? I know that Nic tried all sorts of tactics to get rid of it before climbing the route but it beat his best efforts. It looks like it must have loosened up significantly over time.
Also, the other thing I'm wondering about is the actual length of the route. I was intending to pay close attention next time I did it to see how much rope it actually takes to get from the start of the route proper to the rappel anchors at the top. I have the distinct impression that it is a fair distance short of the 45 metres listed. (Many of the route lengths on the Pipes are exaggerated. For example, the first pitch of Chancellor Direct is only 32 metres, not the 38 reported). If Carpe Diem is actually 35 metres or less, it might be worth putting a couple of U's at the start of the route proper, with the view that that would provide the possibility of rapping to there on a single rope and then another rap off. Given that Terra Nullis, Heat Pump and Warm Glow are all nearby you could take a single rope up to that part of the crag and have a fairly good play on a trad route and three sport routes. Then of course if you were a gun you could finish off with Mildly Amused ... ;-)
I can't take credit, i was just there egging Simon on :)
It took more effort than i thought it would, hinged it in and out from the cliff for 5 minutes until it came off. Was an anti climax, bounced once and landed in a bush.
Yeah i agree that the route lenght is wrong. Didn't pay enough attention though so don't know exactly what it is.
Another rap could make life more convenient but not really necessary, we just got the second to take a half rope up to make the 50m rap.
A lot of the routes on the pipes lengths are wrong (Was everything longer in the old days?) Best thing to do is just make a note of it when you can remember, put a post here and the Pipes gods will update it :)
Did that. And was reminded that Chasm Wall - which we now know as Centaur - was "Mild Severe". Is there a more quaint grade in the history of climbing? Unless of course it's "Mild Very Severe", as in the case of Icarus ...
I didn't want someone to die. more travellers are coming, many don't have the slightest clue about the concept of loose rock.
if i was going to add a rap station my vote would be for in the chasm, so a single gets u off all those routes. but i think a 70m and some down climbing would do it...
8 Comments
Danger Darren
Ask young gun, word on the street is he might know something
Jed Parkes
Oh yeah I forgot to mention, the lose spike that was 3/4 of the way up Carpe Diem has been removed.
Tony McKenny
Any change to grade etc? Has it left any safety issue (loose rock etc)? Wondered for years what kept it in place..... If you want to edit the guide and send it to me, I will include it.
Doug Bruce AUTHOR
Good job, Jed! There route appears to absolutely solid now. On Monday I cleared a few small stones and swept some dirt away that had collected on the ledge but it looks like there is nothing loose there now.
Just wondering how hard it was to pry loose the "finger"? I know that Nic tried all sorts of tactics to get rid of it before climbing the route but it beat his best efforts. It looks like it must have loosened up significantly over time.
Also, the other thing I'm wondering about is the actual length of the route. I was intending to pay close attention next time I did it to see how much rope it actually takes to get from the start of the route proper to the rappel anchors at the top. I have the distinct impression that it is a fair distance short of the 45 metres listed. (Many of the route lengths on the Pipes are exaggerated. For example, the first pitch of Chancellor Direct is only 32 metres, not the 38 reported). If Carpe Diem is actually 35 metres or less, it might be worth putting a couple of U's at the start of the route proper, with the view that that would provide the possibility of rapping to there on a single rope and then another rap off. Given that Terra Nullis, Heat Pump and Warm Glow are all nearby you could take a single rope up to that part of the crag and have a fairly good play on a trad route and three sport routes. Then of course if you were a gun you could finish off with Mildly Amused ... ;-)
Jed Parkes
I can't take credit, i was just there egging Simon on :)
It took more effort than i thought it would, hinged it in and out from the cliff for 5 minutes until it came off. Was an anti climax, bounced once and landed in a bush.
Yeah i agree that the route lenght is wrong. Didn't pay enough attention though so don't know exactly what it is.
Another rap could make life more convenient but not really necessary, we just got the second to take a half rope up to make the 50m rap.
A lot of the routes on the pipes lengths are wrong (Was everything longer in the old days?) Best thing to do is just make a note of it when you can remember, put a post here and the Pipes gods will update it :)
Jon Nermut
>> Was everything longer in the old days?
Yep and everything was V. Diff. too - check it out: http://www.jandmgrist.com/pdf/climbers69.pdf
Doug Bruce AUTHOR
Re: everything was V. Diff. too - check it out: http://www.jandmgrist.com/pdf/climbers69.pdf
Did that. And was reminded that Chasm Wall - which we now know as Centaur - was "Mild Severe". Is there a more quaint grade in the history of climbing? Unless of course it's "Mild Very Severe", as in the case of Icarus ...
Simon Young
yep. it was me.
I didn't want someone to die. more travellers are coming, many don't have the slightest clue about the concept of loose rock.
if i was going to add a rap station my vote would be for in the chasm, so a single gets u off all those routes. but i think a 70m and some down climbing would do it...